THE   CELLAR  BOOK  SHOP 


18090     WYOMING 
DETROIT,    MICH.  48221 
U.S.A. 


/v 

X? 


A 


H.  Prances  Davidson  and  Adda  G.  Engle. 


SOUTH  AND  SOUTH 
CENTRAL  AFRICA 


A  RECORD  OF  FIFTEEN  YEARS' 

MISSIONARY  LABORS  AMONG 

PRIMITIVE  PEOPLES 


BY 

H.  FRANCES  DAVIDSON 


(WITH  PHOTOGRAPHS  BY  THE  MISSIONARIES) 


PRINTED  FOR  THE  AUTHOR    BY 

BRETHREN  PUBLISHING  HOUSE 

ELGIN,  ILL. 

1915 


Copyrighted  by 

H.   FRANCES    DAVIDSON 

1915 


Books  may  be  obtained  through 

H.  R.  DAVIDSON 

AUBURN,  IND. 

Route  3 


M.  L.  HOFFMAN 
ABILENE,  KANS. 


DEDICATED 

TO 

MY  FATHER'S  LIFELONG  FRIEND 
DR.  W.  O.  BAKER 

And  to  All  Others,  Who,  Like  Him,  Are  Deeply 

Interested  in  the  Evangelization  of  the 

Dark  Continent 


INTRODUCTION 

With  utmost  confidence  and  pleasure,  I  give  an 
introductory  expression  for  this  intelligible,  authen- 
tic, and  most  valuable  little  volume,  the  product  of 
great  sacrifice  and  long  experience,  by  one  who  was 
favored  and  honored  with  lucrative  educational  po- 
sitions, being  a  classic. 

I  have  been  acquainted  with  the  authoress  for 
many  years,  and  am  a  member  of  the  Foreign  Mis- 
sionary Board  under  whose  auspices  she  has  most 
effectually  labored  during  an  unbroken  period  of 
one  and  one-half  decades ;  therefore  I  speak  with 
great  assurance  of  the  merits  and  hope  of  her  book, 
destined  to  be  prolific  and  incentive  to  active  mis- 
sionary operations  in  foreign  lands. 

The  photo-engravings  have  special  interest,  hav- 
ing been  taken  from  real  life  and  nature  as  she 
found  them  in  dark  Africa — places,  people,  environ- 
ments, customs,  habits,  and  religion,  which  she  saw 
with  her  own  eyes  and  mind.  Having  thoroughly 
mastered  various  dialects  of  tribes  among  whom 
she  has  labored  so  many  years,  having  gathered 
many  historical  facts  relative  to  uncivilized  races, 
and  also  having  special  tact,  instinct  and  God-given 
ability  through  the  gift  of  the  Spirit,  making  her 
very  efficient  in  her  call  to  these  dusky  tribes,  she  is 
qualified  in  a  very  proficient  sense  to  compile  the 
story  of  this  strange  people. 

On  meeting  Sister  H.  Frances  Davidson,  one  is 
quickly  impressed  with  her  modest  and  unassum- 
ing disposition,  the  rare  gift  that  characterizes  all 
the  truly  noble  and  great. 

Her  heroism  and  unfaltering  faith  in  Jehovah  is 
5 


6  INTRODUCTION 

most  remarkably  demonstrated  in  her  adventure — 
accompanied  by  Sister  Adda  Engle  (Taylor)  and  a 
native  boy — into  the  wilds  of  Central  Africa,  unfre- 
quented by  the  tread  or  touch  of  any  Gospel  mis- 
sioner,  among  a  class  of  raw  natives  that  were  very 
shy,  rather  hostile,  and  of  another  tongue,  and  a 
country  infested  with  wild,  vicious  animals. 

\\hen  the  planning  of  this  adventurous  trip  was 
heard  by  the  Foreign  Missionary  Board,  steps  were 
taken  to  discourage  it,  on  the  ground  that  no  white 
man  was  available  to  accompany  them  to  the  new 
prospective  mission  field ;  but  before  the  Board's 
protest  could  be  made  effective,  the  dangerous  jour- 
ney was  heroically  and  successfully  executed  and  a 
new  mission  station  planted  north  of  the  great  Zam- 
bezi, which  is  the  northern  boundary  of  South 
Africa. 

Such  an  adventure  would  almost  challenge  the 
courage  of  the  bravest  man.  It  must  have  been  the 
leadings  of  the  Lord — the  inspiration  of  the  Holy 
Spirit. 

We  all  love  to  read  the  truthful  words  that  drop 
from  the  pen  of  such  fearless,  devoted,  and  conse- 
crated souls. 

The  book  is  written  in  a  clear,  graphic,  and  con- 
densed manner,  just  the  thing  for  this  busy,  rushing 
generation. 

We  bespeak  for  it  a  precious  harvest  of  lasting 
fruitage. 

Yours  in  the  hope  of  the  Gospel, 

J.  R.  ZOOK, 

Chairman  of  the  Missionary  Board 
of  the  Brethren  in  Christ's  Church. 


PREFACE 

Africa  holds  a  unique  place  in  the  world  today. 
In  no  other  continent  is  there  such  a  world-wide 
interest  and  such  a  variety  of  interests  centered ; 
the  religious,  the  political,  and  the  commercial 
world  are  alike  concerned  in  its  development  and 
progress.  It  has  been  a  sealed  book  for  so  many 
centuries  that  the  majority  of  people  have  excused 
themselves  on  that  score  for  their  ignorance  of  its 
conditions  and  their  indifference  as  to  its  welfare ; 
but  the  day  of  pardonable  ignorance  is  past. 

While  kings  and  emperors  have  been  eagerly 
seeking  to  obtain  as  large  a  slice  of  its  territory  as 
possible,  and  moneyed  men  have  been  unearthing 
some  of  its  vast  wealth,  missionaries,  too,  have  been 
having  a  share  in  it.  In  the  development  of  Africa 
they  may,  without  boasting,  claim  to  be  making  the 
most  permanent  contribution  to  its  welfare,  but 
even  their  work  is  only  begun.  The  various  inter- 
ests, which  for  a  long  time  were  concerned  with 
only  the  countries  along  the  coast,  have  now  pene- 
trated and  opened  up  that  vast  interior  to  civiliza- 
tion and  missionary  enterprise ;  and  it  remains  for 
the  Christians  to  say  whether  it  shall  be  left  to  the 
influences  of  a  corrupt  civilization  or  whether  they 
will  shoulder  their  responsibilities  and  rise  to  their 
privileges  in  taking  the  country  for  God. 

Many  missionary  bodies  are  already  at  work,  and 
much  is  being  accomplished;  but  the  continent  is 
so  gigantic,  the  distances  to  be  traversed  so  immense 
that  it  will  require  the  united  efforts  of  all  God's 
children  to  pay  the  debt  humanity  owes  to  this 
long-neglected  continent  and  those  downtrodden 
pagans. 

7 


8  PREFACE 

It  has  been  my  aim  in  these  pages  to  give,  with- 
out embellishment,  some  idea  of  the  nature  of  the 
Africans,  their  character,  customs,  religion,  and  sur- 
roundings, as  well  as  some  of  the  difficulties,  meth- 
ods, encouragements,  and  discouragements  of  mis- 
sionary work  among  them.  Missionaries  are  often 
censured  for  being  too  optimistic,  for  giving  only 
the  bright  side  of  their  work,  therefore  I  have  stu- 
diously sought  to  avoid  this  attitude  and  to  give 
an  unvarnished  account  of  missionary  enterprise. 
Judging  from  my  own  convictions  and  beliefs  in 
reference  to  the  work,  it  seems  to  me  that  if  I  have 
erred  in  this  respect,  it  has  been  by  understating 
rather  than  overstating  the  value  and  encouraging 
results  arising  from  such  labors. 

This  book  does  not  claim  to  be  a  complete  his- 
tory of  the  Brethren  in  Christ's  Missions  in  Africa, 
but  rather  some  of  the  experiences  of  one  member 
of  that  mission  body.  Since,  however,  it  has  been 
my  privilege  to  be  with  the  work  from  its  inception, 
the  enclosed  narrative  will  have  the  added  value  of 
giving  at  least  something  of  the  beginning  and  early 
history  of  the  mission.  My  only  apology  for  re- 
counting so  much  of  my  personal  experience  and 
impressions  in  the  work  is  that  I  am  unable  to 
give,  properly,  the  experience  and  viewpoint  of 
anyone  else. 

We  desire  to  express  our  thanks  to  Mrs.  Myron 
Taylor,  formerly  Miss  Adda  Engle,  for  the  majority 
of  the  photographs  with  which  this  work  is  illus- 
trated ;  also  to  Elder  Steigerwald  and  the  other  mis- 
sionaries who  have  furnished  a  number  of  them. 
We  had  hoped  to  have  some  later  ones  from  Matopo 


PREFACE  9 

and  Mtshabezi  Missions,  but  have  failed  in  securing 
good  ones. 

If  this  little  volume  in  some  small  degree  arouses 
a  greater  interest  among  Christians  in  the  evangeli- 
zation of  the  Dark  Continent,  and  is  a  means  in 
God's  hands  of  getting  the  light  to  a  few  more  of 
the  vast  millions  of  pagan  Africans,  I  shall  feel 
more  than  repaid  for  sending  it  on  its  mission. 

H.  FRANCES  DAVIDSON. 
Auburn,  Ind. 


CONTENTS 


PART  I 
Matopo  Mission 

CHAPTER   I. 

Early  Missionary  Labors — Origin  of  Foreign  Mission- 
ary Work,  1894 — After  Two  Years— An  Appeal— 
My  Call — First  Missionaries — Preparing  to  Sail, 
1897,  ....  .19 

CHAPTER  II. 

On  the  Deep — England — Bound  for  Cape  Town — Ma- 
tabeleland  Chosen — Landing  at  Cape  Town,  29 

CHAPTER  III. 

Cape  Town — Elder  Engle's  Interview  with  Mr.  Rhodes 
— Zulu  Language — Mrs.  Lewis'  Kindness — Journey 
to  Bulawayo,  38 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Matabeleland — Wars  with  the  Natives — Hide  in  the 
Matopo  Hills — Bulawayo — Selection  of  a  Mission 
Site,  45 

CHAPTER  V. 

Trekking  to  the  Hills,  1898— Chief  and  His  People- 
First  View  of  the  Mission  Site — Building  Huts — 
Misunderstandings  with  the  Natives — -Missionaries 
Working,  S3 

11 


12  CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Opening  of  School — Its  Equipments  and  Work — Sun- 
day Services— Learning  the  Language — Kraal-visit- 
ing— Matshuba — Sunday-school,  66 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Reinforcements  and  Supplies — Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cress,  Mr. 
I.  O.  Lehman,  1899— Clothing  for  the  People- 
Building— Old  Queen— First  Baptisms— Boer  V\  a.-,  83 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

The  Cresses  Open  Mission  Station — Sickness  and  Death 
of  Sister  Cress  and  Elder  Engle,  1900 — Sickness 
and  Seventh  Day  Adventist  Doctor — Wedding — 
Brother  Cress  and  Sister  Engle  Return  to  America, 
1900,  56 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Resuming  the  Work — Boys'  Confession — Hluganisa  and 
School  —  Kraal-visiting  —  Locusts  —  Ndhlalambi  — 
Sickness  of  the  Lehmans — Trouble  in  Reference  to 
Mission  Farm 107 

CHAPTER  X. 

Mr.  L.  Doner  and  Miss  Emma  Long  Arrive,  1901 — The 
Lehmans  Go  to  Cape  Town — Industrial  Work — 
Elder  and  Mrs.  Steigerwald  Arrive,  1901 — Building 
House  on  a  Mission  Station — Training  Natives — 
School  Work,  126 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Death  of  Mr.  Rhodes,  1903 — Of  Fusi — Furlough  and 
South  Africa — The  Compound's  Missions — Native 
Bee — Appearance  of  Congregation,  140 

CHAPTER  XII. 

First  View  of  Mapani  Land — Medical  Work — Remind- 
ed of  Call  to  Interior — Return  to  America,  1904 — 
Miss  Sallie  Kreider,  1904 — Opening  of  Mapani  Mis- 
sion and  Sister  Doner's  Death,  1904 — Return  to 


CONTENTS  13 


Africa  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Frey  and  Misses  Adda 
Engle  and  Abbie  Bert,  1905 — Mtshabezi  Mission, 
1906,  155 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Religion  of  Matabele — Ideas  of  God — Umlimo  Oracle — 
Rainmaker — Witchcraft — Transmigration  of  Souls 
—Spiritualism 173 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Customs — Putting  Children  to  Death — Betrothal  and 
Marriage — Native  Kraal — Polygamy  —  Food  and 
Beer — King  Khama — Visits — Generosity  and  Po- 
liteness— Death  and  Burial — Grave  of  King  Mzili- 
kazi,  191 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Visit  to  Matopo,  1910 — Improvements — Brother  and 
Sister  Doner — Mapani — Mtshabezi — Visit  in  1913 — 
Bulawayo  and  Vicinity — Changes  at  Matopo — Aid- 
ing the  People — Love  Feast  at  Mtshabezi — What 
Hath  God  Wrought?  212 


PART  II 
Macha  Mission 

CHAPTER   I. 

Early  Missionary  Labors — Railroad  Building — Start- 
ing for  the  Zambezi,  1906 — Victoria  Falls — David 
Livingstone — Barotseland  and  Other  Missions,  ...237 

CHAPTER  II. 

Preparing  to  Advance — Broken  Wagon — Journey  to 
Kalomo — Interviewing  Officials — Difficulties  in  the 
Way — Permission  to  Proceed — Macha,  252 


14  CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  III. 

Why    Selected — Living   on    the    Veldt — First   Huts — Spir- 
itual   Duties — Learning  an   Unwritten   Language — 
First    Christmas,    263 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Trying  to  Begin  School — Chief  Brings  His  Son — In- 
dustrial Work — School  Books — Wild  Animals — 
Threatened  Uprising — Mr.  M.  Taylor  Arrives,  1907 
— White  Ants — Visit  to  Nanzela,  277 


CHAPTER   V. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jesse  Wenger  Arrive,  1908 — Xeed  of 
Good  Houses — Making  Brick — Tsetse  Fly — Broth- 
er Taylor's  Encounter  with  Lions,  295 


CHAPTER  VI. 

School  Work — English— Evangelistic  Work — Brother 
Taylor  Among  the  Baila — Building  a  House — Elder 
Steigerwald  and  Brother  Doner  Go  North — Visit 
of  Elders  J.  N.  Engle  and  J.  Sheets— Marriage- 
First  Baptism, 306 

CHAPTER   VII. 

Furlough — Encounter  with  Elephant — Misses  E.  Engle 
and  Mary  Heisey  Visit  Macha — Preparing  the  New 
Testament — Out-schools — Murder  of  Chief — Tay- 
lors or  Furlough — Death  of  Semani,  323 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Baby  Ruth— Building  Church— Training  Natives— The 
Year's  Work — Brother  Taylor  Itinerating — Elder 
Steigerwald's  Visit 343 

CHAPTER  IX. 

New  Books— Native  Problems— Studying  the  Native 
Character— Child  Life— Natives  Resourceful— Dark- 
Side  of  Native  Character 355 


CONTENTS  15 


CHAPTER  X. 

Are  They  Lazy? — Three  Natives — Home  Training — 
Charlie — Are  They  Provident? — Naturalists — Atti- 
tude Toward  Whites — Generosity  of  Some — Kraal- 
visiting,  372 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Ideas  of  God — Native  Prophetesses — Rainmakers — 
Death  and  Burial— Digging  a  Grave — Sacrifice  of 
Animals — Beer-wailings — Evil  Spirits,  387 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Tribal  Mark — Decorating  the  Body — Kinship — Betroth- 
al and  Marriage — The  Bride — Hindrances  to  Mis- 
sion Work — Compared  to  the  Matabele — Saluta- 
tions,   402 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Ruth's  Sickness — Medical  Work — A  Visit  Among  the 
People — Remember  the  Aged — David  Goes  to  School 
— Taylors  Go  to  America,  1913 — Wenger's  Return 
—Outpouring  of  the  Spirit — Miss  E.  Engle  and  Mr. 
L.  B.  Steckley  Come  to  Macha — First  Women  Bap- 
tized,   418 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Two  Objects  Paramount — Need  of  Native  Evangelists 
— Visit  to  Out-schools — Mianda — Impongo — Ka- 
banzi — Kabwe — Myeki — Chilumbwe,  440 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Lehmans'  Work — Eysters'  Work — Doners  Open  New 
Station — Present  Status — Are  the  People  Eager  to 
Hear? — What  It  Means  to  Be  a  Missionary — Qual- 
ifications— Difficulties — God  Is  Able^  466 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

H     Frances   Davidson   and   Adda    G.    Engle Frontispiece 

Hut  Huilt  by  H.   Frances  Davidson  and  Alice  Heise  at  Matopo,    58 

Matopo    Mission,    March,    1899 63 

Matopo  Mission  Church   in   1899.     Built  by  Elder  Jesse   Engle,    87 

Mrs.    Cress    Giving   a    Lesson    in    Cleanliness,    91 

Elder   Engle  and   Donkey  Team  at  Matopo   Mission 9S 

Matopo    Cemetery 103 

Matopo  Mission   House.      Front   \  lew,    141 

"  Here  lie  the  remains  of  Cecil  John   Rhodes,"    149 

Matopo   Mission   Church.      Built   by   Elder   Steigerwald  in    1905,    ...159 
Back  View  of  Matopo  Mission  House,  Showing  Granite  Hill  Beyond,  161 

In   the  Matopo   Hills,    163 

Mapani    Mission,    1907 168 

Kwidine  Taking  His  Aunt  to  Church.     Matopo  M.   Hospital 170 

Christian    Wedding    Reception    Near    Matopo,    171 

Matabele   Kraal,    Near   Matopo    Mission 196 

Matabele    Women    Stamping    Grain,    201 

Matabele    Women    Digging 207 

Building  the   Boys'   House  at  Matopo,   M.    S.,    215 

Boys'    Brick   House   at    Matopo    Mission,    215 

A   Native   Christian's   Home.     Matshuba's,    217 

Mtshabezi    Church    and    School,    221 

Mtshabezi    Mission    in    1910 221 

Mtshabezi.      Baptismal    Scene,     224 

Girls    at    Mtshabezi    Mission,    230 

Victoria    Falls    Bridge 241 

Main  View  of  Victoria  Falls,   1  Vi   Miles  Wide 246 

Macha    Mission    Huts,    1907 281 

Macha  Boys  and   Schoolhouse,    287 

The    Last    Invitation 291 

Making    Brick    at    Macha,    302 

Brick  Kiln.     Mr.  Jesse  Wenger  and   Helpers 302 

Macha    Mission    Dwelling   House,    307 

Elder  Steigerwald  and   Mr.   Doner  on  Their  Trip   North   of   Macha,   313 

Crossing  the  Kafue   River  in  a  Native  Dugout,   315 

Batonga   Chiefs   and   Headmen,    317 

First  Baptismal  Scene  at  Macha.      Native  Congregation   Not  Visible,  319 

Wedding    Dinner    at    Macha,     320 

The   Elephant  That  Derailed   the   Train,    325 

Macha    Mission    School,    Boarders,    1910,    327 

Macha  Wagon  and  Oxen  Near  an   Ant  Hill,    330 

Simeoba's  Village,   Viewing  the   Strangers 334 

Sisters  Engle  Crossing  the  Tuli  River  in  the  Matopo  Hills,    337 

The    Battle    Palm 340 

Macha    Mission    Church    and    Boys'    House 347 

Ruth  Taylor  and  Her  Mother.     A  White  Child  in  the  Midst,    351 

Little    Nurses.      Mianda   Village 359 

Batonga    Fisher    Women,     364 

Batonga    Village   with   the   Cattle   Pens   in    the   Foreground 404 

Cattle   Pen   of   the   Batonga,    406 

A   Batonga    Family   Traveling 408 

Native   Women— Widows,    410 

Kabanzi    Chief    with    His    First    W'ife 412 

Giving  the   Gospel   in    Macha    Village,    414 

Macha   Mission,    1913,    419 

Ruth    Taylor 423 

First   Christian    Marriages  at    Macha .    426 

David  Moyo  and  His  Wife  and  Child 429 

Rev.  and  Mrs.  Kerswell  with  Native  Carriers  on  a  Visit  to  Macha,    .431 

Batonga   Chiefs,    Near    Macha    Mission 435 

School   at    Kabanzi    Village,    446 

Sikaluwa,     456 

Brethren    in    Christ   Cottage   and   Chapel   at   Johannesburg,    .  . '. 469 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Isaac  O.  Lehman  and  Family 474 

Boxburg  Mission   Station.      Built   by  Mr.   Jesse   Eyster 479 


PART  ONE 
MATOPO   MISSION 


"  Go  ye  therefore  and  teach  all  nations  " 

—Matt.  28:  19 


SOUTH  AND  SOUTH 
CENTRAL  AFRICA 


CHAPTER  ONE 
The  Beginning  of  Missionary  Effort 

IT  was  at  the  General  Conference  held  in  May, 
1894,  that  tne  Foreign  Missionary  Work  of  the 
Church  of  the  Brethren  in  Christ  originated. 
Previous  to  that  time  the  old  fathers  of  the  church 
had  made  many  missionary  journeys  through  the 
United  States  and  Canada  for  the  advancement  of 
Christ's  Kingdom  and  in  the  interests  of  the  faith 
they  so  dearly  loved.  These  journeys  were  made 
without  remuneration  and  often  with  great  dis- 
comfort and  sacrifice  of  time  and  money.  The 
precept  that  the  Gospel  was  free,  "  without  money 
and  without  price,"  seemed  so  instilled  into  their 
hearts  that  some  of  them,  no  doubt,  would  have  felt 
pained  for  people  to  think  that  they  expected  money 
for  their  services.  So  while  the  laity  were  busy 
with  their  own  temporal  duties,  these  heralds  of  the 
Cross  would  often  leave  their  little  farms  in  care 
of  their  wives  and  of  help,  hired  at  their  own  ex- 
pense, and  devote  weeks  and  months  to  evangelistic 
work,  expecting  what?  Nothing  but  their  food  and 
sometimes  sufficient  to  pay  their  car  fare,  if  they 
went  by  train.  But  it  often  happened  in  those 
early  days  that  the  entire  expense  of  whatever  sort 
19 


20  AFRICA 

was  borne  by  themselves.  They  looked  for  no 
reward  on  earth  save  the  consciousness  that  they 
were  about  their  Master's  business  and  seeking  to 
extend  His  Kingdom  on  earth. 

Much  honor  is  due  those  old  soldiers  for  their 
self-sacrificing  labors.  In  that  Great  Day  when  the 
books  are  opened,  perhaps  the  record  of  their  labors 
may  astonish  some  of  us  who  sometimes  criticise 
them  for  their  slowness  in  launching  the  foreign 
missionary  work  of  the  Church. 

Among  them  were  some  who  were  greatly  bur- 
dened for  the  heathen.  Some  felt  this  lack  of 
Church  activity  so  keenly  that  they  almost  severed 
their  connections  with  it  on  this  account.  Others 
saw  the  need,  but,  realizing  the  smallness  of  mem- 
bership and  the  limited  resources,  thought  the 
Church  was  too  weak  to  launch  out  into  foreign 
missionary  enterprise. 

In  the  meantime  individual  members  were  agitat- 
ing the  question,  and  some  were  planning  to  go 
independently  to  India  and  to  Central  America, 
while  others  were  contemplating  going  under  other 
Mission  Boards. 

While  this  agitation  was  going  on,  the  question 
of  foreign  mission  work  was  brought  forward  at  the 
General  Conference  in  May,  1894,  held  in  the  Bethel 
Church,  Kansas.  .On  Friday,  the  last  day  of  the 
Conference,  a  paper  on  the  subject  was  read  by 
Mrs.  Rhoda  Lee,  but  no  active  steps  were  taken 
and  the  question  was  tabled  indefinitely,  to  the 
great  disappointment  of  some  present.  Later,  on 
the  same  day,  Elder  J.  E.  Stauffer  arose,  and,  plac- 
ing a  five-dollar  bill  on  the  table,  stated  that  it  was 


MATOPO    MISSION  21 

for  foreign  mission  work,  then  sat  down.  This 
action  brought  matters  to  a  crisis.  Here  was  mis- 
sionary money  and  something  must  be  done  with  it. 

After  consultation  it  was  decided  that  the  donor 
be  appointed  Foreign  Missionary  Treasurer,  and  any 
desiring  to  donate  should  give  their  offerings  to 
him ;  and  that,  as  soon  as  sufficient  money  was  in 
the  treasury  to  justify  the  measure,  active  steps 
would  be  taken  toward  sending  out  missionaries. 
By  the  close  of  the  day  thirty-five  dollars  had  been 
placed  in  the  hands  of  the  Treasurer.  The  funds  in- 
creased slowly  but  steadily. 

At  the  Conference  of  1895  held  in  Ontario,  "A 
Foreign  Mission  Board,  consisting  of  Brethren  Pe- 
ter Steckly,  B.  T.  Hoover,  and  J.  E.  Stauffer,  was 
appointed  to  hold  office  for  five  years,  subject,  how- 
ever, to  the  advice  and  control  of  General  Council." 
At  the  next  meeting  of  Conference  in  1896  in  Penn- 
sylvania, "  The  Treasurer  of  the  Foreign  Mission 
Fund,  J.  E.  Stauffer,  submitted  his  report,  and  he 
was  congratulated  for  his  successful  effort.  The 
amount  in  the  treasury  is  $419.60."  This  amount 
had  been  donated  in  two  years.  These  data  have 
been  given  that  it  may  be  seen  how  the  work  has 
grown. 

At  this  meeting  it  was  decided  that  the  funds 
had  increased  sufficiently  to  take  an  advanced  step. 
The  Board  was  increased  to  twelve  members  with 
an  operating  board  of  three.  Of  this  Elder  Samuel 
Zook  was  appointed  treasurer,  Elder  Henry  David- 
son, chairman,  and  Elder  Jesse  Engle,  secretary. 
The  Board  was  empowered  to  secure  volunteers  for 
starting  a  work  among  the  heathen  in  some  foreign 


22  AFRICA 

country,    no   particular   country    being    designated. 

Of  the  General  Board  of  twelve  members,  Breth- 
ren Peter  Steckley,  J.  R.  Zook,  and  Peter  Climen- 
hage  are  still  on  the  Board  after  a  lapse  of  eighteen 
years. 

Just  what  was  done  in  the  interim  I  cannot  say, 
but  on  January  15,  1897,  there  appeared  in  the 
Evangelical  Visitor  the  following: 

AN   APPEAL 

We  would  call  attention  to  the  fact  that  the  committee 
appointed  at  last  Conference  is  ready  to  act  on  the  for- 
eign mission  work,  but  up  to  this  time  they  have  received 
no  applications.  Why  is  it?  Does  the  Lord  not  speak  to 
some  hearts?  Or  is  it  because  the  Church  is  not  praying 
the  Lord  of  the  harvest  to  send  laborers  into  His  harvest? 

The  field  is  white.  The  harvest  is  ready.  Who  will  go 
forth  in  the  name  of  the  Master,  filled  with  the  Holy 
Ghost,  ready  to  lay  his  or  her  life  down  for  the  cause  of 
Christ's  salvation  to  the  heathen?  It  means  something 
to  be  a  foreign  missionary.  It  means  a  full  sacrifice  of 
home,  friends  and  self — a  perfect  cutting  loose.  But, 
praise  the  Lord!  when  it  is  done  for  Christ's  sake  and  the 
Gospel's,  we  shall  receive  an  hundredfold  in  this  life  and 
eternal  life  in  the  world  to  come. 

The  Lord  has  provided  money — somebody  was  willing 
to  give  it,  but  who  will  give  himself?  I  believe  the  Lord 
has  spoken  to  your  heart.  Just  say,  "  Lord,  speak,  thy 
servant  heareth."  And  if  the  Lord  tells  you  to  go,  don't 
do  as  Jonah — try  to  get  away  from  the  Lord — for  as 
Jonah  did  not  fare  well,  neither  will  you.  But  if  you  obey 
God,  He  will  go  with  you  into  the  ship.  We  are  ready 
and  waiting  to  receive  applications,  but  somebody  must 
be  willing  to  obey  God  or  the  work  will  be  delayed 
while  souls  are  perishing. 

If  the  Lord  lays  it  upon  your  heart  to  give  because  you 
can  not  go  yourself,  please  send  your  donations  to  Elder 


MATOPO   MISSION  23 

Jesse  Engle,  Donegal,  Kansas,  as  he  is  the  committee's 
secretary  and  will  keep  a  correct  account  of  all  money 
received  and  hand  it  over  to  the  treasurer.  The  commit- 
tee has  not  decided  yet  where  the  field  shall  be,  but  will 
decide  when  such  workers  present  themselves  as  are  be- 
lieved to  be  called  of  God.  South  Africa  has  been  spoken 
of;  also  South  or  Central  America.  No  doubt  God 
will  direct  when  the  time  comes  that  somebody  is  willing 
to  go.  Who  shall  it  be? 

SAMUEL  ZOOK. 

At  that  time  I  was  teaching  in  McPherson  Col- 
lege, Kansas,  and  was  greatly  enjoying  the  work. 
It  was  my  seventh  year  at  that  place,  and  just  the 
day  before  the  article  had  appeared  I  had  entered 
into  a  verbal  agreement  with  the  other  members  of 
the  faculty  to  remain  for  some  years,  the  Lord  will- 
ing. No  thought  of  the  foreign  field  had  entered 
my  mind  previous  to  this,  except  a  readiness  for 
whatever  the  Lord  had  for  me  to  do.  Up  to  that 
time  I  verily  thought  I  was  doing  His  will  by  being 
in  the  classroom. 

The  day  that  "  The  Appeal "  appeared  in  the 
Visitor,  it  was  read  like  the  other  matter  and  noth- 
ing further  was  thought  of  it ;  but  the  day  following 
the  Lord  came  to  me,  as  it  were,  in  the  midst  of 
the  class  work,  in  the  midst  of  other  plans  for  the 
future,  and  swept  away  my  books,  reserving  only 
the  Bible.  In  reality  He  showed  me  Christ  lifted 
up  for  a  lost  world.  He  filled  me  with  an  unutter 
able  love  for  every  soul  who  had  not  heard  of  Him, 
and  with  a  passionate  longing  to  go  to  worst  parts 
of  the  earth,  away  from  civilization,  away  from 
other  mission  bodies,  and  spend  the  rest  of  my  life 
in  telling  the  story  of  the  Cross. 


24  AFRICA 

We  prefer  not  to  dwell  too  minutely  on  the  feel- 
ings of  that  sacred  hour.  Sufficient  to  say  that  there 
and  then  He  anointed  me  for  service  among  the 
heathen.  Not  that  I  have  measured  up  to  all  that 
He  placed  before  me  on  that  day.  On  the  con- 
trary I  have  fallen  far  short ;  but  the  consciousness 
of  that  call  has  ever  been  with  me,  and  has  strength- 
ened and  kept  me,  in  the  thickest  of  the  fight  in 
heathen  lands.  Even  when  the  battle  was  sore  and 
defeat  stared  me  in  the  face,  the  conviction  that  it 
was  His  appointment  and  His  work  for  me  kept  me 
fast. 

My  first  step  was  to  go  to  my  colleagues  and  ask 
to  be  released  from  the  agreement  into  which  I 
had  entered  with  them.  They  were  as  much  sur- 
prised at  the  turn  affairs  had  taken  as  I  had  been, 
but  readily  agreed  not  to  stand  in  the  way  of  the 
Lord's  call.  A  letter  was  then  sent  to  the  Mission 
Board,  informing  them  of  the  call  to  service  and  my 
readiness  to  go  and  at  once  if  they  deemed  it  advis- 
able to  send  me. 

Much  had  been  said  about  missionary  work  and 
many  had  seemed  eager  to  go,  so  that  I  somewhat 
tremblingly  awaited  the  result,  feeling  that  they 
might  not  consider  me  fitted.  At  the  same  time  a 
private  letter  was  dispatched  to  my  father,  who  was 
Chairman  of  the  Board,  telling  him  of  my  convic- 
tions and  call.  A  letter  came  first  from  dear  father. 
He  had  been  quite  unprepared  for  the  news  con- 
tained in  my  letter,  and  his  answer  can  best  be 
summed  up  in  two  of  his  sentences :  "  How  can  I 
say  yes?  and  how  dare  I  say  no?"  He  closed  the 
letter  by  advising  me  to  wait  a  year  or  two  until 


MATOPO   MISSION  25 

others  were  ready  to  go.  The  official  letter  from  the 
Board  through  the  Secretary,  Elder  Jesse  Engle, 
stated  that  I  was  the  only  applicant  so  far  and  had 
been  accepted,  but  that  there  would  be  time  to 
finish  the  year's  teaching.  It  was  quite  a  surprise 
and  disappointment  to  me  to  learn  that  there  were 
still  no  other  applicants,  but  not  long  afterwards 
word  came  that  Elder  Jesse  Engle  and  wife  were 
likewise  seriously  considering  the  question. 

He,  as  many  of  my  readers  know,  had  realized  a 
call  to  give  the  Gospel  to  the  heathen  while  he  was 
still  a  young  man,  but  probably  from  lack  of  en- 
couragement and  from  other  seemingly  insurmount- 
able obstacles  had  not  obeyed.  Now,  at  the  ad- 
vanced age  of  fifty-nine  years,  he  still  felt  that  his 
work  was  not  done ;  and  he  was  ready  to  enter  the 
field,  if  his  way  opened,  even  though  it  might  appear 
to  be  at  the  eleventh  hour.  And  she,  who  had  nobly 
stood  by  his  side  for  so  many  years,  could  still  say, 
"  My  place  is  beside  my  husband.  Where  he  goes  I 
too  will  follow." 

In  the  meantime  the  question  as  to  the  location 
of  this  first  missionary  venture  was  beginning  to 
agitate  the  minds  of  some  of  us.  The  Board  felt 
that  the  missionaries  should  be  consulted  in  the 
matter.  The  conditions  then  existing  in  South 
America  were  attracting  the  attention  of  the  Chris- 
tian world.  Some  countries,  notably  Equador,  were 
for  the  first  time  being  opened  to  missionaries.  The 
sore  need  there  appealed  to  me  and  led  to  corre- 
spondence with  others  in  reference  to  that  field ; 
but  no  on,e  was  ready  to  go  there.  Later  I  learned 
from  Brother  Engle  that  he  was  led  to  Africa,  the 


26  AFRICA 

country  of  his  early  call.  The  location  was  imma- 
terial to  me,  for  my  call  was  to  the  neediest  field, 
and  I  soon  realized  that  Africa,  with  its  unexplored 
depths,  its  superstition  and  degradation,  its  mid- 
night darkness,  was  surely  in  need  of  the  Light  of 
Life. 

The  cheering  news  soon  came  that  Miss  Alice 
Heise  also  had  applied  and  been  accepted  as  a  for- 
eign missionary.  That  increased  the  number  to 
four. 

At  the  General  Conference  in  May,  1897,  at  Valley 
Chapel,  Ohio,  the  following  report  was  given  and 
adopted : 

Report  of  the  amount  of  money  in  the  hands  of  the 
Treasurer  of  Foreign  Mission  to  date,  $693.46. 

Four  candidates  presented  themselves  for  the  foreign 
mission  field  and  have  been  accepted  as  follows:  Elder 
Jesse  Engle  and  Sister  Elizabeth  Engle,  his  wife,  of  Done- 
gal, Kansas;  Sister  H.  Frances  Davidson,  Abilene,  Kan- 
sas; and  Sister  Alice  Heise,  Hamlin,  Kansas,  and  if  ap- 
proved by  Conference,  it  is  recommended  that  they  should 
be  ready  to  start  for  their  field  of  labor  as  early  as  Sep- 
tember or  October,  provided  that  sufficient  means  are  at 
hand  to  pay  their  passage  to  their  place  of  destination, 
which  means  are  to  be  raised  by  voluntary  contributions 
as  the  Lord  may  direct,  and  to  be  sent  directly  to  the  ad- 
dress of  each  of  the  missionaries. 

The  Board  recommends  that  to  complete  the  number 
of  workers  there  should  be  one  more  added  to  the  num- 
ber in  the  person  of  a  brother  as  an  assistant  to  Brother 
Jesse  Engle. 

The  Board  further  recommends  that  the  Conference 
now  in  session  select  some  well  qualified  brother  to  fill 
the  vacancy  occasioned  by  Brother  Jesse  Engle  on  the 
Foreign  Mission  Board.  Brother  W.  O.  Baker  was  ap- 


MATOPO   MISSION  27 

pointed  to  fill  the  vacancy  (provided  Brother  Engle  should 
go);  all  of  which  is  respectfully  submitted. 

HENRY    DAVIDSON,  Chairman. 

SAMUEL   ZOOK,    Treasurer. 

The  summer  of  1897  passed  slowly  for  some  of 
us  who  were  eager  to  be  on  the  way;  but  even  the 
days  of  waiting  and  visiting  were  a  part  of  our 
preparation.  They  were  solemn  and  momentous 
days  also  to  others  besides  those  who  were  going. 
Some  of  the  friends  felt  that  we  should  not  go ; 
others  with  tears  bade  us  Godspeed,  feeling  that  we 
might  probably  never  look  one  another  in  the  face 
on  earth  again.  In  October  a  little  farewell  meet- 
ing was  held  at  Dayton,  Ohio,  where  God's  blessing 
was  invoked  on  the  work,  and  here  I  said  good-bye 
to  dear  old  father,  realizing  that  it  would  likely  be 
for  the  last  time.  At  Harrisburg,  Pennsylvania,  we 
were  pleased  to  receive  into  our  number  Miss  Bar- 
bara Hershey,  of  Kansas,  who  also  was  called  to 
the  work. 

The  actual  moving  out  of  the  missionaries  was  al- 
so a  great  impetus  to  the  financial  part  of  the  under- 
taking. During  the  few  months  previous  to  sailing 
$1,500  was  given  by  voluntary  contributions  into  the 
hands  of  the  missionaries  themselves,  more  than 
half  of  which  was  handed  to  Brother  and  Sister 
Engle  in  their  extended  tour  of  the  Brotherhood. 
In  addition  to  this,  $639.70  was  during  the  same 
time  handed  to  the  Treasurer,  making  $1,211.64  in 
his  hands. 

On  November  21  a  general  farewell  and  ordina- 
tion meeting  for  all  was  held  in  the  Messiah  Home 
Chapel,  Harrisburg,  Pennsylvania,  where  the  five 


28  AFRICA 

prospective  missionaries  were  set  apart  for  the  work 
of  the  Lord.  No  brother  had  volunteered  to  go 
along  as  a  helper  to  Elder  Engle.  This  was  a 
solemn  time  to  those  going,  for  a  new  and  untried 
field  was  before  them  and  a  voyage  and  country  of 
which  they  as  yet  knew  nothing.  And  yet  there 
was  no  fear,  no  anxiety.  On  the  contrary,  to  some 
of  us  the  joy  of  having  the  privilege  of  being  His 
messengers  to  those  sitting  in  darkness  transcended 
all  other  emotions,  and  our  journal  of  that  time  is 
full  of  expressions  of  longing  to  be  in  darkest  Africa. 
At  that  meeting  Elder  Engle  delivered  a  farewell 
address  with  power  and  unction  from  on  High,  and 
the  rest  told  of  their  call.  After  the  ordination  of 
all  had  taken  place,  we  commemorated  the  death 
and  sufferings  of  our  Savior. 

If  we  may  judge  from  expressions  made  at  the 
time  and  since,  there  were  others  in  that  large  audi- 
ence that  evening  to  whom  the  occasion  was  an  im- 
portant and  impressive  one.  The  Church  was  rising 
to  a  sense  of  her  opportunity  and  privilege — yes, 
and  duty  of  carrying  out  the  Great  Commission. 
As  we  went  forth,  we  felt  that  the  prayers  of  the 
entire  Church  were  bearing  us  up,  and  that  gave 
renewed  strength  and  courage  all  along  the  way. 
Those  prayers  buoyed  us  up  as  we  went  forth  even 
into  the  blackness  of  heathendom;  they  opened 
doors  that  otherwise  would  have  been  closed ;  yes, 
and  best  of  all,  they  opened  dark  hearts  that  the 
light  of  the  glorious  Gospel  of  Christ  might  pene- 
tate-TThose  prayers  yet  today  are  rising  as  sweet 
incense  in  behalf  of  the  Dark  Continent. 


CHAPTER    TWO 
The  Voyage  and  Landing 

Now  the  Lord  had  said  unto  Abraham,  Get  thee  out 
of  thy  country  and  from  thy  kindred  and  from  thy  fa- 
ther's house,  unto  a  land  that  I  will  shew  thee. — Gen. 
12:  1. 

SEVENTEEN  years  ago  a  voyage  to  Africa  was 
not  the  common  occurrence  to  us  plain  coun- 
try folk  that  it  is  today.  The  majority  of  us 
had  never  seen  the  sea,  we  knew  no  one  who  had 
made  the  trip,  and  we  knew  less  about  the  continent 
of  Africa. 

It  had  been  decided  that  we  should  sail  November 
24,  1897.  While  Elder  and  Mrs.  Engle  were  making 
their  tour  of  the  churches,  some  of  us  had  finished 
visiting  and  were  waiting  the  time  of  sailing.  So 
he  suggested  that  we  secure  the  tickets.  We  did  so 
to  England,  and  through  an  agent,  Mr.  Mills,  of 
England,  arranged  in  advance  for  tickets  from  En- 
gland to  Cape  Town.  The  tickets  were  bought,  the 
good-byes  were  over,  and  the  date  of  sailing  found 
us  all  at  New  York  Harbor,  a  little  anxious,  it  is 
true,  but  eager  to  launch. 

Being  inexperienced,  we  had  a  little  difficulty  in 
having  some  money  matters  attended  to.  Sister 
Hershey  and  myself  had  each  a  draft  which  we 
desired  to  have  exchanged  for  one  on  an  English 
bank,  and  were  told  by  one  of  the  men  to  take  them 
to  the  bank  on  which  they  were  drawn  and  have 
29 


30  AFRICA 

it  attended  to  there.  So  we  were  obliged  to  go  up 
into  the  city  the  morning  of  the  date  of  sailing, 
when  the  steamer  was  to  leave  at  12  M.  We  were 
gone  all  morning,  only  to  find  on  reaching  the  bank 
that  there  was  no  one  to  identify  us,  and  nothing 
could  be  done.  Hurrying  back  to  the  hotel,  we 
secured  our  hand  baggage  and  hastened  to  the 
wharf.  The  rest  of  the  company  had  already  em- 
barked, and  only  a  few  minutes  remained  until 
time  of  sailing,  but  we  appealed  to  our  agent  to 
exchange  the  drafts  for  some  on  an  English  bank. 
Although  one  of  the  other  men  objected  on  account 
of  the  shortness  of  time,  he  promptly  attended  to 
them,  Elders  Jacob  Engle  and  John  Niesly,  who  were 
brothers  of  Brother  and  Sister  Engle  and  had  come 
to  see  them  off,  going  security.  The  gangway  for 
passengers  had  already  been  removed  from  the 
steamer  and  we  hurried  along  that  on  which  bag- 
gage was  carried.  As  soon  as  we  were  aboard,  the 
steamer  Majestic  began  to  move;  and  ere  we  found 
the  rest  of  our  company  on  board,  a  narrow  stretch 
of  water  lay  between  us  and  our  native  land. 

This,  our  first  voyage  across  the  Atlantic,  was  a 
delightful  one.  The  sea  was  unusually  calm  for 
that  season  of  the  year,  so  that  none  of  our  number 
became  sick,  except  one,  as  we  neared  the  coast  of 
Ireland.  The  passengers  on  board  were  on  the 
whole  congenial.  As  we  paced  up  and  down  the 
deck,  many  thoughts  crowded  in  upon  us  too  deep 
for  utterance.  What  did  the  future  have  in  store  lor 
us?  What  awaited  us  on  the  other  side?  The  Lord 
alone,  whose  messengers  we  were,  could  foresee. 
The  great,  wide,  boundless  space  of  water  was  an 


MATOPO   MISSION  31 

ever-increasing  source  of  interest  and  delight,  and 
greatly  enlarged  our  conception  of  the  power  and 
majesty  of  Him  "  who  hath  measured  the  waters  in 
the  hollow  of  His  hand."  We  felt  in  truth  that  we 
had  let  go  the  shore  lines  and  had  launched  out  into 
the  ocean  of  His  love. 

The  second  day  out  was  Thanksgiving  Day,  and 
in  company  with  another  missionary  on  board  we 
had  a  very  enjoyable  service  which  was  attended 
by  most  of  the  second-class  passengers.  Sunday 
morning  there  were  the  regulation  Church  of  En- 
gland services,  and  later  our  genial  table  steward 
asked  Elder  Engle  to  preach  in  the  evening.  He 
did  so  to  a  large,  intelligent,  and  interested  con- 
gregation. As  there  had  been  much  conjecture 
among  the  passengers  as  to  who  we  were,  and  what 
our  belief  was,  he  embraced  the  opportunity,  while 
speaking,  of  setting  forth  some  of  the  tenets  of  our 
faith,  much  to  the  satisfaction  of  those  present. 

On  November  31  the  steamer  reached  Liverpool, 
England,  and  the  first  part  of  the  voyage  was  at  an 
end.  As  we  stood  on  deck  gazing  at  the  strange 
scenes  around  us  and  at  the  sea  of  unfamiliar  faces 
looking  up  into  ours,  and  awaiting  our  turn  to  dis- 
embark, we  realized  in  truth  that  we  were  strangers 
in  a  strange  land.  How  was  our  agent  to  be  found 
on  that  crowded  wharf? — but  this  question  was 
quickly  settled.  No  sooner  had  we  stepped  off  the 
gangway,  than  a  gentleman  approached,  and,  naming 
us,  introduced  himself  as  Mr.  Mills,  our  agent. 
What  a  relief  it  was  to  all  of  us  in  our  ignorance  of 
foreign  travel!  We  were  thus  forcibly  reminded 
that  He  was  going  before  and  preparing  the  way 


32  AFRICA 

so  that  we  need  have  no  anxious  fear.  This  thought 
was  further  impressed  upon  our  minds  as  we  en- 
tered our  room  in  the  little  hotel  in  Liverpool,  for 
there,  on  the  opposite  wall,  as  we  opened  the  door 
were  the  words,  "  The  Lord  shall  be  thy  confidence." 
Mr.  Mills  then  and  there  took  charge  of  us  and  our 
baggage  and  did  not  relax  his  vigilance  until  we  had 
safely  embarked  for  South  Africa. 

Fortunate  it  was  that  our  baggage  was  in  such 
good  hands,  for  part  of  it  had  been  miscarried  and 
reached  the  steamer  at  Southampton  only  about  an 
hour  before  we  left  that  port  for  South  Africa.  En- 
glish travel  has  many  things  to  recommend  it,  some 
of  which  Americans  would  do  well  to  profit  by ;  but 
one  learns  to  appreciate  the  excellent  system  of 
handling  baggage  in  America  only  after  he  has  had 
a  little  experience  of  the  slipshod  manner  in  vogue 
abroad.  This  fact  was  again  brought  to  my  atten- 
tion on  my  first  furlough  to  America  nearly  seven 
years  later.  When  I  disembarked  at  New  York,  an 
English  lady  from  the  same  steamer  bought  a  rail- 
road ticket  from  New  York  to  San  Francisco  and 
checked  her  baggage. 

I  said  to  her,  "  Now  you  need  not  trouble  yourself 
about  your  baggage  until  you  reach  your  destina- 
tion." 

"  So  they  tell  me,"  she  replied.  "  It  will  seem  so 
strange  to  travel  without  having  to  look  after  one's 
luggage." 

One  is  pleased  to  note,  however,  that  the  in- 
creased amount  of  foreign  travel  of  late  years  has 
brought  about  some  improvement  along  this  line, 
even  in  conservative  England. 


MATOPO   MISSION  33 

The  ride  from  Liverpool  to  London  was  most 
enjoyable,  and  would  have  been  still  more  so  had 
there  been  some  one  to  point  out  the  places  of 
interest.  The  fields,  still  green  at  that  late  date, 
were  well  kept ;  but  the  methods  employed  in  farm- 
ing- seemed  somewhat  antiquated  to  people  fresh 
from  the  farms  of  western  America.  As  the  train 
glided  along  we  were  favored  with  a  glimpse  of  a 
hunting  party  in  their  brilliant  colored  costumes  in 
pursuit  of  the  poor  little  animals  on  one  of  the  game 
reserves.  The  small  private  compartments  on  the 
train  were  a  pleasing  novelty,  but  there  was  no  one 
to  call  off  the  names  of  the  cities  through  which  the 
train  was  passing,  and  the  surroundings  were  too 
new  for  us  to  know  where  to  look  for  the  names. 
Once  when  the  guard  came  to  examine  our  tickets, 
I  inquired  the  name  of  the  place.  Concluding  from 
his  silence  that  he  had  not  understood,  I  ventured 
to  repeat  the  question.  The  stare  he  gave  made  me 
realize  that  I  had  been  guilty  of  a  breach  of  some- 
thing, but  what  it  was  is  not  exactly  clear  to  me  to 
this  day.  We  also  had  a  glimpse  of  London,  that 
great  metropolis,  with  its  narrow,  crowded  streets, 
its  rush  of  business,  and  its  perfectly-controlled  busi- 
ness traffic.  Here  our  company  was  met  by  another 
agent,  who  conveyed  us  to  Black  Wall  and  placed 
us  on  the  steamer  Pembroke  Castle,  of  the  Union 
Castle  Line,  for  a  three  weeks'  voyage  to  Cape 
Town. 

The  associations  on  the  Majestic  had  been  pleas- 
ant and  we  expected  a  similar  experience  on  this 
second  steamer ;  but  the  long  voyage  to  Cape  Town 
leaves  much  to  be  desired.  One  may  always  find 


34  AFRICA 

some  congenial  spirits,  but  even  under  the  best  cir- 
cumstances the  voyage  finally  becomes  tiresome. 
Only  too  often  the  more  turbulent  element  gains 
the  upperhand,  so  that  drinking,  gambling,  dancing, 
and  even  grosser  evils  prevail. 

After  sailing  from  Southampton  one  soon  leaves 
behind  the  cold,  chilly  winds  of  the  temperate  cli- 
mate and  begins  to  enjoy  the  soft,  balmy  breezes  of 
the  subtropical  climate.  However,  as  the  heat  be- 
comes more  intense,  this  enjoyment  gradually  gives 
place  to  discomfort.  The  only  stop  on  the  way  to 
Cape  Town  was  at  Las  Palmas,  on  Canary  Island. 
As  we  approached  the  place,  the  low-lying  moun- 
tain peaks  could  have  been  mistaken  for  clouds,  but 
soon  the  entire  island  lay  before  us  in  all  its  beauty. 
What  appeared  at  first  sight  to  be  bare  cliffs  were 
soon  seen  to  be  clothed  with  verdure ;  and  while  we 
were  feasting  our  eyes  on  the  scene,  on  one  side  of 
the  steamer,  our  attention  was  called  to  the  opposite 
side  where  the  city  of  Las  Palmas  lay.  It  was  in- 
deed a  magnificent  scene  and  beggars  description. 
The  city,  which  is  almost  entirely  white,  rises  tier 
after  tier  up  the  mountain  side,  and  the  whole  had  a 
dark  background  of  mountain  peaks.  We  were  in 
the  bay  with  the  island  nearly  surrounding  us.  In 
a  short  time  our  steamer  was  encompassed  by  a 
number  of  small  boats  full  of  natives,  some  of  whom 
came  to  sell  their  wares  of  fruit  or  fancywork.  Oth- 
er boats  were  full  of  diving  boys,  ready  to  plunge 
into  the  sea  for  money  thrown  from  the  steamer 
into  the  water. 

In  a  short  time  the  steamer  was  again  on  its  way; 
but  where  was  it  taking  the  little  band  of  mission- 


MATOPO   MISSION  35 

aries?  and  what  was  to  be  their  final  destination? 
Their  tickets  called  for  Cape  Town,  but  beyond  that 
the  way  seemed  like  a  sealed  book.  Africa,  with  its 
barbarism,  its  unknown  depths,  its  gross  darkness, 
lay  before  them ;  and  they  were  keenly  conscious  of 
their  ignorance  of  the  continent.  They  had  implicit 
confidence,  however,  in  their  Great  Leader,  and  be- 
lieved that  they  were  going  to  a  place  which  the 
Lord  said  He  would  show  them.  Many  prayers 
ascended  that  they  might  understand  His  voice 
when  He  spoke  to  them. 

Personally  their  ideas  about  the  location  of  the 
work  differed.  At  first  Elder  Engle  felt  drawn  for 
various  reasons  towards  the  Transvaal  (not  Jo- 
hannesburg), because  that  was  not  so  far  inland. 
To  one  of  the  party  the  call  had  been  distinctly  into 
the  interior  and  most  needy  regions  where  Christ 
had  not  been  named.  All,  however,  were  ready  to 
let  the  Lord  lead. 

A  number  of  the  passengers  on  the  steamer  were 
familiar  with  some  parts  of  Africa  and  gave  valu- 
able information.  One  of  the  officers,  the  chief 
engineer,  was  especially  helpful.  He  brought  out 
his  maps  and  went  carefully  over  the  ground,  show- 
ing where  missionaries  were  located  and  where 
there  was  need.  Ere  the  party  left  the  steamer,  the 
consensus  of  opinion  seemed  to  be  that  Rhodesia,  or 
the  part  of  it  known  as  Matabeleland,  was  the 
Lord's  place  for  them  to  begin  aggressive  mission- 
ary work.  This  was  further  confirmed  when  it  was 
learned  that  the  Cape  to  Cairo  Railroad  had  just 
been  completed  as  far  as  Bulawayo,  the  chief  town 
of  Matabeleland. 


36  AFRICA 

This  having  been  decided  upon,  the  next  question 
was  as  to  how  long  they  were  to  remain  at  Cape 
Town  before  proceeding  into  the  interior.  The 
amount  of  money  at  their  disposal  was  not  large, 
and  as  it  was  the  Lord's  money  it  was  necessary  to 
know  His  will  as  to  its  disposal.  They  soon  learned 
that  He  was  continuing  to  go  before  and  prepare 
the  way.  Those  were  precious  days  of  waiting  on 
Him ;  for  never  does  His  will  and  guidance  seem  so 
precious  as  when  He  is  showing  only  one  step  at  a 
time,  and  as  one  becomes  willing  to  take  that,  lo! 
another  is  revealed  just  beyond.  Why  then  do  we 
so  often  halt,  fearing  to  walk  alone  with  Him,  know- 
ing that  we  cannot  stumble  as  long  as  we  keep  hold 
of  His  dear  hand? 

On  December  26  the  steamer  entered  beautiful 
Table  Bay,  and  the  long  voyage  was  over.  Praises 
ascended  to  Him  Who  had  given  such  a  prosperous 
journey.  It  was  Sunday  when  land  was  reached 
and  the  passengers  were  allowed  to  remain  on  board 
the  steamer  until  Monday  if  they  so  desired.  All 
of  us  attended  divine  services  on  land  Sunday  morn- 
ing, and  in  the  afternoon  Brother  and  Sister  Engle 
went  to  the  Y.  WT.  C.  A.  Building  where  the  Secre- 
tary, Miss  Reed,  offered  to  help  them  look  for 
rooms. 

They  accordingly  went  on  Monday  morning,  the 
rest  of  us  remaining  with  the  boxes  and  in  prayer. 
They  at  first  were  unsuccessful  in  securing  rooms, 
but  after  again  looking  to  the  Lord  for  guidance, 
Miss  Reed  was  impressed  to  take  them  to  a  Mrs. 
Lewis  (nee  Shriner),  a  prominent  temperance  and 
reform  worker  of  Cape  Town,  and  a  most  devoted 


MATOPO    MISSION  37 

Christian.  This  lady  was  a  friend  in  need  to  many 
of  God's  children.  She  had  lately  rented  a  large 
building  in  connection  with  her  work;  but  the  ven- 
ture had  not  been  as  successful  as  she  had  hoped, 
and  she  was  in  prayer  about  the  matter,  pleading 
that  the  place  might  be  made  a  blessing  to  some 
one.  Even  as  she  prayed,  three  persons  stood  at 
her  door  desiring  to  speak  with  her.  These  were 
Miss  Reed  and  Elder  and  Mrs.  Engle,  whom  the 
Lord  had  directed  thither.  As  soon  as  she  heard 
their  errand,  she  felt  that  here  was  an  answer  to 
her  prayer.  Arrangements  were  immediately  made 
by  which  they  were  to  receive  three  plainly-fur- 
nished rooms  for  a  sum  which  was  very  moderate 
indeed  for  Cape  Town.  She  said  she  would  prefer 
to  give  the  rooms  gratis  if  she  were  in  a  position 
financially  to  do  so.  Together  they  fell  on  their 
knees  and  thanked  the  Lord  for  answered  prayer 
which  meant  so  much  to  all  concerned.  When  Eld- 
er Engle  returned  to  the  waiting  ones  their  hearts, 
too,  leaped  for  joy  at  the  good  news.  They  thought 
it  was  almost  too  good  to  be  true,  that  so  soon 
rooms  had  been  secured,  and  that  they  were  to 
have  a  little  home  of  their  own  without  the  expenses 
of  a  hotel.  Truly,  "  He  is  able  to  do  exceeding 
abundantly  all  that  we  ask  or  think."  Boxes  were 
soon  transferred  to  the  new  home  and  our  feet 
planted  firmly  on  African  soil. 


CHAPTER  THREE 
Preparation  and  Progress 

WE  were  here  on  the  threshold  of  Africa, 
eager  to  move  out.  We  realized,  how- 
ever, how  meager  was  our  knowledge  of 
this  vast  continent  and  its  needs,  so  it  was  necessary 
to  go  slow  and  gain  all  possible  information  from 
this  vantage  ground. 

Cape  Town  is  the  oldest  of  South  African  cities 
and  is  the  largest  seaport  town,  having  a  population 
of  about  80,000  inhabitants.  The  long,  tiresome  sea 
voyage  being  over,  the  sight  of  this  picturesque  city, 
nestling  so  cozily  at  the  foot  of  Table  Mountain,  is 
one  long  to  be  remembered.  The  mountain  rises 
abruptly  3,850  feet  in  the  background  of  the  city. 
Its  majestic  flat  top  is  two  miles  long,  and  when  the 
weather  is  clear,  it  stands  sharply  outlined  against 
the  blue  sky.  Frequently,  however,  a  white  cloud, 
known  as  the  "  Table  Cloth,"  comes  up  from  the 
sea  from  the  back  of  the  mountain  and  rolls  down 
over  the  face,  a  sign  that  a  change  of  weather  is 
imminent.  It  has  been  said,  "  The  glory  of  Table 
Bay  is  Table  Mountain,"  and  "  The  glory  of  Table 
Mountain  is  the  Table  Cloth."  Bay,  town,  and 
mountain  combine  to  make  the  picture  beautiful  and 
unique  of  its  kind. 

Cape  Town  was  laid  out  by  the  Dutch,  and  the 
substantial,  antiquated-looking  houses  in  the  older 
38 


MATOPO    MISSION  39 

parts  of  the  city  bear  ample  testimony  to  this  fact. 
There  are  also  many  fine,  modernly-built  houses. 
The  place  is  supplied  with  all  the  latest  improve- 
ments, which  are  a  necessary  part  of  a  modern  city. 
The  population  is  most  varied.  Dutch,  English, 
Hottentots,  Malays,  and  Kafirs  abound.  The  scenes 
on  some  of  the  streets  at  that  time,  especially  in  the 
evenings  and  on  holidays,  were  most  varied  and  pic- 
turesque. There  were  to  be  seen  Europeans  in  ci- 
vilian dress,  others  in  soldier's  uniform,  Malays  in, 
their  turbans  and  bright,  flowing  robes,  well-dressed 
blacks,  and  the  raw  native  African  with  only  a 
gunny  sack  to  cover  him,  for  clothed  he  must  be 
before  he  can  enter  the  city. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lewis,  together  with  other  Chris- 
tian people  whom  we  met  at  Cape  Town,  thought 
Matabeleland,  the  chosen  field,  was  a  good  one, 
especially  the  Matopo  Hills,  as  there  were  no  mis- 
sionaries in  that  locality.  The  late  Cecil  Rhodes, 
who  was  still  powerful  in  Rhodesia,  was  at  that 
time  living  on  his  estate,  Groot  Schuur,  near  Cape 
Town,  and  Bishop  Engle  was  advised  to  go  to 
him  and  endeavor  to  obtain  from  him  a  tract  of 
land  for  a  mission  site.  This  was  another  special 
season  of  looking  to  the  Lord  on  the  part  of  the 
little  company,  that  He  might  overrule  it  to  His 
glory  and  to  the  advancement  of  His  Kingdom. 
Brother  Engle  was  received  kindly  by  the  gentle- 
man, and  his  request  was  favorably  coiibidered, 
especially  the  suggestion  of  going  to  the  Matopo 
Hills.  He  at  once  gave  Brother  Engle  a  letter  to 
the  British  Charter  Company,  of  Rhodesia,  with 
the  recommendation  that  we  be  given  3,000  acres 


40  AFRICA 

of  land  in  the  Matopo  Hills  for  a  mission  station. 
He  added  that  "  missionaries  are  better  than  police- 
men and  cheaper." 

Every  forward  step  only  served  to  confirm  us  in 
the  decision  on  the  steamer  that  Matabeleland, 
which  is  a  part  of  Rhodesia,  was  the  Lord's  place 
for  opening  up  His  work  in  Africa.  The  fact  that 
the  railroad  had  just  shortly  before  been  completed 
that  far,  thus  making  it  easier  of  access ;  the  advice 
of  those  on  the  steamer  who  were  familiar  with  the 
country;  the  advice  of  the  spiritually-minded 
friends  met  at  Cape  Town,  and  the  encouragement 
given  by  him,  the  "  Empire  Builder,"  who  perhaps 
more  than  anyone  else  had  the  welfare  of  the  coun- 
try at  heart  and  whose  name,  Rhodesia,  the  country 
bore,  together  with  the  conviction  of  the  mission- 
aries themselves,  all  served  to  set  at  rest  any  further 
question  as  to  location  that  might  arise. 

Sister  Hershey,  it  is  true,  was  somewhat  burdened 
as  to  whether  Rhodesia  was  the  Lord's  place  for 
her.  While  she  was  seeking  to  know  His  will  in 
the  matter,  she  received  a  letter  from  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Worcester,  of  Johannesburg,  inviting  her  to  come 
and  assist  in  the  missionary  work  at  the  Com- 
pounds. She  felt  at  once  that  this  was  the  Lord's 
place  for  her,  and  accepted  it  as  from  Him.  We 
were  truly  sorry  to  lose  so  valuable  and  consecrated 
a  colaborer  in  the  work,  but  felt  to  bow  in  submis- 
sion to  Him  Who  knoweth  best. 

While  we  were  waiting  at  Cape  Town,  we  learned 
that  the  Tebele  language  spoken  by  the  natives  in 
Matopo  Hills  and  vicinity  was  a  dialect  of  the  Zulu 
language.  The  Bible  had  been  translated  into  the 


MATOPO   MISSION  41 

Zulu,  and  there  were  grammars  and  dictionaries  to 
be  had,  and  we  at  once  endeavored  to  procure  these 
so  that  we  might  do  some  studying.  Efforts  were 
also  made  to  secure  a  teacher,  but  the  Zulu  teacher 
recommended  did  not  have  sufficient  English  to  be 
of  any  real  service  to  us  except  in  the  pronunciation 
of  Zulu  words,  so  we  were  obliged  to  study  on  alone 
and  consequently  made  very  little  progress. 

We  had  arrived  at  Cape  Town  in  the  midst  of  the 
summer  and  dry  season.  Like  California,  Cape 
Town  and  vicinity  have  rains  chiefly  in  the  winter, 
and  a  most  healthful  climate  the  year  round.  Other 
parts  of  South  Africa,  however,  have  their  rainy  sea- 
son in  the  summer,  and  in  some  localities,  notably 
Rhodesia  and  farther  inland,  the  deadly  malarial  fe- 
ver is  especially  severe  during  the  rainy  season.  So 
we  were  advised  to  remain  at  Cape  Town  until  the 
rains  were  over  in  Rhodesia.  Mr.  Lewis  was  con- 
templating going  north  with  us  to  assist  Brother 
Engle  in  opening  the  work;  but  before  this  could  be 
accomplished,  both  he  and  Mrs.  Lewis  were  sum- 
moned north  to  Bulawayo  by  a  telegram  to  minister 
to  one  of  their  friends  there  who  was  very  sick. 

After  reaching  Bulawayo  they  immediately  sent 
a  telegram  south  telling  us  to  remain  at  Cape  Town, 
and  under  no  consideration  to  venture  into  the  in- 
terior until  the  rains  were  over.  As  if  to  emphasize 
the  message,  both  of  them,  while  attending  to  the 
sick,  were  stricken  with  fever,  and  all  were  obliged 
to  hasten  south  as  soon  as  possible.  We  also  came 
into  contact  with  some  of  the  Seventh  Day  Advent- 
ists  in  Cape  Town,  and  through  them  learned  that 


42  AFRICA 

two  of  their  missionaries  in  Rhodesia  had  just  suc- 
cumbed to  the  fever. 

From  the  illness  brought  on  at  this  time  Mr. 
Lewis  never  fully  recovered,  and  shortly  after  our 
departure  from  Cape  Town,  we  learned,  much  to 
our  sorrow,  that  he  had  been  carried  away  by  the 
disease.  We  were  often  made  to  feel,  as  Mrs.  Lewis 
expressed  it,  that  the  Lord  had  sent  them  before  us 
to  preserve  life.  Otherwise  we  would  undoubtedly 
have  gone  to  Bulawayo  at  an  earlier  date  than  we 
did  and  would  probably  have  had  to  suffer  in  con- 
sequence. We  shall  never  forget  the  great  kindness 
of  these  friends  during  the  entire  four  months  of 
our  stay  at  Cape  Town.  The  wise  counsel,  the  spir- 
itual and  financial  aid  which  they  gave,  will  ever  be 
a  green  spot  in  our  memory.  And  not  only  then, 
but  in  later  years,  Mrs.  Lewis'  home,  "  The  High- 
lands," and  her  large  heart  were  ever  open  to  our 
missionaries.  As  each  recruit  stepped  foot  on  Afri- 
ca's shores  she  was  the  first  to  welcome  him.  When 
any  needed  rest,  her  house  was  wide  open  for  any 
who  might  choose  to  come  and  rest  there.  When  a 
few  years  ago  word'  came  that  she  had  gone  to  meet 
her  Savior  Whom  she  so  much  loved,  we  all  felt 
that  we  had  indeed  lost  a  friend  that  could  not  be 
replaced. 

At  last  the  time  came  when  it  was  considered  safe 
to  move  out,  Sister  Hershey  to  Johannesburg  and 
the  rest  to  Bulawayo.  Mrs.  Lewis  had  given  us  a 
nice  large  tent,  16  x  16  feet,  which  could  be  used  as 
a  dwelling  place  while  huts  were  being  built,  and 
she  had  also  on  her  trip  north  met  some  of  the 
white  people  of  Bulawayo  who  were  ready  to  assist 


MATOPO    MISSION  43 

us.    Other  friends  at  Cape  Town  also  kindly  helped 
us  on  the  way. 

On  April  28,  1898,  we  took  the  train  at  Cape 
Town,  bound  for  Bulawayo,  1,362  miles  inland.  We 
traveled  four  days  and  four  nights  in  a  comfortable 
coach  and  reached  the  place  May  2.  The  same  jour- 
ney formerly  required  six  months  and  longer  with 
an  ox  team.  We  passed  through  only  a  few  towns 
worthy  the  name ;  Kimberley,  the  center  of  the  dia- 
mond mines,  being  the  principal  one.  Some  of  the 
country  through  which  'we  passed  looked  like  a 
desert ;  not  a  blade  of  grass  to  be  seen,  but  the  red 
sand  is  covered  with  bushes.  This  is  known  as  the 
Karroo,  and,  as  rain  seldom  falls  on  much  of  this 
land,  one  is  surprised  to  see  flocks  of  sheep  and  here 
and  there  an  ostrich  farm.  There  are  many  flat- 
topped  mountains  and  hills,  at  the  foot  of  which  one 
occasionally  catches  sight  of  a  farmhouse  with  its 
accompanying  sheep  pen.  A  letter  sent  to  America 
at  the  time  adds: 

Parts  greatly  resemble  Kansas  prairies,  while  the  last 
four  or  five  hundred  miles  of  the  journey  the  country 
looks  like  old,  deserted  orchards.  We  were  also  intro- 
duced to  African  life  in  its  primitive  state,  and  during 
the  latter  part  of  the  journey  no  white  people  were  vis- 
ible save  the  few  connected  with  the  railway  service,  but 
many  native  huts  were  to  be  seen.  Some  were  made  of 
mud,  others  formed  of  poles  covered  with  various-colored 
cloth,  forming  a  veritable  patchwork,  while  the  natives  in 
semi-nude  condition  came  crowding  about  the  car  win- 
dows, begging  for  money  and  food.  How  my  heart  bled 
for  these  poor  souls!  Although  the  railroad  was  built, 
ostensibly,  for  the  purpose  of  developing  the  commercial 
and  mining  interests  of  the  country;  yet,  as  I  looked 
upon  those  poor  natives,  I  wondered  whether  the  real 


44  AFRICA 

purpose  of  it  under  the  Providence  of  God  was  not  to 
bring  the  Gospel  to  them.  Other  missionaries  are  here 
before  us,  but  I  believe  we  are  the  first  to  make  use  of 
the  new  railroad  for  this  purpose. 


CHAPTER   FOUR 
Matabeleland 

BEFORE  proceeding  with  my  story  let  me  in- 
troduce to  my  readers  the  people  and  the 
country  to  which  we  had  come.  The  Mata- 
bele  are  a  branch  of  the  Zulu  tribe  of  Southeast 
Africa.  During  the  reign  of  the  great  and  despotic 
Zulu  King,  Tyaka,  they  revolted  under  the  leader- 
ship of  Mzilikazi,  or  Moselikatse,  and  started  north 
through  Africa,  proving  a  terror  to  the  various 
tribes  along  the  way  and  meeting  with  numerous 
hardships  and  varying  degrees  of  success.  About 
the  year  1836  found  them  in  this  country,  to  which 
they  gave  the  name  Matabeleland.  This  land,  to- 
gether with  Mashonaland,  constitutes  what  is  now 
known  as  Southern  Rhodesia. 

Here  they  established  themselves  by  ruthlessly 
slaughtering  all  who  opposed  them,  and  enslaving 
the  natives  already  in  the  country.  After  the  death 
of  Mzilikazi,  his  son,  Lobengula,  became  King.  He 
was  more  or  less  tyrannical,  like  his  father,  and  he 
lived  with  his  sixty  wives  about  two  miles  from 
what  is  now  known  as  Bulawayo — the  killing  place 
— or,  as  the  natives  often  say,  "  o  Bulawayo,"  mean- 
ing murderer.  A  rock  near  this  place  is  still  pointed 
out  as  the  place  .where  a  number  of  his  wives  met 
a  violent  death. 

This  King  Lobengula  ruled  his  people  with  a  rod 
of  iron.  The  young  men  were  all  enlisted  in  his 
45 


46  AFRICA 

army  and  the  women  and  children  left  to  carry  on 
the  work  in  the  gardens  and  kraals.  Rev.  Helm,  one 
of  the  first  missionaries  in  the  country,  said  it  was 
impossible  to  get  hold  of  the  young  men ;  and  even 
if  the  boys  did  start  to  school,  the  King  would  take 
them  for  his  own  use  as  soon  as  they  were  old 
enough.  He,  however,  never  molested  the  mission- 
aries themselves,  and  probably  considered  it  an 
honor  to  have  a  white  teacher  in  the  country ;  but, 
as  Mrs.  Helm  remarked,  they  were  careful  not  to 
offend  him. 

The  British  Charter  Company  had  obtained  some 
concessions  from  the  King  in  1889,  and,  in  the  next 
year,  Europeans  entered  the  country  to  prospect  and 
mine  the  gold.  It  was  a  foreseen  conclusion  that 
there  would  eventually  be  a  conflict  between  a  sav- 
age despot,  to  whom  many  of  the  white  people  were 
obliged  to  cringe,  and  a  civilized  people.  The  in- 
evitable reached  a  climax  in  1893,  when  war  broke 
out  between  the  King  and  the  white  people  of  the 
country.  There  were  only  a  few  white  men  in  the 
country  at  that  time,  but  assegais  and  other  native 
weapons  were  no  match  for  Maxim  guns  and  Euro- 
pean tactics.  The  King's  house  being  burnt,  he 
himself  fled  and  eventually  died  in  January,  1894, 
thus  causing  the  war  suddenly  to  come  to  an  end, 
as  there  remained  no  one  to  keep  the  forces  together. 
The  British  South  African  Company  took  posses- 
sion and  began  to  occupy  and  build  up  the  country. 

The  Matabele,  however,  did  not  consider  them- 
selves conquered,  and  many  circumstances  con- 
spired to  bring  about  a  second  conflict.  Perhaps 
the  chief  among  these  was  the  fact  that  all  the  cattle 


MATOPO   MISSION  47 

were  regarded  as  the  property  of  the  King,  although 
being  distributed  among  the  people  and  used  by 
them  as  their  own.  However,  since  the  cattle  be- 
longed to  the  King,  the  British  Company  looked  up- 
on them  as  theirs  by  right  of  conquest,  and  proceed- 
ed to  appropriate  some  of  them.  This  greatly  an- 
gered the  natives,  as  also  the  rinderpest,  which 
came  later  and  swept  off  many  of  the  remaining 
cattle.  Then  400  of  the  subject  tribes  were  armed 
and  enlisted  as  native  police ;  and  this  was  most 
galling  to  the  proud  Matabele  warriors,  that  they 
should  be  exulted  over  by  their  former  slaves.  The 
disease  among  their  cattle,  the  locust,  which  de- 
voured their  crops,  and  numerous  other  troubles 
were  all,  by  their  witch  doctors,  laid  at  the  door  of 
the  white  man.  Umlimo  (their  god)  also  affirmed 
that  their  King  was  still  alive  and  was  ready  to 
assist  them  in  gaining  their  liberty. 

This  second  conflict,  known  as  the  Matabele  Re- 
bellion of  1896,  came  very  suddenly  upon  the  4,000 
white  people,  scattered  in  various  parts  of  the  coun- 
try. No  one  seemed  to  expect  danger,  although 
there  were  several  who  had  had  a  little  warning, 
and  many  natives  who  were  working  in  Bulawayo 
were  called  home  by  their  parents.  One  boy  in 
speaking  of  the  time  said : 

"  I  was  working  in  Bulawayo  when  my  father 
sent  word  that  I  was  to  come  home.  I  did  not 
want  to  but  I  was  afraid  to  disobey.  I  was  afraid 
to  look  at  my  father,  he  looked  like  a  mad  man. 
He  said,  '  We  cannot  live  and  be  oppressed  like  this. 
We  would  rather  die  than  be  treated  as  we  are ! ' 


48  AFRICA 

"  The  rest  of  the  people,  too,  looked  just  that 
way !  " 

The  natives  rose  against  the  Europeans  and  sud- 
denly murdered  200  in  the  outlying  districts,  includ- 
ing a  number  of  women  and  children.  Some  of 
these  were  murdered  by  their  own  servants.  The 
rest  of  the  white  people  hastily  gathered  into  the 
new  town  of  Bulawayo,  while  soldiers  scoured  the 
country  in  search  of  native  troops.  A  large  num- 
ber of  the  native  police  had  gone  over  to  the  enemy, 
carrying  their  rifles  with  them,  and  a  number  of  the 
natives,  both  in  Matabeleland  and  Mashonaland, 
had  in  some  way  secured  several  thousand  firearms ; 
so  that  in  this  war  the  natives  were  much  better 
prepared. 

This  rebellion  lasted  eight  months,  and  the  na- 
tives were  finally  driven  into  the  Matopo  Hills.  In 
these,  nature's  vast  strongholds  and  caves,  all  ef- 
forts of  the  European  soldiers  to  dislodge  them 
proved  unavailing.  Here  finally  came  Mr.  Rhodes. 
unarmed,  into  the  midst  of  the  enemy's  camp  and 
made  peace  with  them.  The  tree  under  which  this 
famous  council  was  held  is  still  pointed  out  not 
many  miles  from  where  Matopo  Mission  now  is. 
We  entered  the  country  a  little  over  a  year  after 
the  close  of  the  rebellion,  while  all  the  causes  and 
events  were  still  fresh  in  the  minds  of  the  natives. 
What  is  still  more  significant,  we  were  located  in 
the  very  heart  of  these  hills  where  no  missionary 
had  yet  penetrated,  and  being  surrounded  by  many 
of  the  rebels  themselves,  we  were  able  to  glean 
much  of  the  above  history  at  first  hand.  When  we 
went  among  them  they  were  still  seething  with  dis- 


MATOPO    MISSION  49 

content  from  the  same  cause  which  led  to  the  Re- 
bellion. 

Mr.  Rhodes,  who  had  made  peace  with  these  na- 
tives, was  always  respected  and  trusted  by  them, 
and  while  he  was  no  religious  man  himself,  he  thor- 
oughly believed  in  missionary  work  among  the  peo- 
ple. His  desire  that  we  come  to  these  hills  and  his 
statement,  that  "  missionaries  are  better  than  police- 
men, and  cheaper,"  was  actuated  by  no  mercenary 
motive.  It  was  his  conviction,  borne  out  by  experi- 
ence and  by  long  years  of  contact  with  the  Africans, 
that  missionary  work  and  the  Christianization  of 
the  natives  was  the  only  solution  of  the  native  prob- 
lems. 

But  to  return  to  our  story,  we  arrived  at  Bula- 
wayo  late  in  the  evening  and  were  taken  to  the 
Royal  Hotel.  This  was  a  good,  up-to-date  hotel, 
with  an  up-to-date  African  price.  In  the  morning, 
as  we  looked  out  of  the  window,  the  first  sight  which 
greeted  our  eyes  was  a  large  African  wagon  drawn 
by  eighteen  oxen.  Except  for  this  and  similar 
sights  we  could  easily  have  imagined  that  we  were 
in  an  American  town,  for  this  place,  with  broad 
streets  and  thriving  business,  is  said  to  have  been 
patterned  somewhat  after  American  cities.  My 
impressions  of  the  town  and  vicinity  written  at  the 
time  were  as  follows: 

Bulawayo  is  a  modern  wonder,  an  oasis  of  civiliza- 
tion in  the  midst  of  a  desert  of  barbarism  and  heathen- 
dom. It  has  nearly  3,000  inhabitants,  and  has  been  built 
since  1894.  Before  that  time  Lobengula,  the  great  Mata- 
bele  King,  held  sway  about  two  miles  from  here  at  the 
place  where  the  Government  House  now  stands.  This 
place  reminds  one  of  the  booming  Kansas  towns  of  a  few 


50  AFRICA 

years  ago,  but  it  is  hundreds  of  miles  from  any  other 
civilized  place,  and  is  well  built  of  brick  and  iron,  has 
good  stores  of  all  kinds,  five  churches,  public  library, 
electric  lights  and  telephone,  not  only  in  town,  but  also 
extending  to  various  police  forts  in  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, but  no  public  schools.  There  are  comfortable  riding 
cabs,  or  traps,  drawn  by  horses  or  mules,  but  the  traffic 
is  carried  on  by  heavy  carts  or  still  heavier  wagons  drawn 
by  a  large  number  of  oxen  or  donkeys.  The  manual  labor 
is  done  chiefly  by  the  native  boys,  the  white  people  con- 
sidering it  beneath  their  dignity  to  do  anything  a  native 
can  do. 

The  surrounding  country  is  very  pretty  and  level,  and 
one  can  see  an  abundance  of  the  "  golden  sands "  men- 
tioned by  the  poet,  and  even  gold  sands  are  not  wanting, 
but  I  am  sorry  to  say  that  the  "  sunny  fountains  "  rolling 
down  them  are  very  few,  especially  at  this  season  of  the 
year  when  there  are  seven  months  of  drought! 

This  for  Bulawayo  in  1898  and  first  impressions. 

We  remained  at  the  hotel  only  two  days.  Our 
tent  and  the  other  goods  had  not  yet  arrived,  but  a 
gentleman,  to  whom  we  had  a  letter  of  introduction 
through  Mrs.  Lewis,  most  kindly  offered  the  use  of 
his  house  and  furniture  for  two  weeks,  which  offer 
was  gratefully  accepted.  Before  the  end  of  that 
time  our  tent  had  arrived,  and  this  being  placed  on 
a  vacant  lot  furnished  ample  protection  for  that 
season  of  the  year. 

Bulawayo,  being  of  such  recent  growth  and  being 
surrounded  by  pagan  tribes,  would  have  afforded 
abundant  opportunity  for  missionary  work.  Daily 
these  raw  natives  would  come  to  our  tent  door  to 
sell  wood  or  other  articles ;  and  we  longed  to  tell 
them  something  of  a  Savior's  love,  had  we  been 
able  to  speak  to  them.  One  morning  thirteen  na- 


MATOPO   MISSION  51 

tive  women,  each  with  a  great  load  of  wood  on  her 
head,  arranged  themselves,  smiling  and  expectant, 
before  the'door  of  our  tent.  We  could  only  smile 
in  return,  that  one  touch  of  nature's  language  which 
is  akin  the  world  over.  We  were  thankful  that  we 
could  do  so  much,  but  back  of  the  smile  was  a  heavy 
heart  that  we  could  do  so  little. 

During  the  two  months  we  remained  at  Bulawayo 
efforts  were  made  to  secure  a  suitable  location 
among  the  Matopo  Hills.  Mr.  Rhodes'  letter  had 
been  delivered  to  the  government  officials,  and  they 
generously  undertook  to  assist  in  locating  the  work. 
The  first  place  to  which  they  took  Brother  Engle — 
the  one  recommended  by  Mr.  Rhodes — was  found 
to  have  been  surveyed  by  a  private  individual.  They 
then  made  another  selection,  about  thirty  miles 
southeast  of  Bulawayo,  the  place  now  known  as 
Matopo  Mission,  and  they  agreed  to  give  us  here  a 
Mission  Reservation  of  3,000  acres.  The  officials, 
as  well  as  other  Europeans  in  Bulawayo,  rendered 
us  much  assistance.  In  addition  to  these  the  Sev- 
enth Day  Adventist  missionaries  also  greatly 
helped  us  on  the  way.  These  had  a  mission  station 
about  thirty  miles  west  of  Bulawayo,  and  about 
fifty  miles  from  the  place  selected  for  us ;  and  while 
we  were  waiting  in  Bulawayo,  they  kindly  took  out, 
at  different  times,  Brother  and  Sister  Engle  and 
Sister  Heise,  for  a  visit  to  their  station. 

The  time  came  for  us  to  move  out  to  our 
location  among  the  hills,  and  the  question  of  how 
we  should  get  ourselves  and  our  goods  to  the  place 
was  becoming  a  serious  one.  Transportation,  like 
everything  else  in  the  interior  of  Africa,  was  exceed- 


52  AFRICA 

ingfy  expensive.  In  this  emergency  Mr.  Anderson, 
of  the  Seventh  Day  Adventist  Mission,  offered  to 
come  that  long  way  with  his  donkey  wagon  and 
move  us  for  half  the  sum  required  by  a  regular 
transport  driver. 

It  is  difficult  for  the  reader  to  form  any  concep- 
tion of  what  these  various  expressions  of  kindness 
along  the  way,  coming  so  unexpectedly  from  entire 
strangers,  meant  to  that  little  band  of  missionaries 
out  in  the  heart  of  Africa.  Even  as  I  write  these 
things,  after  a  lapse  of  sixteen  years,  and  live  over 
the  events  of  that  time,  tears  of  joy  unbidden  come 
and  my  heart  wells  up  in  gratitude  as  I  again  recall 
these  evidences  of  the  wonderful  "  faithfulness  of  a 
faithful  God." 

We  had  been  ignorant  of  our  destination  when 
we  left  the  American  shore,  and  even  more  ignorant 
of  the  cost  of  living  in  the  interior  of  Africa ;  so 
that,  by  the  time  supplies  had  been  purchased  to 
take  along  to  the  hills,  the  money  on  hand  was 
about  exhausted.  We  knew  not  how  long  a  time 
would  elapse  before  a  fresh  supply  could  reach  us. 
Knowing,  too,  that  the  Church  had  very  little  ex- 
perience in  foreign  missionary  work,  one  could  not 
fail  at  times  to  be  a  little  anxious.  Thanks,  however, 
to  the  wisdom,  ability,  and  promptness  displayed 
by  the  old  fathers  who  formed  the  Mission  Board, 
and  to  their  support,  backed  up  by  the  Church; 
as  soon  as  conditions  were  understood  at  home 
means  were  forthcoming  and  we  were  never  allowed 
to  be  in  want. 


CHAPTER    FIVE 
The  Opening  of  the  Work 

We  must  remember  that  it  was  not  by  interceding  for 
the  world  in  glory  that  Jesus  saved  it.  He  gave  Himself. 
Our  prayers  for  the  evangelization  of  the  world  are  but 
a  bitter  irony  so  long  as  we  only  give  of  our  superfluity 
and  draw  back  before  the  sacrifice  of  ourselves. — M. 
Francois  Coillard. 

WE  heartily  echo  the  words  of  thic  sainted 
missionary  to  the  Barotse,  but  we  believe 
that  the  thought  uppermost  in  the  heart 
of  each  of  the  four  waiting  ones  at  Bulawayo  was 
not  sacrifice  but  privilege,  on  that  July  morning,  so 
long  ago,  when  the  command  to  go  forward  was 
given.     We  were  soon  to  reach  our  destination,  the 
place  to  which  we  had  started  from  New  York  over 
seven  months  previously.     An  account  of  this  trip 
written  at  the  time  reads  somewhat  as  follows : 

We  left  Bulawayo  on  the  evening  of  July  4  and  traveled 
three  nights  and  two  days  before  the  mission  valley  was 
reached.  The  nights  were  cool  and  a  bright  moon  lighted 
up  the  way,  so  that  traveling  went  better  at  night  than 
during  the  heat  of  the  day.  The  wagon  was  about  eight- 
een feet  long,  very  strong  and  heavy,  and  was  drawn  by 
eighteen  donkeys.  These  were  led  by  one  native  boy, 
while  another  .with  a  long  whip  was  doing  the  driving. 
The  load  of  about  three  tons  was  very  heavy — too  heavy, 
in  fact,  for  a  part  of  the  way.  Donkeys  can  travel  only 
two  miles  an  hour  on  good  roads  and  on  poor  roads  it 
sometimes  requires  two  hours  to  go  one  mile.  Occasion- 
53 


54  AFRICA 

ally  we  stopped  from  two  to  four  hours  to  let  the  donkeys 
rest  and  graze. 

During  such  times  we  would  build  fire  on  the  veldt,  and 
cook  and  eat  our  food;  or,  if  it  were  night,  we  would 
wrap  our  blankets  about  us,  take  our  pillows,  and  lie  down 
in  the  shelter  of  some  friendly  bush  and  sleep.  Mother 
Engle  usually  preferred  the  shelter  of  the  tent  on  the 
back  of  the  wagon,  although  the  place  was  too  much 
crowded  for  her  to  rest  comfortably.  Since  the  load  was 
so  heavy  we  spent  a  great  deal  of  the  time  walking. 
We  would  walk  ahead  of  the  wagon  for  a  distance,  then 
sit  down  and  rest  until  the  wagon  reached  us.  Only  two 
of  three  settlers'  houses  were  visible,  and  no  native  kraals, 
and  we  were  informed  that  as  soon  as  the  white  man 
makes  a  road,  the  natives  move  away  from  it. 

After  twenty  miles  of  travel  we  came  to  Fort  Usher. 
At  this  place  there  reside  an  English  magistrate  and  a 
number  of  white  police.  Here  we  were  kindly  received 
and  given  a  native  guide  for  the  rest  of  the  journey.  We 
now  left  the  government  road  and  plunged  into  the  hills. 
The  wagon  went  along  another  five  miles  with  very  little 
difficulty.  Then  it  mired  on  going  through  a  swampy 
place,  one  side  sinking  nearly  to  the  hubs  of  the  wheels, 
and  further  progress  was  impossible.  All  put  forth  every 
effort  to  extricate  it  but  to  no  avail.  What  was  to  be  done? 

While  we  were  in  this  dilemma,  the  Chief  of  the  natives 
in  this  part  of  the  country,  Hluganisa  by  name,  with  some 
natives  came  to  meet  us  and  bid  us  welcome.  They  gave 
us  a  very  friendly  reception,  and  then  joined  in  to  assist  in 
extricating  the  wagon,  but  without  success.  Mr.  Ander- 
son, who  could  speak  the  native  language,  explained  to 
the  chief  who  we  were  and  our  object  in  coming,  and  he 
promised  to  meet  us  at  the  mission  site  the  next  day,  as 
it  was  now  evening. 

Mr.  Anderson  then  took  our  party  forward  a  little  dis- 
tance to  a  dry  spot,  where  we  rested  during  the  night. 
He  and  his  native  boys  returned  to  the  wagon,  and,  remov- 
ing the  greater  part  of  the  load,  carried  it  beyond  the 
marshy  place.  The  donkeys  were  then  able  to  pull  out 


MATOPO   MISSION  55 

the  wagon.  It  is  needless  to  add  that  Mr.  Anderson  and 
his  boys  were  extremely  tired  after  this  laborious  task 
and  were  glad  to  snatch  a  little  rest.  Even  under  such 
circumstances  they  did  not  indulge  long  in  the  much- 
needed  rest,  but  at  an  early  hour  were  again  ready  for  the 
journey.  Those  of  us  who  had  enjoyed  a  good  night's 
rest  were  also  aroused,  and  we  started  on  our  last  trek 
into  the  hills.  We  reached  the  valley,  which  is  to  be  our 
home,  on  the  morning  of  July  7. 

This  valley  is  surrounded  by  immense  granite  hills  and 
boulders,  some  of  which  cover  hundreds  of  acres,  so  that 
at  first  sight  the  rocks  seem  to  constitute  the  chief  part  of 
the  country,  but  a  closer  inspection  showed  us  to  what 
a  beautiful  place  God  had  led  us  for  His  work.  There, 
spread  out  before  our  eyes,  was  a  beautiful  rolling  valley 
of  rich,  dark  earth,  well  supplied  with  an  abundance  of 
fresh  water.  It  was  stated  that  the  "  sunny  fountains " 
are  rare  in  this  part  of  Africa,  and  that  is  true.  Here, 
however,  in  this  beautiful  valley,  in  the.  heart  of  Matopo 
Hills,  are  sparkling  fountains  of  beautiful  water,  crystal 
clear,  oozing  from  under  the  surface  of  the  rocks,  and 
flowing  down  the  valley.  Some  contain  delicate  mosses 
and  pretty  water-lilies,  and  surpass  the  Michigan  lakes  in 
transparency. 

In  the  meantime  the  Chief  had  sent  word  to  the  head- 
men of  the  various  kraals  to  meet  us.  So,  in  the  morning, 
obedient  to  the  call  of  their  superior,  they  came  and  sat  in 
a  semi-circle  while  their  chief  addressed  them  (Mr.  An- 
derson interpreting  for  our  benefit) : 

"  These  are  not  like  other  white  people." 

The  deep-toned  voices  of  the  headmen  responded  in 
unison,  "  Yes,  my  lord." 

He  continued,  "  They  have  come  to  teach  you  and  your 
children  and  to  do  you  good." 

Again  came  the  response,  "  Yes,  my  lord." 

"  Now  do  what  you  can  for  them  and  help  them." 

And  again  the  same  response  was  repeated. 

One  may  imagine  how  that  impressed  us.  Here  we 
are,  far  from  other  white  people,  among  a  class  of  na- 


56  AFRICA 

tives  who  have  never  been  subdued  by  the  English  sol- 
diers. They  are  kept  in  subjection  only  by  forts  of  police 
stationed  among  the  hills,  the  nearest  being  ten  miles 
distant.  Yet  these  people  recognized  us  at  once  as  their 
friends  and  received  us  with  kindness  far  above  what  we 
dared  expect.  Our  hearts  overflow  with  thankfulness  to 
Him  who  rules  the  hearts  of  men. 

The  Chief  and  one  or  two  other  natives  went  with 
us  to  look  up  a  location  on  which  to  pitch  the  tent 
and  build  huts.  The  tent  was  finally  pitched  under 
the  shade  of  a  large  umkuni  tree,  Mr.  Anderson 
returned  to  his  station,  and  we  were  left  without  an 
interpreter,  and  with  no  practical  knowledge  of  mis- 
sion work.  We  had,  however,  a  Great  Teacher,  and 
we  were  willing  to  be  taught. 

Both  Matabele  and  their  subject  races,  known  as 
Amahole,  live  in  the  Matopo  Hills.  The  majority 
of  them  are  not  black,  but  a  chocolate  brown,  and 
some  have  features  resembling  white  people.  They 
are  generally  large,  well-formed,  and  intelligent- 
looking.  They  are  more  or  less  rude  in  manner, 
uncouth  in  appearance,  and  wear  little  or  no  clothing 
except  the  loin  cloth.  This  in  the  men  usually  con- 
sists of  the  skin  of  small  animals,  and  among  the 
women  a  short  skirt  of  cloth  or  skins.  Over  the 
upper  part  of  the  body  is  sometimes  thrown  a  larger 
piece  of  cloth. 

Among  those  that  gathered  about  us  that  first  day 
were  some  who  had  been  quite  active  in  the  late 
rebellion.  As  we  gained  their  confidence,  they  often 
pointed  out  to  us  the  caves  where  they  stored  their 
grain,  and  where  they  themselves  hid  during  that 
terrible  time.  A  year  of  famine  had  followed  the 


MATOPO   MISSION  57 

war,  and  some  had  starved  to  death.  At  the  time 
we  entered  upon  the  work  there  was  a  great  deal  of 
destitution  all  about  us ;  for  some  had  not  yet  been 
able  to  grow  grain,  and  they  had  no  flocks  to  fall 
back  upon  as  they  usually  had  in  time  of  grain 
famine. 

Many  of  the  white  people  in  the  country  and  in 
Bulawayo  were  continually  talking  about  and  ex- 
pecting another  uprising.  They  looked  for  it  to 
come  from  these  Matopo  Hill  natives,  and  some 
sought  to  warn  us  not  to  venture  into  this, .  the 
enemy's  stronghold.  We,  however,  living  among 
them  from  day  to  day,  saw  no  cause  for  fear. 

The  natives  came  to  see  us  in  large  numbers. 
Sometimes  fifty. wouki  appear  in  one  day  and  crowd 
around  the  door  of  our  tent,  desiring  to  have  a  good 
view,  of  the  .newcomers  and  their  belongings.  Many 
of  them,  especially  the  women  and  children,  had 
never  seen  a  white  person  before,  or  at  most  a  white 
woman.  Some  three  or  four  families  had  heard  a 
little  of  Jesus,  but  the  great  majority  knew  absolute- 
ly nothing  of  the  Gospel. 

Our  ignorance,  both  of  the  language  and  the  peo- 
ple, led  to  many  blunders,  both  ludicrous  and  other- 
wise. The  desire  to  help  them  and  to  show  them 
that  we  were  their  friends  caused  them  often  to 
take  advantage  of  our  kindness.  We  soon  learned 
that  the  African  is  not  so  much  interested  in  the 
things  that  are  for  the  good  of  his  soul  as  in  that 
which  ministers  to  his  body  and  appetite.  It  was 
so  difficult  to  know  just  what  to  do  at  all  times,  for 
they  were  destitute  of  nearly  everything  which  we 
considered  necessary  for  comfort.  They  were  con- 


58 


AFRICA 


firmed  beggars,  and  the  more  they  received  the 
more  they  wanted.  The  missionary  opens  his  Bible, 
and  reads,  "  He  that  hath  two  coats,  let  him  impart 
to  him  that  hath  none ;  and  he  that  hath  meat  let 
him  do  likewise  " ;  he  then  gets  down  on  his  knees 
and  prays  that  the  Lord  might  help  the  poor  souls 


Hut   Built  by    H.    Frances   Davidson   and   Alice   Heise 
at    Matopo. 

about  him,  but  he  often  feels  that  his  prayers  do 
not  ascend  very  high.  What  he  needs  to  do  is  to 
get  up  and  answer  his  own  prayers. 

When  we  made  a  contract  with  them  for  work, 
and  told  them  what  pay  they  would  receive,  they 
always  wanted  more  than  the  contract  called  for 
when  the  time  came  to  settle.  This  is  characteristic 
of  the  native  in  dealing  with  the  white  man.  He 
sees  that  the  other  has  clothing  and  many  comforts 
of  which  he  is  deprived,  hence  concludes  that  the 
pockets  of  the  white  man  are  full  of  money.  Socialist 


MATOPO    MISSION  59 

that  he  naturally  is,  he  thinks  that  the  property 
should  be  equally  distributed.  It  never  occurs  to 
him  that  his  laziness  and  shiftlessness  have  much  to 
do  with  his  destitution.  In  fact,  that  thought  does 
not  generally  occur  to  the  missionary  when  he  goes 
among  the  heathen  for  the  first  time,  unless  he  is 
with  some  one  who  understands  the  situation. 

It  is  necessary  to  make  the  natives  understand  at 
times  that  the  kindness  of  even  the  missionary  has 
a  limit.  One  day  I  was  in  the  little  straw  shed 
which  served  as  a  kitchen,  and  was  endeavoring  to 
bake  bread.  As  usual  a  number  of  people  were 
about  the  door,  and  one  man,  taking  advantage  of 
my  kindness,  came  in  and  sat  down  by  the  stove  in 
front  of  the  bake-oven  door.  He  made  no  effort  in 
the  least  to  move  away  when  I  tried  to  look  into  the 
oven  door.  I  bore  it  for  some  time,  not  wishing  to 
be  rude  to  him,  and  not  knowing  how  to  ask  him  in 
a  polite  way  to  move.  Suddenly  it  dawned  upon 
me  that  the  proper  native  word  was  suka.  So  I 
made  use  of  the  word  and  told  him  to  suka.  He 
looked  up  in  surprise  and  repeated  the  word  to 
know  if  he  had  correctly  understood,  but  he  moved. 
Afterwards,  in  looking  for  the  word  in  my  diction- 
ary, I  found  that  it  was  a  word  often  in  the 
mouth  of  the  white  man  when  addressing  a  native. 
It  really  meant  a  rough  "  Get  out  of  this."  So  the 
look  of  mild  reproach  in  the  eyes  of  the  native  was 
accounted  for.  Some  of  the  softness  in  the  mission- 
ary, too,  soon  wears  off  as  he  is  obliged  to  deal  with 
the  native  from  day  to  day.  He  finds  that  it  is  nec- 
essary to  make  the  native  understand  their  relation 
one  to  another  as  teacher  and  pupil. 


60  AFRICA 

Living  in  a  tent  during  the  dry  and  healthy  sea- 
son is  not  unpleasant  in  such  a  climate,  except  that 
one  suffers  from  the  heat  by  day  and  the  cold  by 
night. 

Matopo  Mission  is  located  about  20y2°  south  lati- 
tude and  29°  east  longitude.  It  is  5,000  feet  above 
sea  level,  so  that,  although  it  is  within  the  tropics, 
it  has  a  delightful  and  salubrious  climate  the  entire 
year.  From  the  middle  of  November  to  the  middle 
of  April  is  what  is  known  as  the  rainy  season.  The 
rest  of  the  year  rain  seldom  falls.  One  cannot  live 
in  a  tent  all  the  year,  but  must  provide  better  shelter 
for  the  rainy  season.  So  hut  building  occupied  the 
first  few  months.  We  had  no  wagon  and  no  oxen, 
nothing  but  two  little  donkeys,  which  had  been 
brought  out  with  us  from  Bulawayo,  and  we  did 
not  know  how  to  make  the  best  use  of  native  help. 
The  poles  used  in  the  construction  of  the  huts  were 
cut  and  carried  to  the  place  of  building  by  natives. 

As  the  manner  of  building  was  quite  foreign  to 
an  American,  Brother  Engle  took  occasion  to  exam- 
ine other  huts,  built  by  Europeans,  so  that  he  was 
enabled  to  build  very  good  ones  for  the  mission.  He 
was  alone  and,  to  make  the  work  lighter,  we  women 
assisted,  and  used  hammer,  saw,  and  trowel,  brought 
stones  for  building  chimneys,  raked  grass,  and  as- 
sisted in  thatching.  .The  huts  are  built  somewhat  as 
follows : 

A  trench  about  fifteen  inches  deep  is  dug  the  size 
and  shape  of  the  desired  hut.  In  this  are  placed, 
near  together,  poles  from  the  forest,  space  being 
allowed  for  doors  and  windows  and  sometimes  for 
fireplace.  The  poles  are  cut  out  so  as  to  extend 


MATOPO   MISSION  61 

about  eight  feet  above  ground.  Large  ones  are 
sawed  lengthwise  for  door  posts  and  window  frames. 
Some  flexible  poles  are  nailed  around  the  top  and 
about  halfway  up  the  side,  so  that  the  walls  of  the 
hut  are  firmly  fastened  together.  Longer  poles  are 
then  used  as  rafters,  these  being  firmly  fastened  to 
the  walls  and  nailed  together  at  the  top.  Small, 
flexible  ones  are  also  used  as  lath  to  fasten  the 
rafters  together  and  upon  which  to  tie  the  grass  in 
thatching.  The  grass  used  for  this  purpose  grows 
in  abundance  among  these  rocks,  and  sometimes 
reaches  the  height  of  eight  feet.  The  women  cut 
this  and  bring  it  in  bundles,  glad  to  exchange  it  for 
a  little  salt.  It  is  first  combed  by  means  of  spikes 
driven  through  a  board.  It  is  then  divided  into 
small  bundles;  the  lower  ends  being  placed  evenly 
together,  and  the  bundles  tied  closely  together  on 
the  lath  with  tarred  rope.  The  next  layer  is  placed 
over  this  like  shingles,  so  as  to  cover  the  place  of 
tying.  When  completed  the  thickness  of  grass  on 
the  eaves  of  the  roof  is  from  four  to  ten  inches. 
Then  follows  the  plastering.  The  mud  or  plaster  is 
made  from  earth  which  had  been  worked  over  by 
white  ants.  This,  pounded  fine  and  mixed  with 
water,  makes  an  excellent  plaster,  and  when  placed 
on  the  walls  it  soon  dries  and  becomes  very  hard. 
The  native  women  put  this  on  the  outside  with  their 
hands,  as  the  walls  are  too  uneven  to  allow  the  use 
of  a  trowel.  Similar  earth,  mixed  with  sand,  is  used 
as  mortar  in  building  with  brick  and  stone.  The 
floors  also  are  of  this  earth  pounded  hard  and  pol- 
ished. 

The  windows  have  either  small  panes  of  glass 


62  AFRICA 

or  muslin  stretched  on  a  frame,  and  the  doors 
boast  of  imported  timber  brought  from  Bulawayo. 
Each  hut  is  about  as  large  as  an  average-sized  room. 
It  is  difficult  to  make  them  larger  on  acount  of  the 
scarcity  of  suitable  material  in  this  part  of  the 
country.  The  walls  are  whitewashed  on  the  inside, 
and  some  have  a  white  muslin  ceiling.  Much  of  the 
furniture  is  of  our  own  manufacture  and  is  made  of 
boxes  or  of  native  poles  draped  with  calico. 

When  completed  the  rooms  looked  quite  cozy 
and  comfortable,  so  that  we  felt  thankful  for  such 
pleasant  homes  in  connection  with  our  work.  The 
first  year  there  were  four  of  such  huts  built,  kitchen, 
dining-hut,  and  two  sleeping-rooms. 

Dealing  with  the  natives  while  building  these  was 
not  always  easy.  Sometimes  difficulties  arose 
through  not  being  able  to  make  the  natives  under- 
stand, so  that  we  could  not  always  place  the  blame 
on  them.  When  grass  was  wanted  for  the  thatch- 
ing a  contract  was  entered  into  with  one  of  the  head- 
men to  furnish  one  hundred  bundles  for  five  shillings 
($1.20).  The  grass  was  brought  until  there  was 
about  half  the  specified  amount,  then  the  pay  was 
demanded.  This  was  of  course  refused.  The  man 
brought  a  little  more  and  then  he  stoutly  affirmed 
that  he  had  fulfilled  his  part  of  the  contract.  After 
considerable  delay  and,  being  harassed  by  the  head- 
man, we  finally  paid  him.  After  all,  he  may  have 
been  honest  in  the  affair  and  a  mistake  may  have 
been  made  in  the  beginning;  for  the  word  for  one 
hundred  and  that  for  much  were  similar  except  in 
the  prefix.  He  may  have  understood  that  he  was 
to  bring  much  grass,  and  he  certainly  did  that. 


MATOPO   MISSION 


63 


Again,  when  the  first  hut  was  to  be  plastered, 
arrangements  were  made  with  certain  women  to 
plaster  it  for  a  stated  amount.  They  brought  a 
number  of  others  along  to  help  them  plaster;  at}d 
when  pay  day  came,  the  total  amount  of  pay,  de- 
manded was  about  double  the  original  agreement. 
There  was  such  a  noisy,  unpleasant  demonstration 


Matopo    Mission — March,    1899. 

that  day,  that  we  learned  our  lesson,  and  we  were 
very  careful  so  to  arrange  matters  that  the  difficulty 
would  not  occur  again. 

Our  living  at  the  time  was  of  the  simplest.  Near- 
ly all  kinds  of  eatables  could  be  procured  in  Bula- 
wayo ;  but  they  were  very  expensive,  and  there  was 
no  way  of  bringing  them  out  except  by  native  car- 
riers, or  by  trusting  to  the  friendly  assistance  of  the 


64  AFRICA 

white  traders  at  Fort  Usher.  Sometimes  it  fell  to 
the  Elder's  lot  to  walk  the  thirty  miles  to  Bulawayo 
in  order  to  purchase  supplies.  There  was  no  need, 
however,  for  us  to  do,  like  many  a  missionary  in 
the  wilds  of  Africa  has  done,  deprive  ourselves  of 
wheat  bread  and  ordinary  groceries.  These  we  al- 
ways had,  but  we  were  more  economical  in  their 
use  than  we  would  have  been  at  home.  We  had  no 
milk,  except  tinned  milk,  no  butter,  and  very  little 
meat,  and  no  gun  to  procure  game.  But  we  had 
chicken  and  could  occasionally  procure  meat  from 
the  natives.  Of  course  at  first  there  were  no  vege- 
tables to  be  had,  except  such  as  we  could  at  times 
procure  from  the  natives — corn,  sweet  potatoes, 
pumpkins,  and  peanuts,  but  these  were  scarce. 

Elder  Engle,  alive  to  the  value  of  the  soil  and  the 
need  of  wholesome  food,  at  once  secured  fruit  trees 
and  set  them  out,  including  a  number  of  orange 
trees.  He  also  bought  a  small  plow  and  with  the 
two  donkeys  broke  land  and  planted  vegetables. 
One  native,  who  continually  stood  by  us  during 
those  early  days,  was  Mapipa,  our  nearest  neighbor. 
He  was  a  powerfully-built  Matabele  and  reminded 
one  of  the  giant  of  Gath ;  for  he  had  six  fingers  on 
each  hand  and  six  toes  on  each  foot.  He  had  been 
quite  active  in  the  Rebellion  and  was  wounded  in 
one  of  the  battles.  He  could  always  be  depended 
upon  in  work,  and  Brother  Engle  greatly  appreciat- 
ed his  assistance. 

Perhaps  some  one  who  reads  these  lines  may 
wonder  whether  building,  farming,  and  such  man- 
ual labor  is  missionary  work.  Did  not  the  Great 
Missionary,  according  to  all  accounts — I  say  it  in 


MATOPO    MISSION  65 

all  reverence — take  an  apprenticeship  in  the  carpen- 
ter's shop  where  He  "  increased  in  wisdom  and 
stature  and  in  favor  with  God  and  man  "?  Did  not 
the  Apostle  Paul,  undoubtedly  the  greatest  of  His 
followers,  unite  tent-making  with  his  missionary 
work?  Should  then  we,  such  feeble  imitations,  be- 
little manual  labor,  even  though  it  falls  to  our  lot 
as  missionaries?  Any  one  going  to  the  mission  field 
should  not,  if  he  is  to  be  successful,  decide  in  his 
own  mind  that  he  is  going  to  do  certain  things,  he 
should  be  willing  to  do  whatever  the  Lord  gives  him 
to  do,  of  spiritual,  intellectual,  or  physical  labors. 
There  are  so  many  sides  to  missionary  work,  and 
who  can  tell  which  will  result  in  the  greatest  good? 
To  preach  Christ  and  lift  Him  up  that  others  may 
see  and  accept  Him  is  undoubtedly  the  central 
thought  of  the  Great  Commission.  The  ways  of 
exalting  Him,  however,  are  so  many  and  so  various. 
Christ  must  be  lived  among  the  people  before  He 
can  in  truth  be  preached  to  them.  The  heathen  of 
Africa  cannot  read  the  Bible,  but  they  can  and  do 
continually  read  the  lives  of  those  sent  among  them. 
If  these  do  not  correspond  to  the  Word  read  and 
preached  among  them,  they  are  keen  to  discern  and 
judge  accordingly.  If  the  Christ-life  is  lived  before 
their  eyes,  day  by  day,  many  will  eventually  yield 
their  hearts  to  Him,  even  though  they  may  for  a 
time  resist. 


CHAPTER    SIX 
Educational  and  Evangelistic  Work 

THE  natives  were  eager  to  see  inside  the  new 
huts.  When  they  had  an  opportunity  to  look 
at  the  whitewashed  walls  and  the  homemade 
furniture,  they  stood  spellbound,  and  the  first  word 
that  broke  from  their  lips  was '" Muehle"  (pretty). 

They  had  another  and  more  personal  interest  in 
seeing  the  huts  completed.  They  had  been  told 
that,  as  soon  as  the  goods  were  moved  out  of  the 
tent,  school  would  be  opened.  Both  large  and  small 
were  exceedingly  eager  to  learn,  or  at  least  they 
thought  so.  They  had  never  seen  books,  and  writ- 
ing was  like  magic  to  them.  To  put  down  some 
characters  on  paper  and  from  those  to  spell  out  their 
names  when  they  next  visited  the  mission  was  little 
less  than  witchcraft.  Both  old  and  young  like  to 
be  known.  They  are.  pleased  if  their  missionary 
pronounces  their  name  and  seems  to  know  them 
when  they  come  a  second  time. 

School  opened  October  11.  The  first  boy  to 
come  bright  and  early  was  Matshuba,  together  with 
two  of  Mapita's  girls.  This  little  boy,  then  about 
thirteen  years  old,  had  been  a  very  interested  spec- 
tator of  all  that  occurred  from  the  time  the  mission 
opened.  Day  after  day  he  would  be  on  hand,  and 
his  bright  eyes  and  active  mind  took  knowledge  of 
everything  that  was  said  or  done.  His  father, 
66 


MATOPO    MISSION  67 

Mpisa,  then  dead,  had  been  one  of  the  most  trusted 
witch' doctors  of  the  King,  and  had  been  held  in 
great  respect  by  all  of  the  natives  in  that  part  of  the 
country.  This  boy  was  very  eager  for  school,  and 
the  first  morning  he  and  Mapita's  girls  begged  us 
to  allow  only  the  Matabele  to  attend  school,  and 
not  the  Amahole,  or  subject  races.  This  furnished 
an  excellent  opportunity  of  teaching  them  that  God 
is  no  Respecter  of  persons. 

The  first  morning  of  school  twelve  bright-looking 
boys  and  girls  entered  the  tent  and  sat  down  on  the 
floor,  curious  to  know  what  school  was  like.  It 
was  a  momentous  time.  It  was  the  beginning  of  a 
work  the  result  o'f  which  human  eye  could  not  fore- 
see. How  the  teacher,  who  had  often  stood  before 
a  far  larger  and  more  inspiring-looking  school  in  a 
civilized  land,  trembled  as  she  stood  there  before 
those  twelve  little  savages  in  the  heart  of  Africa ! 
She  knew  that  those  bright  eyes  were  reading  her 
thoughts,  and  realized  that  she  came  so  far  short 
of  the  "  measure  of  the  stature  of  the  fullness  of 
Christ."  The  special  burden  of  the  prayer  that 
morning  was  that,  as  these  dear  souls  learned  to 
read  the  Word,  the  Light  might  enter  their  hearts 
and  they  yield  themselves  to  God. 

The  second  day  eight  more  were  enrolled,  and  the 
third  day  fourteen,  and  by  the  end  of  the  month 
there  were  forty  in  all.  Sister  Heise  and  I  were 
kept  busy  during  school  hours  as  the  pupils  were 
taught  to  sew  as  well  as  to  read  and  write.  Cleanli- 
ness is  a  rare  virtue  with  them,  so  they  were  told  to 
wash  before  coming  to  school.  As  new  ones  entered 
the  school  the  admonition  was  repeated,  with  the 


68  AFRICA 

statement  that  we  wash  every  morning.  Mapita's 
little  daughter,  Sibongamanzi,  with  shining  black 
face,  which  showed  that  she  had  been  heeding  the 
command,  looked  up  brightly  and  said,  "  Yes,  but 
you  are  white  and  we  are  black."  She  evidently  had 
thought  that,  if  she  washed  every  morning,  she  too 
would  become  white,  but  she  had  concluded  it  to  be 
a  hopeless  task.  Mr.  Anderson  said  that  some  of 
their  children  thought  that  if  they  ate  the  food  of 
white  people,  they  too  would  become  white. 

This,  our  first  schoolroom,  was  very  primitive.  It 
consisted  of  a  tent  16  x  16  feet.  In  front  there  was 
a  box  which  served  as  a  teachers'  desk  and  as  a  re- 
ceptacle for  slates,  pencils,  paper,'  books,  and  sew- 
ing. Other  boxes  served  for  teachers'  chairs.  There 
were  two  easels  made  of  poles ;  one  supported  the 
blackboard  and  the  other  the  charts.  The  black- 
board consisted  of  a  few  small  boards  nailed  to- 
gether and  painted  black,  and  the  charts  were  of 
cardboard,  18  x  24  inches  in  size.  There  were  ten 
of  them  printed  on  both  sides  with  syllables,  and 
Tebele  words  and  sentences.  These  had  been  print- 
ed by  homemade  stencils  and  pen,  and  had  occupied 
our  leisure  time  while  we  were  hut-building.  The 
floor  of  the  tent  was  covered  with  straw,  and  the 
pupils  sat  on  this  without  seats  or  desks.  They 
knew  nothing  of  the  comforts  of  the  schoolroom  in 
civilized  lands  and  thought  they  were  well  supplied. 

Since  we  had  no  primer  at  the  time,  the  Gospel  of 
St.  John  was  given  to  them  as  a  textbook  when  they 
had  finished  the  charts.  To  enable  them  to  read 
and  understand  the  Word  of  God  was  the  aim  of 
the  school  work  and  the  Bible  the  Textbook 


MATOPO    MISSION  69 

throughout.  After  they  had  learned  to  write  the 
letters  of  the  alphabet,  their  copy  usually  was  a 
verse  from  the  Scriptures.  They  were  also  taught 
to  memorize  certain  portions  in  connection  with  the 
daily  worship,  and  hymn  singing. 

The  pupils  compare  very  favorably  with  white 
children  in  their  ability  to  learn,  but  few  o.f  them 
come  regularly  to  school.  To  most  of  them  school 
is  just  a  side  issue,  some  place  to  go  when  there  is 
nothing  else  to  be  done.  Some  have  an  idea  that 
they  can  learn  to  read  in  about  a  month,  and  when 
they  find  that  it  requires  months  of  weary,  patient 
effort  at  meaningless  characters,  they  give  up  in 
despair.  Others  are  ridiculed  by  the  older  people 
for  throwing  away  their  time  at  such  useless  work ; 
"  There  is  no  money,  no  beer,  no  food  in  it  and  they 
are  dunces  to  go." 

Again,  some  are  grown,  and  being  past  the  age 
when  mental  effort  is  easy,  they  soon  become  dis- 
couraged. One  big  fellow  stumbled  along  until  he 
had  mastered  the  chart  after  a  fashion.  Then,  to 
his  delight,  he  was  given  the  Gospel  of  St.  John  to 
read.  Day  after  day  he  struggled  along  over  the,  to 
him,  meaningless  syllables  and  words.  Still  he 
persevered  until  it  gradually  dawned  upon  him  that 
the  printed  page  meant  something.  He  looked  up 
one  day  with  a  most  delighted  expression  on  his 
face  and  exclaimed,  "  This  book  is  talking  to  me !  " 

The  native  cannot  be  said  to  be  very  persevering, 
owing  to  the  fact  that  all  his  life,  in  his  untaught 
state,  he  goes  on  the  principle  that  the  world  owes 
him  a  living.  His  needs  are  few  and  often  they  are 
supplied  by  nature.  When  he  comes  up  against  a 


70  AFRICA 

difficult  problem  of  any  sort,  his  usual  answer  is, 
"  It  will  not  consent."  For  this  reason  arithmetic  is 
always  difficult  for  him  and  his  progress  in  it  is 
very  slow.  One  day  I  was  endeavoring  to  show  a 
girl  how  to  make  the  letter  b.  After  a  vain  effort  to 
make  it  properly,  she  exclaimed,  "  My  pencil  will 
not  consent  to  slide  that  way." 

The  sewing  hour  probably  was  the  most  interesting 
time  to  all.  They  expected  to  receive  the  garments 
after  they  had  finished  sewing  them  and  had  worked 
for  the  cloth  with  which  they  were  made.  The 
dearest  wish  of  their  hearts  was  to  have  a  garment 
to  put  on.  And  that  is  not  strange,  for  in  the  cool 
morning  air  they  come  shivering,  and  at  noon  the 
hot  sun  burns  their  bodies.  We  might  have  made  the 
garments  and  donated  them ;  but  that  would  not 
teach  them  to  work  and  would  have  done  them  more 
harm  than  good.  A  native  always  appreciates  most 
that  upon  which  he  has  bestowed  labor  or  money; 
so  both  boys  and  girls  learned  to  sew.  It  was  rather 
amusing  to  see  them,  in  the  absence  of  other  gar- 
ments to  which  they  might  pin  their  sewing,  place  it 
between  their  toes.  It  was  also  interesting  to  watch 
the  different  expressions  when  at  last  the  garments 
were  finished  and  they  could  clothe  themselves. 

Matshuba  put  on  his  suit ;  then,  folding  his  hands, 
said  in  a  quiet  and  contented  manner,  "  Now  I  am 
not  cold  any  more."  Amuzeze,  when  he  had  fin- 
ished his  garments,  put  them  on,  and  taking  a  good 
look  at  himself  stepped  off  as  proudly  as  if  he 
owned  a  large  estate.  Sibongamanzi  kept  her  dress 
for  Sunday.  At  home  she  would  carefully  fold  it, 


MATOPO    MISSION  71 

and  putting  it  in  an  earthen  jar  cover  it  up  for  safe 
keeping. 

In  the  meantime  services  on  Sunday  had  not  been 
neglected.  At  the  opening  of  the  work  none  of  the 
missionaries  could  speak  the  language,  but  they 
could  read  it  after  a  fashion.  So,  from  the  very  first 
Sunday  after  the  work  opened,  endeavors  were  made 
to  instill  into  the  minds  of  the  natives  that  one  day 
out  of  seven  was  a  day  of  rest  and  worship.  To 
them  all  days  were  alike — workdays,  rest  days,  or 
carousal  days,  as  they  chose  to  spend  them.  Sad  to 
say  that  even  the  few  that  went  to  work  for  the 
white  man  saw  little  or  no  difference  between  the 
days  of  the  week.  It  falls  to  the  lot  of  the  mission- 
ary to  teach  the  significance  of  the  fourth  command- 
ment as  well  as  the  rest  of  the  decalogue.  On  Sun- 
day the  people  were  invited  to  assemble  under  the 
shade  of  a  friendly  tree,  and  a  portion  of  the  Scrip- 
tures was  read  to  them  and  hymns  sung.  They  are 
great  lovers  of  music,  so  that  in  itself  was  an  at- 
traction. The  first  congregation  was  very  small. 
Sometimes  there  would  be  only  Mapita  and  his  fam- 
ily, five  or  six  in  number.  As  the  nature  of  the 
meetings  began  to  dawn  on  the  native  mind,  others 
would  assemble  with  us,  but  in  the  first  few  months, 
or  until  the  opening  of  school  in  October,  not  more 
than  twenty-five  congregated  at  one  time. 

Acquiring  the  language  is  always  a  tedious, 
though  important,  part  of  foreign  missionary  work. 
The  missionary  sees  the  natives  about  him.  day  by 
day,  and  longs  to  tell  them  something  of  Jesus  and 
His  love,  but  is  unable  to  do  so,  especially  if  he  be  a 
pioneer  in  the  work  and  without  an  interpreter  as 


72  AFRICA 

we  were.  We  had  been  endeavoring  to  study  the 
language  from  the  Zulu  books  on  hand,  but  on  com- 
ing face  to  face  with  the  natives  it  was  discovered 
that  the  set  phrases  we  had  acquired  seemed  as  un- 
intelligible to*them  as  their  words  were  to  us.  There 
were  several  reasons  for  this.  One  was  that  we  had 
not  learned  the  proper  pronunciation  and  accent, 
and  another  was  that  their  dialect  differed  some- 
what from  the  Zulu,  which  we  had  been  endeavoring 
to  learn.  Another,  and  far  weightier  reason,  and  one 
which,  to  our  sorrow,  we  did  not  discover  until 
some  time  afterwards,  was  that  some  natives  did 
not  speak  the  correct  language  to  us.  Those  who 
had  been  accustomed  to  speaking  to  the  Europeans 
had  invented  a  jargon  of  their  own,  which  they 
seemed  to  think  especially  adapted  to  the  mental 
capacity  of  w'hite  people.  This  medium  of  commu- 
nication is  known  as  "  kitchen  Kafir." 

It  consists  of  a  small  vocabulary,  chiefly  of  Zulu 
words,  simplified  and  divested  of  all  inflections — 
and  grammar,  it  might  be  said.  This  dialect,  which 
is  especially  distasteful  to  linguists,  is  invariably 
used  by  many  natives  in  addressing  white  people 
for  the  first  time.  It  is  the  common  language  of 
the  kitchen  and  the  shops,  between  master  or  mis- 
tress and  their  native  sen-ants.  It  has  also  of  later 
years  spread  much  among  the  natives  themselves 
where  various  tribes  meet  and  converse.  Its  use 
has  become  so  general  over  South  Africa,  and  even 
in  parts  of  South  Central  Africa,  that  it  has.  not 
inaptly,  been  termed  the  "  Esperanto  of  South  Afri- 
ca." Undoubtedly  it  lacks  much  of  the  elegance 
of  the  real  Esperanto,  but  is  in  daily  use  by  more 


MATOPO    MISSION  73 

people.  Not  only  is  "  kitchen  Kafir "  spoken  be- 
tween whites  and  blacks  and  between  blacks  them- 
selves, but  sometimes,  when  a  common  language 
fails,  something  akin  to  this  is  used  between  even 
the  white  people. 

Not  so  many  of  the  natives  in  the  hills  had  come 
into  contact  with  Europeans  before  our  coming 
among  them,  yet  there  was  sufficient  "  kitchen  Ka- 
fir "  among  them  to  confuse  the  newcomers  and 
make  it  necessary  in  after  years  to  unlearn  many  of 
the  things  they  first  acquired. 

Learning  the  language  is  trying,  especially  with- 
out a  teacher,  and  many  blunders  and  misunder- 
stands occur;  but  it  is  not  the  least  useful  of  mis- 
sionary experiences.  People  on  first  coming  into 
contact  with  raw  heathendom  are  seldom  capable  of 
doing  much  preaching  to  them  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  native  can  understand  and  appreciate. 

While  one  is  learning  the  language,  he  is  also 
learning  to  know  the  native  himself,  his  surround- 
ings, and  modes  of  thought.  By  the  time  one  is  able 
to  converse  with  the  native,  he  also  knows  better 
what  to  say  to  him.  One  thing,  however,  it  is  al- 
ways safe  to  do  from  the  time  the  missionary  enters 
the  field  of  labor ;  he  may  always  read  the  Word,  if 
he  has  it  in  the  language.  The  unadorned  Word  is 
always  safe  and  suits  all  conditions  of  men. 

Gradually  we  learned  to  speak  the  language,  sen- 
tence by  sentence.  How  our  hearts  burned  within 
us  those  days  to  be  able  to  tell  the  story  of  Christ 
and  His  love !  Usually  the  dull,  darkened  look  on 
the  faces  of  the  few  present  would  cause  the  speaker 
to  feel  that  he  had  not  been  understood,  or  that  there 


74  AFRICA 

had  been  no  answering  response.  Then  occasionally 
a  dusky  face  would  light  up,  as  if  a  ray  of  light  had 
penetrated  a  darkened  corner,  and  the  speaker 
would  be  encouraged  to  renewed  efforts  to  make  the 
subject  plain.  Thus,  Sunday  after  Sunday,  the 
effort  would  be  renewed. 

It  was  not  only  on  that  day,  however,  that  some 
of  the  older  ones  heard  the  Word  read  and  an  at- 
tempt at  explanation  given.  Morning  and  evening 
worship  was  held  in  the  native  language,  and  often 
a  larger  number,  in  those  early  days,  gathered  about 
us  on  workdays  than  on  Sunday.  The  door  was 
always  open  and  everyone  was  invited  to  enter  at 
time  of  prayer.  After  school  opened,  and  it  became 
better  known  which  day  was  Sunday,  and  that  the 
services  were  held  in  the  tent,  the  attendance  grad- 
ually increased. 

Our  feelings,  as  written  at  the  time,  were  some- 
what as  follows: 

We  realize  more  fully  every  day  that  much  wisdom 
and  grace  is  needed  in  dealing  with  this  people.  If  we 
did  not  have  such  confidence  in  our  Great  Leader,  we 
might  at  times  be  discouraged,  for  the  enemy  of  souls  is 
strong  here  in  Africa  and  human  nature  is  alike  the  world 
over.  When  the  truth  is  driven  home  to  their  hearts,  they 
are  quite  ready  to  excuse  themselves.  Thus  we  find  it 
necessary  to  get  down  lower  and  lower  at  the  feet  of 
Jesus  and  let  Him  fill  us  cbntinually  with  all  the  fulness 
of  His  love  and  Spirit,  that  there  may  be  no  lack  in  us. 

In  his  own  eyes  the  pagan  African  is  always  a 
good,  innocent  sort  of  person.  He  has  done  no 
wrong,  has  committed  no  sin,  hence  has  no  need  of 
forgiveness.  One  of  the  first  requisites  seems  to  be 
instilling  into  his  mind  a  knowledge  of  God  and  His 


MATOPO   MISSION  75 

attributes.  This  must  be  "  precept  upon  precept," 
"  line  upon  line,"  "  here  a  little  and  there  a  little." 
Time  after  time  this  thought  of  God  must  be  reit- 
erated until  it  is  burned  into  the  consciousness  of 
the  hearers.  We  are  told  of  one  missionary  who, 
for  the  first  two  years,  took  as  his  text,  Sabbath 
after  Sabbath,  "  God  is."  And  it  would  seem  to  be  a 
wise  course  to  pursue.  The  conception  of  a  Su- 
preme Being  Who  is  holy,  omnipotent,  omniscient, 
and  omnipresent,  and  cannot  look  upon  sin  with 
any  degree  of  allowance,  to  Whom  all  must  render 
an  account,  needs  to  be  indelibly  impressed  on  the 
native  mind.  Until  they  realize  that  "  all  have 
sinned  and  come  short  of  the  glory  of  God,"  it 
seems  useless  to  preach  Christ  as  a  Savior  to  them. 
Missionaries  soon  realize  that  they  cannot  sit 
down  and  wait  for  the  people  to  come  to  them. 
They  must  go  out  into  the  streets  and  lanes  of  their 
villages  and  "  into  the  highways  and  hedges  and 
compel  them  to  come  in."  Kraal-visiting  forms  a 
very  important  part  of  the  Gospel  work.  Sister 
Heise  and  myself  went  among  them  as  much  as 
possible.  We  went  chiefly  on  foot,  and  many  miles 
were  traveled  in  all  kinds  of  weather,  so  that  the 
people  might  be  instructed  in  the  things  of  God.  At 
first  these  visits  could  be  little  more  than  a  friendly 
call  and  the  speaking  of  a  few  broken  sentences. 
These  wild  children  of  nature  were  quick  to  respond 
to  the  interest  that  prompted  the  visits,  and  would 
always  welcome  the  visitors.  As  soon  as  we  were 
within  sight  the  children  would  come  to  meet  us 
and  pilot  us  to  their  parents.  When  we  left  they 
would  again  accompany  us  a  little  distance,  per- 


76  AFRICA 

haps  to  the  next  kraal.  Who  shall  say  but  that 
these  early  journeys,  in  which  little  of  the  Gospel 
was  given,  was  not  as  fruitful  of  results  for  God  as 
later  ones?  Back  of  those  black  exteriors  are  hu- 
man hearts  waiting  to  be  touched  by  the  finger  of 
love  and  human  sympathy,  ready  to  imbibe  the  milk 
of  human  kindness.  They  know  something  of  the 
natural  love  of  parent  to  child,  and  vice  versa;  but 
they  need  to  realize  that  there  is  such  a  thing  as 
disinterested  love  in  their  welfare,  and  by  this 
means  be  led  to  realize  in  some  little  measure  the 
wonderful  love  of  God.  In  this,  thank  God,  we  had 
no  need  to  simulate  love.  A  spark  of  the  Divine 
love  for  them  had  entered  our  hearts  before  we  even 
set  foot  on  Africa's  shores. 

It  is  difficult  to  understand  the  expression  of  a 
missionary  who  visited  Matopo  some  time  after  the 
work  was  started,  and  who  in  his  own  field  of  labor 
seemed  to  have  been  used  of  the  Lord.  He  said 
one  day :  "  I  cannot  say  that  I  love  these  people. 
I  do  not  love  that  child,"  pointing  to  a  little  girl  at 
some  distance  in  front  of  him,  "  but  I  realize  that 
Christ  loves  them  and  desires  them  to  be  saved, 
hence  my  work  among  them."  This  seemingly  cold 
sense  of  duty  may  answer.  If,  however,  the  pagan 
African  once  realizes  that  disinterested  love  prompts 
our  treatment  of  him,  he  is  generally  most  pliable 
and  teachable.  Without  something  of  the  Divine 
love  work  among  them  must  be  hard  indeed,  for 
there  are  so  many  trying  things  to  be,  met  with  day 
by  day. 

After  a  time  it  was  discovered  that  the  donkeys 
might  be  made  use  of  in  kraal  visiting.  I  well  re- 


MATOPO    MISSION  77 

member  our  first  experience  at  this  mode  of  travel. 
We  had  no  saddles,  so  we  placed  blankets  on  the 
backs  of  the  donkeys  and  fastened  them  with  sur- 
cingles of  our  own  manufacture.  Sister  Heise  was 
an  expert  rider,  while  I  was  quite  the  reverse.  Our 
first  trip  was  to  a  kraal  about  five  miles  distant,  the 
home  of  the  chief,  Hluganisa.  Two  boys,  Matshuba 
and  Sihlaba,  accompanied  us  as  guides.  All  went 
well  on  the  trip  over.  We  were  very  kindly  received 
by  the  people  and  afforded  an  opportunity  to  give 
them  the  Gospel.  The  village  was  up  among  the 
rocks,  and  as  donkeys  are  expert  climbers  they 
had  no  difficulty  in  making  the  ascent,  or  descent, 
either,  but  on  the  return  journey  I  could  not  keep 
my  place,  and  was  sent  over  the  donkey's  head  on  to 
the  ground.  My  companion,  when  she  saw  that  no 
harm  was  done,  rather  considered  the  accident  as  a 
good  joke,  and  I  joined  in  the  laugh  at  my  own  ex- 
pense. The  boys  failed  to  see  any  fun  in  it,  and 
seemed  greatly  to  resent  the  laughter. 

Some  time  after  this  we  made  another  journey  of 
about  the  same  distance  in  the  opposite  direction. 
The  reason  for  this  second  visit  was  as  follows : 
Among  our  pupils  was  a  nice,  modest-looking  girl 
about  twelve  years  of  age.  She  belonged  to  Mapita's 
family,  and  seemed  to  be  an  affectionate  and  well- 
behaved  child.  She  was  absent  from  school  for  a 
few  days,  and  on  inquiring  we  learned  that  she  had 
gone  to  the  home  of  her  intended  husband.  Greatly 
shocked,  we  made  further  inquiry,  and  were  told 
that  Mapita  had  sold  her  to  a  man  who  had  already 
one  wife,  and  that  he  lived  about  five  miles  away. 
It  was  our  first  experience  with  heathen  marriage, 


78  AFRICA 

and  we  determined  to  hunt  her  up  and  if  possible 
release  her.  We  looked  upon  this  child  as  a  slave 
or  prisoner. 

Taking  the  donkeys  and  our  two  boys,  we  again 
started  out  one  morning.  The  path  was  not  fa- 
miliar, even  to  our  guides.  It  wound  around  among 
the  rocks  and  we  were  in  great  danger  of  being  lost. 
Immense  boulders  were  piled  up  in  all  sorts  of  fan- 
tastic shapes,  and  a  white  person  could  easily  be  lost 
among  the  hills  and  perhaps  never  find  his  way 
out,  but  the  native  will  always  find  his  way.  Once 
we  found  ourselves  on  the  top  of  a  nearly  perpen- 
dicular rock,  and  dismounting  reached  the  bottom 
only  with  great  difficulty.  The  boys  inquired  the 
way  of  a  native  in  his  garden,  but  he  regarded  us 
with  suspicion  and  remained  silent.  Since  the  close 
of  the  rebellion,  when  the  natives  hid  themselves 
among  these  rocks,  they  have  been  very  suspicious 
of  white  people,  for  fear  some  one  may  desire  to  cap-, 
ture  them.  It  was  only  after  repeated  assurances 
by  the  boys  that  we  were  missionaries,  and  their 
friends,  that  he  consented  to  direct  us. 

Finally  we  reached  the  home  of  Buka,  the  man 
who  had  taken  little  Lomanzwana.  His  kraal  was 
situated  up  among  the  rocks  in  one  of  nature's  for- 
tresses. Here,  in  this  desolate  place,  in  the  midst 
of  densest  heathendom,  was  the  girl.  Her  husband 
was  a  cripple  and  very  pagan  looking.  But  what 
could  we  do  amid  such  rock-bound  customs  as  held 
these  people?  Nothing.  With  hearts  lifted  to  the 
Lord  in  prayer  we  tried  to  point  them  to  the  Lamb 
of  God.  The  man  regarded  us  with  wild-looking 
eyes,  and  listened  with  seemingly  dull,  uncompre- 


MATOPO   MISSION  79 

bending  ears  to  our  stammering  tongues.  When  he 
•was  asked  a  question,  he  looked  at  those  about  him 
and  wanted  to  know  what  sort  of  an  answer  the 
missionary  desired ;  then  he  would  answer  accord- 
ingly. In  another  hut  was  a  very  old  woman,  the 
mother  of  Buka,  who  was  an  imbecile  and  was  fed 
like  an  animal.  We  retraced  our  steps  with  heavy 
hearts,  but  for  many  a  day  the  memory  of  that  visit 
haunted  us. 

As  for  the  girl,  the  man  did  not  pay  sufficiently 
promptly  to  satisfy  Mapita,  so  he  finally  took  her 
home.  Later  she  was  sold  to  a  man  who  paid  a 
large  sum.  Here  they  quarreled  and  the  girl  re- 
turned home,  and  the  pay  had  to  be  given  back.  It 
is  needless  to  say  that  the  girl  was  thoroughly  de- 
moralized by  this  time.  She  was  finally  disposed  of 
to  another  man. 

In  February,  1899,  Matshuba  came  to  stay  at  the 
mission  and  attend  school.  Ever  since  the  mission 
had  opened  he  had  been  a  great  help  to  us  in  ac- 
quiring the  language,  and  as  he  could  understand 
us  more  readily,  he  often  explained  our  meaning  to 
others.  He  knew  too  just  how  many  Zulu  words 
were  in  our  vocabulary,  and  in  speaking  to  us  he 
adapted  himself  to  our  limited  understanding.  He 
also  gradually  acquired  the  English.  He  made  rapid 
progress  in  school ;  and  as  the  Light  came  to  him  he 
accepted  it.  He  did  not  do  this  all  at  one  bound, 
but,  as  it  were,  according  to  his  capacity  to  under- 
stand the  meaning  of  the  Atonement  and  kindred 
themes.  The  day  came  when  he  saw  himself  a  great 
sinner,  and  he  repented  in  truth.  He  was  the  only 
boy  staying  at  the  mission  for  a  time,  so  that  many 


80  AFRICA 

and  various  duties  fell  to  his  lot.  These  he  per- 
formed faithfully,  except  that  he  was  somewhat 
careless  in  herding  the  donkeys,  and  lost  them. 

One  evening  he  came  to  the  door  of  our  hut  in 
great  perplexity  and  said  that  he  would  like  to  have 
a  talk.  He  came  and  sat  down  on  the  hearthstone, 
then  said,  "  I  prayed  this  morning,  but  the  donkeys 
were  lost  at  any  rate."  By  his  language  he  evident- 
ly thought  that  if  he  prayed  the  Lord  would  do  the 
watching.  This  gave  us  an  opportunity  of  telling 
of  David,  the  faithful  shepherd  boy,  and  of  the 
"  Great  Shepherd,"  who  told  us  to  both  "  watch  and 
pray."  The  boy  then  told  something  of  his  early 
life.  Among  other  things  he  said: 

"  Father  used  to  tell  me  to  go  and  watch  the  gar- 
dens so  that  the  animals  would  not  come  and  take 
our  food.  I  did  not  watch  well  and  the  animals  de- 
stroyed the  crops  and  father  was  grieved." 

"Are  you  sorry  now  that  you  did  not  obey?  " 

"Oh!  yes,  indeed,"  was  the  reply.  "If  I  might 
live  that  time  over  again,  I  would  be  a  better  boy." 

He  continued,  "  When  father  was  sick  they  said 
he  was  bewitched.  So  they  tried  to  find  out  who 
had  bewitched  him.  Once,  before  he  died,  he  said 
that  he  would  like  to  see  a  missionary.  Umfundisi 
[Missionary]  Engle  should  have  come  sooner,  be- 
fore father  died." 

"  Matshuba,  did  you  ever  hear  of  Jesus  before  we 
came?  " 

"  Yes,  Missus,"  he  replied,  "  I  heard  His  Name 
once,  and  I  wanted  my  mother  to  go  where  there 
was  a  missionary ;  then  the  Lord  sent  you." 

Here  was  this  dear  soul,  groping  in  the  night  and 


MATOPO   MISSION  81 

reaching  out  for  something  better  than  he  had 
known,  he  knew  not  what.  When  the  Light  comes 
to  him  he  is  ready  to  accept  it.  There  are  many 
other  such  boys,  and  girls  too,  all  over  Africa,  who 
are  waiting  for  some  one  to  bring  them  the  Light. 
Is  it  you?  There  are  many  other  old  men  to  whom 
the  message  will  come  too  late  unless  some  one 
makes  haste  and  brings  it. 

Matshuba  had  many  hard  battles  to  fight,  and 
often  have  we  heard  him  out  among  the  rocks  pray- 
ing for  help  and  victory.  I  well  remember  the  first 
day  on  which  he  prayed  openly  before  the  school. 
Almost  the  hush  of  death  fell  upon  all,  for  it  was  a 
new  era  to  them.  One  of  their  number  had  learned 
to  pray  like  the  missionaries.  There  was  no  hut  at 
first  for  him  to  sleep  in,  so  he  lay  in  the  tent.  One 
morning  he  came  out,  his  face  all  aglow.  He  said, 
"  I  saw  Jesus  last  night.  He  came  and  stood  before 
me.  He  was  tall  and  bright  looking." 
.  Some  months  after  he  came,  another  boy,  Te- 
bengo,  came  to  stay  at  the  mission.  He,  too,  had 
been  attending  school  and  desired  to  be  a  Christian. 
Bright,  impulsive,  but  easily  misled,  in  his  instabil- 
ity he  was  just  the  opposite  of  the  more  steadfast 
Matshuba.  There  were  also  others  of  the  school- 
boys who  were  stepping  out  into  the  light,  and 
among  these  were  Kelenki  and  Siyaya,  who  were 
Mashona  people.  Their  home  seemed  more  heath- 
enish than  some  of  the  others,  but  these  boys,  with 
others  from  their  kraal,  appeared  earnest  in  the 
service  of  the  Master. 

A  Sunday-school  was  also  opened  this  first  year 
and  proved  quite  interesting  to  the  younger  ones 


82  AFRICA 

On  the  first  Chrismas  Day  the  natives  were  invited 
for  services  and  about  ninety  came — the  largest 
number  up  to  that  time.  After  the  services  they 
were  invited  to  a  large,  unfinished  hut,  and  all  were 
treated  to  bread  and  tea  and  some  salt.  Father  and 
Mother  Engle  sat  down  among  them  and  partook 
of  bread  and  tea  with  them.  This  greatly  delighted 
all,  and  it  was  just  as  much  of  a  pleasure  to  our 
elder  and  wife,  who  always  enjoyed  mingling  with 
the  people.  The  rest  of  us  saw  that  all  were  served. 
The  people  were  very  thankful  for  the  treat,  and 
all  expressed  their  gratitude  in  a  forcible  manner. 


CHAPTER  SEVEN 
Reinforcements,  and  Progress  of  the  Work 

THE  various  departments  of  the  mission  were 
gradually  enlarging,  and  as  the  work  in- 
creased the  burden  fell  more  and  more  heav- 
ily upon  Elder  Engle.  It  will  be  remembered  that 
efforts  were  made  to  secure  an  assistant  for  him 
before  we  left  America,  but  without  success.  In 
April,  1899,  however,  we  gladly  welcomed  into  our 
midst  three  new  missionaries  from  America.  These 
were  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Clifford  Cress  and  Mr.  Isaac 
Lehman.  They  were  able  and  consecrated  messen- 
gers, and  a  valuable  addition  to  the  work.  With 
them  came  also  several  large  boxes  of  clothing, 
cloth  for  the  sewing  school,  and  other  goods  which 
had  been  donated  for  the  mission.  About  this  time 
also  the  Board  sent  out  some  farm  implements,  a 
large  Studebaker  wagon,  a  two-seated  spring  wag- 
on, and  a  bell  for  calling  the  people  to  services. 
More  donkeys  had  already  been  purchased  by  Elder 
Engle,  so  that  the  question  of  traveling,  and  of 
bringing  out  supplies  from  Bulawayo,  was  most 
satisfactorily  settled. 

Shortly  after  this  we  also  had  the  pleasure  of  wel- 
coming Mr.  and  Mrs.  Van  Blunk,  of  the  Christian 
Holiness  Association.  These  had  come  to  make 
their  headquarters  near  us  and  engage  in  evangel- 
istic work.  We  had  now  quite  a  little  company  of 
83 


84  AFRICA 

Christian  workers — nine  in  number — and  had  very 
inspiring  and  encouraging  English  services,  as  well 
as  those  in  the  native  tongue.  Although  Brother 
Van  Blunks  were  under  a  different  Board  and  their 
work  was  in  a  measure  separate  from  the  rest,  yet 
they  were  spiritual  and  consecrated  missionaries 
and  of  great  assistance  in  exalting  Christ  among  the 
people. 

On  account  of  the  large  increase  in  the  number  of 
workers,  it  was  necessary  also  to  enlarge  our  dwell- 
ing place.  During  this  season  five  new  huts  were 
erected,  including  those  for  the  natives,  making  the 
mission  premises  look  like  a  little  village.  A  build- 
ing for  church  services  and  school  was  also  greatly 
needed.  During  the  entire  rainy  season  these  had 
been  held  in  the  tent,  which  was  proving  inadequate 
for  the  growing  congregation.  So  Brethren  Engle 
and  Lehman,  with  the  assistance  of  the  natives, 
erected  a  very  respectable  looking  church  building 
of  poles  and  mud,  16  x  30  feet.  It  was  furnished 
with  plank  seats  and  good  tables,  and  Brother  Van 
Blunk  donated  glass  for  windows.  Long  poles  of 
native  timber  were  then  secured  and  a  framework 
was  made  for  the  bell.  This  being  hoisted  and 
fastened  in  place  could  be  heard  at  many  of  the 
kraals.  It  also  assisted  in  informing  the  people  of 
the  Sabbath. 

At  sunset  on  Saturday  evening  it  was  rung  a  long 
time  to  inform  the  people  that  the  morrow  was  the 
Sabbath,  and  that  they  should  lay  aside  their  work 
and  prepare  for  rest  and  service.  Later  in  the  work 
some  of  us  agreed  to  take  that  time  for  secret  prayer 
in  behalf  of  the  people,  that  the  Lord  might  incline 


MATOPO   MISSION  85 

their  hearts  to  come  to  the  house  of  the  Lord. 
After  there  were  a  number  of  native  Christians, 
they  too  joined  us  in  prayer,  each  going  to  his 
private  place.  One  evening  we  were  greatly  im- 
pressed to  see  Mazwi,  the  boy  who  was  ringing 
slowly,  down  on  his  knees,  as  if,  while  he  was 
calling  the  people  to  prepare  for  worship  on  the 
morrow,  he  was  also  calling  upon  God  to  persuade 
them  to  come.  We  were  often  made  to  feel  too 
that  the  Lord  especially  honored  some  of  those 
prayers. 

The  sight  of  so  many  people  about  us  being  des- 
titute of  clothing  had  greatly  touched  Brother  En- 
gle's  heart,  and  he  had  written  to  America  about  it. 
The  result  was  a  large  box  of  clothing  generously 
donated.  He  gave  each  of  the  headmen  and  the 
chief  a  shirt  and  a  pair  of  trousers,  and  told  them  to 
come  to  services.  They  seemed  to  be,  and  no  doubt 
were,  very  grateful  for  the  favor  bestowed,  and  a 
very  few  made  good  use  of  the  garments.  Others 
came  once  or  twice  clothed,  and  then  nothing  more 
was  seen  of  them  or  their  clothing.  In  less  than  a 
year  these  latter  ones  came  again  and  asked  for 
clothes,  stating  that  they  had  nothing  to  wear  to 
church.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  by  this  time  the 
missionaries  had  learned  their  lesson,  and  those  de- 
siring to  be  clothed  had  to  work  for  it.  A  number 
did  come  and  work  for  clothing  and  were  well  paid, 
but  what  they  did  with  the  clothing  was  often  a 
mystery.  Shirts  they  generally  liked  and  appre- 
ciated, and  sometimes  the  other  garments  would  be 
sewed  up  in  a  wonderful  manner  and  do  duty  for  a 
shirt  or  coat,  or  they  would  answer  for  a  grain  bag. 


86  AFRICA 

Day  by  day  we  were  learning  the  nature  of  the 
people  about  us,  and  were  obliged  to  adjust  our- 
selves to  our  changed  understanding.  They  are  all 
children  and  must  be  dealt  with  accordingly.  The 
missionary  soon  finds  that  he  not  only  needs 
much  of  the  love  that  "  never  faileth,"  but  also  a 
large  supply  of  patience  continually  in  his  work. 
He  must  also  be  firm  in  his  dealings- with  the  natives 
and  make  them  know  their  place.  They  will  respect 
him  all  the  more  if  he  does  this  in  the  proper  spirit. 
Old  children  are  more  difficult  to  handle  than  young 
ones,  as  they  are  more  unreasonable  and  more  set 
in  their  ways.  They  generally  do  not  feel  under  any 
obligations  to  keep  their  promises  to  you,  but  they 
fully  expect  you  to  keep  yours  to  them,  otherwise 
they  will  lose  confidence  in  you. 

When  one  first  goes  to  the  heathen  and  sees  them 
in  their  ignorance  and  superstition,  seemingly  lack- 
ing everything  to  make  them  comfortable,  he  is  led 
to  speak  much  of  Christ  and  His  love,  thus  seeking 
to  win  them.  They  begin  to  say  within  themselves, 
"  Well,  if  He  loves  us,  He  will  do  us  no  harm,  so  we 
need  not  trouble  ourselves  about  Him,"  and  they 
continue,  as  vigorously  as  ever,  to  seek  to  appease 
the  malevolent  spirits,  who  they  think  are  seeking 
to  harm  them.  Then  the  missionary  thinks  he 
should  pursue  another  course.  He  soon  becomes 
somewhat  discouraged  and  disgusted  with  their  in- 
difference and  hypocrisy,  and  is  often  led  to  the 
opposite  extreme,  and  dwells  much  on  hell  and  con- 
demnation, which  tends  to  harden  his  hearers.  Fi- 
nally he  reaches  a  golden  mean.  He  realizes  that 
these  poor  souls  about  him  have  had  no  opportunity 


MATOPO    MISSION 


87 


of  rising  above  their  degrading  surroundings,  and 
he  must  take  them  as  they  are,  and  seek  by  the 
ability  which  God  giveth  to  live  the  Christ  life 
among  them  and  lift  them  to  a  higher  plane  of  liv- 
ing. 

The    Sunday-school    had    been    chiefly    for    the 
younger  ones,  but  we  concluded  to  add  a  class  for 


Matopo  Mission  Church  in  1899. 


Jesse  Engle. 


the  older  people.  This  was  greatly  appreciated  by 
some  of  them,  especially  Mapita.  It  began  with  few 
in  number;  but  as  time  passed  it  gradually  in- 
creased in  attendance  and  interest.  Mapita  seemed 
so  eager  to  learn  in  those  days,  and  would  often  look 
with  longing  eyes  into  the  Kingdom,  and  the  very 
joy  of  the  Lord  would  seem  to  be  reflected  in  his 
face,  but  he  was  afraid  to  step  over.  He  gained  a 


88  AFRICA 

great  deal  of  knowledge  of  the  Scriptures  too,  and 
he  was  not  slow  to  tell  other  people. 

All  the  services  were  more  or  less  informal,  and 
any  one  was  free  to  ask  questions;  yet  in  the  Sab- 
bath-school class  many  felt  more  at  home  and  often 
expressed  themselves  freely  in  regard  to  the  diffi- 
culties in  the  way  of  their  becoming  Christians.  One 
day,  after  we  had  explained  the  lesson,  Nyuka,  a 
witch  doctor,  said: 

"  I  believe  all  you  say,  and  that  Christ  is  able  to 
save  us,  but  what  can  I  do?  My  hands  are  tied.  I 
have  five  wives." 

Nothing  had  been  said  about  a  plurality  of  wives, 
but  intuitively  he  realized  that  it  was  a  formidable 
obstacle  in  his  way.  We  could  only  tell  him  that  if 
he  really  reached  the  place  where  he  desired  to  be 
saved,  the  Lord  would  open  the  way  for  him. 

As  question  after  question  arose  in  the  class,  the 
answer  often  given  would  be  to  open  the  Bible  and 
read  a  portion  suitable  for  the  question.  One  day, 
after  this  had  been  done  several  times,  one  of  the 
men  exclaimed,  "  It  is  no  use  to  argue  any  more  ;  that 
Book  knows  everything."  The  difficulty  generally 
was  that,  although  they  believed  the  Word,  they 
were  not  willing  to  take  the  Way.  The  darkness 
seemed  too  dense,  the  effort  required  was  too  great, 
the  transformation  was  too  absolute  for  these  old 
people,  rocked  in  the  cradle  of  paganism  for  gener- 
ations. It  is  the  younger  generation  that  are  chiefly 
benefited  by 'the  mission  work.  Sometimes  some  of 
the  others,  seeing  this,  will  say,  "  I  am  too  old ;  you 
should  have  come  sooner." 

Then  again  the  missionary  sometimes  meets  with 


MATOPO    MISSION  89 

a  Caleb  or  a  Joshua.  He  receives  some  encourage- 
ment, from  even  the  old.  Allow  me  to  give  an  ac- 
count of  a  visit  made  at  this  time : 

We  are  going  to  visit  an  old  queen.  It  is  not  our 
first  visit  to  her,  but  we  are  informed  that  she  is  ill 
at  present  and  her  friends  are  fearful  that  she  might 
die,  as  she  is  very,  very  old.  Sisters  Heise,  Cress, 
and  myself  are  going.  We  carry  a  little  bread, 
cocoa,  and  a  New  Testament.  She  is  living  at  the 
kraal  of  Mapita,  our  faithful  helper.  He  also  has 
been  sick  with  fever,  but  he  is  somewhat  better  to- 
day, and  is  sitting  out  of  doors  by  the  fire,  where  his 
wife  and  children  are  preparing  their  evening  meal. 
This  consists  of  peanut  gravy,  kafir-corn  porridge, 
and  pumpkin.  After  greeting  these,  we  pass  on  to 
the  hut  where  the  queen  lies.  We  sit  down  on  the 
ground,  so  that  we  may  look  into  the  little  opening 
which  serves  as  doorway.  The  woman  in  charge 
invites  us  to  enter,  and  we  crawl  into  the  hut.  In 
the  center  of  the  hut  is  a  fire  with  four  large  stones 
around  it ;  the  smoke  finding  its  way  into  our  eyes 
or  out  through  the  straw  roof,  for  there  is  no  chim- 
ney and  no  window.  Near  this  fireplace  lies  the 
poor  old  queen.  Her  bed  consists  of  a  large  hide 
spread  on  the  hard,  polished  earthen  floor,  and  a 
block  of  wood  serves  for  a  pillow.  A  blanket  is 
thrown  over  her  body.  We  offer  the  cocoa,  which 
the  sick  one  gratefully  accepts,  but  the  bread  is  re- 
fused. We  then  go  to  her  side  and  try  to  point  her 
to  the  Lamb  of  God,  which  taketh  away  the  sin  of 
the  world,  and  tell  her  of  the  home  prepared  for  all 
those  who  love  God.  She  tries  to  listen,  and  some- 
times responds  to  the  question  asked.  Of  course 


90  AFRICA 

our  knowledge  of  the  language  is  still  imperfect;  and 
it  is  more  difficult  for  the  old  to  understand  than 
for  the  young.  When  the  sick  one  does  not  fully 
comprehend,  the  nurse,  who  is  Matshuba's  mother, 
explains.  Sitting  here  by  this  old  woman,  and  see- 
ing her  stretch  out  her  thin  hands  to  the  warm 
stones  at  the  fire,  we  forget  that  vermin  surrounds 
us  or  that  our  clothes  might  become  soiled;  our 
hearts  only  overflow  with  a  desire  to  let  a  flood  of 
light  into  the  soul  of  the  poor  one  before  us.  As 
the  talk  continues  she  does  seem  to  grasp  some  of 
the  spiritual  truths,  and  she  gives  a  more  ready 
assent  to  the  questions  asked: 

"  Do  you  desire  us  to  pray  for  you  ?  " 

"  Oh !  yes,"  she  exclaimed  with  feeling.  "  I  al- 
ways love  to  have  you  pray  to  Jesus  for  me." 

Kneeling  there  we  offer  prayers  that  the  Lord 
would  speak  to  this  dear  soul  and  prepare  her  to 
meet  Him.  Her  farewell  word  and  clinging  clasp 
of  the  hand  on  our  departure  cause  us  to  feel  that 
light  is  breaking,  and  that  she,  in  her  feeble  way,  is, 
by  faith,  taking  hold  of  Christ.  Once  before,  when 
we  visited  her,  she  too  offered  up  her  feeble  petition. 

We  emerge  from  the  hut  and  stop  a  few  minutes 
to  speak  with  Mapita  and  his  family,  and  offer  up  a 
word  of  prayer.  The  sun  has  already  set,  so  we 
hastily  bid  them  adieu  and  start  for  home,  but  not 
before  they  have  sent  their  respects  to  Father  and 
Mother  Engle. 

Thus  ends  one  of  the  many  visits  we  are  called 
upon  to  make.  But  who  is  this  old  queen,  amid 
such  unqueenly  surroundings?  She  was  one  of  the 
numerous  wives  of  Mzilikazi,  the  founder  and  first 


MATOPO    MISSION 


91 


king  of  the  Matabele  tribe.  He  had  a  large  number 
of  wives,  not  fewer  than  forty  or  fifty,  and  this  was 
one  of  them.  The  natives  here  claim  that  she  was 
his  chief  wife  and  the  mother  of  Lobengula,  the 
king.  We  think  that,  however,  is  very  doubtful, 
although  the  husband  of  the  woman  where  she  stays 
was  one  of  Lobengula's  most  trusted  men. 


Mrs.   Cress   Giving   a  Lesson   in   Cleanliness. 

This  poor  queen  in  her  younger  days  had  no  doubt 
plenty,  with  slaves  to  wait  upon  her  and  do  her  bid- 
ding. Now,  in  her  old  age,  she  tries  to  work 
for  a  living  by  cultivating  the  soil,  and  growing 
her  own  food.  If  her  change  of  fortune  is  instru- 
mental in  leading  her  to  Christ,  she  is  richer  than 
she  knows.  She  will  not  have  all  her  good  things  in 
life.  We  have  been  trying  to  help  her  also  in  tem- 
poral affairs. 


92  AFRICA 

She  arose  from  this  sick  bed  and  afterwards  vis- 
ited us.  One  day,  when  we  were  again  speaking  of 
Christ,  her  face  lighted  up  and  she  exclaimed,  "  I 
am  happy  because  Jesus  lives  in  here,"  putting  her 
hand  on  her  breast.  We  feel,  as  Sister  Heise  ex- 
pressed it,  "  One  would  look  upon  her  as  one  of 
the  first  fruits  of  our  mission  work  in  Africa." 

Although  the  work  among  most  of  the  older  peo- 
ple thus  far  appeared  to  make  little  progress,  if  we 
may  judge  by  their  lives,  yet  a  number  of  the 
pupils  were  steadfast.  As  far  as  could  be  ascer- 
tained they  had  accepted  Christ  as  their  Savior  and 
were  walking  out  in  all  the  light  they  had.  Since 
they  were  eager  to  follow  the  Lord  in  all  things  it 
was  considered  advisable  to  baptize  some.  Accord- 
ingly, after  the  little  church  was  completed,  they 
were  examined  as  to  their  faith.  In  August,  1899, 
nine  boys  and  one  girl  were  by  Elder  Engle  led  into 
one  of  those  sparkling  streams  and  dipped  three 
times  into  the  name  of  the  Trinity,  and  thus  put  on 
the  Lord  by  baptism.  It  was  a  time  of  great  re- 
joicing and  encouragement  to  the  missionaries  when 
this  was  done,  and  they  could  gather  around  the 
table  of  the  Lord,  with  some  dark-skinned  brethren, 
who  had  so  lately  come  out  of  pagan  darkness.  Al- 
though these  were  but  babes,  yet  the  missionaries 
felt  that  the  Lord  had  set  His  seal  upon  the  work. 

It  might  seem  that  we  were  somewhat  hasty  in  thus 
so  soon  receiving  into  church  fellowship.  The  mis- 
sion had  been  opened  only  a  little  over  a  year,  and 
our  imperfect  knowledge  of  the  language,  as  well  as 
of  the  native  character,  made  it  scarcely  possible 
for  them  to  be  well  instructed  in  the  things  of  the 


MATOPO   MISSION  93 

Lord.  There  was  no  cause  to  think,  however,  that 
they  were  not  honest  and  sincere  so  far  as  they 
knew.  There  was  a  radical  change  in  their  lives, 
and  some  were  steadfast,  but  others  had  not  fully 
counted  the  cost  and  soon  fell  back,  if  indeed  they 
were  really  saved.  One  of  the  oldest,  who  was  over 
twenty  years  of  age,  stood  well  until  he  went  to 
work  for  a  European,  who  made  sport  of  him,  and 
the  boy  gradually  fell  back  into  his  former  habits. 
Great  pains  were  taken  to  lead  them  on  to  know  the 
Lord. 

During  this  year  the  war  known  as  the  Boer  War 
began  in  South  Africa*.  It  was  a  conflict  which 
seemed  inevitable  between  the  wealthy  English 
mine  owners  and  their  Dutch  rulers.  We  are  per- 
haps safe  in  saying  that  heavy  taxation  without 
sufficient  representation  was  the  chief  cause  of  the 
war.  The  first  event  of  importance  in  connection 
with  it  was  the  siege  of  Kimberley,  the  great  dia- 
mond field,  and  the  headquarters  of  Mr.  Rhodes  at 
the  time.  This  occurred  October  14.  The  war  then 
spread  through  other  parts  of  South  Africa  and  to 
the  border  of  Rhodesia,  but  did  not  extend  into  it. 
English  troops  were,  however,  stationed  there  to 
repel  an  invasion  should  one  be  attempted. 

The  war  did  not  directly  affect  us,  but  indirectly 
it  did.  By  the  siege  of  Kimberley,  and  later  that  of 
Mafeking,  and  the  destruction  of  the  railroad  our 
line  of  supplies  from  Cape  Town  was  cut  off,  con- 
sequently prices  in  Rhodesia  rose  very  rapidly. 
Sugar  was  soon  two  shillings  (48c)  per  pound,  flour 
about  three  guineas  ($15)  per  one  hundred  pounds, 
and  other  groceries  in  proportion.  With  little 


94  AFRICA 

money  on  hand,  and  the  prospects  of  receiving  more 
under  such  conditions  uncertain,  famine  might  have 
stared  us  in  the  face.  There  was  no  need  to  be 
uneasy,  however;  the  Lord  and  the  forethought  of 
Father  and  Mother  Engle  prepared  us  for  such  an 
emergency.  Shortly  before  this  the  Charter  Com- 
pany had  placed  some  cattle  on  the  mission  farm, 
and  we  had  the  use  of  milk.  Butter,  eggs,  and  vege- 
tables for  a  time  brought  a  very  high  price  in  Bula- 
wayo  market,  and  with  all  these  the  mission  was 
supplied.  The  little  spring  wagon,  drawn  by  four 
donkeys,  went  to  Bulawayo  nearly  every  week  for 
a  time,  taking  in  produce  «which  brought  a  high 
price,  and  we  were  in  turn  able  to  pay  a  high  price 
for  groceries  and  food  for  the  table ;  so  that,  during 
the  darkest  days  of  the  war,  all  our  needs  were  sup- 
plied. 

Occasionally  disquieting  rumors  would  reach  us 
that  the  Boers  were  about  to  force  their  way 
through  and  come  into  Rhodesia.  The  natives 
themselves  were  not  a  little  interested  in  the  out- 
come of  the  war.  They  had  no  newspapers  or 
system  of  telegraphy  like  the  white  people,  but  they 
had  a  means  of  gaining  news  which  to  them  was 
much  more  effective.  This  was  by  means  of  com- 
munication among  themselves.  How  they  so 
quickly  secured  news  of  the  various  engagements  in 
the  south  and  the  result  of  each  engagement  was  a 
mystery.  We  on  our  part,  situated  among  them  as 
we  were,  and  conscious  that  there  were  many  who 
were  still  seething  under  British  rule,  could  not 
avoid  wondering  what  might  be  the  outcome  were 
the  British  defeated.  On  the  other  hand,  many  of 


MATOPO   MISSION  95 

the  natives  seemed  to  prefer  British  rule  to  that  of 
the  Dutch.  They  chose  to  remain  as  they  were 
rather  than  change  masters. 


CHAPTER  EIGHT 

Extension  of  the  Work  Followed  by  Dark 
Days 

Verily,  verily,  I  say  unto  you,  Except  a  corn  of  wheat 
fall  into  the  ground  and  die,  it  abideth  alone;  but  if  it 
die,  it  bringeth  forth  much  fruit. — St.  John  12:  24. 

MATOPO  MISSION  was  only  one  little  light 
in  the  surrounding  darkness,  and  it  was 
hoped  that  other  stations  might  be  opened 
in  time.  So  after  Brother  and  Sister  Cress  came, 
or  as  soon  as  they  had  some  little  knowledge  of  the 
language  and  of  the  work,  they  desired  to  open 
another  station.  After  looking  the  country  over, 
they  felt  led  to  a  place  up  among  the  hills  near  the 
kraal  of  Buka,  of  whom  mention  was  made  earlier 
in  these  pages.  There  were  a  number  of  kraals  in 
the  immediate  vicinity,  and  the  location  seemed  a 
good  one,  except  that  it  was  somewhat  near  Matopo 
Mission.  They  decided  to  move  out  in  November, 
and  at  that  time  they,  together  with  the  tent  and 
supplies,  were  taken  to  their  new  station.  Unfor- 
tunately a  heavy  rain  came  on  while  they  were  on 
the  way  and  the  ground  was  thoroughly  soaked 
before  they  had  an  opportunity  to  pitch  their  tent. 
They  concluded,  however,  to  remain  at  their  place 
and  build.  It  was  named  Entabeni  Mission. 

The  building  progressed  satisfactorily,  and  they 
held  services  on  each  Sunday  for  about  two  months 
or  a  little  over.    They  felt  encouraged  in  their  work 
96 


MATOPO   MISSION  97 

and  the  natives  interested.  At  the  Christmas  holi- 
days they  came  to  spend  the  time  with  us,  and  we 
had  a  very  enjoyable  time  with  the  natives.  The 
third  week  in  January,  1900,  a  messenger  arrived  to 
inform  us  that  Sister  Cress  had  been  stricken  with 
fever.  A  conveyance  was  immediately  sent  to 
the  place  to  bring  her  to  Matopo  Mission,  and  by 
the  time  that  reached  their  mission  Brother  Cress 
also  was  sick.  Both  were  brought  to  the  mission 
and  made  as  comfortable  as  possible.  At  first  no 
one  considered  their  illness  serious,  for  our  party 
had  thus  far  been  enjoying  good  health  since  the 
work  opened.  Other  complications  set  in  in  connec- 
tion with  Sister  Cress'  illness,  and  she  gradually 
grew  worse.  For  twenty-four  hours  she  lay  uncon- 
scious and  then  rallied  and  seemed  quite  bright. 
We  were  all  present — Engles,  Van  Blunks,  Sister 
Heise,  Brother  Lehman,  and  myself — when  she  ral- 
lied. She  requested  that  prayer  be  offered  for  her 
recovery.  This  was  done  and  we  felt  that  she  would 
gain  strength,  but  it  was  not  to  be.  In  half  an 
hour  that  sweet  young  life  passed  to  be  with  God. 
This  was  February  8,  1900.  All  through  her  sick- 
ness she  felt  perfectly  resigned  to  the  Lord's  will, 
whether  for  life  or  death. 

We  felt  that  we  could  not  spare  this  saintly  wom- 
an, so  well  fitted  both  by  nature  and  by  grace  to 
shine  for  God.  She  had  laid  her  all  upon  the  altar 
for  Africa,  and  often  expressed  herself  that  she 
wanted  to  spend  her  life  in  behalf  of  this  people. 
She  had  been  in  Africa  only  nine  and  one-half 
months,  yet  she  had  entered  heart  and  soul  into  the 
work  of  the  Lord,  and  was  rapidly  acquiring  the 


98  AFRICA 

language,  so  that  she  could  converse  with  the  people. 
She  had  formed  some  of  the  women  into  a  sewing 
class,  uniting  this  work  with  religious  instructions, 
and  endearing  herself  to  all  with  whom  she  came 
into  contact.  She  loved  the  people  and  was  willing 
and  ready  to  undertake  any  kind  of  work  that  came 
to  her.  She  was  especially  gifted  in  prayer,  and  it 
was  always  an  inspiration  to  the  rest  of  us  to  listen 
to  her  heartfelt  petition.  Why  the  Lord  thus  early 
in  her  missionary  career  took  her  to  Himself,  we 
know  not;  but  when  the  things  of  earth  shall  be 
revealed,  when  we  shall  know  as  we  are  known, 
then  all  will  be  clear. 

Brethren  Engle  and  Lehman  made  a  coffin ;  we 
covered  it  within  with  white  muslin  and  without 
with  black  cloth,  and  thus  laid  the  body  away.  Mr. 
Eyles,  of  Bulawayo,  was  interested  in  the  mission 
and  occasionally  visited  us  and  spoke  to  the  natives, 
since  he  had  good  command  of  the  Zulu  language. 
On  this  occasion  he  consented  to  come  out  and 
preach  the  funeral  sermon.  The  chief  men  of  the  peo- 
ple carried  her  to  her  last  resting  place  beneath  the 
Umkuni  tree,  and  they  mingled  their  tears  with 
ours.  The  occasion  was  made  more  sad  by  the  fact 
that  the  husband  was  still  ill  and  unable  to  view  the 
corpse  or  attend  the  funeral. 

During  the  sickness  of  these  two  people  we  great- 
ly appreciated  the  presence  and  help  of  Brother  and 
Sister  Van  Blunk,  who  still  lived  near  the  mission. 
Both  were  very  kind  in  assisting  to  care  for  the 
sick  and  also  in  the  last  sad  rites.  Shortly  after- 
wards they  moved  to  Bulawayo  and  made  that  the 
headquarters  of  their  evangelistic  work. 


MATOPO    MISSION 


99 


, 


100  AFRICA 

Brother  Cress  recovered  from  his  illness,  but  con- 
cluded that  it  was  best  for  him  to  return  to  America, 
and  wrote  the  Board  accordingly.  He  felt  his  loss 
keenly.  The  work  in  general  resumed  its  normal 
condition  until  the  last  week  in  March,  when  our 
bishop  and  overseer,  Elder  Engle,  became  sick.  He 
had  been  very  busy  with  the  work,  and  in  his  fre- 
quent trips  to  Bulawayo,  sometimes  in  the  rain, 
he  may  have  exposed  himself.  His  condition  did 
not  seem  serious,  and  he  was  not  obliged  to  keep  his 
bed  continually.  On  April  2  he  walked  to  a  garden 
near  by,  and  when  he  returned  he  again  lay  down. 
He  ate  heartily  of  the  dinner  prepared  for  him,  after 
which  his  wife  came  to  the  dining-room  and  ate 
with  us.  At  the  close  of  our  3  P.  M.  dinner  she 
went  to  her  room,  but  returned  at  once  and  asked 
me  to  fill  the  hot  water  bottle  and  come  over.  I 
did  so  and  found  Brother  Engle  having  a  heavy  chill 
and  speaking  the  Zulu  language  rapidly,  seemingly 
unconscious  of  our  presence.  We  endeavored  in 
every  day  to  help  him,  but  soon  found  that  he  was 
rapidly  becoming  paralyzed.  Sister  Heise  and 
Brother  Lehman  were  called  and  a  consultation 
held.  It  was  decided  to  send  a  messenger  to  the  fort, 
ten  miles  away,  and  from  there  telephone  to  Bula- 
wayo for  a  doctor.  Brother  Cress  had  left  that  day 
to  go  as  far  as  the  fort  on  his  way  to  Bulawayo,  and 
he  was  also  to  be  informed. 

All  night  we  watched  by  the  Elder's  bedside,  but 
there  was  nothing  that  could  be  done.  Brother 
Cress  arrived  near  noon  the  next  day,  but  the  doctor 
did  not  arrive  in  time.  That  was  a  dark  time  as 
he  lay  paralyzed  and  unconscious  in  the  little  mud 


MATOPO   MISSION  101 

hut  he  called  home,  far  from  his  children,  far  from 
the  comforts  of  civilization,  with  none  of  his  family 
or  relatives,  save  his  devoted  wife,  by  his  side.  As 
it  became  evident  that  the  end  was  near,  that  heroic 
mother,  who  had  been  such  a  worthy  companion  in 
all  his  labors,  stooped  over  and  imprinted  on  his 
face  a  kiss  for  each  of  their  seven  sons  in  far-away 
America.  At  5  P.  M.,  April  3,  he  breathed  his  last. 
Thus,  in  less  than  two  months  from  the  date  of 
Sister  Cress'  death,  Elder  Engle  also  was  called 
home.  The  loss  of  our  sister  was  great,  but  this 
seemed  to  be  a  still  greater  blow  on  the  mission. 

He  was  so  absorbed  in  the  work,  and  no  sacrifice 
was  too  great,  no  labor  too  hard,  for  him  to  endure. 
Perhaps,  if  he  had  spared  himself  a  little  more,  he 
might  have  been  able  to  continue  longer  in  the 
work.  Who  knows?  The  language  was  difficult 
for  one  at  his  age,  yet  he  was  making  heroic  efforts 
to  acquire  it,  and  could  make  himself  pretty  well 
understood.  We  have  seen  him,  after  reading  the 
Word,  stand  before  the  people,  with  the  tears  run- 
ning down  his  face  in  his  great  love  for  them  and 
in  his  desire  to  help  them  to  Christ.  And  the  na- 
tives knew  that  he  loved  them  and  they  in  turn 
loved  him  and  greatly  lamented  his  departure.  The 
language  of  many  of  them  might  be  summed  up  in 
that  of  one  woman.  As  she  stood  by  his  coffin, 
weeping,  she  said: 

"  He  was  good  to  me.  He  gave  me  salt,  he  gave 
me  calico.  What  shall  we  do  without  him?" 

It  seemed  that  his  life  work  was  finished.  He 
had  had  the  desire  of  his  heart,  in  that  he  had  been 
permitted  to  reach  Africa  and  see  a  work  started  in 


102  AFRICA 

the  wilds.  He  had  been  privileged  to  see  something 
of  the  travail  of  soul  by  beholding  some  step  into 
the  Kingdom.  Now  he  had  gone  to  hear  the  wel- 
come message,  "  Well  done,  good  and  faithful  serv- 
ant .  .  .  enter  thou  into  the  joy  of  thy  Lord." 

This  time  it  was  Brethren  Cress  and  Lehman  who 
made  the  coffin.  There  was  no  lumber  on  hand, 
but  they  removed  some  from  the  hut  doors  for  the 
purpose.  Again  we  covered  it  to  contain  the  form 
of  our  elder.  Mr.  Eyles  could  not  meet  with  us  at 
this  time,  and  the  Van  Blunks  were  away;  but  two 
of  the  officials  from  Fort  Usher  were  present,  and 
a  number  of  natives,  not  so  many,  however,  as  at 
the  previous  time.  No  doubt  they  were  becoming 
suspicious  of  this  oft-repeated  death.  The  white 
men  present,  together  with  some  of  the  natives,  car- 
ried the  body  to  its  last  resting  place  beside  Sister 
Cress.  Brother  Cress  spoke  in  English  to  the  white 
people  present,  while  the  natives  were  addressed 
by  the  writer  from  2  Tim.  4 :  7-8. 

The  devoted  wife  had  been  wonderfully  sustained 
by  a  Higher  Power  through  all  this  sad  scene.  She 
had  been  called  here,  far  from  her  home  and  family, 
to  lay  away  her  husband,  but  she  realized  that  she 
was  not  alone.  When,  however,  the  funeral  was 
over,  the  effects  of  the  shock  and  of  the  strain 
through  which  she  had  been  passing  were  manifest. 
She  too  took  her  bed  with  the  dread  African  fever. 

The  Seventh  Day  Adventist  missionaries,  who 
had  been  so  kind  to  us  when  we  first  came  to  Bula- 
wayo,  sent  letters  of  condolence  as  soon  as  they 
heard  of  our  bereavement,  and  offered  the  services 
of  their  physician,  should  we  need  him.  In  this 


MATOPO   MISSION 


103 


104  AFRICA 

emergency  we  sent  for  him  to  come  and  see  Mother 
Engle.  He  rode  the  fifty  miles  on  horseback  to 
come  to  minister  to  her  and  to  give  us  instructions 
as  to  how  to  treat  the  disease.  This  was  something 
which  we  greatly  needed  and  appreciated,  and  it  has 
been  of  great  service  to  us  in  later  years.  He  would 
accept  no  compensation  for  his  long  and  tiresome 
journey.  Such  are  the  big  hearts  one  finds,  in  the 
interior  of  Africa.  They  are  enlarged  to  take  in 
more  of  the  Spirit  of  the  Master.  All  was  done  that 
could  possibly  be  done  for  Mother  Engle,  so  that 
she  might  gain  her  health  sufficiently  to  return  to 
America  with  Brother  Cress.  She  continued  to 
have  relapses  of  the  fever  for  three  months,  and  it 
was  not  until  July  19  that  she  was  able  to  make  the 
journey. 

Brother  Cress'  stay  of  sixteen  months  in  Africa 
had  brought  great  loss  to  him,  but  the  Lord  had 
sustained  him.  We  were  sorry  to  lose  him  as  well 
as  Mother  Engle  in  the  work.  She  never  felt  called 
of  herself  to  go  as  a  missionary,  but  only  to  be  with 
her  husband.  When  he  was  led  of  the  Lord  to  go 
forth,  she  most  cheerfully  bade  farewell  to  her  fam- 
ily and  all  that  was  dear  to  a  mother's  heart  and 
went  with  her  husband,  neither  of  them  knowing 
whether  they  would  be  permitted  to  see  their  family 
again.  She  was  not  merely  a  companion  to  him, 
but  a  most  devoted  helpmate,  not  only  in  all  that 
can  possibly  mean  in  civilized  lands ;  but  larger  still, 
in  the  heartaches,  the  weariness,  the  loneliness,  and 
the  discouragements  that  come  to  a  missionary. 
How  often  the  names  of  their  loved  ones  would  be 
spoken  by  these  two !  How  they  would  linger  over 


MATOPO   MISSION  105 

the  letters  that  came,  and  yet  never  a  word  of  com- 
plaining or  regret  that  they  had  left  all  for  this. 
When  Elder  Engle  died  we  felt  that  we  had  lost  a 
father;  so,  when  she  left  for  America,  we  realized 
that  the  mother  and  homemaker  was  gone. 

Before  their  departure  a  most  important  event 
transpired.  I  refer  to  the  marriage,  on  May  1,  of 
Mr.  Isaac  Lehman  and  Miss  Alice  Heise,  by  Rev. 
Van  Blunk.  This  was  to  have  taken  place  earlier, 
but  was  delayed  by  the  sorrowful  events  through 
which  we  were  passing.  Even  the  day  of  the  wed- 
ding was  saddened  by  a  most  serious  relapse  of 
Mother  Engle,  and  we  felt  quite  anxious  on  her 
account.  This  was  the  first  opportunity  for  the  na- 
tives to  see  something  of  a  Christian  wedding,  and 
we  believe  they  were  impressed  with  the  difference 
between  a  Christian  and  a  pagan  marriage.  Brother 
Lehman  was  a  consecrated  young  man  and  had 
from  the  first  taken  hold  of  the  work  along  all  lines 
with  zeal  and  readiness.  He  had  also  made  rapid 
strides  in  the  language.  Sister  Heise,  too,  ever  since 
the  opening  of  the  mission,  had  been  a  most  able 
and  efficient  worker,  so  that  both  were  well 
equipped  to  do  effectual  service  for  the  Master. 

All  of  us  accompanied  Mother  Engle  and  Brother 
Cress  to  Bulawayo,  where  they  rested  for  a  day  and 
then  took  the  train  for  Cape  Town,  while  we  re- 
turned to  continue  the  work.  For  a  time  nine  white 
workers  had  been  at  Matopo  Mission,  and  in  less 
than  six  months  the  number  had  been  reduced  to 
three.  Those  left,  however,  were  not  discouraged. 
May  23  of  the  same  year  one  of  them  wrote  to  the 
Evangelical  Visitor: 


106  AFRICA 

"  He  that  keepeth  thee  will  not  slumber."  This  is  the 
Father's  promise  to  all  His  dear  children,  not  only  to 
you  who  are  sheltered  in  Christian  homes,  but  also  to 
us  who  are  in  the  wilds  of  Africa.  We  have  just  as  much 
faith  in  the  promise  today  as  when  to  outward  appear- 
ances everything  was  more  secure.  Your  hearts  with 
ours  have  no  doubt  been  torn  by  the  sad  messages  which 
have  crossed  the  waters  during  the  few  months  just  past, 
and  some  one  may  be  even  tempted  to  doubt  whether  it 
was  the  Lord's  will  for  us  to  come  to  Africa.  Beloved, 
does  England  doubt  the  outcome  of  the  deadly  conflict 
raging  in  South  Africa  because  she  has  already  lost  thou- 
sands of  men?  Is  her  courage  failing?  No;  far  from 
it.  Money  and  men  are  continually  pouring  into  the 
country  and  soon  the  independence  of  two  states  will  be 
a  thing  of  the  past.  Shall  we  as  Christian  soldiers  have 
less  faith  in  the  King  of  kings?  Shall  we  give  up  the 
conflict  because  two  have  fallen  by  our  side?  No;  not  if 
all  men  forsake  us,  for  with  God  we  still  have  a  majority. 
While  our  hearts  feel  bereft  by  the  departure  of  our  be- 
loved colaborers,  we  still  have  confidence  in  our  Great 
Captain,  and  we  know  that  He  never  lost  a  battle. 


CHAPTER    NINE 
The  Battle  Is  not  Yours,  but  God's 

Wherefore  take  unto  you  the  whole  armour  of  God, 
that  ye  may  be  able  to  withstand  in  the  evil  day,  and 
having  done  all,  to  stand. — Eph.  6:  13. 

THE  missionary  going  among  the  heathen 
must  realize  that  he  is  about  to  engage  in  a 
warfare,  and  that  the  conflict  will  be  fierce 
and  long.  He  is  assailing  the  great  enemy  of  souls 
in  his  stronghold.  The  fight  is  on  continually  and 
one  must  keep  armed  for  battle.  More  important 
yet  than  this  the  missionary  should  remember  that 
he  is  under  orders  and  that  the  work  is  not  his  but 
the  Lord's. 

The  loss  of  our  fellow-soldiers  was  most  keenly 
felt,  and  there  were  some  severe  tests  to  face.  The 
work  had  become  disorganized  by  the  continued  ill- 
ness and  the  deaths,  when  all  our  energies  had  been 
needed  in  caring  for  those  about  us.  Encouraging 
letters,  however,  came  from  the  homeland  and  the 
Mission  Board,  so  that  we  realized  that  prayers 
were  being  offered  in  our  behalf  and  in  behalf  of 
the  work.  We  also  expected  that  reinforcements 
would  be  forthcoming  in  the  Lord's  own  time.  So, 
under  the  leadership  of  our  Great  Captain,  the  army 
was  again  set  in  array  and  the  conflict  continued. 

We  were  pleased  to  note  that  the  people  stood  by 
us  nobly  in  this  extremity,  even  though  Satan  had 
107 


108  AFRICA 

put  forth  every  effort  to  defeat  the  work.  Some 
who  had  started  to  follow  the  Lord  saw  that  they 
had  become  indifferent  and  renewed  their  covenant. 
There  were  four  boys  who  were  staying  at  the  mis- 
sion at  this  time,  and  they  came  one  evening  and 
said  they  would  like  to  have  a  talk.  This  was  not 
so  strange,  as  we  often  had  little  confidential  chats 
with  them.  On  this  particular  evening  they  came 
in  and  sat  down.  Then,  without  any  preliminary 
remarks,  Matshuba  arose  and  made  a  complete  con- 
fession of  his  past  life.  He  then  sat  down  and 
Kelenki  arose  and  began  to  do  the  same.  I  said, 

"  Boys,  if  you  desire  we  will  call  Brother  and 
Sister  Lehman,  that  they  may  hear  likewise." 

They  replied,  "  Yes,  Miss,  do  so,  for  we  desire  to 
confess  everything  and  have  all  wiped  away,  and  we 
do  not  want  to  repeat  our  wrongdoings,  for  we 
wTant  to  be  ready  when  Jesus  comes." 

So  one  of  them  called  the  Lehmans,  and  begin- 
ning again  they  arose,  one  by  one,  and  told  of  their 
past  life.  When  each  one  had  finished  he  would 
turn  around  and  inquire  of  the  rest  if  he  had  told 
everything.  Three  of  them  were  baptized  members, 
and  they  evidently  had  been  having  a  meeting  in 
their  hut  and  became  concerned  about  their  condi- 
tion. They  had  not  been  guilty  of  any  new  sins, 
but  were  in  doubt  as  to  their  standing  before  God, 
and  wanted  pardon  and  cleansing.  They  had  taken 
1  John  1 :  9  very  literally.  When  the  confessions 
were  finished  we  all  knelt  in  prayer;  and  after  we 
had  prayed,  they  too  most  earnestly  besought  the 
Lord  that  they  might  be  set  completely  free  from 
their  past  life.  When  they  arose  to  their  feet  their 


MATOPO   MISSION  109 

faces  were  shining  and  they  said  "  God  had  heard 
and  answered." 

Then,  as  they  sat  there,  they  told  of  their  old  lives 
and  of  the  lives  of  the  people  about  us,  until  we 
felt  that  we  were  just  beginning-  to  know  the  people 
among  whom  we  were  situated.  Conditions  which, 
up  to  that  time,  they  had  been  timid  of  telling,  for 
fear  of  their  people,  they  now  boldly  and  fearlessly 
exposed,  and  they  seemed  to  be  done  once  and  for- 
ever with  their  heathen  past.  Our  hearts  went  up  in 
gratitude  to  the  Father,  and  our  eyes  were  opened 
more  and  more  to  see  the  real  need  of  this  people 
and  the  obstacles  in  their  way  of  becoming  Chris- 
tians. 

People  reared  in  Christian  homes,  with  an  entire 
Bible  which  they  can  read  from  childhood,  with  the 
privileges  of  church  and  Sunday-school,  with  good 
literature  and  hymns  and  many  other  advantages 
which  might  be  mentioned,  cannot  possibly,  by  any 
stretch  of  imagination,  put  themselves  in  the  place 
of  those  who  are  deprived  of  all  these ;  and  not  only 
that,  but  who,  from  infancy,  have  been  in  an  atmos- 
phere of  ignorance  and  superstition,  reeking  with 
influences  the  most  foul  and  loathsome  imaginable. 
Then,  too,  is  it  to  be  wondered  at  that  when  people, 
who  have  been  brought  up  amid  surroundings  the 
most  helpful  possible,  spiritually,  and  the  most  con- 
ducive to  growth  in  grace,  grow  lean  in  soul  and 
backslide — I  say  is  it  to  be  wondered  at  that  the 
Christians  in  heathen  lands,  in  their  desperate  strug- 
gle against  such  adverse  and  degrading  surround- 
ings, sometimes  relapse  into  heathendom?  Not  only 
is  it  not  to  be  wondered  at,  but  it  is  positively  sur- 


110  AFRICA 

prising  and  a  great  cause  for  rejoicing  among  mis- 
sionaries, that  so  many  grasping  hold  of  the  Ever- 
lasting Arm  do  once  and  forever  shake  off  the  bog 
and  filth  of  the  bottomless  pit  and  stand  as  monu- 
ments of  His  power  to  save  to  the  uttermost. 

During  the  dry  season  of  1900  an  aggressive  cam- 
paign against  Satan  and  his  followers  among  the 
rocks  and  strongholds  was  begun,  for  we  felt  that 
the  Lord  would  have  us  press  the  battle  to  the 
gates.  During  the  rainy  seasons,  when  people  are 
busy  in  their  gardens,  and  when  there  is  a  great 
deal  of  sickness,  both  school  and  evangelistic  work 
suffer,  so  that  it  is  necessary  to  make  the  best  use 
of  the  dry  season.  As  soon  as  the  crops  were  gath- 
ered the  school  at  the  mission  increased  in  numbers 
and  interest,  and  Brother  and  Sister  Lehman  opened 
a  school  at  the  village  of  Chief  Hluganisa.  They 
rode  back  and  forth  day  by  day,  and  when  they 
were  unable  to  go  two  of  the  boys  were  sent  to 
teach.  The  attendance  and  interest  there  were  en- 
couraging. 

What  of  this  chief,  who  had  so  kindly  received 
the  missionaries  two  years  before?  It  would  be  a 
pleasure  to  be  able  to  report  that  he  had  opened  his 
heart  to  accept  Christ  as  his  Savior,  but  such  was 
not  the  case.  He  was  very  ready  to  receive  the 
gifts  of  the  white  man,  whether  from  officials,  mis- 
sionaries, or  any  one  else.  He  was  also  quite  will- 
ing that  the  school  should  be  started  in  his  village ; 
for  would  not  this  make  his  people  wiser  and  more 
able  to  secure  the  good  things  of  the  earth?  But 
the  white  man's  religion,  he  would  none  of  it  for 
himself.  He  was  a  most  troublesome  beggar  from 


MATOPO   MISSION  111 

first  to  last.  Elder  Engle  had  made  him  a  present 
of  a  very  good  blanket,  with  which  he  was  greatly 
pleased,  but  he  seldom  came  to  services.  When 
he  came  to  the  mission  it  was  always  with  the  ex- 
pectation of  asking  and  receiving  something. 

One  day  he  came  to  pay  us  sort  of  a  state  visit, 
and  a  little  later  his  three  wives  followed  in  order 
of  their  rank.  We  were  desirous  of  treating  them 
all  kindly  after  their  long  walk  to  pay  us  this  visit, 
so  Mother  Engle  concluded  to  give  them  bread  and 
tea.  A  plate  of  bread,  together  with  a  quantity  of 
tea  and  sugar,  was  placed  before  them.  We  ex- 
pected, of  course,  that  all  would  receive  some.  The 
chief  appropriated  everything ;  emptied  all  the  sugar 
into  the  tea,  drank  all,  and  ate  all  the  bread.  When 
they  started  home  the  wives  went  first,  the  lowest  in 
rank  preceding,  to  prepare  everything  for  their  lord 
and  master,  who  followed  at  his  leisure.  One  day 
one  of  the  missionaries,  tried  by  his  cupidity  and 
avarice,  gave  him  a  straight  talk.  He  did  not  return 
for  some  months  after  this,  not  until  the  funeral  of 
Sister  Cress.  Until  this  day  he  continues  to  be  a 
rank  heathen,  greedy,  and  superstitious,  and  a  lover 
of  wives  and  beer. 

All  three  of  us  by  this  time  were  fairly  well  pre- 
pared in  the  language,  and  some  of  the  boys  were 
beginning  to  be  helpful  in  evangelistic  work.  Early 
in  the  season  the  Lehmans,  with  one  of  the  men  as 
guide,  made  a  tour  to  the  southeast  of  us  in  a 
section  not  yet  visited.  They  reported  an  interest- 
ing and  profitable  trip  and  met  the  people  from  six 
different  kraals.  As  it  was  a  section  of  raw  heathen- 
dom, they  were  surprised  to  find,  at  one  of  the 


112  AFRICA 

kraals,  a  woman  who  joined  heartily  in  the  hymn 
sung  and  was  familiar  with  the  words.  On  inquiry 
they  found  that  when  a  girl  she  had  lived  at  the 
house  of  Rev.  Thomas,  one  of  the  first  missionaries 
of  Matabeleland.  He  had  a  station  at  some  dis- 
tance north  of  Bulawayo,  and  his  memory  is  much 
revered  by  those  natives  who  knew  him.  The  broth- 
er and  sister  had  the  fortune,  or  misfortune,  to  be 
present  at  a  beer  drink.  This  is  their  way  of  getting 
a  lot  of  work  done :  They  make  a  quantity  of  beer ; 
then  call  in  their  neighbors  to  help  work,  paying 
them  with  beer.  It  is  surprising  how  much  beer 
they  can  consume  at  such  times.  They  often  be- 
come quite  boisterous  and  even  intoxicated,  and 
frequently  quarrel  and  fight  as  a  result  of  their  de- 
bauch. On  this  occasion  the  men  were  friendly, 
but  scarcely  in  a  condition  to  receive  the  Gospel. 
The  travelers  returned  tired,  but  rejoicing  in  the 
Lord  because  of  another  opportunity  of  sowing  seed. 
The  life  of  a  missionary  is  not  full  of  exciting 
adventures  and  encouraging  incidents.  It  is  very 
ordinary  at  times  and  very  crushing  at  others.  The 
ups  and  downs  would  soon  wear  him  out  did  he  not 
take  fast  hold  of  God  and,  looking  up  by  faith,  keep 
saying  to  Him,  "  Lord,  this  is  Thy  work.  Do  Thou 
bear  the  burdens,  the  joys,  and  the  sorrows  that 
keep  crowding  thick  and  fast  upon  me,  and  let  me 
be  only  Thy  instrument  and  Thy  weapon  of  war- 
fare." I  remember,  during  the  first  year,  I  at  times 
felt  I  was  not  burdened  enough  for  the  souls  about 
me,  and  once  spent  long  hours  of  prayer,  asking  that 
the  burden  might  rest  more  heavily.  I  retired  to 
rest.  The  next  day  the  Lord  answered  the  prayer 


MATOPO   MISSION  113 

of  His  messenger.  I  thought  it  would  crush  me  to 
the  earth,  but  the  lesson  had  been  learned.  He  knows 
how  much  we  can  bear,  and  we  should  always  say, 
"As  Thou  wilt." 

In  our  visits  among  the  people  one  day  is  much 
like  another,  but  they  must  be  made  in  order  to 
keep  in  touch  with  them.  August  17  I  wrote  as 
follows : 

"  One  more   day's  work   for  Jesus, 

One  less  of  life  for  me, 
But  heaven  is  nearer  and  Christ  is  dearer, 

Than  yesterday  to  me. 
His  life  and  light  fill  all  my  soul  tonight." 

This  being  Saturday,  I  arose  early  to  go  out  among 
the  people.  After  taking  some  food,  I  started  a  little 
after  sunrise  with  Sihlaba  as  guide.  We  went  to  visit 
the  kraal  of  Siponka,  about  two  miles  distant.  These  peo- 
ple have  been  on  my  mind  for  some  time.  They  are 
good-hearted  but  veritable  heathen,  and  care  only  for 
the  good  things  of  this  life.  They  are  entirely  too  indif- 
ferent to  come  either  to  school  or  church,  although  two, 
who  were  members,  live  here.  The  downward  influence 
is  too  strong  for  even  them,  and  seemingly  they  have 
done  according  to  the  proverb. 

Early  as  it  was  in  the  morning,  the  people  were  nearly 
all  away,  but  we  found  at  home  two  men,  some  women, 
and  boys  and  girls.  There  was  an  opportunity  for  giving 
the  Gospel  to  them,  and  the  Lord  greatly  helped  in  the 
presentation  of  His  Word.  They  gradually  became  in- 
terested and  seemed  at  least  to  have  greater  light.  May 
the  Lord  send  home  the  truth  into  their  hearts! 

Siyaya  (one  of  the  backslidden  boys)  went  along  with 
us  to  the  home  of  Amuzeze  (another  member).  Here 
there  were  a  number  of  women,  one  man,  and  some  young 
people.  They  were  more  willing  than  usual  to  listen, 
also  more  able  to  understand,  and  Amuzeze  took  part  in 
prayer. 


114  AFRICA 

From  there  Siyaya  also  went  along  to  Umvunzi's  home. 
Poor  boy!  he  followed  us  around,  seemingly  hungry  for 
the  Word,  but  helplessly  overcome  by  the  gross  darkness 
surrounding  him.  At  this  last  place  there  were  only  a 
few  present.  The  men  from  all  these  kraals  had  gone  a 
long  distance  to  buy  goats.  Here  the  powers  of  dark- 
ness were  so  great  that  I  could  not  shake  off  the  feeling 
and  have  victory  in  speaking.  I  wonder  what  my  spiritual 
status  would  be  at  the  end  of  the  year,  if  I  were  obliged 
to  live  long  amid  such  surroundings;  and  yet  I  have 
Christ  and  His  Spirit  in  my  soul  and  much  of  His  Word 
written  in  my  heart,  while  these  poor  ones  have  only 
generations  of  paganism  back  of  them. 

We  then  turned  our  faces  homeward,  moving  in  some- 
thing of  a  circle  and  coming  first  to  Seba's  village.  This 
is  not  far  from  the  mission,  and  yet  it  is  our  first  visit 
to  this  place.  The  people  seemed  very  glad  to  see  us,  and 
some  here  had  the  privilege  for  the  first  time  of  hearing 
the  Gospel,  and  were  eager  to  catch  every  word.  While 
we  were  speaking,  a  native,  carrying  poles,  was  passing, 
and  he  put  his  poles  down  and  entered  to  listen.  He  was 
a  stranger  to  me.  A  tall  fine-looking  fellow  he  was.  He 
informed  us  that  he  had  moved  near  and  was  building  a 
hut.  Mapita  and  his  wife  also  had  entered  during  the 
services.  Seba  invited  us  to  remain  for  dinner  and  eat 
of  their  inkobe  (boiled  corn),  but  it  was  not  yet  ready, 
so  thanking  him  for  his  hospitality  we  continued  our 
journey. 

First,  the  stranger  invited  us  to  go  over  and  see  his 
wife  and  the  hut  he  was  building,  which  was  only  a  short 
distance  away.  We  did  so  and  here  we  met  two  women 
from  our  nearest  kraal.  We  then  proceeded  on  our  home- 
ward way,  and  had  gone  only  a  short  distance  when  we 
met  John  (a  Christian)  and  his  brothers,  who  followed 
us  home. 

On  the  way  we  stopped  a  few  minutes  at  Mapita's  home 
to  see  the  children,  and  then  reached  the  mission  at  mid- 
day. The  boys  remained  a  short  time  to  talk.  I  then 
tidied  my  hut,  made  a  dress  and  gave  it  to  a  little  girl, 


MATOPO   MISSION  115 

and  entertained  a  number  of  native  women.  After  our 
three  o'clock  dinner  and  worship  I  read  and  studied  the 
language,  and  here  it  is  evening  and  the  close  of  a  very 
enjoyable  day. 

This  account  has  been  given,  not  because  there 
was  anything  unusual  about  it,  but  because  it  is 
typical  of  many  Saturdays  on  the  mission  field,  and 
some  of  them  have  been  days  of  the  most  exquisite 
enjoyment  we  have  ever  known.  Such  days  never 
seem  to  become  monotonous.  One  forgets  the 
long  and  tiresome  walk  if  he  finds  eager  and  inter- 
ested listeners  at  the  end.  Even  if  some  steel  their 
hearts  against  the  Word,  there  is  still  the  conscious- 
ness to  the  messenger  that  he  has  done  what  he 
could.  Then  again  much  of  one's  time  on  the  mis- 
sion station  is  spent  talking  to  the  natives  who 
come.  They  may  not  be  anxious  for  the  Gospel, 
but  one  always  hopes  some  word  or  message  may 
sink  into  their  hearts.' 

The  first  few  years  of  the  mission,  the  country 
was  occasionally  visited  by  locusts,  sometimes  in 
such  large  swarms  as  almost  to  darken  the  face  of 
the  sky.  These  were  not  the  seventeen-year  cicadas, 
which  some  people  are  pleased  to  term  locusts,  but 
large  grasshoppers,  various  kinds  of  which  made 
their  appearance  to  the  great  destruction  of  crops 
and  vegetation.  Sometimes  the  corn  and  the  kafir 
corn  would  be  stripped.  Again,  an  immense  swarm 
would  come  suddenly  and  alight — so  that  in  a  very 
short  time  the  whole  face  of  nature  would  be  trans- 
formed from  a  bright  green  to  a  reddish  brown,  the 
color  of  the  locusts — and  would  then  as  suddenly  fly 
off  without  doing  much  harm.  Wherever  the  lo- 


116  AFRICA 

custs  settled  for  the  night,  the  natives  would  be 
there  early  in  the  morning  with  their  nets  and 
catch  them  for  food. 

The  year  1900  was  especially  one  of  these  locust 
years.  During  the  dry  season,  the  adult  locusts 
selected  suitable  places,  remained  to  feed  for  a 
time,  then  deposited  their  eggs  in  the  earth  and 
died.  As  at  this  time  the  insects  cannot  fly,  the 
natives  catch  them  in  large  numbers  and  carry  them 
home  for  food.  One  such  swarm  settled  about  two 
miles  from  the  mission,  and  thither  day  after  day 
went  the  women  and  girls  to  catch  them.  They 
would  put  them  in  bags  or  large  baskets  and  carry 
them  home.  One  could  often  see  ten  or  twelve 
women  walking  through  our  premises,  each  one 
carrying  on  her  head  a  bushel  or  more  of  locusts. 
They  would  cook  them  in  large  earthen  pots,  then 
spread  them  on  the  rocks  to  dry,  after  which  they 
would  go  for  a  fresh  supply.  When  the  locusts 
were  dry  they  would  be  stored  away  for  food.  In 
eating  them  the  natives  would  remove  head,  wings, 
and  legs  and  eat  them  somewhat  after  the  manner 
of  dried  herring,  and  considered  them  a  great  deli- 
cacy, saying,  "  They  are  our  meat."  We  have  par- 
taken of  them  in  this  manner  and  found  them  not 
unpalatable,  and  they  are  certainly  a  cleaner  food 
than  many  things  eaten  in  civilized  lands.  The 
natives'  favorite  way  of  preparing  the  locusts,  how- 
ever, was  to  stamp  them  in  a  stamping  block,  then 
cook  them,  together  with  ground  peanuts,  into  a 
gravy  to  be  eaten  with  their  porridge. 

Although  many  of  the  locusts  had  been  safely 
stowed  away  in  the  native  storehouses,  during  this 


MATOPO   MISSION  117 

year,  yet  numbers  remained  in  various  parts  of  the 
country  to  lay  their  eggs  in  the  ground.  When  the 
rains  came  and  softened  the  ground  these  eggs 
hatched.  After  a  colony  hatched,  the  little  wingless 
larvae,  or  hoppers,  started  forth  as  an  army,  all 
going  in  one  direction.  These  armies  were  general- 
ly about  a  rod  or  two  in  width  and  much  greater  in 
length,  and  woe  to  the  young  garden  that  came  in 
their  way!  They  would  spread  over  it,  devour  the 
tender  shoots,  and  then  proceed  in  the  same  general 
direction  in  which  they  had  been  traveling.  The 
natural  grass  and  herbage  of  the  country  was  too 
tough  for  them  to  eat.  Not  only  one  but  several 
such  armies  coming  from  different  directions  passed 
through  our  gardens  that  season,  and  some  of  the 
cornfields  had  to  be  planted  two  or  three  times. 
One  was  finally  left  unplanted,  while  our  potatoes 
and  many  of  the  garden  vegetables  were  destroyed. 
At  first  we  endeavored  to  fight  them  with  fires  when 
they  were  seen  to  be  approaching  a  garden,  but  this 
was  soon  found  to  be  useless.  The  missionaries  felt 
the  loss  of  their  crops  and  vegetables,  but  their 
loss  could  not  be  compared  with  that  of  the  poor 
natives,  many  of  whom  could  not  procure  grain  for 
a  second  planting,  and  they  had  nothing  else  to  de- 
pend upon. 

During  this  year  we  were  seriously  contemplating 
an  advanced  step  in  the  work,  by  opening  the  way 
for  more  boys  and  girls  to  come  as  boarders.  They 
would  thus  be  given  a  Christian  home  and  be 
trained  to  work  and  to  habits  of  cleanliness.  Up  to 
this  time  the  largest  number  staying  at  one  time 
was  four  boys ;  and  one  girl  had  come  lately.  The 


118  AFRICA 

day  was  not  far  distant  when  it  would  be  necessary 
to  erect  better  and  more  permanent  dwellings,  as 
the  huts  were  already  showing  signs  of  decay;  and 
if  more  boys  could  be  received  and  these  trained  to 
make  brick  and  assist  in  building,  it  would  be  an 
advantage  both  to  the  boys  and  to  the  mission.  As 
the  year  drew  near  to  a  close  there  began  to  be  a 
desire  on  the  part  of  some  of  the  older  boys  to  at- 
tend school  and  perhaps  come  to  stay  with  us.  We 
knew  enough  of  the  native  character  to  believe  that 
it  was  best  not  to  throw  out  any  special  inducement, 
as  it  is  always  best  for  them  to  desire  a  thing  for 
themselves  and  to  be  fully  persuaded  in  their  own 
minds  so  that  they  might  not  be  wavering. 

On  New  Year's  Day,  1901,  after  the  close  of  the 
services,  a  boy,  probably  nineteen  years  of  age, 
stood  at  the  open  door  of  my  hut  with  rather  a  wist- 
ful look  on  his  face.  He  was  well  dressed  and  had 
been  working  for  white  people,  but  had  shown  no 
interest  in  school  or  in  the  Gospel  up  to  this  time. 
Something  in  his  face  that  day  prompted  me  to  say, 

"  Ndhlalambi,  when  are  you  coming  to  stay  at  the 
mission  and  give  your  heart  to  the  Lord?" 

He  promptly  replied,  "  I  am  coming  one  week 
from  tomorrow." 

Afterwards,  in  giving  his  experience,  he  said, 
"  While  I  was  working  at  the  mines  I  became  con- 
victed of  my  wrongdoing  and  made  up  my  mind 
that  I  would  come  to  the  missionaries  and  go  to 
school  and  give  my  heart  to  Jesus.  When  I  came 
I  was  afraid  to  ask  and  the  Lord  told  Miss  to  ask 
me." 

He  did  come  and  did  yield  his  heart  to  the  Lord, 


MATOPO    MISSION  119 

and  seemed  to  settle  it  in  his  mind,  if  one  may  judge 
by  subsequent  actions.  "  I  care  not  what  course 
others  may  take,  but  as  for  me  I  will  serve  the 
Lord."  He  made  a  good  confession  and  was  always 
ready  to  step  out  into  the  light  as  it  shone  on  his 
pathway.  His  way,  however,  was  not  an  easy  one. 
He  met  with  violent  opposition  at  times  from  an 
irascible  pagan  father,  and  persecution  in  various 
ways,  but  he  stood  firm.  A  special  test  came  to 
him  a  year  or  two  after  he  started  to  school.  One 
day  he  came  in  great  distress  and  said, 

"  Father  is  very  angry  with  me.  My  mother's 
brother  died  and  left  me  a  lot  of  cattle  and  other 
property,  and  my  parents  wish  me  to  go  and  claim 
the  property.  But  if  I  go,  they  will  have  a  big 
dance  and  claim  to  call  back  the  spirit  of  my  uncle 
and  ask  him  his  will  about  the  property,  and  they 
will  want  me  to  take  part  in  their  worship.  I  desire 
to  follow  the  Lord." 

I  said,  "  If  you  do  not  go  perhaps  you  will  not  re- 
ceive the  property." 

"  That  makes  no  difference,"  he  replied.  "  I  love 
the  Lord  more  than  I  love  the  cattle.  Only  pray 
that  father  will  not  be  angry  with  me  for  refusing 
to  go." 

Later  he  came  with  his  face  all  aglow  and  said, 
"  The  Lord  has  heard  our  prayers.  Father  is  not 
angry  with  me  any  more." 

In  school  he  was  slow  but  persevering,  and  in 
work  likewise.  He  had  his  faults,  and  seemed  at 
times  to  be  lacking  in  humility,  yet  he  never  seemed 
to  waver  in  his  determination  to  follow  the  Lord. 

Several  other  young  men  also  applied  for  admis- 


120  AFRICA 

sion,  among  whom  was  Gomo,  a  brother  of  Tebengo 
and  Muza  and  Emyonleni ;  also  two  younger  boys 
who  were  already  Christians,  Masikwa  and  Madhli- 
wa.  There  were  now  nine  boys,  and  several  months 
afterward  three  girls  came.  These  girls  were  trained 
by  Sister  Lehman  to  do  housework.  The  work  was 
looking  quite  encouraging,  for  all  showed  an  interest 
in  desiring  to  become  Christians. 

As  this  rainy  season  came  on,  it  could  not  fail  to 
remind  us  of  the  loss  and  of  the  trying  times  of 
the  previous  year.  Some  of  our  number  thought  it 
best  to  go  to  a  more  healthy  place  until  the  rains 
were  over.  This,  however,  would  almost  necessi- 
tate closing  the  work,  which  was  not  to  be  thought 
of. 

In  the  midst  of  the  rains,  in  March,  Sister  Leh- 
man took  down  with  the  fever  one  day  and  on  the 
following  day  her  husband  was  also  laid  low.  The 
buildings  at  Matopo  are  in  a  healthy  place,  yet 
during  the  rainy  season  one  is  always  more  or  less 
exposed  to  fever,  either  by  traveling  and  sleeping 
out,  or  even  by  going  down  to  the  gardens  in  the 
valley  in  the  evening.  At  that  time  we  did  not 
understand  so  well  how  to  check  or  combat  the 
fever  as  in  later  years.  So  the  sick  ones  grew  worse 
and  required  my  constant  attention  day  and  night 
for  about  ten  or  more  days.  Fortunately  the  boys 
were  good  helpers,  as  there  were  no  girls  at  the 
time.  Matshuba  was  able  to  take  charge  of  the 
school ;  Ndhlalambi  and  one  of  the  little  boys  could 
help  me  in  the  kitchen  and  sickroom ;  Gomo  did  the 
washing  outside  of  the  window  where  I  could  see 


MATOPO   MISSION  121 

and  direct;  and  the  other  boys  attended  to  the 
gardens. 

As  the  sick  ones  grew  worse  we  sent  a  boy  for  a 
doctor,  but  on  account  of  the  damp,  rainy  weather, 
he  delayed  several  days  before  coming,  so  that  the 
fever  was  broken  by  the  time  he  reached  the  mis- 
sion. It  was  a  trying  time  and  one  of  looking  to 
the  Lord  on  the  part  of  the  sick  and  the  well  ones. 
To  make  matters  worse  some  of  the  boys  became 
quite  ill,  and  we  were  unable  to  give  them  the  at- 
tention they  needed.  One  day  Kelenki,  who  was 
very  low,  managed  to  crawl  to  the  kitchen  and 
begged  to  be  allowed  to  lie  there  by  the  stove.  Mrs. 
Eyles  kindly  came  out  from  Bulawayo  when  at  last 
the  doctor  was  able  to  reach  us.  She  remained  for 
a  week  during  their  convalescence  and  cared  for  the 
sick.  This  gave  me  a  much-needed  rest  and  an  op- 
portunity to  turn  my  attention  to  the  boy,  who  was 
still  quite  ill  and  needed  help.  It  was  a  day  of 
rejoicing  when  our  brother  and  sister  and  all  were 
restored  to  health,  and  we  were  thankful  that  the 
Lord  had  mercy  upon  us,  lest  we  should  have  sor- 
row upon  sorrow. 

During  the  time  we  were  passing  through  these 
afflictions,  another  difficulty  was  staring  us  in  the 
face,  which  threatened,  if  possible,  to  be  more  se- 
rious than  any  which  we  had  yet  been  called  upon 
to  meet.  This  was  the  land  question.  Mention 
was  made  that  we  were  looking  toward  the  erection 
of  more  permanent  buildings.  We  had  sent  to  the 
Board  for  money  for  this  purpose ;  also  for  money 
to  survey  the  land.  Up  to  this  time  the  3,000  acres 
upon  which  the  mission  had  been  located  by  the 


122  AFRICA 

government,  had  not  been  surveyed.  It  had  been 
given  only  as  a  reservation  for  mission  purpose, 
and  permission  had  also  been  granted  that  the  mis- 
sionaries could  stake  off  a  plot  of  3,000  acres  and 
make  a  diagram  without  going  to  the  expense  of 
employing  a  government  surveyor,  as  that  kind  of 
work  is  costly  in  Africa.  For  this  purpose,  the  year 
previous,  four  of  us,  Brethren  Engle  and  Cress,  to- 
gether with  Sister  Heise  and  myself,  started  out  to 
stake  out  the  land,  supposing,  as  we  had  been  in- 
formed by  the  official  who  located  the  mission,  that 
the  two  beacons  north  of  us  were  the  limit  of  the 
surveyed  territory.  We  climbed  hills,  went  over 
precipices,  and  waded  swamps  under  a  hot  August 
sun  and  made  a  diagram  of  the  desired  farm,  only  to 
find  at  the  close  that  the  result  was  not  satisfactory 
to  the  government.  It  was  necessary  for  a  govern- 
ment survey  to  be  made,  and  this  had  not  been 
done ;  but  we  had  sent  for  money  for  the  purpose, 
and  the  money  had  just  arrived. 

The  day  on  which  Sister  Lehman  took  sick,  two 
Europeans  brought  some  cattle  and  put  them  in  our 
pen,  from  which  the  company's  cattle  had  been  re- 
moved the  previous  year.  They  did  not  ask  for 
permission  to  place  these  cattle  on  the  mission  farm, 
and  to  us  it  seemed  rather  a  bold  step.  They  in- 
formed us,  however,  that  they  thought  a  mistake 
had  been  made  in  locating  the  mission,  and  that  we 
were  on  surveyed  land.  They  stated  that  they  were 
not  certain  in  reference  to  the  matter,  as  the  owners 
did  not  know  the  exact  boundary  of  their  farm. 

The  Charter  Company,  of  Rhodesia  had,  especially 
at  the  close  of  the  war,  made  large  concessions  of 


MATOPO   MISSION  123 

land  to  companies,  syndicates,  and  individuals. 
These  grants  often  comprised  many  thousands  of 
acres,  and  in  many  instances  the  owners,  in  the 
early  days,  did  not  know  the  location  of  their  land. 
They  simply  sent  out  a  surveyor  to  measure  and 
stake  off  the  requisite  amount  and  erect  beacons ; 
then  the  land  was  left  entirely  unimproved.  If  they 
were  fortunate  enough  afterwards  to  know  the 
boundaries  of  the  farms,  they  often  sent  out  an  agent 
to  collect  tax  of  the  natives  living  on  it.  The  best 
of  the  land  being  disposed  of,  very  little  remained 
for  farmers,  who  would  have  improved  the  land,  or 
for  missionaries,  who  would  both  improve  it  and  in- 
struct the  natives.  No  doubt  the  government,  when 
too  late,  realized  their  lack  of  wisdom  in  making 
some  of  these  grants,  as  it  greatly  retarded  the  work 
of  building  up  and  developing  the  country. 

This  was  the  condition  of  affairs  when  Matopo 
Mission  was  located.  We  had,  however,  no  intima- 
tion that  a  mistake  might  have  been  made  in  the 
location,  until  informed  by  the  two.  Europeans  pre- 
viously mentioned.  One  of  them  desired  to  collect 
hut  tax  for  the  company  owning  the  land,  but  this 
he  could  not  do,  as  he  was  not  certain  of  the  bound- 
aries, and  the  company,  at  the  time,  was  not  willing 
to  bear  the  expense  of  having  a  surveyor  come  out 
to  locate  the  land.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  it  was 
a  dark  and  trying  time  for  the  missionaries.  If  we 
were  on  surveyed  land,  we  might  have  to  change 
the  mission  site  and  much  of  the  work  already  ac- 
complished w~ould  be  lost.  Again,  how  were  we  to 
find  out  where  we  were?  If  a  wealthy  company  did 
not  care  to  bear  the  expense  of  locating  their  land, 


124  AFRICA 

how  much  less  able  were  missionaries,  whose  purses, 
at  the  best,  are  never  too  full !  Should  we  go  to 
the  expense  of  sending  for  a  surveyor  to  locate  us, 
we  might  be  forced  to  move  the  mission,  and  the 
outlay  incurred  would  benefit  the  company  alone. 
We  were  in  these  wilds ;  could  we  succeed  in  locat- 
ing ourselves? 

As  usual,  when  difficulties  thus  confronted  us,  we 
looked  to  Him  who  never  fails.  Any  one  in  the 
mission  field  has  often  reasons  to  be  thankful  for 
the  varied  training  and  experiences  of  the  home 
land ;  for  no  knowledge  or  previous  experience  of 
whatever  sort  comes  amiss  when  he  is  out  where 
there  is  little  outside  help.  We  had  studied,  hence 
had  a  little  knowledge  of  surveying.  Would  that 
knowledge  help  us  here  in  these  fastnesses? 

Mr.  Jackson,  the  magistrate  at  Fort  Usher,  who 
had  always  been  a  friend  in  need,  was  appealed  to. 
He  did  not  know  the  boundaries  of  the  farms  in  the 
immediate  vicinity,  but  he"  knew  the  location  of 
one  important  beacon  several  miles  north,  for  he 
had  had  occasion  to  settle  a  difficulty  in  reference 
to  it  some  time  previous.  So,  with  this  knowledge 
to  begin  with,  we  went  to  the  government  surveyor 
and  secured  a  diagram  of  all  the  farms  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  mission.  Thus  equipped,  and  securing  a  com- 
pass, we  started  for  home.  Brother  Lehman  made 
a  temporary  chain,  and  together  with  some  of  the 
boys  we  went  to  the  beacon  pointed  out  by  Mr. 
Jackson.  From  this  a  survey  was  made  south,  and 
it  was  discovered  that  the  mission  was  on  a  tract  of 
land  known  as  "  Matopo  Block,"  owned  by  the 
Bulawayo  Syndicate.  This  was  a  farm  of  25,000 


MATOPO    MISSION  125 

acres,  and  it  was  about  twelve  miles  long.  As  there 
were  no  beacons  for  a  distance  of  seven  miles  on  the 
south  of  the  mission,  it  was  not  difficult  to  under- 
stand how  the  mistake  was  made  in  the  location. 
By  further  survey  we  discovered  that  we  were  on 
the  extreme  east  end  of  this  farm,  and  a  line  drawn 
nearly  southeast  from  the  beacon  north  of  us  would 
give  the  mission  the  required  3,000  acres.  Another 
surveyed  farm  lay  adjoining  this  on  the  east. 

We  had  located  the  mission,  but  it  remained  to 
induce  the  government  to  arrange  with  the  syndi- 
cate and  give  them  land  elsewhere  in  exchange  for 
the  amount  promised  to  the  mission.  It  is  needless 
to  enter  into  the  details  of  the  slow  process  neces- 
sary for  settling  the  difficulty,  for  any  one  dealing 
with  the  affairs  of  government  knows  something 
of  the  tediousness  and  red  tape  required.  Letters 
were  addressed  to  both  the  government  and  to  Mr. 
Rhodes,  who  was  then  on  his  estate  near  Bulawayo. 
The  government  officials  met  the  question  in  a  spirit 
of  conciliation  and  fairness,  promising  to  do  all  in 
their  power  to  bring  it  to  a  satisfactory  settlement. 
We  were  asked  later  to  make  further  survey,  to  be 
certain  that  we  had  given  the  correct  location.  At 
one  time  it  appeared  that  the  exchange  could  not  be 
made,  and  we  were  requested  to  look  up  another 
location.  Looking  to  the  Lord,  we  made  another 
appeal,  which  resulted,  in  September  of  the  same 
year,  in  the  mission  being  allowed  to  retain  its  lo- 
cation. At  first  this  was  to  have  been  only  a  reser- 
vation, but  the  final  papers,  which  were  not  made 
out  until  late  in  1902,  resulted  in  giving  a  ninety- 
nine-year  lease,  which  was  much  more  satisfactory. 


CHAPTER    TEN 
Reinforcements  and  Industrial  Work 

It  is  not  the  mere  preacher  that  is  wanted  here.  The 
bishops  of  Great  Britain,  collected  with  all  the  classic 
youth  of  Oxford  and  Cambridge,  would  effect  nothing  by 
mere  talking  with  the  intelligent  people  of  Uganda.  It  is 
the  practical  Christian  tutor,  who  can  teach  people  how  to 
become  Christians,  cure  their  diseases,  construct  dwell- 
ings, understand  and  exemplify  agriculture,  turn  his  hand 
to  anything,  like  a  sailor — this  is  the  man  who  is  wanted. 
Such  an  one,  if  he  can  be  found,  would  become  the  savior 
of  Africa. — Henry  M.  Stanley. 

DURING  the  progress  of  the  land  question 
and  the  negotiations  with  the  government, 
important  changes  were  taking  place  in  the 
personae  of  the  mission.  In  June  of  1901  we  were 
pleased  to  receive  much-needed  reinforcements  in 
the  persons  of  Mr.  Levi  Doner  and  Miss  Emma 
Long.  Accompanying  them  were  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Jacob  Lehman,  who  were  on  their  way  to  engage 
in  mission  work  at  the  Compounds  in  Johannesburg. 
On  account  of  the  war  they  were  not  yet  permitted 
to  enter  Johannesburg,  so  they  came  to  Matopo  for  a 
time. 

At  the  same  time  Brother  Isaac  Lehman  and  wife 
thought  it  best  to  go  to  Cape  Town  for  a  rest,  as 
she  had  not  fully  recovered  from  her  attack  of  the 
fever.  We  were  very  sorry  to  lose  so  valuable  co- 
laborers  at  this  time,  for  they  had  the  language  and 
126 


MATOPO   MISSION  127 

experience  in  mission  work,  and  it  always  requires 
time  for  new  missionaries  to  take  hold  of  the  various 
duties.  I  especially  felt  the  loss  of  Brother  Leh- 
mans,  as  I  was  the  only  one  left  who  could  speak 
to  the  natives.  Brother  Doner,  however,  made  rapid 
strides  in  the  language,  and  soon  acquired  a  work- 
ing knowledge  of  it,  and  was  also  a  willing  and  effi- 
cient messenger  along  all  lines.  Very  early  in  the 
work  he  was  laid  low  with  fever,  but  he  recovered. 
Then  Sister  Long  was  quite  sick  for  a  time.  These 
experiences,  coming  so  early  in  their  missionary  ca- 
reer, were  somewhat  discouraging. 

The  mission  family  was  steadily  increasing.  A 
number  of  other  boys  had  come  to  stay  at  the  mis- 
sion and  become  pupils  and  industrial  workers. 
From  the  very  first  in  receiving  boys  at  the  mission 
station,  it  was  our  plan  to  have  them  in  school 
three  and  one-half  hours  and  the  rest  of  the  time, 
which  was  five  or  six  hours,  they  were  engaged  in 
some  industrial  work.  As  the  natural  inclination  of 
the  native  is  toward  laziness  and  filthiness  in  per- 
sonal habits,  we  were  opening  the  door  and  taking 
all  who  desired  to  come  and  giving  them  a  home, 
our  aim  being  to  take  them  out  of  their  degraded 
home  surroundings  and  give  them  the  threefold 
training,  spiritual,  intellectual,  and  industrial,  all  of 
which  seemed  necessary  to  help  them  become 
strong,  established  Christians. 

These  natives,  for  sanitary  and  other  reasons,  are 
always  given  their  own  separate  huts,  away  from 
the  Europeans;  they  have  their  own  native  food 
and  live  their  own  life.  Some  of  them  are  appointed 
to  grind  and  cook  their  food  and  do  the  work  of 


128  AFRICA 

their  kitchen.  It  could  not  be  otherwise  in  such  a 
country.  Even  the  most  civilized  natives  as  a  rule 
prefer  to  eat  by  themselves.  The  missionaries 
sometimes  accept  the  hospitality  of  the  natives  in 
their  homes  and  eat  of  the  food  set  before  them, 
but  even  there  the  natives  will  wait  until. the  mis- 
sionaries have  finished  eating-,  or  else  they  will  eat 
in  a  separate  place. 

Since  the  pupils  have  time  to  do  considerable 
work,  they  receive,  in  addition  to  food  and  school- 
ing, a  small  sum  of  money  sufficient  to  clothe  them- 
selves ;  and  on  Saturday  afternoon,  after  washing 
their  clothing,  they  have  the  time  for  recreation  and 
mending  their  clothing. 

Up  to  this  time  the  industrial  work  of  the  boys 
had  been  chiefly  on  the  farm  and  in  the  gardens ; 
but  now  a  new  line  of  work  was  being  introduced, 
that  of  brick-making.  Brother  Doner  desired  to 
start  in  this  work  at  least.  It  was  at  this  time  some- 
what of  an  experiment,  as  the  various  kinds  of  soil 
had  to  be  tested  so  that  he  might  know  which  was 
best  suited  for  this  purpose.  It  was  also  too  late  in 
the  season  to  spend  much  time  in  this  work.  A 
few  thousand  of  brick  were  made ;  and  as  rains 
threatened  to  come  early,  they  were  hastily  built  in- 
to a  kiln  and  burnt.  A  beginning  had  been  made, 
however,  and  some  knowledge  of  brick-making 
gained. 

During  November  of  this  year  an  event  occurred 
which  was  second  to  none  in  the  history  of  the  work. 
I  refer  to  the  arrival  of  Elder  and  Mrs.  Steigerwald, 
sent  out  to  have- charge  of  the  mission. 

We  had  been  looking  forward  and  hoping  that 


MATOPO   MISSION  129 

some  one  might  come  in  this  capacity.  In  the  mean- 
time we  were  carrying  on  the  work  as  well  as  we 
were  able  during  the  nineteen  months  since  the 
death  of  Elder  Engle.  The  brother  and  sister  took 
hold  of  the  work  courageously  from  the  first.  It  is 
not  an  easy  task  to  begin  mission  work  in  heathen 
lands,  among  a  strange  people,  strange  tongue, 
strange  surroundings  and  ways  of  living.  It  is  no 
less  easy  to  step  into  a  work  already  begun  amidst 
such  different  surroundings  and  new  ways  of  doing 
things,  and  find  the  work  pressing  in  on  all  sides. 
Such  were  the  conditions  that  met  Elder  Steiger- 
wald  from  the  first,  but  it  soon  became  evident  that 
he  was  equal  to  the  task. 

Constant  changes  in  the  mission  field  are  trying, 
both  to  the  people  and  to  the  missionaries  them- 
selves. Here  two  had  been  called  away  by  death, 
four  had  returned  home  (including  Brother  and  Sis- 
ter Van  Blunk),  and  the  two  Lehmans  and  their 
wives  had  gone  to  Cape  Town.  The  people  could 
not  help  feeling  these  changes  and  scarcely  knew 
what  to  expect.  The  changes  seem  to  have  been 
unavoidable,  yet  it  makes  the  people  suspicious  of 
those  who  remain.  The  natives,  like  all  those  in 
heathen  countries,  love  to  think  that  their  mission- 
aries have  come  to  stay  and  be  one  with  them.  The 
true  missionary  bears  much  the  same  relation  to 
his  people  as  the  parent  does  "to  the  child ;  for  they 
are  his  spiritual  children.  Then  too  the  language. is 
not  mastered  in  one,  two,  three  years,  or  even  in  a 
longer  period  of  time.  In  fact,  many  do  not  master 
it  in  a  lifetime,  so  that  all  these  changes  could  not 
fail  to  have  their  effect  on  the  work  and  the  natives, 


130  AFRICA 

and  render  the  position  of  Brother  Steigerwald  a 
difficult  one. 

His  first  important  work  was  to  unite  in  mar- 
riage, on  Christmas  Day,  Brother  Doner  and  Sister 
Long.  There  were  many  more  natives  present  on 
this  occasion  than  at  the  previous  marriage  to  wit- 
ness the  ceremony  and  to  congratulate  their  mis- 
sionaries. 

Money  had  been  forthcoming  for  permanent 
buildings  which  were  greatly  needed.  The  huts 
were  not  only  showing  signs  of  decay,  but  some 
were  damp  and  unhealthful  during  the  rainy  season, 
and  even  became  mouldy  at  times.  It  was  evident 
that,  however  convenient  and  useful  they  had  been 
in  their  time,  their  day  was  fast  passing  away,  and 
for  the  comfort  and  health  of  the  missionaries  some- 
thing more  permanent  must  be  erected.  The  rains 
had  started  before  Elder  Steigerwald's  arrival,  so 
no  more  bricks  could  be  made  until  the  rains  were 
over.  Brother  Doner  was  busy  with  the  farming, 
and  this  left  Brother  Steigerwald  free  to  make 
preparations  for  building. 

There  is  an  abundance  of  fine  granite  stones  and 
slabs  in  the  vicinity;  and  as  the  new  year  of  1902 
opened,  he  had  these  hauled  together  for  a  founda- 
tion. During  the  rainy  season,  whenever  the  rains 
stopped  for  a  time,  he  built  at  the  foundation  of  the 
house.  Although  he  had  natives  to  assist,  yet  he 
found  the  work  to  be  very  heavy  and  taxing  to  his 
strength,  but  by  the  end  of  the  rainy  season  he  had  a 
most  excellent  foundation  for  a  house  laid.  Then 
he  and  Brother  Doner,  with  the  help  of  the  school- 
boys and  some  other  natives,  made  and  burnt  a 


MATOPO    MISSION 


131 


large  kiln  of  bricks  and  were  ready  to  begin  the 
house. 

The  brethren  in  Africa  can  tell  you  that  building 
on  a  mission  station  in  the  wilds  of  Africa  is  quite  a 
different  affair  from  what  it  is  in  civilized  countries, 
or  even  in  the  cities  of  Africa.  In  these  latter 
places,  a  man,  desiring  to  build,  buys  his  timber,  his 


Matopo  Mission  House.     Front  View. 

ready-made  brick,  and  other  material.  Then  the 
stone  masons  come  and  lay  the  foundation.  The 
bricklayers,  carpenters,  plumbers,  plasterers,  and 
painters  all  follow  in  their  order,  together  with  their 
helpers,  and  the  work  is  completed  in  an  incredibly 
short  space  of  time.  On  the  mission  field  all  this  usu- 
ally falls  to  the  lot  of  one  man,  from  the  blasting  out 
of  the  stone  for  the  foundation  and  the  brickmaking 


132  AFRICA 

until  the  building  is  completed.  He  is  mason,  brick- 
layer, carpenter,  plumber,  plasterer,  all  in  one.  That 
one  often  is  not  a  trained  mechanic,  or  even  a  prac- 
tical one,  but  many  times  he  comes  direct  "from  the 
farm,  schoolroom,  or  pulpit.  With  the  many  du- 
ties of  a  missionary  pressing  in  upon  him,  sufficient 
to  occupy  all  his  attention,  he  must  in  addition  un- 
dertake the  laborious  task  of  building  a  house,  and 
even  make  most  of  the  furniture  with  which  it  is 
fitted  up. 

Some  one  may  inquire,  Is  it  not  possible  to  secure 
skilled  workmen  to  do  the  building?  Yes,  in  some 
instances  this  can  be  done ;  but  the  high  cost  of  liv- 
ing in  Africa  raises  the  wages  of  skilled  mechanics 
to  such  an  extreme  height  as  to  make  it  practically 
impossible  for  the  missionary  to  employ  them. 
Again,  he  has  around  him  raw  natives,  who  need  to 
be  taught  to  work,  and  his  ambition  is  to  do  mission 
work  in  connection  with  his  building. 

Elder  Steigerwald  was  equal  to  the  emergency, 
and  together  with  the  help  of  Brother  Doner  and 
the  natives,  he  completed  the  house  in  a  little  over 
a  year  from  the  time  he  began  to  haul  the  stone. 
The  house  is  large,  having  nine  good-sized  rooms, 
with  a  fireplace  in  each  one.  There  is  a  broad 
veranda  nearly  all  around  it  and  an  iron  roof  over 
the  whole,  and  it  is  a  building  that  would  be  a 
credit  to  any  one.  The  building  is  high  and  dry 
and  has  good  board  floors  in  four  of  the  rooms, 
which  add  much  to  the  healthfulness  of  it.  Brother 
Steigerwald  could  no  doubt  tell  you,  if  he  would,  of 
many  days  of  arduous  toil,  which  threatened  to 
undermine  his  health ;  of  many  difficult  and  per- 


MATOPO    MISSION  133 

plexing  questions  which  confronted  him  in  the 
process  of  construction ;  of  lying  awake  at  night, 
planning  how  everything  was  to  be  accomplished ; 
especially  how  he  was  to  build  three  fireplaces  open- 
ing into  one  chimney  and  all  have  a  good  draft — a 
feat  which  he  most  successfully  accomplished. 

There  were  natives  who  lightened  some  of  the 
heavier  parts  of  the  work,  but  to  train  these  to  per- 
form their  work  properly  is  often  a  greater  task 
than  to  do  it  one's  self.  This  training  must  be  done, 
however,  if  the  missionary  is  faithful  to  his  trust 
of  developing  the  native  character  along  useful 
lines  as  well  as  in  giving  him  the  Gospel.  One  of 
the  officials,  in  making  a  report  of  the  work,  stated, 
"  Here,  at  least,  are  missionaries  who  believe  in 
teaching  the  natives  the  dignity  of  labor."  This 
is  the  course  pursued  at  all  our  stations.  To  train 
them  properly  is  no  easy  task.  It  requires  much 
wisdom,  patience,  firmness,  and  love.  One  meets 
with  many  discouraging  results  and  often  with 
great  ingratitude  on  the  part  of  those  instructed ; 
yet  in  the  end  it  pays,  if  natives  are  ever  to  be 
brought  to  a  more  civilized  plane  of  living. 

There  is  one  thing  which  operates  strongly 
against  the  natives  respecting  labor.  The  average 
European,  on  coming  to  Africa,  even  though  he 
may  have  been  a  day  laborer  and  hard-working  man 
in  the  country  from  which  he  came,  soon  sees  that 
the  more  menial  tasks  fall  to  the  natives ;  and  when 
he  takes  the  hoe  or  pick  or  shovel,  he  is  told,  "  We 
do  not  do  that  here.  Let  the  nigger  do  it  and  you 
oversee."  The  majority  do  not  need  a  second  invi- 
tation, and  so  such  work  is  relegated  to  his  black 


134  AFRICA 

neighbor.  The  native  soon  sees,  or  thinks  that  he 
sees,  that  the  white  man  regards  manual  labor  as 
beneath  him.  This  training  is  exactly  what  the 
African  finds  in  his  own  home.  He  leaves  the  dis- 
tasteful and  hard  tasks  to  his  wife  and  the  younger 
members  of  his  family,  while  he  sits  down  and  en- 
joys himself.  He  is  thus  confirmed  in  his  belief  that 
labor  is  degrading. 

Not  so  with  the  missionary.  He  works  continu- 
ally along  many  lines,  and  seeks  to  teach  the  native 
by  his  example,  as  well  as  by  precept,  the  dignity  of 
labor,  and  that  only  indolence,  dirt,  vice,  and  kin- 
dred evils  are  degrading.  It  is  true  that  on  account 
of  climatic  conditions  and  the  many,  duties  falling 
continually  to  men  and  women  on  the  mission  field, 
they  are  obliged,  as  their  field  of  labor  widens,  to 
leave  many  lines  of  work  to  the  natives  they  have 
in  training.  If  they  did  not  do  this  the  spiritual 
part  of  the  work  and  their  own  health  would  greatly 
suffer  in  consequence. 

Perhaps  some  one  might  ask,  Do  those  ignorant 
blacks  ever  learn  to  be  cleanly  and  do  their  work 
properly?  Yes,  some  of  them  respond  in  a  surpris- 
ingly short  period  of  time  to  faithful,  energetic,  yet 
patient  training,  and  become  real  helpers  to  the  mis- 
sionary, both  in  the  house  and  outside.  Some,  in 
addition  to  handling  the  oxen  on  the  farm,  also  learn 
to  use  hammer,  saw,  chisel,  and  plane,  and  work 
side  by  side  with  white  mechanics  in  certain  lines  of 
work. 

While  the  house  was  being  built  at  the  Matopo 
Mission,  Matshuba,  still  quite  a  young  lad,  was  an 
interested  spectator  of  everything  that  was  done, 


MATOPO   MISSION  135 

and  he  himself  did  carefully  whatever  he  was  able 
to  perform.  When  he  found  a  small  piece  of  lumber 
which  was  not  likely  to  be  used,  he  would  say, 
"  Mufundisi  [Missionary],  may  I  have  this?"  If 
permission  was  granted  he  carefully  put  it  away, 
but  said  nothing.  After  several  pieces  had  been  ob- 
tained, he  asked  permission  to  use  tools  and  work- 
shop on  Saturday  afternoon,  when  other  work  was 
stopped.  He  worked  away  in  the  shop,  asking  ques- 
tions of  no  one.  After  a  few  weeks  had  passed  he 
finally  surprised  us  by  showing  a  neatly-made  chair, 
patterned  after  one  that  had  been  purchased  in  town. 
He  gradually  learned  to  do  all  kinds  of  work,  as 
well  as  to  build  himself  a  good  dwelling  house. 

There  are  almost  insurmountable  difficulties,  how- 
ever, in  the  way  of  teaching  the  trades  to  the  na- 
tives as  a  means  of  earning  money.  The  cry  of  the 
country  is  for  industrial  schools  and  for  native 
skilled  labor,  but  almost  in  the  same  breath  the 
European  will  tell  you  that  he  will  not  work  side 
by  side  with  the  native  in  the  same  line  of  work. 
A  gentleman  in  Bulawayo  had  a  contract  for  a  fine, 
large  building.  His  mechanics  were  white,while  the 
blacks  were  the  attendants.  Being  in  need  of  more 
skilled  labor,  he  sent  south  to  the  more  civilized 
portion  of  the  country  for  a  native  mechanic,  and 
of  course  paid  his  way  to  Bulawayo.  The  white 
mechanics  absolutely  refused  to  work  with  this  na- 
tive and  threatened  to  strike.  The  only  course  left 
for  the  contractor  was  to  pay  the  native  some  wages 
and  his  fare  home.  This  was  no  heathen  native, 
but  one  who  had  grown  up  amid  civilized  surround- 
ings, and  no  doubt  his  parents  also  were  civilized. 


136  AFRICA 

We  do  not  wish  to  criticise  such  mechanics,  for 
here,  in  a  land  where  the  blacks  so  far  outnumber 
the  white  population,  there  are  many  things  to  be 
considered.  But  with  these  facts  staring  the  mis- 
sionary in  the  face,  there  is  little  inducement  for 
him  to  spend  a  great  deal  of  time  in  training  na- 
tives. The  only  course  left  which  will  give  the  na- 
tive any  chance  at  all  in  some  sections  of  the  country 
is  for  a  contractor  to  have  all  native  mechanics.  He 
might  then  be  employed  by  the  more  broad-minded 
Europeans,  but  be  boycotted  by  others.  Notwith- 
standing these  difficulties,  industrial  training  in  its 
broadest  sense  is  very  important  on  the  mission 
field,  and  it  is  encouraged  by  the  governments.  It 
enables  the  natives  to  improve  their  condition  and 
way  of  living  and  to  earn  more  money. 

While  these  changes  and  the  industrial  training 
were  in  progress,  the  intellectual  and  spiritual  part 
of  the  work  was  not  neglected.  New  boys  were 
continually  coming,  and  some  who  came  during 
these  years  were  destined  to  be  of  help  in  after  years. 
First  was  Nyamzana,  who  began  to  follow  the 
Lord  before  coming  as  a  boarder.  Although  not  so 
quick  in  books  as  some,  yet  he  was  a  faithful  and 
devoted  Christian,  never  giving  his  missionaries 
any  uneasiness  as  to  his  spiritual  standing.  There 
were  also  Nkwidini,  Mlobeka,  and  Mahlenkle.  The 
last  named  was  a  nephew  of  the  late  king,  and  he 
had  begun  to  attend  school  when  the  Lehmans  were 
teaching  at  the  kraal  of  the  chief.  He  was  an  ex- 
ceptional native,  most  steady  and  unassuming, 
ready  and  willing  for  any  task  assigned  him.  I 
have  mentioned  these  names  because  they  with  oth- 


MATOPO    MISSION  137 

ers  already  referred  to  were  among  our  future  evan- 
gelists and  teachers.  Nor  do  I  wish  to  forget  Kolisa, 
a  son  of  Buka,  whom  we  visited  up  in  the  hills. 

Not  all,  however,  continued  to  remain  at  the  mis- 
sion. Some  left,  never  to  return.  Others  went  away  to 
work  for  a  time,  that  they  might  obtain  more  money 
and  then  return  again  to  enter  school.  The  new 
boys  as  they  came  generally  showed  a  desire  to 
leave  their  old  heathen  lives  and  become  Christians. 
Others  were  a  cause  of  great  anxiety  to  us.  There 
were  times  of  heart-searching  and  crying  out  to 
God,  which  showed  that  His  Spirit  was  still  at 
work  in  their  hearts.  One  after  another  would 
come  and  confess  their  temptations  and  failures,  and 
ask  for  prayer  and  help  that  they  might  be  more 
victorious  over  evil.  Some  would  receive  definite 
help  and  blessing,  while  others  seemed,  for  some 
reason,  unable  to  take  hold  of  the  Lord  by  faith. 
Often  we  would  feel  greatly  encouraged  over  the 
progress  some  were  making,  and  look  forward  to 
their  becoming  able  helpers  and  soul-winners  for 
Him,  only  to  have  our  hopes  and  expectations  sud- 
denly dashed  to  the  ground.  This  was  all  a  part 
of  our  training  as  missionaries.  The  Lord  was  teach- 
ing us  by  these  experiences  to  take  our  eyes  off  in- 
dividuals and  fix  them  upon  Him.  He  was  also 
giving  us  sufficient  encouragement,  day  by  day, 
through  some  who  were  steadfast,  to  enable  us  to 
realize  that  our  labor  was  not  in  vain  for  the  Lord. 
There  were  a  number  in  the  inquirers'  class,  and  in 
July,  1902,  three  more  were  baptized  by  Brother 
Steigerwald.  Of  this  number  were  Ndhlalambi  and 
Nyamazana. 


138  AFRICA 

The  attendance  at  school  was  not  as  satisfactory 
as  could  be  desired.  The  authority  of  the  parents 
being  paramount  in  the  home,  if  there  was  any- 
thing to  be  done,  such  as  digging  in  the  gardens, 
herding,  keeping  the  animals  from  the  gardens,  or 
running  errands,  the  children  must  stay  at  home  and 
attend  to  it.  An  early  morning  school  was  also 
started  for  those  who  could  not  attend  at  midday, 
and  this  enabled  some  of  the  herdboys  to  attend. 

The  parents  were  especially  opposed  to  their 
daughters  attending  school,  because  they  became 
unwilling  to  marry  the  old  men  to  whom  they  were 
betrothed.  As  we  mentioned  previously,  several 
girls  did  come  to  stay  at  the  mission.  One  of  them 
was  Ganukisa,  a  daughter  of  the  king.  She  was  a 
very  nice,  modest  girl  and  proved  a  great  help  in 
many  ways.  She  also  became  a  Christian  and 
member  of  the  Church.  Another  girl,  Zwadini,  ran 
off  from  home  twice  and  came  to  us,  imploring  us 
to  save  her  from  the  man  her  parents  were  forcing 
her  to  marry.  We  tried  to  buy  her  freedom,  but  to 
no  avail,  and  she  finally  was  forced  to  return  home 
and  marry  the  choice  of  her  parents.  At  this  time 
we  had  no  right  by  law  to  interfere  in  these  mat- 
ters, however  much  we  longed  to  free  some  of 
these  dear  girls  from  their  lives  of  slavery.  It 
required  time  and  prayer  and  much  looking  to  God 
before  a  certain  amount  of  freedom  of  choice  was 
granted  the  daughters,  and  then  it  came  through  an 
action  of  the  government. 

In  the  school  some  were  making  good  progress. 
English  and  some  other  branches  had  been  added  to 
the  curriculum,  but  the  Bible  continued  to  be  the 


MATOPO   MISSION  139 

chief  Textbook,  and  some  were  acquiring  a  fair  un- 
derstanding of  it.  Natives  have  generally  a  keen- 
ness of  discernment  and  a  clear  grasp  of  the  subject, 
so  that  it  is  necessary  for  the  teacher  to  be  well 
prepared  for  any  question  that  may  arise.  The  one 
who  was  first  at  the  mission  was  a  philosopher  and 
a  keen  thinker.  Nothing  seemed  to  escape  him.  I 
have  heard  him  deliver  most  excellent  sermons  and 
bring  far  more  out  of  a  Sunday-school  lesson  than 
the  ordinary  teacher.  One  day  in  reading  the  book 
of  Isaiah,  he  came  to  the  eighteenth  chapter.  He 
knows  nothing  about  Ethiopia,  but  after  he  had 
finished  reading,  I  inquired  what  people  the  prophet 
referred  to.  He  thought  for  a  moment  and  then  ex- 
claimed, "  I  believe  he  means  us,  the  black  people." 


CHAPTER  ELEVEN 
Continuation  of  the  Work 

Furlough 

THE  missionary,  however  robust  he  may  be, 
cannot  keep  at  his  work  all  the  time ;  for  he 
generally  works  seven  days  in  a  week  and 
fifty-two  weeks  in  a  year.  After  a  few  years  of  such 
labor  it  is  necessary  to  call  a  halt,  if  one  does  not 
wish  to  break  down  altogether.  New  missionaries 
can  take  much  of  the  burden,  yet  those  who  have 
something  of  the  language  and  can  speak  to  the 
people  must  be  ready  in  season  and  out  of  season,  to 
talk,  interpret,  explain,  as  well  as  to  have  heart-to- 
heart  talks  with  the  people. 

I  had  now  been  actively  engaged  on  the  mission 
station  for  four  strenuous  years  and  was  greatly  in 
need  of  a  rest  and  change.  The  Board  at  home,  as 
well  as  the  missionaries  on  the  field,  had  been  urg- 
ing me  to  go  south  for  a  few  months.  The  only 
difficulty  in  the  way  was  the  need  of  some  one  to 
take  the  school,  and  so  we  had  been  looking  forward 
to  the  return  of  Brother  and  Sister  Lehman  from 
Cape  Town  to  take  charge  of  it.  They,  however, 
had  been  looking  on  the  fields  for  mission  work  at 
the  Compounds  on  Johannesburg,  and  had  decided 
to  go  there.  As  a  last  resort  we  decided  to  ask 
Matshuba  to  do  the  teaching.  He  was  capable  of 
140 


MATOPO    MISSION  141 

doing  it,  and  he  was  also  becoming  able  to  do  some 
interpreting  from  English  into  the  vernacular. 

Before  this  happened  an  event  occurred  which 
more  or  less  concerned  all  South  Africa,  and  espe- 
cially Rhodesia.  I  refer  to  the  death,  on  March  26, 
1902,  of  Cecil  Rhodes  at  his  home,  Groot  Schuur, 
near  Cape  Town,  the  place  where  he  had  so  kindly 
received  Brother  Engle  on  our  first  coming  to 
Africa.  It  had  been  his  request  to  be  buried  in 
Rhodesia,  the  country  that  bore  his  name.  In  the 
Matopo  Hills  was  a  beautiful  spot  which  he  had 
discovered  and  to  which  he  gave  the  name,  "  View 
of  the  World."  This  is  about  fifteen  miles  from 
Matopo  Mission,  as  the  crow  flies,  but  over  twenty- 
five  miles  by  wagon  road.  Here,  on  the  summit  of 
a  large  granite  hill,  in  the  heart  of  Matopo,  is  the 
spot  he  selected  to  be  his  last  resting  place. 

When  the  body  was  brought  to  Bulawayo,  thou- 
sands of  people,  both  white  and  black,  vied  with 
each  other  in  paying  a  last  tribute  of  respect  to  him 
who  had  done  so  much  for  the  development  of  the 
country.  The  natives  realized  that  they  had  lost  a 
friend  that  could  not  be  replaced ;  and  the  white 
people  believed  that  no  one  could  carry  out  so  suc- 
cessfully many  of  the  public  affairs  with  which  he 
was  associated.  When  the  funeral  procession 
reached  the  burial  place,  the  heavy  casket  was 
raised  to  the  top  of  the  granite  hill.  Into  the  solid 
rock  a  grave  had  been  cut,  and  into  this  the  casket 
was  lowered.  The  grave  was  then  covered  by  an 
immense  granite  slab,  on  which  was  fastened  a  large 
brass  plate  with  this  inscription:  "  Here  lie. the  re- 
mains of  Cecil  John  Rhodes." 


142  AFRICA 

A  part  of  his  property  was  left  for  the  improve- 
ment of  the  country  to  which  he  had  devoted  his 
time  and  talents.  His  two  large  estates  in  Rhodesia, 
together  with  an  annuity,  were  bequeathed  to  this 
country;  and  his  fine  and  well-built  estate  near 
Cape  Town  was  given  over  for  the  use  of  the  gov- 
ernment of  Cape  Colony,  but  the  grounds  are  con- 
tinually opened  to  the  public.  The  Rhodes  scholar- 
ships for  various  countries,  including  two  for  each 
State  in  the  United  States,  were  given  with  a  hope 
of  cementing  nations  together.  He  wished  no  mon- 
ument to  be  erected  over  his  grave,  but  near  the 
place  is  the  Shangani  Monument  to  the  memory  of 
those  who  fell  in  the  Matabele  War.  The  grounds 
have  been  beautifully  laid  out  and  a  well-built  road 
extends  from  Bulawayo  to  the  grave.  On  his  estate 
at  Cape  Town  is  a  granite  monument  seventy  feet 
long,  built  near  the  seat  overlooking  both  the  At- 
lantic and  the  Indian  Oceans,  where  he  used  to  sit 
and  lay  his  world-wide  plans.  There  is  a  sad  fea- 
ture connected  with  his  life,  like  that  of  many  other 
men  whom  the  world  calls  great.  While  he  made 
so  much  provision  for  earthly  things,  there  seems  to 
be  no  evidence  that  he  made  provision  for  eternity. 

During  this  year  there  also  died  near  us  a  native 
who  had  been  more  or  less  interested  in  the  work, 
by  the  name  of  Fusi.  He  had  been  a  prominent 
soldier  under  King  Lobengula,  and  also  remembered 
the  first  king,  Mzilikazi.  He  loved  to  talk  about  the 
good  old  days,  and  could  tell  of  a  visit  that  Rev. 
Moffat,  the  father-in-law  of  Livingstone,  once  made 
to  this  country.  He  said,  "  I  remember  Chete  [Rev. 
Moffat]  quite  well.  I  was  just  a  young  man  at  the 


MATOPO   MISSION  143 

time  and  King  Mzilikazi  treated  Chete  nicely.  He 
said  to  me,  '  Go  and  milk  a  cow  and  bring  some 
milk  for  the  missionary.'  "  "<  ; 

This  old  warrior,  however,  never  showed  any  de- 
sire to  become  a  Christian ;  but  he  was  always  glad 
to  have  his  people  attend  school,  and  his  youngest 
son  was  one  of  the  first  communicants.  The  native 
finally  became  sick  with  dropsy,  and  when  we  vis- 
ited him  during  his  sickness,  he  said  an  enemy  had 
bewitched  him,  adding: 

"  Before  the  white  man  came  into  the  country  we 
put  all  the  witches  to  death  and  we  were  well.  Now 
we  are  not  allowed  to  kill  them  and  we  must  suffer." 

Later  we  again  visited  him.  When  asked  if  we 
should  sing  for  him,  he  replied,  "  Yes,  sing  one  of 
the  old  hymns  you  used  to  sing  when  Missionary 
Engle  was  alive."  We  did  so,  and  he  too  joined  his 
quavering  voice  in  the  chorus.  He  also  listened 
most  attentively  to  the  Scripture  reading  and  com- 
ments that  day,  and  joined  us  in  prayer.  What 
thoughts  these  things  stirred  in  his  heart  we  know 
not,  for  that  was  the  last  time  we  saw  him. 

In  July  of  this  year  the  time  finally  came  for  our 
furlough.  I  took  a  ticket  from  Bulawayo  south  to 
Port  Elizabeth.  This  was  shortly  after  the  close 
of  the  Boer  War,  and  all  along  the  railway  in  the 
south  were  to  be  seen  the  blockhouses  erected  to 
guard  the  railway  from  destruction.  Here  and  there 
were  the  demolished  farmhouses  and  the  orchards 
and  beautiful  groves  that  had  been  leveled  to  the 
ground.  Worst  of  all  were  the  many  graves — mute 
testimony  to  that  saddest  of  all  human  employment, 
human  butchery.  Kimberley  already  was  recover- 


144  AFRICA 

ing  from  this  terrible  siege.  This  was  still  a  small 
town,  its  chief  attraction  being  the  great  masses  of 
blue  earth  surrounding  it.  This  diamondiferous 
blue  rock  is  mined  far  down  in  the  earth,  where  it 
had  been  formed  under  great  pressure ;  and  when 
brought  to  the  surface,  the  combined  action  of  rain 
and  sun  slakes  it  somewhat  like  quicklime.  It  is 
then  washed,  which  removes  the  lighter  earth,  leav- 
ing the  diamonds  and  other  precious  stones. 

From  this  place  I  went  to  Port  Elizabeth,  which 
is  1,200  miles  south  of  Bulawayo.  It  is  the  principal 
seaport  of  Cape  Colony,  as  it  furnishes  a  shorter 
and  more  direct  route  into  the  interior  than  Cape 
Town  does.  This  is  a  town  of  about  35,000  inhab- 
itants, but  there  is  nothing  especially  inviting  about 
the  place  except  its  thriving  business.  It  has  been 
said  of  it :  "  Out  of  sand-hills  and  scrub,  Anglo- 
Saxon  energy  has  created  a  town  that,  for  cleanli- 
ness and  health,  and  for  the  handsomeness  of  its 
business  buildings,  is  second  to  none  in  South  Afri- 
ca." After  a  stay  of  a  few  days  at  this  place  I  took 
the  steamer  Norman  Castle  for  Durban,  where  the 
greater  part  of  my  vacation  was  to  be  spent. 

Durban  is  the  seaport  and  largest  town  of  Natal, 
and  has  nearly  70,000  inhabitants.  The  business 
part  is  low  and  often  quite  hot,  but  the  part  known 
as  the  Berea  is  high  and  cool,  and  has  many  fine 
dwelling  houses.  Natal  is  more  thickly  populated 
than  other  parts  of  South  Africa.  It  has  a  most 
luxuriant  vegetation  and  varied  and  picturesque 
scenery,  and  well  deserves  the  appellation,  "  Garden 
of  South  Africa."  In  this  warm,  moist,  subtropical 
climate  of  the  coast  many  delicious  and  tropical 


MATOPO   MISSION  145 

fruits  are  grown.  This  is  the  home  of  the  Zulu 
tribe  of  Africans,  of  which  the  Matabele  are  a 
branch. 

My  special  purpose  in  coming  to  this  section  of 
the  country  to  rest  was  to  make  my  furlough  as  prof- 
itable as  possible,  and  to  gain  information  helpful  for 
mission  work.  Missionaries  had  been  in  this  sec- 
tion of  the  country  the  greater  part  of  the  nineteenth 
century.  The  American  Board  had  started  their 
work  some  time  in  the  '30s,  and  this  formed  an 
excellent  opportunity  of  seeing  some  of  the  fruits 
of  missionary  labors. 

I  spent  some  time  at  an  English  Mission  under 
Mr.  Eyles  at  Imbezana,  at  a  Free  Methodist  Mis- 
sion and  girls'  school,  Fairview,  and  at  four  missions 
of  the  American  Board — a  boys'  school  at  Adams, 
a  large  girls'  school  at  Inanda,  and  one  at  Umzumbi, 
and  also  visited  their  work  at  Durban,  in  charge  of 
Rev.  Bridgeman.  At  all  these  places  I  was  most 
hospitably  entertained  and  given  every  opportunity 
for  studying  the  work.  It  was  an  inspiration  to  see 
what  God  had  wrought  among  these  erstwhile 
heathen.  Here  were  large  boarding-schools,  and  na- 
tives living  like  white  people  in  neat  brick  houses, 
built  by  themselves.  Here  were  missionaries,  like 
Mrs.  Edwards  and  Mrs.  Bridgeman,  grown  old  in 
this  soul-saving  work,  and  yet  so  attached  to  the 
natives  and  the  work  that  they  could  not  think  of 
leaving  the  country. 

Natal,  like  Cape  Colony  and  the  Transvaal,  can  no 
longer  be  called  heathen  Africa,  as  so  many  of  the 
natives  are  civilized.  The  large  cities  of  white  peo- 
ple are  built  in  modern  style,  with  all  the  latest  im- 


146  AFRICA 

provements,  electric  lights,  street  cars,  telephones, 
and  the  like,  and  since  then  automobiles.  There  are 
also  many  white  farmers,  as  well  as  small  towns  of 
white  people,  throughout  the  country.  Missionaries 
of  many  societies  are  here  in  this  densely-populated 
and  easily-accessible  district  of  Natal.  This  is  con- 
sidered one  of  the  greatest  fields  for  the  overlapping 
of  missionaries,  perhaps,  to  be  found  anywhere,  yet 
all  seem  to  have  plenty  to  do. 

With  all  the  advantages  for  improvement  which 
the  Africans  here  possess,  I  was  surprised  to  meet, 
within  a  mile  or  two  of  one  of  the  oldest  mission 
stations,  natives  with  paint  and  grease,  and  when 
the  evangelists  go  to  the  homes  of  the  people  they 
still  find  some  raw  heathen.  Some  not  only  do  not 
and  will  not  accept  Christ,  but  they  also  prefer  their 
dirty,  indolent,  ignorant  way  of  living  to  that  in- 
troduced by  civilization. 

At  Durban  I  took  the  train  to  go  north  to  Johan- 
nesburg, a  distance  of  480  miles.  The  war  had  "been 
over  for  some  time,  yet  it  was  still  necessary  to  pro- 
cure a  pass  to  enter  Johannesburg.  This  I  procured 
through  Brother  Lehman,  who  was  then  at  Johan- 
nesburg. People  were  flocking  thither  as  fast  as 
they  could  procure  passes  and  trains  to  carry  them. 
The  trains  were  crowded  every  day,  and  one  was 
obliged  to  book  ahead  in  order  to  secure  a  seat. 
This  ride  to  Johannesburg  is  a  delightful  one,  so  far 
as  the  scenery  is  concerned,  but  the  winding  rail- 
road is  exceedingly  rough  and  uncomfortable.  One 
passes  through  a  landscape  most  beautiful  and  va- 
ried, from  the  green,  grassy  hills  of  the  coast, 
through  mountains  and  valleys,  to  the  high,  rolling 


MATOPO    MISSION  147 

veldt  of  the  Rand,  where  the  famous  gold  reefs  of 
South  Africa  are  to  be  found.  In  this  journey  one 
leaves  the  sea  level  at  Durban  and  gradually  rises 
to  the  height  of  6,000  feet  at  Johannesburg.  It  is 
said  of  this  place :  "  In  1886  the  site  was  nothing 
but  a  bleak,  bare  plain,  that  could  have  been  bought 
for  one  hundred  pounds.  Then  came  the  discovery 
of  gold  reefs  east  and  west  for  sixty  miles,  and 
stores,  public  buildings,  and  churches  sprang  up 
with  marvelous  rapidity."  This  is  now  the  largest, 
richest,  and  most  modern  city  of  South  Africa,  and 
the  Rand  is  this  sixty  miles  of  gold-reef  mines. 

At  these  mines  are  many  thousands  of  natives 
from  all  parts  of  South  Africa,  and  when  they  are 
not  at  work  they  are  confined  in  large  enclosures 
known  as  "  Compounds."  This  furnishes  the  mis- 
sionary an  excellent  opportunity  of  doing  mission 
work  among  this  conglomerate  mass  of  natives.  The 
great  variety  of  languages  is  one  hindrance  in  the 
way,  but  if  the  missionary  is  able  to  speak  one  of 
the  chief  divisions  of  the  Bantu  family  of  languages, 
such  as  the  Zulu,  he  can  generally  find  some  native 
to  interpret  for  him  into  other  languages. 

In  this  mission  field  we  found  our  beloved  co- 
laborers,  Brother  and  Sister  Isaac  Lehman,  who  had 
just  come  from  Cape  Town  and  were  becoming  set- 
tled in  their  new  home.  A  dear  little  girl,  Faith,  had 
come  to  bless  their  home  and  cheer  their  hearts. 
Brother  Jacob  Lehmans  also  were  engaged  in  mis- 
sion work  here,  as  well  as  our  dear  Sister  Swanson 
(nee  Hershey),  who  had  left  us  at  Cape  Town  to 
come  to  this  place.  As  our  Board  had  no  mission 
station  here  at  that  time,  these  were  all  laboring  in 


148  AFRICA 

connection  with  an  undenominational  mission  in 
charge  of  Mr.  A.  W.  Baker.  All  were  actively  en- 
gaged in  mission  work.  It  is  a  broad  field  and  is  a 
great  opportunity  for  giving  the  Gospel  to  the 
heathen.  However,  one  has  the  same  obstacles  to 
encounter  as  in  the  native  village,  i.  e.,  the  indif- 
ference of  the  people.  While  we  would  be  having  a 
service  in  one  part  of  the  Compound,  other  natives 
would  be  dancing  within  sight  in  another  part,  and 
often  be  making  such  a  noise  as  to  disturb  the  meet- 
ing. One  difficulty  with  the  work  is  that  the  na- 
tives often  remain  at  the  mines  only  six  months  or 
a  year,  not  sufficiently  long  to  get  them  established. 
Much  good  is,  however,  being  done;  schools  are  es- 
tablished to  teach  the  natives  when  they  are  not 
at  work,  and  services  are  held  regularly  at  various 
places.  Natives,  accepting  the  Light,  carry  it  to 
other  parts  of  Africa,  and  sometimes  become  teach- 
ers of  their  people. 

After  spending  a  most  enjoyable  month  at  this 
place  I  again  returned  to  Matopo  Mission,  after  an 
absence  of  three  and  one-half  months.  It  was  a 
pleasure  to  get  back  to  the  old  battle  ground,  for 
it  was  still  the  most  beautiful  spot  on  earth  and  its 
people-  the  dearest.  Great  changes  had  taken  place 
during  our  absence.  Then  the  foundation  of  the 
house  had  been  laid  and  the  brick  burnt,  but  now 
an  imposing  structure  met  the  eye  and  the  house 
was  rapidly  being  completed.  It  looked  as  if  the 
missionaries  had  come  to  stay  and  were  to  have  a 
comfortable  place  to  live  in. 

The  school  was  progressing  favorably  under  Mat- 
shuba's  management,  and  all  parts  of  the  work 


MATOPO    MISSION 


149 


seemed  encouraging.  As  there  was  continually 
some  difficulty  about  the  stability  of  some  of  the 
industrial  pupils,  it  was  decided  to  divide  the  school 
year  into  two  terms  of  five  months  each,  with  a 
month's  vacation  intervening  in  which  the  pupils 
could  return  home  if  they  so  desired.  This  worked 
well  and  seemed  more  satisfactory  to  all.  The  one 
who  had  been  teaching  was  retained  as  pupil  teacher 
and  was  also  permitted  to  take  advanced  work. 


"  Here   lie   the   remains   of  Cecil   John   Rhodes." 

There  was  again  opportunity  for  me  to  visit  in 
their  homes.  So,  accompanied  by  some  of  the  boys 
or  girls,  we  made  long  excursions  on  foot  among 
the  people,  sometimes  walking  from  eight  to  twelve 
miles  and  meeting  many  people.  Because  so  many 
missionaries  had  left  them  and  did  not  return,  they 
were  not  a  little  pleased  to  see  me  back,  and,  native- 
like,  were  inclined  to  make  flattering  speeches.  One 
day  we  visited  nine  kraals,  and  everywhere  had  at- 


150  AFRICA 

tentive  listeners,  and  the  people  seemed  to  be  hun- 
gry for  the  Word.  At  another  time  we  went  to 
Sibula's  village  for  the  first  time,  where  we  met  and 
gave  the  Gospel  to  over  one  hundred  people.  They 
had  never  been  visited  before  and  seemed  anxious 
for  a  school.  Later  they  built  a  schoolhouse,  and 
Nyamzana  was  given  to  them  as  a  teacher. 

One  day  when  we  were  out  to  the  kraals  we  hap- 
pened to  come  to  a  beer  drink,  where  they  were 
having  a  digging-bee. 

They  said,  "  Why  does  not  Missionary  Steiger- 
wald  invite  the  people  to  come  and  dig  his  large 
gardens?  He  is  so  busy  with  building." 

"Will  you  come  if  he  invites  you?"  we  asked. 

"  Certainly  we  will,"  they  replied. 

When  we  reached  home  we  told  Brother  Steiger- 
wald  what  they  said,  and  he  at  once  thought  it  a 
splendid  opportunity  for  getting  his  corn  planted. 
So  he  appointed  a  day  and  sent  out  invitations  to 
the  people.  One  hundred  and  sixty-four  adults 
with  their  hoes  came  and  digged  and  planted  an 
eight  or  ten-acre  lot.  It  was  an  interesting  sight  to 
see  that  many  people  digging  in  one  place.  They 
would  usually  sing  a  native  song,  and  with  their 
hoes  keep  time  to  the  music.  They  performed  this 
piece  of  work  without  pay,  and  of  course  received 
no  beer,  but  a  generous  supply  of  bread  and  tea  was 
furnished  them,  which  they  greatly  enjoyed.  These 
Matabele  are  always  very  ready  to  come  out  to 
work  when  invited,  and  in  this  respect  they  were  a 
contrast  to  some  natives.  When  hired  to  do  work, 
however,  it  was  necessary  to  make  them  keep  their 


MATOPO    MISSION  151 

promise  and  come  at  the  time  appointed,  and  also 
finish  their  work. 

Sister  Steigerwald  was  much  amused  at  Sibon- 
gamanzi  shortly  after  she  came  to  the  mission.  My 
hut  needed  replastering,  and  Sibongamanzi  was  en- 
gaged to  do  the  work.  The  appointed  day  arrived, 
but  the  girl  did  not  come  according  to  her  promise, 
and  as  the  work  was  urgent  I  employed  another  girl 
to  do  it.  The  next  day  Sibongamanzi  came  to  do 
the  work  and  was  quite  disappointed  to  find  some 
one  else  had  accomplished  it. 

I  said,  "  Why  did  you  not  come  yesterday  accord- 
ing to  your  promise?  " 

"  I  am  sure  a  person  has  a  right  to  change  her 
mind,"  she  replied. 

"  Yes,  I  think  so,  too,  so  I  employed  some  one 
else." 

In  school  one  is  obliged  to  use  the  English  word 
for  such  articles  as  slate,  pencil,  and  paper,  since 
there  is  no  word  in  the  language  for  these  things, 
When  Steigerwalds  came,  there  were  also  a  number 
of  boxes  of  goods  sent  out ;  and  in  unpacking  these 
a  pencil  fell  out.  Sister  Steigerwald  picked  it  up, 
and  handing  it  to  Masikwa,  said,  "  Here  is  a  pencil." 
He  was  most  delighted,  and  came  and  said,  "  The 
Inkosikazi  [Mrs.]  can  speak  our  language  already. 
She  said  '  Pencil.'  "  Sister  Steigerwald,  together 
with  the  other  sisters,  had  their  own  experiences  in 
teaching  natives  in  the  kitchen  and  housework,  as 
well  as  in  sewing.  She  proved  most  capable  and 
patient  in  training  various  ones  to  be  cleanly  and  to 
do  their  work  properly. 

The  services  at  the  mission  were  well  attended  at 


152  AFRICA 

this  time,  and  sometimes  we  were  obliged  to  have 
an  overflow  meeting.  Natives  would  come  fifteen 
miles  to  be  present  at  the  Sunday  services.  "  Our 
little  church  is  too  small,"  said  some.  "  We  need  a 
new  one." 

Our  congregations  were  gradually  emerging  from 
barbarism,  and  their  appearance  on  Sunday  was 
often  quite  striking.  Some  of  the  boys  and  young 
men  would  come,  clean  and  neatly  dressed  in  Euro- 
pean clothes,  including  hat  and  shoes,  and  exhibit 
good  taste  in  the  selection  of  their  clothing.  Some 
again  came  well  dressed  but  without  shoes;  others 
would  appear  partly  dressed,  but  anxious  to  display 
all  the  clothing  they  had.  Perhaps  on  a  sweltering, 
hot  day  some  would  don  a  heavy  winter  overcoat 
reaching  below  the  knees,  or  a  heavy  suit  of  bright 
red  flannel.  Another  would  have  on  a  coat  turned 
wrong  side  out  to  show  all  the  colors,  and  a  vest 
outside  of  this,  while  a  number  continued  to  wear 
the  purely  native  garb  of  skins.  A  few  of  the 
girls  were  neatly  clothed  in  dresses ;  others  in  short 
skirts  with  or  without  a  cloth  thrown  over  their 
shoulders.  Some  of  the  women's  clothing  was  very 
modest  and  picturesque. 

Natives,  especially  at  this  stage  of  their  advance- 
ment, do  not  as  a  rule  dress  according  to  the  weath- 
er, for  to  them  clothing  is  more  or  less  a  matter  of 
ornamentation  and  they  don  it  accordingly.  One 
must  be  very  careful  about  placing  special  emphasis 
upon  clothing,  as  the  native  is  naturally  vain,  and 
when  he  is  able  to  be  better  clothed  his  vanity  often 
increases.  He  soon  thinks  that  if  he  is  clothed  he  is 
a  Christian,  or  if  he  goes  to  school  and  learns  he  is 


MATOPO   MISSION  153 

a  Christian.  He  is  quite  ready  to  put  on  these  out- 
ward semblances  of  civilization  without  yielding 
himself  to  God.  If  the  missionary  is  willing  to  ac- 
cept the  outward  form  of  Christianity,  whether  of 
clothing  or  ceremonials,  he  may  soon  have  a  large 
membership.  He  must  continually  guard  against 
these  things,  and  seek  to  know  the  inner  life  of 
those  about  him,  and  their  daily  walk ;  nor  is  it  al- 
ways easy  to  ascertain  what  is  beneath  the  sur- 
face. Hypocrisy  is  not  at  all  unusual. 

Early  in  our  work  there  was  a  native  who  came 
occasionally  to  our  services.  He  had  worked  in 
Bulawayo  and  attended  one  of  the  native  churches 
sufficiently  long  to  gain  a  smattering  and  lingo  of 
Christianity.  He  came  clothed  in  black  broadcloth 
and  carrying  a  book  under  his  arm,  and  withal 
seemed  a  person  of  some  consequence.  He  was  a 
brother  of  one  of  our  boys,  and  we  were  informed 
that  he  could  read.  One  day  in  church,  at  the  close 
of  the  services,  he  asked  permission  to  say  some- 
thing, and  not  knowing  what  was  coming  we  gave 
him  permission.  He  arose  and  began  to  read  out 
of  his  book  and  then  talked.  Again  he  read  and 
talked  in  a  preaching  way  until  he  was  finally  re- 
quested to  sit  down.  As  we  were  suspicious  from 
his'manner  in  regard  to  his  ability  to  read,  we  took 
occasion  to  test  him  and  found  that  he  knew  abso- 
lutely nothing  about  reading.  What  he  gave  had 
been  memorized,  and  we  learned  that  his  life  too 
was  decidedly  corrupt.  This  taught  us  how  neces- 
sary it  was  to  be  careful  of  the  stranger  who  came 
and  claimed  to  be  a  Christian. 

December  26,  1902,  there  was  a  most  welcome  ad- 


154  AFRICA 

dition  to  the  mission  family  in  the  person  of  a  little 
son  to  Brother  and  Sister  Doner.  This  was  the  first 
white  child  at  the  mission,  and  it  was  quite  a  curi- 
osity to  the  natives.  Of  course  every  one  must  have 
a  look  at  it,  and  happy  was  the  one  who  might  touch 
or  hold  this  wonderful  white  baby. 


CHAPTER    TWELVE 
Looking  on  the  Fields 

Say  not  ye,  There  are  yet  four  months,  and  then  com- 
eth  harvest?  behold,  I  say  unto  you,  Lift  up  your  eyes, 
and  look  on  the  fields;  for  they  are  white  already  to 
harvest. — St.  John  4:  35. 

WE  moved  into  the  new  house  early  in  1903. 
This  left  the  huts  empty,  for  our  increas- 
ing family  of  boys.  As  soon  as  the  rains 
were  over  for  this  year,  Brother  and  Sister  Steiger- 
wald  and  myself  felt  led  to  make  a  tour  of  explora- 
tion in  the  interests  of  the  work.  Matopo  Hills  or 
Mountains  extend  northeast  and  southwest  for  a 
distance  of  about  sixty  miles.  Between  the  hills 
and  Bulawayo  there  is  a  mission  station  and  work 
had  been  carried  on  for  some  years,  although  there 
were  at  this  time  many  raw  natives  to  be  seen. 
Through  the  hills  and  south  for  a  long  distance 
there  were  as  yet  no  missionaries  except  our  own, 
and  as  our  mission  was  on  the  north  side  of  the 
hills,  we  desired  to  go  through  them  and  explore 
some  of  the  south  side. 

In  June  we  arranged  to  make  the  trip,  taking  our 
large  wagon  on  which  was  a  canvas  top,  which  was 
drawn  by  donkeys,  consequently  progress  was  slow. 
Three  of  our  boys  accompanied  us.  We  were 
obliged  to  go  west  about  nine  miles  before  a  road 
could  be  found  leading  through  the  hills.  This 
155 


156  AFRICA 

wagon  road  was  exceedingly  rough  and  stony  and 
very  little  traveled,  ana  the  donkeys  slowly  wended 
their  way  in  and  out  among  the  hills  which  con- 
tinually surrounded  us  and  seemed  to  close  us  in. 
Frequently  as  the  immense  piles  of  rock  seemed  to 
stretch  across  our  path  in  front  and  bar  further 
progress,  we  would  be  led  to  exclaim,  "  Truly,  there 
is  no  way  out  of  this,"  but  on  we  went  and  the  way 
continued  to  open. 

The  tediousness  of  the  journey  was  relieved  by 
the  exceeding  beauty  of  the  scenery  as  it  gradually 
unfolded  before  our  eyes.  In  the  first  of  the  trip 
are  to  be  seen  the  immense  bald  hills  of  solid  gran- 
ite, similar  to  some  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mission. 
Soon  the  scene  changes  and  the  eye  is  greeted  on 
every  side  by  lofty  ridges,  consisting  of  immense 
boulders  piled  up  in  all  sorts  of  fantastic  shapes,  by 
the  Great  Architect,  and  from  out  of  every  possible 
crevice  grow  trees  and  shrubbery  of  all  sorts.  The 
dark  green  of  the  foliage,  interspersed  with  the 
varying  shades  of  grey,  yellow,  red,  and  green  of 
the  rock,  forms  a  picture  of  surpassing  loveliness. 
Baboons,  large  and  small,  would  make  their  ap- 
pearance on  the  jutting  rocks,  as  we  passed  along, 
and  bark  at  these  intruders  into  their  peaceful  do- 
main. 

As  the  hills  abounded  in  game,  and  Elder  Steiger- 
wald  was  a  good  shot,  we  did  not  want  for  meat  on 
the  journey.  So,  while  the  donkeys  were  grazing, 
fires  would  be  built  and  pot  roasts  and  many  sorts 
of  delectable  dishes  would  be  prepared  and  eaten 
with  relish.  Natives  are  generally  happy  if  they 


MATOPO    MISSION  157 

have  plenty  of  meat  to  eat ;  so  on  this  journey  Te- 
bengo  declared  that  they  would  be  longing  for  the 
fleshpots  of  Egypt  when  they  returned  to  the  mis- 
sion. Next  to  meat,  their  favorite  dish  was  Graham 
flour  made  into  a  loaf  by  means  of  water  and  a  little 
salt,  then  baked  in  the  hot  ashes. 

South  of  the  hills  we  left  the  beaten  track,  which 
proceeds  east  to  Gwanda,  and  started  south  to  the 
open  country,  which  is  known  as  Mapani  Land, 
named  from  the  large  amount  of  excellent  hardwood 
Mapani  trees  which  grow  here.  Very  few  na- 
tives were  seen  on  the  journey  through  the  hills, 
but  in  this  rich,  open  plain  of  the  south  there  were 
numerous  kraals.  The  natives  received  us  gladly 
and  readily  consented  to  have  services ;  and  as  there 
were  no  missionaries  in  this  part  of  the  country, 
many  of  the  people  had  the  privilege  of  hearing  for 
the  first  time  the  Story  of  the  Cross.  On  this  trip 
we  came  to  the  home  of  Holi,  a  rich  and  prominent 
native.  His  wife  is  a  daughter  of  King  Lobengula 
and  a  sister  of  Ganukisa,  who  lived  at  the  mission. 
Here  we  were  very  kindly  received  and  Holi  pre- 
sented Elder  Steigerwald  with  a  fine  fat  sheep. 

From  this  point  we  turned  west  and  north  through 
the  hills  by  a  different  route.  Along  the  way  we 
visited  some  places  of  interest,  especially  the  "  View 
of  the  World,"  where  Mr.  Rhodes  was  buried. 
Thence  we  proceeded  east  and  south  to  the  mission. 
We  had  been  absent  about  two  weeks,  had  traveled 
over  one  hundred  miles,  and  had  had  a  most  pleas- 
ant and  profitable  trip.  It  had  also  been  a  change 
from  the  labor  and  routine  of  the  station. 


158  AFRICA 

Brother  and  Sister  Doner  had  for  some  time 
been  contemplating  opening  another  station,  and 
they  concluded  during  this  dry  season  also  to  make 
a  tour  and  explore  the  country,  as  well  as  do  evan- 
gelistic work.  They  made  preparations  to  spend 
a  month  in  this  way,  taking  the  wagon  and  several 
boys.  Little  Oliver,  who  was  then  only  seven 
months  old,  also  went  along,  thus  early  in  his  life 
learning  what  trekking  in  Africa  meant. 

They  went  south  over  the  same  route  we  had 
taken,  and  it  was  on  this  trip,  if  I  mistake  not,  that 
the  present  site  of  Mapani  Mission  was  selected. 
They  spent  a  very  delightful  month  and  came  home 
quite  enthusiastic  over  the  prospects  of  opening  a 
new  work  and  eager  to  launch  out  at  once.  Permis- 
sion did  not  come  from  the  Board,  however,  in  time 
to  open  that  dry  season,  and  the  work  had  to  be 
postponed  another  year. 

During  this  year  word  came  that  one  member  of 
the  Executive  Board  had  passed  "  over  the  river." 
Dear  father  died  the  latter  part  of  March.  It  was 
a  double  loss  to  some  of  us ;  for  we  should  now  miss 
not  only  his  fatherly  letters,  but  the  wise  counsel 
that  he  gave  in  his  capacity  as  a  member  of  the 
Mission  Board.  He  always  seemed  to  have  such  a 
keen  insight  into  the  work,  and  wrote  about  it  as  if 
he  had  been  on  the  field  and  knew  exactly  our  sur- 
roundings. 

The  work  at  the  mission  continued  to  go  along  as 
usual,  and  two  more  united  with  the  Church,  and 
everyone  found  plenty  of  profitable  employment. 
One  feature  of  the  work,  not  yet  mentioned,  but 
which  always  requires  much  of  the  missionaries' 


MATOPO    MISSION  159 

time,  is  medical  work  and  the  care  of  the  sick.  The 
natives  accept  the  miracles  of  healing,  mentioned 
in  the  Scriptures,  without  question,  and  the  sick 
frequently  asked  the  prayers  of  the  missionaries. 
There  were  several  instances  of  remarkable  cases 
of  healing  without  the  application  of  medicine,  when 
the  native  could  be  led  to  take  hold  of  the  Lord  by 


Matopo  Mission   Church.     Built  by   Elder 
Steigerwald    in    1905. 

faith.  On  one  occasion  a  native  came  for  Elder 
Engle,  from  a  kraal  about  five  miles  distant,  where  a 
woman  was  very  sick  and  had  eaten  nothing  for  sev- 
eral days.  She  was  very  low  indeed  and  seemingly 
unconscious  of  what  was  going  on  about  her  and 
her  friends  were  weeping.  Brother  Engle  felt  led 
to  anoint  her  and  pray  for  her.  The  next  day  they 
came  to  say  that  the  woman  was  much  better  and 
was  eating,  and  they  declared  that  the  missionary 
had  raised  her  from  the  dead. 


160  AFRICA 

At  another  time  one  of  our  Christian  girls  was 
sick  with  such  a  disease  that  we  knew  we  could  not 
help  her,  and  she  desired  prayer.  We  granted  her 
request  and  she  was  healed  immediately,  even  to 
our  surprise.  Some  time  after  Brother  Doner  had 
come,  an  elderly  native  was  quite  ill  with  lung 
trouble,  and  his  people  had  been  trying  in  every  way 
to  heal  him.  They  appealed  to  us,  so  we  made  the 
case  a  special  subject  of  prayer  and  he  was  healed 
immediately,  and  told  everyone  that  Jesus  had 
healed  him.  A  mother  also  wished  us  to  pray  for 
her  child,  who  was  very  ill  and  seemed  ready  to  die 
at  any  minute ;  it  too  was  healed  at  once.  Other 
instances  of  help  might  be  cited ;  but  we  give  these, 
because  we  see  that  He  is  the  same  Christ  yet  to- 
day and  often  shows  His  power,  saying  unto  the 
sick,  "According  to  your  faith  be  it  unto  you." 

Why  He  does  not  always  choose  to  manifest  His 
power  in  this  way  I  know  not.  I  am  giving  things 
as  I  found  them.  At  first  we  were  more  or  less  loth 
to  use  medicine,  and  some  of  the  early  losses  may 
have  been  owing  to  this  fact.  We  believe  also  tha't 
He  receives  honor  in  helping  the  missionary  make 
use  of  remedies  to  relieve  the  suffering  of  the  sick. 
With  the  natives  sickness  is  always  the  result  of 
witchcraft  or  the  influence  of  their  ancestral  spirits. 
If  one  can  by  means  of  remedies,  under  the  blessing 
of  God,  show  them  that  this  is  not  true,  he  is  doing 
much  to  overthrow  some  of  their  superstitious  be- 
liefs. So  the  sick  are  visited  in  their  homes  and 
ministered  to,  and  many  come  to  the  mission  for 
treatment.  Sometimes  the  disease  may  be  such  as 
will  not  yield  to  treatment,  but  the  gentle  sympathy 


MATOPO   MISSION 


161 


162  AFRICA 

and  the  delicacy  for  the  appetite  are  always  much 
appreciated,  even  from  some  sources  least  expected. 
The  missionary  necessarily  becomes  physician  and 
nurse  to  his  people,  and  it  brings  him  into  contact 
with  them  and  relieves  their  sufferings  and  thus 
paves  the  way  for  ministering  to  their  spiritual 
needs.  He  who  neglects  this  part  of  the  work  makes 
a  grave  mistake.  Many  missionaries,  who  had  done 
little  medical  work  at  home,  have  by  a  willingness 
and  desire  to  learn,  become  quite  proficient  in  heal- 
ing on  the  mission  field. 

Elder  Steigerwald  has  been  much  used  in  this 
line  of  work.  Many  and  various  cases  have  been 
treated  by  him  most  successfully.  In  addition  to 
the  sick  who  come  for  medicine,  there  are  generally 
some  who  remain  for  a  time  at  the  mission  to  be 
treated. 

During  this  dry  season,  as  usual,  kraal  visiting 
occupied  much  of  my  time  outside  of  school  hours, 
and  many  long  and  enjoyable  trips  were  made  to  all 
the  villages  surrounding  us.  During  these  journeys 
the  Lord  was  also  reminding  His  messenger  of  some 
things  that  had  been  almost  forgotten.  He  was 
showing  the  large  fields  yet  beyond  where  the  peo- 
ple were  in  pagan  darkness  and  the  Light  of  Life 
had  not  yet  penetrated,  and  where  missionaries  and 
teachers  were  greatly  needed. 

The  reader  of  these  pages  will  remember  that  our 
call  had  been  to  the  far  interior  of  Africa,  where 
Christ  had  not  been  named.  When  Matopo  Mission 
was  started  it  was  felt  that  here  was  my  place  to 
begin  work,  but  that  the  time  would  come  when  the 
Lord  wanted  me  to  press  on  farther  in  the  interior. 


MATOPO    MISSION 


163 


164  AFRICA 

This  thought  kept  following  me,  and  in  the  second 
year  of  our  work  at  Matopo,  on  my  speaking  to  a 
friend  of  the  call  to  press  on  farther,  the  question 
was  asked,  "  You  do  not  intend  to  go  alone,  do 
you?  "  My  reply  was,  "  No,  I  do  not  think  that  will 
be  necessary.  Perhaps  the  Lord  will  raise  up  others 
who  desire  to  go  beyond  the  Zambezi."  Also,  while 
Brother  and  Sister  Van  Blunk  were  at  Matopo,  the 
question  of  going  north  was  often  mentioned,  for 
their  eyes  were  likewise  looking  in  that  direction. 

As  time  went  on,  however,  and  the  work  at  Mat- 
opo increased,  I  entered  more  and  more  deeply  into 
it  and  became  absorbed  in  my  surroundings.  The 
children  and  also  the  older  people  occupied  a  large 
place  in  my  heart  and  crowded  out  for  the  time 
being  all  thought  of  anything  else.  The  Lord  had 
to  take  His  own  way  of  cutting  me  loose  and  again 
lifting  up  my  eyes  to  the  fields  beyond,  and  I  could 
not  doubt  but  that  His  time  was  near  at  hand.  On 
the  other  hand,  what  a  struggle  it  was  to  be  willing 
to  leave  these !  He,  however,  showed  me  most 
strikingly  one  day  that  when  I  was  willing  to  lose 
these  children  there  were  others  waiting  to  be 
found  ;  and  when  the  work  was  given  into  His  hands, 
He  accomplished  that  which  to  me  was  impossible. 

First,  the  pushing  out  of  the  work  must  be  pre- 
sented to  the  Board  and  the  home  Church  and  their 
consent  and  aid  solicited.  Permission  was  given  to 
return  to  America,  and  as  Conference  drew  near, 
it  seemed  as  if  the  Lord's  time  had  come  for  me  to 
do  this.  Together  with  my  colaborers,  we  made  it 
a  special  subject  of  prayer,  and  felt  that  I  was  to 
start  at  once.  So,  on  March  25,  1904,  I  left  the  mis- 


MATOPO    MISSION  165 

sion  for  America.  Sister  Emma  Doner,  as  she  bade 
me  good-bye,  said  weeping,  "  If  I  did  not  know  of 
a  truth  that  it  was  the  Lord's  will  for  you  to  go  at 
this  time  I  could  not  say  good-bye."  That  was  the 
last  time  I  was  permitted  to  look  into  her  dear  face. 
Brother  and  Sister  Steigerwald,  together  with  sev- 
eral of  the  boys,  accompanied  me  to  Bulawayo, 
where  I  took  the  train  for  Cape  Town. 

I  shall  not  dwell  on  the  events  of  that  journey  to 
America,  for  many  things  connected  with  it  are  too 
sacred  to  find  way  into  public  print.  It  is  sufficient 
to  say  that  it  was  a  time  of  severe  sifting  and  test- 
ing, but  of  such  sweet  fellowship  with  the  Father, 
that  I  would  not  blot  it  out  of  my  life,  if  I  could.  I 
learned,  in  truth,  what  that  meant,  "  With  God  all 
things  are  possible."  After  it  was  over  one  of  God's 
children  greatly  desired  to  hear  of  the  trip  home,  and 
when  told,  he  was  quiet  for  a  time;  then  he  said, 
"  I  believe  it  was  God's  preparation  for  going  far- 
ther into  the  interior.  I  believe  the  way  will  open." 

America  was  reached  just  in  time  for  Conference 
in  Ontario.  We  were  sorry  to  learn  that  Elder  S. 
Zook,  the  Treasurer  of  the  Foreign  Mission  Board, 
had  in  the  meantime  passed  away  in  February.  We 
greatly  missed  him  who  had  always  been  such  an 
able  pillar  in  the  Church  and  missionary  work,  for 
his  farsightedness  and  wise  counsel  had  smoothed 
the  way  in  many  a  difficulty.  The  old  fathers  were 
thus  passing  away  and  the  work  was  devolving  upon 
younger  shoulders,  but  they  were  equal  to  the  task. 
The  Executive  Board  now  consisted  of  Brethren 
J.  R.  Zook,  Chairman  ;  Eli  M.  Engle,  Secretary ;  and 
Peter  Climenhage,  Treasurer,  two  of  whom  had 


166  AFRICA 

been  connected  with  the  foreign  missionary  work 
from  its  inception. 

A  report  of  the  work  from  the  field  met  with  an 
enthusiastic  reception,  and  it  was  requested  that 
the  churches  all  be  visited  and  an  account  of  the 
mission  work  be  given.  Permission  was  also  grant- 
ed for  an  appeal  to  be  made  for  pressing  the  work 
on  into  the  interior,  both  for  workers  and  funds. 

In  the  meantime  Miss  Sallie  Kreider  had  gone  to 
Africa  to  engage  in  mission  work,  and  Elder  and 
Mrs.  John  Meyers  and  Miss  Lydia  Heise  had  also 
gone  there  on  a  visit.  Brother  and  Sister  Doner, 
with  some  of  the  mission  boys,  had  gone  to  Mapani 
to  open  a  mission  station  in  August,  1904.  At  first 
Brother  Doner  was  troubled  with  fever,  and  much 
of  the  hut  building  fell  to  Ndhlalambi ;  then  Sister 
Doner  became  quite  ill,  and  Sister  Kreider  hastened 
down  to  assist  in  caring  for  her,  but  she  passed 
away.  Thus  three  precious  lives  had  been  sacrificed 
for  the  people  and  the  work.  Brother  Doner  was 
desirous  of  taking  the  body  and  laying  it  by  the 
side  of  the  others  at  Matopo.  This  was  unusual  in 
a  hot  climate  like  this,  where  interment  is  usually 
attended  to  at  once,  and  the  natives  too  object  to 
carrying  a  dead  body,  so  there  was  much  parleying 
before  they  would  consent  to  take  hold  of  the  bier 
and  carry  it.  The  way  over  the  hills  was  much 
shorter,  but  it  was  also  much  more  difficult.  It  was 
an  exceedingly  trying  journey  for  all  of  them,  and 
only  the  grace  of  God  could  have  sustained  them 
through  it ;  but  Brother  Doner  had  the  comfort  and 
satisfaction  of  seeing  his  loved  one  resting  in  the 


MATOPO   MISSION  167 

little  cemetery  beside  Sister  Cress  and  Brother 
Engle. 

Sister  Doner's  stay  of  over  three  years  in  Africa 
was  almost  a  continual  struggle,  one  might  say, 
against  disease,  and  heroically  she  bore  up  under  it. 
Her  constitution  was  naturally  not  very  rugged,  and 
this  malarial  climate  aggravated  her  disease,  as  it 
is  sure  to  do  with  any  one  who  is  not  strong.  She 
was  afraid  to  write  home  and  inform  her  friends  of 
the  condition  of  her  health,  lest  they  should  insist 
upon  her  return  to  America,  and  that  she  did  not 
desire.  She  loved  the  work  among  the  heathen,  and 
we  believe  she  had  her  desire  in  laying  down  her 
life  in  their  behalf,  rather  than  return  to  America 
where  she  might  have  lived  for  a  longer  time.  Lit- 
tle Oliver  continued  to  thrive,  but  as  Brother  Don- 
er's health  was  great  impaired,  it  was  deemed  ad- 
visable that  he  return  to  America  on  furlough  and, 
after  placing  Oliver  with  friends,  regain  his  own 
health.  So  in  the  spring  of  1905  he  left  for  America, 
and  Ndhlalambi  was  left  to  care  for  the  work  just 
started  at  Mapani. 

In  America  the  work  was  progressing;  a  number 
had  volunteered  for  the  foreign  field,  and  four  were 
ready  to  go  to  Africa  at  once ;  these  being  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Harvey  Frey  and  Misses  Adda  Engle  and 
Abbie  Bert.  Over  $2,000  had  been  donated  toward 
pushing  the  work  on  into  the  interior.  This  was 
offered  to  the  Mission  Board,  but  they  concluded 
that  it  was  best  to  leave  it  in  our  hands  toward  the 
opening  of  the  work.  Of  the  four  new  missionaries 
who  were  going  to  Africa,  none  were  pledged  to  the 


168  AFRICA 

interior  work  except  Sister  Engle,  but  we  still  hoped 
others  would  be  ready  to  go. 

We  reached  Matopo  Mission  August  1,  1905,  and 
rejoiced  that  the  Lord  permitted  us  again  to  return. 
Some  very  noticeable  changes  had  taken  place  dur- 
ing our  absence :  Brother  Steigerwald  had  been 
busy  making  improvements,  and  a  fine,  large  brick 
church,  with  an  iron  roof,  had  been  erected.  This 


Mapani   Mission,    1907. 

was  much  needed  and  it  added  greatly  to  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  mission  premises.  The  women, 
about  eighty  in  number,  gladly  offered  their  services 
free  to  put  in  a  fine  polished  earthen  floor.  A  num- 
ber of  the  class  members  had  been  baptized,  and 
Matshuba  was  doing  well  in  the  schoolroom,  where 
Sister  Kreider  was  also  doing  some  teaching. 

Ndhlalambi  had  been  holding  on  faithfully  at 
Mapani  Mission.  A  number  there  had  accepted 
Christ  and  he  had  formed  them  into  a  class  for  in- 
struction. It  was  thought  advisable  for  Sister  Engle 
and  myself  to  spend  the  remainder  of  the  dry  sea- 


MATOPO    MISSION  169 

son  at  Mapani  and  help  in  the  work  there,  so  we 
turned  our  faces  in  that  direction.  We  were  there 
two  months  and  helped  in  the  various  lines  of  work 
and  visited  some  of  the  people  in  the  surrounding 
neighborhood.  Some  of  the  converts  were  very  en- 
couraging at  that  place.  At  the  time  in  which  the 
rains  usually  open  we  returned  to  Matopo.  On  the 
way  down  we  had  gone  by  wagon  road,  but  on  our 
return  four  donkeys  had  been  sent  down,  two  for 
pack  saddles  and  the  other  two  for  Sister  Engle  and 
me  to  ride,  and  two  boys  came  along  to  assist  in  the 
homeward  journey. 

We  left  Mapani  Mission  at  sunrise  and  took  the 
shorter  journey  across  the  hills,  the  same  path  along 
which  they  had  carried  the  body  of  Sister  Doner 
the  year  previous.  It  was  a  most  difficult  trip  for 
us  and  we  had  to  marvel  how  they  could  have  pos- 
sibly made  the  journey.  We  were  obliged  to  stop 
on  the  way  and  let  the  donkeys  graze  and  eat,  and 
did  not  reach  the  hills  proper  until  afternoon.  As 
the  climbing  was  difficult  and  there  were  many  trees 
and  shrubs  growing  out  from  between  the  rocks, 
it  was  difficult  for  us  to  keep  our  seats,  so  we  dis- 
mounted and  walked.  The  pack  saddles  would  fre- 
quently be  nearly  brushed  off  the  other  donkeys. 
Once  one  of  the  donkeys  in  attempting  to  go  up  a 
steep  rock  fell  back  and  became  fast  in  the  rocks. 
The  boys  removed  the  load  and  carried  it  up ;  they 
then  extricated  the  donkey  and  after  much  per- 
suasion got  it  on  the  rock  and  again  placed  on  the 
load.  By  the  time  we  reached  the  summit,  darkness 
had  overtaken  us  and  we  were  obliged  to  make  the 
descent  in  the  dark.  Wre  knew  not  where  we  were 


170 


AFRICA 


Kwidine  Taking  His  Aunt  to  Church. 
Matopo   M.    Hospital. 


MATOPO   MISSION 


171 


going,  and  were  frequently  in  danger  of  broken 
limbs  or  becoming  fast  in  the  rocks.  We  were 
very  thankful  when  at  last  at  eleven  o'clock  we 
reached  the  mission  without  any  serious  accident. 
This  was  one  of  Sister  Engle's  first  experiences  in 
Africa,  but  from  her  composure  through  it  all  one 
would  judge  that  she  expected  such  things. 


Christian  Wedding  Reception  Near  Matopo. 

Ndhlalambi  remained  on  at  the  work  in  Mapani 
most  of  the  time  for  one  and  one-half  years,  and 
when  Brother  Doner  at  last  returned  there  were 
some  nearly  ready  for  baptism.  Not  long  after- 
wards thirteen  were  baptized  there  and  proved 
faithful  Christians. 

Brother  and  Sister  Steigerwald  had  now  had  four 
very  strenuous  years  of  work  at  Matopo  and  were  in 


172  AFRICA 

need  of  a  change.  So,  while  the  new  workers  were 
at  Matopo,  the  way  was  opened  for  them  to  go  to 
Cape  Town  over  the  rainy  season.  Here  they  had  a 
good  rest  and  returned  in  April,  1906,  quite  re- 
freshed, ready  to  take  up  their  duties  at  their  station. 
Brother  Doner  also  returned  from  America  at  the 
same  time  and  was  ready  to  resume  work  at  Mapani. 
There  had  been-  some  pupils  attending  school  at 
Matopo  Mission,  from  Mtshabezi  Valley,  south  of 
the  hills,  but  about  fifteen  miles  east  of  Brother 
Doner's  station.  These  had  strongly  urged  that  a 
mission  be  planted  in  their  midst.  Brother  Steiger- 
wald  promised  them  to  consider  the  matter,  and  at 
the  opening  of  the  dry  season  Brother  Frey  went  to 
see  that  part  of  the  country.  He  was  much  pleased 
with  the  outlook  and  felt  led  to  open  work  there. 
This  is  the  origin  of  Mtshabezi  Mission  which  was 
started  in  July,  1906.  The  phenomenal  success  at- 
tending that  work  since  helps  to  confirm  the  belief 
that  it  was  a  work  of  the  Lord's  own  planting. 


CHAPTER   THIRTEEN 

The  Religion  of  the  Matabele  and  Subject 
Tribes 

IN  order  to  understand  a  people  properly  one 
must  know  something  of  their  religious  beliefs ; 
for  all  the  important  actions  of  their  lives  rest 
upon  their  religion.  Find  out  what  a  person  be- 
lieves and  you  have  a  pretty  good  idea  of  his  char- 
acter. A  native  is  loth  to  talk  about  his  religion, 
and  will,  unless  he  fully  understands  and  trusts  the 
questioner,  often  evade  answering  directly  questions 
asked  upon  this  subject.  It  is  somewhat  difficult  to 
dissociate  the  religious  beliefs  of  the  Matabele  from 
those  of  the  first  inhabitants  of  the  country,  as  the 
two  are  so  closely  interwoven. 

It  would  seem  that  all  the  natives,  with  whom  we 
have  come  into  contact,  have  some  conception  of  a 
God,  however  vague  that  conception  may  be.  They 
do  not  as  a  rule  discuss  Him  and  His  attributes 
among  themselves,  and  so  differ  greatly  in  the  at- 
tributes ascribed  to  Him.  They  often  prefer  to  deal 
with  and  worship  the  lesser  spirits,  especially  the 
shades  of  their  ancestors  with  whom  they  are  some- 
what familiar,  than  a  great  God  Whom  they  do  not 
know  and  Whom  they  fear,  for  the  shades  they  think 
can  intercede  for  them.  The  native  is  really  very 
religious,  but  prefers  to  take  that  religion  found 
ready  to  hand  rather  than  to  make  an  attempt  to 
fathom  that  which  he  does  not  understand. 
173 


174  AFRICA 

The  Matabele  when  asked  who  their  god  is  will 
readily  respond  that  it  is  the  King  Umzilikazi.  They 
say,  "  He  gave  us  the  country  and  everything  we 
have,  and  our  customs  and  laws,  and  him  we  wor- 
ship." This  can  be  easily  understood  from  the  be- 
lief of  the  Zulu  tribe,  of  which  this  is  a  branch.  The 
Zulu  will  say  that  Umkulukulu  (the  oldest  or  first 
one)  is  the  one  to  be  worshiped,  as  he  gave  all  the 
rest  their  religion  and  customs.  As  their  ideas  of 
worship  were  very  elastic,  there  was  no  difficulty  in 
including  other  departed  spirits  in  the  list  of  those 
worshiped.  All  who  left  them  could  intercede  for 
them  in  the  spirit  world ;  hence,  when  the  old  queen 
was  buried,  the  woman  who  washed  her  face  just 
before  burial  said,  "  Go  in  peace  and  speak  a  good 
word  for  us  to  the  king,  and  to  those  who  have  gone 
before,  so  that  we  too  may  find  a  place  and  not  be 
found  fault  with." 

This  very  fact,  that  their  religious  beliefs  are  so 
elastic,  makes  missionary  work  often  the  more  diffi- 
cult and  discouraging  among  them.  They  will  quite 
readily  accept  the  God  one  preaches,  and  Christ  as 
the  Savior  of  men,  but  to  their  way  of  thinking  this 
does  not  interfere  with  their  worship.  This  fact 
was  forcibly  thrust  upon  me  one  day  in  coming  to  a 
kraal  near  the  mission  that  had  been  frequently 
visited.  The  people  here  had  much  light  and  often 
came  to  the  services,  and  their  son  Masikwa  was  a 
baptized  member.  On  this  occasion  we  found  the 
older  people  worshiping  the  spirits,  and  said  to  the 
woman, 

"How  is  this?  We  thought  that  you  worshiped 
the  Lord  Jesus." 


MATOPO  MISSION  175 

"Oh!  yes,  we  do,"  she  replied,  "He  is  the  Big 
Spirit  and  we  worship  Him  too." 

It  was  not  at  all  difficult  for  her  to  include  Him 
among  the  number  of  spirits  to  be  worshiped.  She 
was  willing  to  accept  all  who  might  be  able  to  help 
them,  and  even  give  Him  a  large  place  alongside  of 
the  others.  The  fact  that  He  had  been  on  earth  and 
died  only  added  to  the  conception  that  He  was  like 
the  rest.  The  force  of  the  resurrection  idea  she  had 
not  grasped.  It  will  be  readily  seen  how  difficult  it 
is  to  inculcate  the  idea  of  one  Supreme  Being  Who 
alone  should  be  worshiped,  and  Who  is  a  jealous 
God  and  will  brook  no  rivals. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  belief  in  an  intercessor 
has  its  useful  side  in  giving  them  the  Gospel,  for 
we  endeavor  to  impress  upon  their  minds  that  Christ 
is  the  Great  Intercessor,  Who  "  ever  liveth  to  make 
intercession  for  them,"  a  risen  Savior,  not  a  dead 
One.  The  great  question  here  is,  "  Intercede  for 
what?  "  Sins  they  do  not  claim  to  have.  To  them 
religion  has  nothing  to  do  with  morals,  for  neither 
if  they  live  pure  moral  lives  are  they  the  better,  nor 
if  they  are  base  and  licentious  are  they  worse  when 
they  come  to  die.  The  spirits  whom  they  worship 
are  of  their  own  conception  and  have  the  same 
loves  and  hates.  As  Mr.  J.  W.  Jack  says :  "  Down 
all  the  ages  to  the  present  time  so  frightful  have 
been  the  abysses  of  depravity,  the  intolerable  cruel- 
ty, the  extravagances  of  nameless  lust  associated 
with  religion,  that  if  the  veil  were  lifted,  Christian- 
ity could  not  bear  the  story."  The  raw  native  will 
tell  you  that  lying,  stealing,  murder,  and  adultery 


176  AFRICA 

are  bad,  but  they  do  not  look  upon  these  as  having 
anything  to  do  with  their  religion. 

Again,  the  very  fact  that  they  are  so  tolerant  in 
their  religious  views,  and  so  ready  to  include  all, 
led  the  Matabele  early  in  their  history  to  adopt  the 
religion  of  the  conquered  tribes.  The  oldest  and, 
to  them,  the  most  powerful  and  most  widely-wor- 
shiped of  these  heathen  deities  was  Umlimo.  This 
was  the  name  of  one  worshiped  by  the  Makalanga. 
He  was  supposed  to  have  his  abode  in  the  Matopo 
Hills,  several  of  which  places  are  still  pointed  out. 
If  one  may  judge  from  the  information  received 
from  the  natives,  the  worship  greatly  resembled 
that  of  the  ancient  Greek  oracles.  When  any 
important  question  of  the  tribe  was  in  need  of 
solution,  or  even  when  individual  questions  arose, 
they  would  go  to  the  hill  or  cave  in  which  the 
Umlimo  was  supposed  to  have  his  dwelling 
place,  carry  a  present,  perhaps  of  beer,  meat,  or 
other  food,  and,  placing  it  on  the  rock,  remove  to  a 
respectful  distance  and  then  make  known  their 
wants.  They  said  the  answer  would  come  from  the 
very  depths  of  the  earth. 

It  is  said :  "  The  answer  was  given  by  means  of 
ventriloquism  and,  as  the  speaker  was  inside  the 
cave  and  invisible,  the  voice  appeared  to  the  in- 
quirer to  issue  from  the  very  bowels  of  the  earth. 
The  extreme  ingenuity  of  the  device  will  be  better 
appreciated  when  it  is  known  that  the  spirits  of  the 
departed  are  universally  believed  by  the  natives  to 
dwell  in  an  under  world.  For  a  ventriloquist  to 
practice  his  calling  as  a  diviner  in  the  foregoing 
manner  is  probably  not  unworthy  of  that  oracle 


MATOPO   MISSION  177 

which  Socrates  himself  felt  it  necessary  to  consult  at 
Delphi." 

In  this  way  they  would  inquire  as  to  the  cause  of 
drought,  rinderpest  among  the  cattle,  locusts,  and 
the  like,  and  they  were  told  that  these  came  through 
the  white  man.  In  speaking  of  their  worship  some 
would  acknowledge  that  a  priest  dwelt  in  the  cave 
and  received  their  offerings,  and  that  he  would  con- 
sult Umlimo  and  give  forth  the  answer  in  sepulchral 
tones  to  the  worshipers.  This  god  was  also  wor- 
shiped at  the  opening  of  every  year  by  a  great  dance, 
so  that  he  would  send  an  abundance  of  rain.  One 
special  place  of  worship  was  in  a  large  cave  in  the 
midst  of  the  Makalanga  country.  As  this  was  said 
to  be  only  about  five  or  six  miles  from  Mapani  Mis- 
sion, I  had  a  desire  to  visit  the  spot  and  see  what  it 
was  like.  Setyokupi,  one  of  the  first  Christian  girls 
at  Mapani,  offered  to  accompany  Ndhlamlabi  and 
myself  to  the  cave,  as  she  lived  near  the  place  but 
had  never  visited  it.  We  started  early  one  morn- 
ing to  the  home  of  Setyokupi,  which  was  several 
miles  from  the  mission,  and  from  there  continued 
our  journey  to  the  cave.  It  was  much  farther  than 
we  had  anticipated,  and  we  walked  quite  a  dis- 
tance before  reaching  the  immense  kopje,  or  hill  of 
stone,  in  which  the  cave  was.  Then  our  way  wound 
round  and  round  among  the  rocks  for  a  long  dis- 
tance. Setyokupi  saw  that  the  task  was  greater 
than  she  had  anticipated,  and  fearful  of  losing  our- 
selves, we  asked  a  young  lad,  whom  we  met  in  the 
neighborhood,  to  guide  us.  After  reaching  the  cave 
we  were  obliged  to  climb  forty  or  fifty  feet  up  the 
side  of  the  rock  before  we  could  enter. 


178  AFRICA 

It  was  a  large  cave,  extending  back  into  the  rocks, 
and  would  have  formed  several  good-sized  rooms. 
We  had  understood  that  the  worshipers  generally 
took  a  present  and  left  it  in  the  cave.  This  was 
frequently  a  branch  or  twig  of  a  tree;  consequently 
there  were  to  be  seen  in  it  many  dried  leaves  and 
branches  of  trees,  the  thought  in  their  mind  in  this 
connection  being  no  doubt  similar  to  that  of  the 
olive  branch  of  peace.  There  were  also  a  few  old 
ornaments  and  cloth,  but  nothing  of  value.  Here 
it  was  said  the  people  came  to  have  their  yearly 
dance  and  pray  for  rain.  Everything  on  the  inside 
was  quite  old,  and  it  looked  as  if  the  place  had  not 
been  visited  lately,  but  we  were  informed  that  there 
was  another  and  more  important  place  of  worship  in 
the  vicinity  in  which  there  was  a  pool  of  water. 
This  we  did  not  see,  nor  did  we  learn  of  its  location. 
The  day  was  fast  passing  and  we  were  obliged  to 
hasten  back  to  the  mission. 

At  this  time,  1905,  Europeans  had  already  been 
fifteen  years  in  some  parts  of  the  country  and  the 
natives  about  Matopo  Mission  were  always  quite 
willing  for  anyone  to  be  present  at  their  religious 
festivals.  Many  were  beginning  to  throw  off  some 
of  their  old  superstitious  ideas,  and  some  were  ac- 
cepting Christ ;  so  there  was  no  thought  of  impropri- 
ety in  our  making  this  tour  of  investigation.  The 
account  of  it  no  doubt  came  out  through  the  little 
boy  who  accompanied  us,  and  although  these  na- 
tives in  Mapaniland  were  more  raw  than  those 
about  Matopo  Mission,  perhaps  nothing  further 
would  have  been  thought  of  the  visit,  had  the  rains 
come  on  that  year  at  the  usual  time.  Unfortunately 


MATOPO    MISSION       \  179 

they  were  exceptionally  late,  not  really  coming  un- 
til the  first  of  January,  and  the  people  were  becom- 
ing desperate.  It  is  always  necessary  for  the  heath- 
en to  let  the  blame  rest  somewhere,  and  as  the 
witch  doctors  and  diviners  generally  hate  the  mis- 
sionaries because  of  their  loss  of  custom  and  pres- 
tige, so  they  naturally  put  the  blame  upon  our  visit 
to  the  cave.  I  never  learned  that  they  placed  the 
blame  upon  myself,  but  they  did  upon  those  who 
accompanied  me.  Ndhlalambi's  life  was  really  in 
danger  that  year  and  his  people  were  much  con- 
cerned for  his  safety.  He,  however,  did  not  seem 
concerned  about  himself  and  continued  to  go  back 
and  forth  and  see  about  the  work  at  Mapani.  Sev- 
eral years  later  Setyokupi,  who  is  a  most  devoted 
Christian,  had  to  bear  the  blame  from  the  older 
people  for  a  similar  drought,  the  years  of  plenty 
intervening  being  overlooked.  We  as  missionaries, 
however,  always  try  to  be  careful  not  to  stir  up 
unecessarily  the  opposition  of  the  natives. 

According  to  some  of  the  older  natives  Umlimo 
is  worshiped  under  various  names ;  in  fact,  there  is 
a  trinity.  In  the  hills  to  the  south  is  the  father, 
Shologulu.  He  is  stern  and  unbending  and  is  to 
be  greatly  feared.  In  the  east  is  the  son,  Lunzi,  who 
is  kind  and  easy  to  be  entreated.  The  mother, 
Banyanchaba,  is  in  the  north.  Just  how  much  tra- 
dition, handed  down  from  Christianity,  is  embodied 
in  this  idea  cannot  be  ascertained,  but  the  belief  is 
quite  ancient. 

Again,  some  of  the  natives  say  that  certain  of  the 
people  at  times  claimed  to  be  Umlimo  and  to  have 
the  power  ascribed  to  him.  One  of  these  was  a 


180  AFRICA 

woman  whom  the  king,  in  order  to  test  her  power, 
put  in  a  hut  near  him.  He  convinced  himself  of  her 
false  pretenses  and  punished  her  accordingly. 

In  a  general  way  natives  do  not  concern  them- 
selves about  a  Supreme  God.  Some,  of  course,  will 
readily  say  that  He  made  everything.  Again  we 
have  inquired  of  others, 

"  Who  made  the  trees,  the  rocks,  the  grass?  " 

They  will  answer,  "  We  came  here  and  found 
them  already  created,  so  we  did  not  concern  our- 
selves to  inquire  who  made  them." 

This  indifference  or  spiritual  laziness  had  much  to 
do  with  their  religion.  On  another  occasion  we 
were  speaking  with  a  native  living  near  Mapani 
Mission,  and  were  telling  him  that  he  ought  to 
repent  and  accept  Christ  as  his  Savior.  To  excuse 
himself  he  said: 

"  He  made  me.  He  brought  me  into  the  world 
and  it  is  His  business  to  boss  me  up." 

He  really  meant  to  say,  "  I  am  here  by  no  choice 
of  my  own.  He  made  me.  I  am  His  and  He  has  a 
right  to  do  as  He  pleases  with  me." 

This  idea  of  fate  runs  through  all  their  beliefs. 
They  have  no  volition  of  their  own.  Everything 
that  comes  to  them,  whether  of  accident,  sickness, 
ill  luck,  or  whatever  it  may  be,  is  the  result  of 
malevolent  spirits  which  are  in  league  against  them. 
In  fact,  all  their  worship  is  one  of  the  propitiation 
of  the  malevolent  spirits.  Good  spirits  will  not 
harm  them. 

One  day  in  the  Sabbath-school  class,  where  ques- 
tions were  freely  asked,  one  of  the  older  men  said, 
"  Since  I  hear  you  tell  who  God  is  and  what  He 


MATOPO    MISSION  181 

likes,  and  who  Satan  is  and  what  he  does,  I  see  that 
our  god,  whom  we  have  been  worshiping,  is  Satan 
himself." 

The  amadhlozi  (spirits  of  the  departed)  are  con- 
stantly besetting  their  path,  causing  sickness  or  mis- 
fortune, or  else  helping  them  to  do  what  they  de- 
sire. Their  expression  for  ill  luck  is  Angi  ladhlozi 
(I  do  not  have  any  spirit).  When  sick  they  send 
for  the  witch  doctor  to  tell  where  the  trouble  is.  He 
may  say  that  one  of  the  spirits  thinks  he  had  not 
been  properly  treated  and  wishes  a  goat.  The  goat 
is  brought  and  killed,  and  a  small  portion  of  meat 
is  used  with  medicine  for  the  sick,  but  by  far  the 
greater  part  of  the  meat  is  generally  appropriated 
by  the  witch  doctor  himself,  who  was  no  doubt  more' 
desirous  of  it  than  the  shades. 

If  health  is  not  forthcoming  for  the  sick,  he  is 
certainly  bewitched.  This  is  generally  the  belief 
when  one  dies  or  is  suffering  from  an  incurable 
disease.  The  witch  doctor  then  takes  his  "  bones  " 
and  "  smells  out "  the  supposed  witch,  and  he  is 
very  careful  to  select  as  his  victim  one  who  is  not 
very  popular  in  the  community  by  reason  of  his 
wealth  or  other  circumstances.  This  one  is  accused 
of  bewitching,  and  is  ignominiously  put  to  death, 
and  all  his  property  confiscated. 

Since  the  occupation  of  the  country  by  the  En- 
glish much  of  this  killing  of  supposed  witches  is 
done  away  with,  but  there  are  still  violent  deaths, 
which  looks  suspicious.  Since  our  stay  at  Matopo 
there  was  an  instance  of  an  old  woman  being' 
drowned,  which  was  traced  directly  to  the  witch 
doctor  and  he  was  punished.  There  were  also  sev- 


182  AFRICA 

eral  instances  of  supposed  suicide  by  hanging,  which 
looked  as  if  there  might  have  been  foul  play,  but 
which  could  not  be  ferreted.  It  is  not  unusual  for 
the  old  or  infirm  to  be  gotten  rid  of  in  this  way, 
especially  by  the  ordeal  of  drinking  poison. 

It  would  be  unjust  to  say  that  their  doctors  never 
use  remedies ;  in  fact,  they  have  many  herbs  which 
they  use  and  some  of  these  are  very  efficacious.  In 
fever  we  have  seen  them  administer  a  greenish-look- 
ing powder  of  a  native  herb,  which  tasted  much  like 
quinine,  and  we  were  surprised  once  to  see  a  na- 
tive physician  pass  through  the  mission  premises 
with  a  wallet  full  of  various  kinds  of  herbs.  He  had 
a  pass  from  the  magistrate  to  practice  among  the 
natives,  and  he  proudly  opened  his  wallet  and  dis- 
played his  drugs.  Notwithstanding  that  they  have 
these  remedies,  yet,  in  practice,  this  is  often  so 
mixed  with  charms  and  other  superstitious  ideas, 
that  it  is  difficult  to  tell  wherein  the  real  remedy  lies. 
A  witch  doctor,  who  lived  near  us  and  who  had 
much  light,  exclaimed  one  day,  "  I  can  give  medi- 
cine, and  if  the  Lord  says  the  sick  will  recover,  he 
will  recover ;  if  He  says  the  sick  one  will  die,  he  will 
die ;  my  medicine  cannot  save  him." 

When  one  treats  a  native  in  his  home  for  any  dis- 
ease, it  is  always  difficult  to  induce  his  people  to 
follow  the  prescribed  treatment ;  for  they  desire  of- 
ten to  use  their  arts  as  well.  A  case  of  scurvy  was 
at  one  of  the  villages,  and  they  came  to  the  mission 
for  help.  We  went  over.  The  boy  had  been  losing 
blood  for  several  days  and  was  very  weak,  seeming- 
ly in  the  last  stages  of  the  disease.  They  had  been 
using  their  arts,  but  to  no  avail,  and  had  come  to 


MATOPO   MISSION  183 

the  mission  as  a  last  resort.  Elder  Steigerwald  re- 
proved them  for  waiting  so  long,  and  took  hold  of 
the  case,  hoping  still  to  save  him.  After  looking  to 
the  Lord  for  guidance,  he  managed  to  get  the  bleed- 
ing stopped,  but  to  see  that  everything  was  properly 
carried  out  one  of  us  remained  for  a  time  at  the 
kraal.  When  he  was  thought  to  be  out  of  danger  he 
was  left  with  his  people,  with  strict  injunctions  to 
do  just  as  they  were  told.  When  the  patient  was 
next  visited  it  was  found  that  the  people  had  again 
brought  out  their  charms  and  put  them  about  his 
head,  and  it  was  necessary  to  frighten  them  thor- 
oughly before  they  would  follow  instructions. 

Parents  are  always  very  anxious  to  have  their 
children  at  home  if  they  become  sick. '  This  may 
partly  be  owing  to  natural  solicitation  on  the  part 
of  the  parents,  for  they  love  their  children  as  well  as 
white  parents  do,  but  it  is  also  due  to  the  fact  that 
they  cannot  use  their  divinations  properly  except 
at  home.  Then,  too,  if  they  die,  they  are  always 
anxious  that  their  people  die  at  home.  In  this  way 
we  often  had  great  difficulty  in  keeping  at  the  mis- 
sion some  who  were  sick  and  needed  care. 

One  of  our  boys  was  very  sick  and  we  had  been 
unable  to  help  him,  and  both  he  and  ourselves  were 
looking  to  the  Lord  in  his  behalf.  He  was  a  good 
Christian  and  perfectly  conscious  all  the  time,  and 
quite  ready  and  willing  to  die  if  such  was  the  Lord's 
will.  His  parents  lived  near  and  had  been  trying  to 
take  him  home,  but  he  did  not  wish  to  go ;  and  we 
too  thought  it  best  for  him  to  remain  under  our  care. 
When  he  became  very  low,  it  was  necessary  to  in- 
form his  parents.  The  father,  who  was  a  very  vio- 


184  AFRICA 

lent  and  wrathy  man,  was  determined  to  take  the 
boy  home,  but  we  felt  sure  that  a  move  at  that 
time  would  be  fatal,  and  told  the  father  so. 

He  replied,  "  I'll  take  him  home  if  he  dies  on  the 
way.  I'll  not  have  it  said  that  my  child  died  and 
was  buried  away  from  home."  And  it  was  with 
great  difficulty  that  he  could  be  prevailed  upon  to 
let  the  boy  remain.  The  Lord  heard  our  prayer  in 
his  behalf  and  he  recovered. 

From  what  has  been  written  it  may  readily  be 
seen  that  the  African  believes  in  the  immortality  of 
the  soul ;  that  the  souls  of  the  departed  take  cogni- 
zance of  what  is  done  on  the  earth  by  the  survivors ; 
and  that  they  have  power  over  those  who  dwell  on 
the  earth  to  help,  harm,  or  intercede  in  their  behalf. 
They  also  believe  in  transmigration  of  souls,  that 
the  spirit  of  the  departed  often  enters  a  snake,  bird, 
lion,  rhinoceros,  or  other  animals,  each  of  these 
tribes  having  its  own  especial  animal.  This  does 
not  necessarily  imply  that  the  soul  remains  in  these 
forms.  Frequently  they  speak  of  the  animals  as 
only  a  medium  through  which  the  spirit  appears  to 
its  friends. 

The  Matabele  revere  the  snake  and  will  not  kill  it. 
The  first  year  of  the  mission  a  long  snake  entered 
one  of  the  huts,  that  was  in  process  of  erection,  and 
climbed  up  near  the  roof.  I  told  one  of  the  boys  to 
knock  it  down  and  kill  it.  He  recoiled  from  the  idea 
and  refused.  Thinking  he  was  afraid  I  took  a  hoe, 
knocked  it  down  and  killed  it.  When  other  natives 
came  to  the  mission  the  incident  was  related  to 
them  by  the  boys  and  they  expressed  great  sur- 
prise. I  rather  supposed  that  they  were  surprised 


MATOPO    MISSION  185 

at  my,  prowess,  until  one  woman  who  knew  me 
better  than  the  others  exclaimed,  "  Were  you  not 
afraid  to  kill  it?  Perhaps  it  was  one  of  your  friends." 
I  then  found  out  that  the  snake  was  an  object  of 
reverence. 

Matshuba  said  that  when  his  father  was  ill  a 
snake  entered  his  hut  and  he  exclaimed,  "  That  looks 
like  a  child  of  mine,  it  is  so  pretty.  It  is  your 
brother,  Matshuba." 

"  Is  that  the  reason,"  we  inquired,  "  why  so  many 
people  are  afraid  to  kill  snakes?  " 

"  Yes,"  he  replied,  "  they  think  their  friends  come 
to  visit  them  in  this  form." 

Again,  once  while  out  kraal-visiting  we  were 
speaking  to  some  people  who  were  working  in  their 
garden.  Some  one  came  from  their  kraal  with  a 
message  of  some  kind,  and  soon  all  was  commotion 
and  hurry. 

I  inquired,  "  What  is  the  matter?  Where  are  you 
going?" 

They  answered,  "  Two  snakes  have  entered  our 
hut  and  we  must  go  and  see  them." 

"  Will  you  kill  them?  " 

"  No,  they  are  probably  some  of  our  friends,  who 
have  come  to  visit  us,"  was  the  reply. 

The  people  were  also  accustomed  to  use  a  goat 
in  their  worship  and  then  drive  it  away  on  the  veldt. 
I  know  very  little  of  this  ceremony,  except  that 
when  it  was  told  to  me,  I  was  forcibly  reminded  of 
the  "  scapegoat  "  of  the  Israelites.  Each  family  also 
has  a  sacred  ox  or  cow  among  the  herd.  They  do  not 
worship  images,  and  are  surprised  to  find  that  there 
are  people  on  earth  who  do.  Two  of  the  boys  in 


186  AFRICA 

reading  their  Bibles  one  day  learned  for  the  first 
time  that  some  people  worship  images  made  by 
men's  hand,  and  they  were  as  much  surprised  as 
any  white  child  couM  have  been. 

"  Do  they  answer  v.heir  prayers?"  inquired  they. 
"Can  they  talk,  or  do  they  know  anything?  Is  it 
something  like  we  make  cattle  out  of  mud  to  play 
with  ?  " 

We  are  accustomed  to  despise  people  who  wor- 
ship animals,  and  it  is  certainly  not  very  elevating ; 
but  they  are  God's  handiwork,  and  are  they  not 
superior  to  many  of  the  hideous  images  of  idolatrous 
nations?  When  these  people  do  worship,  the  object 
of  their  reverence  is  not  the  animal,  but  the  souls  of 
their  people  who  they  think  enter  the  animals. 

Spiritualism  is  a  legitimate  product  of  their  be- 
liefs. I  can  best  illustrate  this  feature  of  their  wor- 
ship by  giving  an  instance  which  came  to  our  notice 
in  the  year  1900.  It  was  a  religious  dance.  The 
chief  actors  had  come  from  a  distance  and  the  wor- 
ship was  in  honor  of  one  of  their  dead  relatives,  the 
aim  being  to  bring  back  the  soul  and  hold  conference 
with  it  through  one  who  acted  as  medium. 

We  felt  to  avail  ourselves  of  this  opportunity  of 
seeing  something  of  their  worship,  that  we  might 
have  a  better  understanding  of  the  same.  The  moth- 
er of  Kelenki,  one  of  our  converts,  participated  and 
she,  heathenlike,  was  anxious  to  have  her  boy  take 
part,  but  he  of  course  refused,  as  he  had  always  done 
when  urged  to  join  with  them.  It  was  only  about 
two  miles  from  the  mission,  so  Brother  and  Sister 
Lehman  and  myself  went  over  for  a  short  time. 
We  entered  the  village  at  about  3  P.  M.  and  found 


MATOPO   MISSION  187 

about  one  hundred  people  assembled.  They  had 
just  been  drinking  beer  and  were  feeling  quite  good. 
As  many  of  them  knew  us,  they  greeted  us  quite 
pleasantly,  nothing  loath  to  see  us  on  this  occasion, 
provided  we  did  not  interfere  in  their  worship. 

One  of  the  most  noticeable  features  at  first  was 
the  evident  attempt  at  ornamentation  on  the  part  of 
the  women,  especially  the  older  women  who  were 
to  take  active  part  in  the  proceedings.  We  might 
add  that  only  the  older  people  took  part  in  this 
dance,  and  that  the  ornamentation  of  the  body  is 
always  a  noticeable  feature  of  their  worship.  Their 
dress,  or  rather  undress,  consisted  of  a  short  skirt 
of  dirty,  greasy  leather,  covered  with  a  heavy  em- 
broidery of  bright-colored  beads.  The  rest  of  the 
body  was  ornamented  with  beads  and  heavy  brass 
rings,  neck,  waist,  arms,  and  ankles  being  heavily 
laden.  The  headdress  consisted  of  a  broad  band  of 
beads  artistically  put  together. 

Our  attention  was  soon  drawn  to  three  women 
seated  on  the  ground  before  one  of  the  huts,  each 
with  a  large  drum  made  from  a  hollowed  log,  over 
one  end  of  which  was  a  skin  tightly  drawn.  On  this 
drum  they  were  beating  with  their  hands  and  ac- 
companying the  sound  with  low,  plaintive  singing. 
Presently  a  man,  who  proved  to  be  the  leader,  or 
medium,  stepped  out,  beating  at  the  same  time  on  a 
drum  made  of  a  broad  wooden  hoop,  over  which 
was  stretched  a  piece  of  skin.  He  was  a  tall,  ath- 
letic-looking fellow,  clothed  in  a  short  skirt  similar 
to  that  worn  by  the  women.  He  had  many  yards 
of  blue  cloth  wrapped  about  his  body  and  a  yellow 
scarf  thrown  over  one  shoulder.  The  drum  which 


188  AFRICA 

was  beaten  with  a  stick  produced  a  sharp  ringing 
sound,  and  he  danced  with  a  peculiar  backward 
step,  keeping  time  to  the  beating  of  his  drum,  and 
sang,  calling  upon  the  shades.  To  this  the  women, 
beating  the  drums  or  tomtoms,  would  respond.  A 
number  of  other  men  with  similar  drums  joined  him 
in  the  dance,  and  the  air  was  filled  with  their  melody. 

This  was  continued  for  some  time,  when  all  sud- 
denly ceased  and  disappeared  within  a  hut  and  con- 
tinued their  dance  within.  We  were  invited  to 
enter,  and  after  creeping  through  the  low  doorway 
we  found  ourselves  in  a  hut  about  eighteen  feet  in 
diameter,  with  a  somewhat  higher  roof  than  is  to 
be  found  in  many  native  huts.  The  performance 
was  similar  to  that  on  the  outside,  except  that  oth- 
ers joined  in  the  dance,  but  all  danced  alone.  The 
actions  and  contortions  of  the  body  became  more 
and  more  rapid  and  violent,  and  there  was  also 
leaping  and  jumping,  the  heat  and  violent  exertion 
of  the  body  causing  the  perspiration  to  flow  freely. 

The  medium  finally  worked  himself  up  into  sort 
of  a  frenzy  and  announced  that  a  spirit  had  entered 
the  door.  With  this  he  pretended  to  enter  into  con- 
versation, but  as  he  spoke  in  the  Shuna  language  we 
did  not  understand  him.  The  dancers  all  finally 
rushed  out  on  the  rocks  and  the  leader  fell  down  ex- 
hausted. After  their  return  the  same  motions  were 
continued,  but  a  new  feature  was  added  by  women 
entering,  having  native-made  bells  tied  to  their 
ankles,  and  these  added  to  the  general  din.  The 
motions  of  all  were  more  or  less  similar,  and  even 
when  the  actions  and  contortions  of  the  body. were 
the  most  violent,  they  were  somewhat  rhythmical. 


MATOPO    MISSION  189 

The  noise  was  deafening  in  the  extreme,  and  would 
have  surely  waked  the  dead  were  such  a  thing  pos- 
sible. In  addition  to  a  dozen  drums  and  the  bells, 
there  were  yelling,  whistling,  and  singing.  A  huge 
battle-axe  was  handed  around  from  one  to  another, 
and  part  of  the  time  was  dangling  on  the  neck  of 
the  leader.  Sad  as  one  felt  at  the  delusion  under 
which  they  labored,  he  could  not  but  be  impressed 
by  their  evident  earnestness,  and  only  wished  it 
might  be  expended  in  a  better  cause. 

They  did  not  forget  our  presence,  and  no  doubt 
we  did  interfere  with  the  freedom  of  their  actions. 
The  medium  came  toward  us  several  times,  beating 
his  drum.  Thinking  he  might  be  annoyed  at  our 
presence  we  spoke  to  the  headman,  but  he  hastened 
to  assure  us  that  we  were  welcome  to  remain.  In 
fact,  he  as  well  as  many  others  in  the  kraal,  seemed 
to  be  spectators  rather  than  participants  in  the  wor- 
ship. 

They  finally  became  quiet  and  the  medium  again 
claimed  to  converse  with  the  departed,  aftd  this  time 
one  of  our  boys  interpreted.  Of  course  both  ques- 
tions and  answers  were  given  by  the  medium. 
Among  other  things  he  said :  "  I  see  a  spirit  enter 
the  door.  It  says,  'Who  are  these  white  people? 
Are  they  the  people  who  killed  the  Matabele?  '  No, 
they  are  missionaries  and  like  the  black  people."  It 
seemed  evident  that  not  only  the  spirit  but  some  of 
the  strangers  present  were  somewhat  afraid  and 
needed  assurance  that  we  were  harmless. 

We  returned  home  sad  at  heart  for  their  heathen- 
dom. We  were  informed  that  this  worship  con- 
tinued until  late  in  the  night  and  two  days  follow- 


190  AFRICA 

ing.  There  was  much  beer  drinking  and  immoral- 
ity, so  that  even  some  of  the  heathen  in  the  kraal 
were  thoroughly  disgusted. 

The  Matabele  do  not  use  drums  in  their  religious 
dance  like  the  Mashona.  Once  when  we  were  out 
kraal  visiting  we  happened  to  come  upon  some  of 
these  worshiping  at  Fusi's  kraal.  We  stopped  only 
a  few  minutes  to  see  what  they  were  doing,  and  were 
greatly  shocked  by  the  hideousness  of  their  looks 
and  actions.  The  very  stamp  of  the  bottomless  pit 
seemed  impressed  upon  their  features. 

Heathen  worship,  heathen  dances,  and  hideous 
rites  are  becoming  less  and  less  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  mission,  for  the  natives  are  fast  losing  faith  in 
their  old  religion.  The  missionaries  need  a  great 
deal  of  patience,  forbearance,  and  firmness  in  deal- 
ing with  the  perplexing  problems  in  reference  to  the 
natives'  beliefs,  but  in  the  end  God's  cause  is  sure 
to  win. 


CHAPTER    FOURTEEN 
Some  of  the  Customs 

CUSTOM  is  so  interwoven  with  and  dependent 
upon  religion  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to 
dissociate  the  two,  so  there  is  a  difference  of 
opinion  as  to  what  constitutes  custom  and  what  re- 
ligion. \Yhatever  the  natives  believe  or  practice 
has  in  their  estimation  been  given  them  by  their 
god,  even  to  the  ornaments  of  their  bodies.  As  Rev. 
W.  Chapman  says,  "  The  most  satisfactory  way  of 
changing  native  customs  is  by  changing  his  relig- 
ion." On  the  other  hand,  take  away  the  native's 
religion  and  the  restraints  which  often  accompany  it, 
and  place  him  in  a  modern  city,  with  its  so-called 
modern  civilization,  without  the  restraining  influ- 
ences of  the  Christian  religion,  and  a  monstrosity 
of  evil  is  often  the  result. 

From  infancy  this  inexorable  law,  custom,  assails 
him.  He  must  not  step  aside  from  the  laws  of  his 
ancestors  or  he  will  suffer  the  consequences.  If 
twins  are  born,  they  must  be  put  to  death.  If  a 
child  cuts  his  upper  front  teeth  first  instead  of  the 
lower,  again  death  is  the  penalty.  Not  because  the 
mother  does  not  love  her  child.  It  is  just  as  dear 
to  her  as  the  child  of  Christian  parents  is  to  them, 
and  generally  no  amount  of  money  will  induce  her 
to  part  with  it,  but  this  infant  is  departing  from  the 
customs  followed  by  its  ancestors,  and  if  its  pre- 
191 


192  AFRICA 

cocity  leads  it  thus  early  to  change  the  customs, 
what  will  it  not  do  as  it  becomes  older?  It  is  a 
monstrosity  and  must  be  dealt  with  accordingly. 

If  the  child  is  a  girl,  it  may  at  any  time  after 
birth  be  betrothed  or  sold  to  a  man  for  his  wife,  and 
a  part  or  all  of  the  pay  be  given  to  the  parents  to 
bind  the  contract.  This  intended  husband  may  be 
already  middle-aged  or  old,  with  several  wives. 
That  is  to  his  credit,  because  it  frequently  means 
that  he  is  rich  or  a  man  of  importance  in  the  com- 
munity. An  old,  gray-haired  man  living  near  the 
mission  had  nine  wives  when  we  arrived  on  the 
scene,  some  of  whom  were  just  young  girls.  How- 
ever, one  frequently  meets  with  heathen  natives 
who  have  only  one  wife. 

The  would-be  bridegroom  sends  some  one  to  the 
father  or  guardian  of  the  girl  to  ask  for  her  hand  in 
marriage.  He  consults  his  relatives  in  reference  to 
the  matter,  but  even  if  they  disagree,  he  may  give 
his  consent,  for  he  alone  receives  the  pay.  This 
may  be  in  the  form  of  cattle,  sheep,  or  goats,  or  even 
money  in  later  years,  and  the  amount  of  pay  the 
man  can  or  is  willing  to  give  had  much  to  do  with 
the  father's  consent.  Of  course  the  girl  has  no  say 
in  the  affair,  and  may  not,  until  she  is  older,  know 
who  her  intended  husband  is.  If  she  is  small,  he 
waits  until  she  is  about  grown  before  the  actual 
marriage  takes  place,  but  in  the  meantime  she  is 
looked  upon  as  his  prospective  wife  and  is  often 
thoroughly  demoralized  before  marriage. 

Before  the  missionaries  or  Europeans  came  to  the 
country,  it  is  doubtful  whether  the  girl  rebelled 
much  as  to  what  disposition  was  made  of  her,  for 


MATOPO  MISSION  193 

one  choice  was  about  the  same  as  another,  only  so 
that  she  might  become  a  married  woman.  In  their 
eyes  it  was  almost  a  disgrace  to  be  unmarried  after 
they  had  reached  the  proper  age. 

It  is  said  that  when  the  time  came  for  her  to  be 
married  she  would  say,  "  I  am  grown  and  want  to 
marry."  At  first  her  people  refuse,  but  finally  they 
give  her  a  hoe  and  showing  her  a  piece  of  raw  veldt 
say,  "  Show  how  you  can  dig,  so  that  we  may  see 
whether  you  have  strength  to  perform  the  work  of  a 
wife."  She  takes  the  hoe  and  shows  her  strength 
by  vigorous  work ;  for  is  she  not  to  take  the  place 
of  oxen  or  donkeys  for  her  husband  and  plow  and 
sow  his  gardens?  This  is  no  exaggeration,  for  more 
than  one  native  has  been  heard  to  exclaim,  "  These 
are  my  oxen,"  pointing  to  his  wives,  the  chief  dif- 
ference being  that  whereas  the  oxen  get  some  time 
to  rest  and  eat,  the  wife  gets  little,  as  she  must 
grind  and  prepare  the  food  in  the  interim  of  digging. 

When  the  day  set  for  the  wedding  arrives,  a  num- 
ber of  girls  of  about  her  own  age  are  called  and  they 
have  a  feast,  often  of  goat,  after  which  they  accom- 
pany the  bride  to  the  home  of  the  bridegroom,  an 
old  woman,  carrying  a  knife,  leading  the  way.  Here 
they  are  assigned  their  places  and  various  cere- 
monies. The  wedding  lasts  several  days  and  ends 
in  a  feast,  and  very  often  much  immorality  is  con- 
nected with  it.  During  a  certain  stage  of  the  cere- 
mony the  bride  runs  and  hides,  not  again  making 
her  appearance  until  she  is  found  by  the  others. 

So-called  marriages  sometimes  take  place  without 
any  pay  being  given  for  the  wife,  but  in  such  in- 
stances the  children  do  not  belong  to  or  are  not 


194  AFRICA 

under  the  control  of  their  parents ;  they  belong  to 
the  father  or  guardian  of  the  wife,  as  she  has  not 
been  paid  for.  It  may  thus  be  seen  that  the  giving 
of  pay  is  not  an  unmitigated  evil,  as  it  leaves  the 
children  in  the  hands  of  their  natural  guardians,  the 
parents.  With  the  wife  the  pay  is  merely  changing 
her  from  the  ownership  of  her  father  to  that  of  her 
husband,  and  if  she  should  leave  her  husband,  the 
pay  or  part  of  it  must  be  returned  to  him. 

It  frequently  happens  that  a  man  takes  a  wife 
according  to  native  marriage  without  paying  for 
her,  and  afterwards,  if  he  desires  to  retain  her  or 
her  children,  he  pays  the  father  for  her.  A  native  in 
the  vicinity  of  Matopo  had,  in  this  manner,  taken 
five  wives,  at  various  times,  without  paying  for  any 
of  them.  When  some  of  his  children  became  of  an 
age  that  his  wives'  parents  desired  to  take  them,  he 
took  steps  to  secure  them  by  paying  for  his  wives. 
One,  however,  whom  he  did  not  like,  he  drove  away 
without  paying  for  her.  These  things  show  that 
the  marriage  vow  is  exceedingly  loose  and  leads  to 
much  immorality.  Several  years  after  we  came  to 
Matopo  Hills  a  law  was  passed  by  the  British  Gov- 
ernment, allowing  the  girls  some  freedom  of  choice 
in  regard  to  the  marriage  question,  and  it  is  now 
possible  for  Christian  girls  to  choose  Christian  hus- 
bands. 

A  man  will  have  a  hut  for  himself  and  one  for 
each  of  his  wives,  and  the  more  wives  he  has,  the 
greater  his  importance  in  the  community.  I  think 
that  it  is  safe  to  say  that  an  old  heathen's  ambition 
is  to  have  many  wives,  each  with  her  hut,  about  him, 
many  sons,  who  too,  with  their  wives,  add  to  the 


MATOPO    MISSION  195 

number  of  huts,  and  many  daughters,  that  he  may 
sell  them  for  cattle  or  sheep  and  thus  increase  his 
flocks  and  herds.  He  also  likes  to  have  nephews, 
younger  brothers,  and  other  relatives  with  their 
wives  come  to  him  and  swell  the  number  of  huts. 
This  makes  a  large  number  of  huts,  large  herds,  and 
he  becomes  an  important  headman ;  or  if  his  follow- 
ers increase  sufficiently  he  may  become  a  chief. 
These  huts,  built  near  together  and  often  enclosed 
with  a  fence,  are  what  constitute  a  kraal.  This  is  a 
Dutch  word  and  applies  only  to  native  villages,  but 
there  may  be  only  three  or  four  huts  and  it  still  be 
called  a  kraal. 

Their  huts  are  built  of  poles  and  mud,  much  as 
described  in  the  making  of  our  own,  except  that  the 
huts  of  the  raw  natives  are  much  lower,  without 
windows  and  with  a  doorway  only  about  three  feet 
in  height.  Sometimes  no  poles  are  used  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  walls,  but  they  are  moulded  of  earth 
from  the  bottom  up  and  are  well  made.  The  floor 
is  made  of  ant-hill  earth,  well  pounded.  This  is 
then  covered  with  a  thin  coat  of  black  earth  and 
polished  with  stones  until  it  looks  not  unlike  a 
nicely-polished  wooden  floor.  The  Matabele  build 
much  better  huts  than  some  of  the  subject  tribes; 
these  latter  are  good  farmers,  but  often  have  most 
miserable-looking  huts. 

There  is  no  furniture  proper  in  the  huts.  The  bed 
consists  of  a  mat  or  hide  spread  on  the  floor  at 
night.  During  the  day  this,  together  with  the 
blankets,  is  rolled  up  and  tied  to  the  roof  of  the  hut. 
The  pillow  is  made  from  a  block  of  wood,  and  there 
are  no  chairs,  a  small  mat  answering  for  this  pur- 


196 


AFRICA 


MATOPO   MISSION  197 

pose.  They  have  earthen  pots  for  cooking  and 
brewing  beer  and  for  various  purposes.  They  have 
many  kinds  of  nicely-woven  baskets,  and  gourds 
for  carrying  and  dipping  water  as  well  as  for  drink- 
ing vessels.  There  are  also  the  necessary  stamping 
block  and  a  large  flat  stone  on  which  the  grain  is 
ground.  The  wash  basin  is  the  mouth.  The  mouth 
is  filled  with  water,  which  is  allowed  to  run  in  a 
thin  stream  on  the  hands  until  they  are  washed, 
and  then  the  hands  are  filled  in  the  same  way  to 
wash  the  face.  I  was  greatly  interested  once  in 
the  operation  of  bathing  twins.  This  mother  had 
sufficient  light  to  keep  her  from  killing  her  babies 
because  there  were  two  of  them.  She  spread  a 
blanket  on  a  large  rock  in  the  sun.  Then  she  took 
a  gourd  of  water  and  filled  her  mouth.  (It  is  sur- 
prising how  much  water  they  can  hold  in  the  mouth  ; 
practice  aids  greatly  in  this,  no  doubt.)  She  kept 
the  water  in  her  mouth  a  short  time  to  take  off  the 
chill,  then  picked  up  one  child,  held  it  out  and,  with 
a  thin  stream  of  water  pouring  from  her  mouth, 
washed  the  entire  body  of  the  child  thoroughly. 
After  this  ablution  she  laid  it  on  the  blanket  in  the 
sun  to  dry.  She  again  filled  her  mouth  and  taking 
the  other  baby  repeated  the  process  and  also  placed 
it  on  the  blanket.  The  children  were  evidently  ac- 
customed to  such  baths ;  for  they  took  it  all  quietly, 
and  perhaps  enjoyed  it  as  much  as  a  white  child  in 
a  bath  tub  of  warm  water. 

Polygamy  is  not  necessarily  opposed  among  some 
of  the  heathen  women.  They  will  frequently  tell 
you,  "  I  like  my  husband  to  have  more  than  one 
wife ;  then  I  do  not  need  to  work  so  hard."  It  is, 


198  AFRICA 

however,  a  source  of  much  dissension  and  rivalry 
among  them  and  a  cause  of  much  favoritism  among 
the  children.  One  day  Gomo  was  reading  the  story 
of  Joseph  and  Benjamin.  He  exclaimed,  "  That  is 
just  like  our  people.  The  children  of  the  favorite 
wife  are  loved  more  by  the  father."  Of  course  po- 
lygamy is  one  great  drawback  to  the  introduction 
of  Christianity,  but  we  believe  that  it  has  had  its 
day  and  that  in  many  places  it  is  becoming  less  in 
practice.  Each  wife  cooks  of  her  own  food  for  the 
husband  and  places  it  before  him.  He,  with  older 
boys,  eats  what  he  desires  and  leaves  the  balance, 
if  there  be  any,  for  the  wife  and  her  children.  If  he 
has  many  wives  a  number  of  dishes  are  often  placed 
before  him  during  the  day,  and  he  can  eat  that 
which  he  prefers.  Or,  if  there  are  several  men  in 
the  kraal,  they  often  all  eat  from  one  dish,  and  from 
each  dish  as  it  is  brought  to  them  by  the  various 
wives,  while  the  mother  and  daughters  eat  from  a 
separate  dish. 

Their  chief  occupation  is  farming,  and  they  grow 
corn,  kafir  corn,  millet,  sweet  potatoes,  peanuts, 
ground  peas,  melons,  citrons,  and  pumpkins.  They 
generally  hull  the  grain  and  then  stamp  or  grind  it 
into  a  very  fine  meal  or  flour.  This  they  put  into 
boiling  water  and  make  a  very  stiff  porridge,  or 
mush.  Their  favorite  food  seems  to  be  this  por- 
ridge, eaten  with  meat  into  the  broth  of  which 
ground  peanuts  have  been  cooked.  They  generally 
have  chickens,  sheep,  goats,  or  cattle,  and  often 
hunt  or  trap  game.  Their  usual  way  of  eating  is  to 
allow  the  food  to  cool  a  little  and  then  dip  the  two 
front  fingers  into  the  porridge,  take  a  little  and  dip 


MATOPO    MISSION  199 

it  into  the  gravy  and  then  put  it  into  their  mouth. 
They  also  greatly  relish  green  corn,  eaten  from  the 
cob  or  cut  off  and  ground  on  the  millstones.  This 
milky  meal  is  then  made  into  a  loaf  and  placed  into 
a  kettle  and  thoroughly  steamed.  This  is  their  best 
substitute  for  bread,  and  in  its  season  it  is  consid- 
ered their  most  dainty  dish,  and  with  a  little  salt  it 
is  quite  palatable,  especially  if  not  much  grit  has 
combined  with  it  in  the  process  of  preparation. 

The  African  is  fond  of  his  beer,  which  also  is 
made  by  the  wives.  For  this  purpose  they  use  any 
of  the  grains  grown  by  them,  but  they  prefer  kafir 
corn  or  millet.  This  is  moistened  and  put  in  a  warm 
place  until  it  sprouts.  It  is  then  ground  or  stamped 
and  the  meal  is  cooked  into  a  thin  porridge  and  put 
into  large  earthen  pots,  where  more  water  is  added, 
also  the  yeast  or  dregs  of  a  previous  brewing.  It 
is  then  allowed  to  stand  in  a  warm  place  and  fer- 
ment, and  before  drinking  it  is  usually  strained 
through  a  loose  bag  of  their  own  weaving.  The  na- 
tive will  tell  you  that  their  god  showed  them  how  to 
make  the  beer,  and  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  he  did. 

It  is  needless  to  say  that  it  intoxicates  and  is  the 
cause  of  frequent  brawls  and  fights  among  them, 
and  it  is  not  unusual  for  the  missionaries  to  be 
called  upon  to  help  settle  some  of  these  disturb- 
ances. It  is  less  difficult  to  convince  the  Africans 
of  the  evil  effects  of  its  use  than  it  is  some  Euro- 
peans. The  latter  will  often  tell  you  that  the  native 
thrives  and  works  better  if  allowed  his  beer.  Mis- 
sionaries are  not  wanting  who  think  it  is  best  not  to 
interfere  with  their  native  Christians  having  their 
beer.  Our  missionaries,  however,  have  no  difficulty 


200  AFRICA 

in  inducing  the  Christians  to  discard  the  use  of  it, 
and  we  believe  the  sentiment  against  it  is  increasing 
among  the  missionaries  in  general.  In  a  native 
Conference  held  at  Matopo  Mission  in  February, 
1914,  the  question  of  native  beer  came  up.  Of  course 
all  were  opposed  to  members  drinking  it,  but  the 
question  was  in  regard  to  the  Christian  girls,  who 
were  minors,  assisting  in  the  making  of  it,  since 
they  are  under  the  jurisdiction  of  their  heathen  par- 
ents. The  older  native  Christians  were  in  favor  of 
more  stringent  measures  than  even  the  missionaries. 

In  order  to  show  what  an  enlightened  Christian 
native  can  and  will  do  if  he  has  the  power  we  need 
only  refer  to  the  work  of  King  Khama.  He  is  the 
King  of  Bechuanaland,  the  country  just  west  of 
Southern  Rhodesia.  His  father  was  a  heathen  king 
and  a  sorcerer,  but  Khama  embraced  Christianity  in 
his  youth,  and  in  the  midst  of  most  bitter  perse- 
cutions from  his  own  father  and  others,  he  stood 
true.  The  people  finally  recognizing  his  ability 
chose  him  king  in  place  of  his  father  in  1872.  Then 
his  difficulties  began  in  another  line.  If  he  was  to 
be  the  chief  of  the  country,  it  must  be  founded  on 
the  principles  of  the  Gospel.  All  imported  liquor 
was  prohibited  from  crossing  the  border,  nor  was 
native  beer  allowed  to  be  made. 

It  was  a  fierce  battle  with  some  of  the  natives 
themselves,  for  they  were  not  all  Christians  and  did 
not  readily  yield.  This  domestic  trouble,  however, 
was  nothing  compared  with  the  battle  he  had  to 
wage  with  unprincipled  white  traders  and  even  with 
government  officials,  for  the  country  was  under  the 
protection  of  England,  and  they  had  some  voice  in 


MATOPO   MISSION 


201 


Matabele  Women  Stamping  Grain. 


202  AFRICA 

the  management  of  affairs.  But  Khama  won  the 
day  in  such  a  struggle  as  would  have  dismayed 
many  a  stouter  heart.  According  to  Mr.  J.  H.  Hep- 
burn, Khama  wrote  to  the  British  Administration 
as  follows :  "  I  dread  the  white  man's  drink  more 
than  the  assegais  of  the  Matabele  which  kill  men's 
bodies  and  is  quickly  over;  but  drink  puts  devils  into 
men  and  destroys  their  souls  and  bodies  forever. 
Its  wounds  never  heal.  I  pray  your  Honor  never 
to  ask  me  to  open  even  a  little  door  to  drink." 
Words  worthy  of  a  native  Christian  hero,  indeed ;  a 
hero  that  could  not  be  bought,  that  could  not  be 
bribed  or  frightened  by  the  liquor  men. 

The  Government  of  Rhodesia  is  rather  favorable 
toward  native  beer,  yet  we  owe  it  much  for  prohibit- 
ing imported  liquor  sold  to  natives  within  its 
territory.  Perhaps  (who  knows?)  Khama's  firm 
stand  in  his  own  territory  may  have  been  an  influ- 
ence in  keeping  Rhodesian  natives  from  securing 
imported  liquor. 

Mention  was  made  before  that  the  native  way  of 
getting  work  done  is  to  make  a  quantity  of  beer  and 
invite  their  neighbors.  They  do  this  in  digging 
and  preparing  the  ground  for  sowing,  in  weeding, 
in  cultivating,  and  in  threshing.  While  a  little  beer 
is  given  during  the  work,  the  greater  part  is  kept 
back  until  the  work  is  completed,  perhaps  as  an 
inducement  for  them  to  persevere  unto  the  end.  If 
then  one,  in  evangelistic  work,  comes  upon  such  a 
company  early  in  the  day,  they  are  not  much  the 
worse  for  drink  and  will  often  listen  attentively. 

Once  Sister  Steigerwald  and  I  came  to  a  place 
where  a  large  company  were  busy  weeding.  They 


MATOPO   MISSION  203 

had  a  large  garden  to  weed  and  did  not  greatly 
desire  to  stop  for  service,  but  we  promised  not  to 
keep  them  long,  so  they  gathered  under  the  shade 
of  a  tree.  On  opening  our  Bible  our  eye  fell  on  the 
"  Parable  of  the  Tares,"  which  seemed  quite  suitable 
for  the  occasion.  They  listened  most  attentively  to 
the  short  talk,  and  as  illustrations  taken  from  their 
gardens  and  work  always  seemed  better  understood 
and  appreciated,  we  made  use  of  such  entirely  in 
the  application.  After  singing  and  prayer  we  told 
them  they  might  return  to  their  work.  We  sat 
still  and  watched  them  awhile,  and  as  they  worked 
and  pulled  out  the  weeds,  we  could  hear  them  talk- 
ing to  one  another  and  saying,  "  Yes,  the  bad  things 
Satan  sows  in  our  hearts  are  just  like  these  weeds, 
and  they  need  to  be  rooted  out  or  they  will  destroy 
us." 

On  another  occasion,  one  Sunday  morning,  there 
were  no  natives  from  one  of  the  large  kraals  present 
at  the  services,  and  we  felt  to  pay  them  a  visit. 
Ganukisa  and  some  of  the  boys  accompanying,  we 
went  to  the  place  in  the  afternoon  to  hold  service. 
We  always  tried  to  impress  upon  the  people  that 
they  should  not  work  on  Sunday,  and  many  were 
heeding,  so  on  this  occasion  we  were  surprised  to 
find  about  seventy-five  of  them  having  a  digging. 
As  we  drew  near,  they  had  just  finished  the  work 
and  were  about  to  surround  the  huge  beer  pots  for 
a  "  good  time."  We  knew  by  the  time  they  had 
consumed  all  that  beer  they  would  scarcely  be  in  a 
condition  to  receive  the  Gospel.  What  should  we 
do?  We  never  like  to  ask  the  natives  to  do  any- 
thing unless  there  is  some  probability  of  its  being 


204  AFRICA 

carried  out,  for  one  is  likely  to  lose  influence  over 
them.  Could  they  be  persuaded  to  leave  their  beer 
pots  and  let  us  talk  to  them  first?  We  could  not 
make  them  do  it,  but  God  could,  so  looking  to  Him 
we  said, 

"  Leave  the  beer  and  come  out  under  the  shade  of 
the  trees  while  we  talk  to  you." 

"  Oh,  no,"  they  replied,  "  let  us  drink  the  beer 
first  and  then  we  will  come." 

We  knew  that  if  they  did  their  drinking  first 
some  of  them  would  not  stay  for  the  service,  so 
again,  with  somewhat  more  authority,  I  repeated 
the  request,  and  at  the  same  time,  together  with  the 
Christian  natives  who  accompanied,  moved  toward 
the  shade.  It  was  almost  more  than  we  expected, 
but  the  Lord  moved  upon  their  hearts  to  leave  the 
beer  untouched,  and  come  to  listen.  The  Lord  espe- 
cially anointed  some  of  our  native  Christians  for 
the  service  and  they  gave  forth  the  Word  with 
power.  One  of  them  referred  very  strongly  to  their 
desecration  of  the  Sabbath.  At  first  they  sought  to 
justify  themselves,  but  as  the  truth  was  pressed 
home  to  them  they  said  they  would  never  do  it 
again.  At  the  close  a  number  of  the  older  men  for 
the  first  time  in  their  lives  prayed  and  pleaded  for 
pardon.  The  old  women  who  had  invited  them  to 
work  seemed  especially  concerned  and  promised 
not  to  repeat  it  on  Sunday. 

When  they  thresh  they  also  invite  a  lot  of  their 
neighbors.  They  place  the  grain  on  a  large  flat 
rock  and  then  strike  it  with  a  straight  stick.  Once 
I  was  present  when  a  large  number  of  the  Ama- 
hole,  or  subject  tribes,  were  threshing.  They  were 


MATOPO   MISSION  205 

decked  out  with  all  their  ornaments,  and  being  di- 
vided into  two  sides  were  placed  opposite  to  one 
another,  like  two  opposing  forces  in  battle  array. 
Each  being  armed  with  his  threshing  stick,  they 
performed  a  mimic  battle  with  the  grain  lying  on 
the  rock  between  the  two  lines  of  battle,  each  one 
alternately  driving  the  other  before  it  and  at  the 
same  time  beating  the  grain  with  their  sticks.  They 
also  sang  their  war  song,  of  how  the  Matabele  over- 
came them  and  impaled  them  alive,  and  of  the  dire 
vengeance  they  would  inflict  in  return.  The  inter- 
lude would  be  occupied  by  a  sort  of  ballet  dancer 
among  them.  The  whole  was  exceedingly  heathen- 
ish, but  not  uninteresting ;  and  as  for  the  grain,  a 
large  amount  of  it  was  threshed. 

"\Yhile  much  of  the  work  falls  to  the  women,  some 
of  the  native  men  are  quite  diligent  in  digging  in 
their  gardens ;  but  they  generally  wish  to  sell  their 
grain  and  secure  money  to  pay  taxes  for  themselves 
and  their  wives.  The  women,  in  addition  to  grow- 
ing most  of  the  food  that  is  eaten,  often  help  to 
furnish  the  tax  money.  Of  course  to  the  raw  native 
dress  is  a  negligible  quantity. 

The  people  are  always  generous,  and  the  food  in 
the  kraals  is  shared  with  the  strangers.  No  one 
needs  to  go  through  the  country  hungry  unless  there 
is  famine,  and  even  then  they  will  often  divide  the 
last  morsel.  When  the  stranger  comes  among  them, 
they  always  bid  him  welcome,  and  it  is  etiquette  to 
let  him  remain  for  at  least  one  day  without  asking 
him  any  questions  as  to  his  business  among  them. 

Even  in  respect  to  continually  begging,  which  is 
so  obnoxious  to  Europeans,  the  native  is  not  so  rude 


206  AFRICA 

as  it  would  appear.  They  are  not  slow  to  ask  one 
another,  and  they  have  often  surprised  me  by  say- 
ing that  they  felt  flattered  to  be  asked  for  articles, 
as  it  showed  that  they  had  something  which  the 
other  did  not  have  and  they  had  an  opportunity  to 
help.  A  native  likes  to  have  plenty,  but  he  does 
not  want  to  have  his  gardens  surpass  too  much  those 
of  his  neighbors,  in  productiveness ;  neither  does  he 
want  his  herds  to  surpass  others  too  much,  for  fear 
he  may  be  an  object  of  envy  to  those  around  him 
and  a  victim  of  malice,  or  be  accused  of  witchcraft. 

There  always  seems  to  be  a  great  attachment 
between  the  mother  and  her  children  all  through 
life.  This  does  not  hinder  the  big,  stout  boy,  how- 
ever, from  lying  around  and  living  on  the  bounty  of 
his  hard-working  mother,  and  on  the  other  hand 
the  heathen  boy  will  often  exert  himself  to  aid  his 
mother  and  pay  her  hut  tax,  and  she  often  lives 
with  her  son  when  she  becomes  old. 

The  native  women  generally  shave  their  heads 
with  a  piece  of  sharp  glass.  It  is  a  laborious  and 
painful  process  and  needs  to  be  done  by  an  expert, 
but  in  the  end  it  is  well  done.  The  married  woman 
always  leaves  a  small  tuft  of  hair  on  the  crown  of 
her  head.  This  is  her  sign  of  wifehood.  The  raw 
native  has  no  means  of  keeping  record  of  his  age, 
so  we  must  always  guess  at  it. 

The  government  is  patriarchal  and  the  younger 
are  generally  respectful  to  the  elders,  and  all  are 
more  or  less  polite  to  one  another.  Their  very  name 
implies  this.  The  surname  is  handed  down  from 
father  to  child,  even  the  wife  retaining  that  of  her 
father  unless  she  is  married  by  Christian  marriage. 


MATOPO    MISSION 


207 


The  surname  is  also  the  isibongo,  or  thank  word. 
By  that  I  mean  that  it  is  what  they  say  if  they  wish 
to  thank  for  any  favor.  Among  themselves  they  do 
not  say  "  I  thank  you  "  for  any  favor  received.  Sup- 
pose Muza  Sibanda  would  give  another  one  some- 
thing. The  recipient  on  receiving  it  would  say 
"  Sibanda  "  instead  of  "  I  thank  you."  Again,  in 
addressing  another,  if  one  wishes  to  be  polite  or 


n 


Matabele    Women    Digging. 

respectful  he  will  use  the  last,  not  the  first  name,  or 
he  may  say  "  Father,"  "  Mother,"  or  the  like.  I 
at  first  thought  them  somewhat  rude  in  not  thank- 
ing properly,  but  soon  found  that  it  was  often  the 
result  of  not  knowing  what  to  say.  One  day  I  gave 
a  piece  of  bread  to  a  little  fellow  about  five  years 
of  age.  He  hesitated,  then  looking  up  into  my  face, 
said,  "Isibongo  sako  sipif"  ("What  is  your  thank 


208  AFRICA 

name?")  If  a  native  is  given  anything,  all  the 
others  present  will  join  in  thanking,  for  a  favor  to 
one  is  a  favor  to  all.  The  mother  will  often  use  the 
thank  name,  or  surname,  as  a  term  of  endearment 
to  her  child.  After  she  has  a  child  she  is  no  longer 
known  by  her  name,  but  if  the  child  is  Luju  she  is 
known  as  the  "  mother  of  Luju." 

If  one  falls  or  meets  with  an  accident,  however 
slight,  all  the  rest  will  say  " Pepa"  ("Beg  par- 
don ").  If  one  enters  the  kraal  of  another,  he  enters 
the  hut  and  sits  down  near  the  door  without  say- 
ing anything.  Presently  he  says  "Eh!  kuhle" 
("  Peace"),  about  equivalent  to  saying,  "  Peace  be 
to  this  house."  It  is  not  a  salutation,  but  a  polite 
way  of  announcing  his  presence.  The  occupant  of 
the  hut  then  responds  by  saying,  "Eh!  sa  ku  bona" 
("  We  see  you  ").  In  reality,  however,  it  is  equiva- 
lent to  saying  "How  do  you  do?"  to  which  the 
other  responds. 

It  is  a  real  treat  to  hear  two  old  natives  convers- 
ing together,  especially  if  they  are  unconscious  of 
one's  presence.  Their  gossip  may  not  be  very  ele- 
vating, but  it  is  always  carried  on  in  a  polite  and 
interesting  manner.  The  Tebele  language  is  most 
beautiful  and  expressive,  as  its  liquid  syllables  roll 
off  the  native  tongue,  and  it  is  always  most  cor- 
rectly spoken — no  errors  in  grammar  among  them. 

This  would  not  be  complete  without  mention  be- 
ing made  of  death  and  burial.  In  burial  the  various 
tribes  differ  somewhat  among  themselves.  Among 
the  Matabele,  when  one  dies  the  friends  come  and 
prepare  the  body  for  burial  by  placing  it  in  a  sitting 
posture  with  the  knees  brought  up  near  the  face. 


MATOPO   MISSION  209 

They  clothe  it  in  the  garments  which  it  owned,  and 
wrap  the  blanket  about  it,  tying  the  body  firmly  in 
this  position  with  the  face  exposed.  It  is  then  left 
sitting  in  the  hut,  together  with  some  of  the  women 
mourners,  while  the  men  go  and  select  a  place  for 
burial,  generally  at  a  little  distance  from  the  kraal, 
unless  the  deceased  should  be  headman.  They  make 
the  grave  more  or  less  circular  in  form,  and  near  the 
bottom  a  slight  excavation  is  made  in  the  side  for 
the  reception  of  the  body. 

The  body  is  then  placed  on  a  blanket  or  large 
hide  and  carried  out  to  the  grave,  the  friends  follow- 
ing and  mourning.  A  gourd  filled  with  fresh  water 
is  brought,  and  with  this  a  near  friend  or  relative 
washes  the  face  of  the  dead,  at  the  same  time  giving 
it  a  message  to  kindly  remember  them  to  the  king 
and  to  speak  a  good  word  for  them.  The  two  men 
standing  in  the  grave  receive  the  body  and  place  it 
in  the  excavation  with  the  face  toward  the  east. 
They  fasten  it  in  position  with  stones  and  then  fill 
in  the  grave  with  earth.  On  top  of  the  grave  are 
placed  stones  and  the  property  of  the  deceased,  to- 
gether with  branches  of  trees,  perhaps  to  protect  it 
from  the  wild  beasts,  for  the  grave  is  somewhat 
shallow. 

As  children  do  not  have  any  garments  which  they 
can  call  their  own,  they  are  often  buried  without 
anything  being  wrapped  about  the  body.  Once,  when 
a  little  son  of  Mapita  died,  Sister  Doner  and  I  went 
over  to  the  burial.  The  little  body  was  lowered  into 
the  grave  quite  bare  and  they  were  about  to  put  in 
the  earth.  Sister  Doner  could  not  stand  that,  so 
she  hastily  removed  a  large  apron  which  she  had 


210  AFRICA 

on  and  told  them  to  wrap  that  around  the  little  body 
before  throwing  in  the  earth.  They  did  so,  but  no 
doubt  would  have  preferred  keeping  it  for  them- 
selves before  it  had  been  defiled  by  coming  into  con- 
tact with  the  dead  body.  When  Kelenki,  one  of 
our  Christian  boys,  died  in  his  home,  they  wanted 
to  know  what  to  do  with  his  books,  and  one  of  the 
other  Christian  boys  said  he  thought  they  had 
better  leave  them  for  the  living. 

After  burial  they  all  go  to  the  river  and  wash, 
for  death  means  defilement.  The  women  are  the 
chief  mourners,  and  they  assemble  early  in  the 
morning,  fill  the  air  with  their  wailing  and  then 
return  home  until  the  following  morning.  This  is 
often  done  for  four  consecutive  mornings.  In  the 
interim  the  relatives  sit  about  the  kraal,  quiet  and 
with  little  talking,  except  to  answer  the  condolences 
of  their  friends,  who  come  from  time  to  time  to 
sympathize  with  them.  There  is  no  feast,  as  among 
some  natives.  In  fact,  for  a  time  little  food  is 
cooked  or  eaten  except  that  brought  by  neighbors. 

Some  of  the  other  tribes  lay  the  body  down  in 
burial,  and  often  place  it  in  the  crevices  of  the  rocks 
If  the  deceased  is  headman  of  the  kraal,  he  is  gen- 
erally buried  in  the  enclosure  and  often  inside  his 
own  hut,  and  the  people  usually  remain  there  for 
a  year  and  then,  after  a  period  of  worship,  the  kraal 
is  abandoned.  The  wives  go  to  be  the  wives  of  the 
brother  of  the  deceased,  unless  they  be  old,  when 
they  usually  live  with  a  son  or  daughter. 

About  fifteen  miles  from  the  mission,  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Bulawayo,  is  the  grave  of  the  first  king, 
Umzilikazi.  It  is  in  a  large  kopje,  between  some 


MATOPO    MISSION  211 

immense  boulders.  On  the  top  of  the  grave,  or  in 
the  immediate  vicinity — since  one  cannot  point  out 
the  exact  spot  of  the  body — are  many  wagon  loads 
of  rock  thrown  in  to  fill  up  the  cavity  between  the 
boulders.  There  are  also  wheels  and  the  remains  of 
broken  wagons  and  other  property  once  owned  by 
the  king,  and  probably  bought  from  the  white  men 
in  his  emigration  from  Zululand  to  this  country.  I 
cannot  give  the  exact  date  of  this  king's  death,  but 
it  was  at  least  more  than  fifty  years  ago.  As  he 
was  considered  the  god  of  the  Matabele,  this  grave 
was  often  no  doubt  a  place  of  worship  by  the  tribe, 
but  we  have  no  knowledge  that  it  has  been  wor- 
shiped in  late  years.  Perhaps  it  somewhat  fell  into 
disuse  after  Umlimo,  the  god  of  the  Makalanga. 
was  considered  so  powerful. 


CHAPTER   FIFTEEN 
Later  Visits 

The  missionary  stands  to  the  native  for  religion  and 
education,  for  all  the  help  he  may  get  to  make  his  life 
cleaner,  more  moral,  and  more  in  keeping  with  ideals  of 
the  white  man  at  his  best. — M.  S.  Evans. 

IN  the  year  1910  it  was  my  privilege,  on  returning 
from  a  furlough  to  Natal,  to  again  visit  Matopo, 
after  an  absence  of  nearly  four  years.  Bishop 
and  Mrs.  Steigerwald  were  at  that  time  in  America 
on  furlough,  and  Brother  Doner  and  his  wife,  who 
was  formerly  Sister  Sallie  Kreider,  and  Sister  Mary 
Heise  were  in  charge  of  Matopo  Mission.  "When  I 
reached  Bulawayo  I  found  Brother  Doner  waiting 
to  convey  me  to  the  mission.  It  was  indeed  a  pleas- 
ure again  to  visit  the  place  and  to  look  into  the  faces 
of  those  natives  who  had  grown  very  dear  by  rea- 
son of  my  long  stay  among  them.  Here  it  was 
my  privilege  to  come  into  contact,  for  the  first  time, 
with  raw  heathendom,  and  to  have  the  joy  of  see- 
ing light  enter  darkened  minds  and  souls  born  into 
the  Kingdom.  So  it  occupies  a  tender  spot  which 
later  experiences  cannot  touch. 

There  had  been  improvements  made  since  I  had 
left.  Prominent  among  these  were  two  substantial 
brick  buildings,  a  house  for  the  boys  and  one  for  the 
girls,  and  there  were  thirty-three  boys  occupying 
the  one  and  three  girls  the  other.  There  is  a  nice 
212 


MATOPO   MISSION  213 

little  band  of  believers  at  this  place,  some  .of  whom 
I  wish  especially  to  mention.  First  is  poor  old  blind 
Xgiga.  Shortly  after  Elder  Engle's  death  we  found 
him  at  a  kraal,  destitute  and  afflicted,  with  no  one 
seemingly  to  care  for  him  and  give  him  food.  We 
carried  or  sent  food  to  him  for  a  time,  and  gave  him 
a  blanket,  and  he  gradually  gained  strength.  Think- 
ing that  exercise  would  do  him  good,  Brother  Leh- 
man encouraged  him  to  come  to  the  mission  for  his 
food,  as  he  was  only  a  short  distance  away.  He  had 
lain  for  so  long  without  exercising  his  body  that  at 
first  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  he  reached  the 
mission,  but  being  supplied  with  food,  he  grew 
stronger  and  was  enabled  to  walk  the  distance  easily 
and  to  help  himself  a  little.  Some  time  after  Elder 
Steigerwald  came  he  treated  him  for  his  disease  and 
built  a  hut  and  brought  him  to  the  mission  to  stay, 
as  the  loathsome  disease  with  which  he  was  afflict- 
ed had  left  him  about  blind.  He,  however,  was 
converted  and  has  been  received  into  the  Church. 
It  is  a  pleasure  to  hear  him  now  testify  to  Christ's 
saving  power,  and  to  praise  the  Lord  for  bringing 
the  missionaries.  Truly,  the  Lord  is  no  Respecter  of 
persons. 

Again,  let  us  go  to  Buka's  house.  My  readers 
will  remember  Buka,  whom  Sister  Heise  and  I 
found  upon  the  rocks  eleven  years  before  when  we 
went  in  search  of  little  Lomazwana.  Yes,  it  is 
really  he  whose  life  and  home  looked  so  black  to  us 
that  day.  He  moved  to  within  about  three  miles 
of  the  mission,  and  his  son  Kolisa  came  to  stay  at 
the  mission  and  go  to  school.  The  father  became 
sick  and  Brother  and  Sister  Doner  visited  him  and 


214  AFRICA 

ministered  unto  him.  Then  they  built  him  a  hut 
and  made  him  more  comfortable.  He  finally  became 
a  paralytic  and  unable  to  help  himself,  so  Brother 
Steigerwald  assisted  them  to  get  a  home  on  the 
mission  premises,  and  gave  them  gardens,  so  that 
they  are  now  quite  comfortable.  The  oldest  daugh- 
ter also  accepted  Christ,  then  the  mother  followed, 
and  these  two  with  the  son  are  now  members  of  the 
Church. 

My  first  Sunday  at  Matopo,  in  company  with 
Brother  and  Sister  Doner,  I  visited  this  home.  A 
smile  of  recognition  at  once  lighted  up  the  face  of 
the  invalid  father;  and  though  he  could  not  speak, 
the  family  interpreted  the  sounds  he  made.  After 
he  had  expressed  his  welcome  he  said  that  though 
his  body  and  speech  were  paralyzed,  yet  his  heart 
was  all  right.  During  another  visit  he  tried  to  ex- 
plain how  Jesus  was  dwelling  within,  and  how  glad 
he  was  that  when  he  got  "  over  there  "  he  would  not 
be  sick.  One  could  not  help  feeling  that  he  had 
learned  to  know  the  Lord.  Truly,  affliction  had 
proved  a  blessing  to  him. 

There  was  a  good  school  at  Matopo,  with  Sister 
Heise  and  Matshuba  as  teachers.  Brother  Doners 
were  very  busy  overseeing  this  work,  as  well  as 
their  own  station  at  Mapani  Mission,  and  they  kind- 
ly took  me  to  that  place  to  see  something  of  the 
work  there.  Nyamazana  had  had  charge  of  the 
mission  at  Mapani  for  about  six  months  and  was 
doing  good  work,  especially  spiritually.  He  is  Spir- 
it-filled and  alive  to  the  responsibility  resting  upon 
him.  He  had  charge  of  the  Inquirers'  Class  and 
Sunday  services,  and  the  natives  say  that  he 


MATOPO    MISSION 


215 


Building  the   Boys'    House   at   Matopo,    M.   S. 


Boys'   Brick  House  at  Matopo  Mission. 


216  AFRICA 

preaches  powerful  sermons.  He  has  a  nice  Chris- 
tian wife,  who  is  a  help  to  him.  There  is  a  company 
of  earnest  believers  at  this  place.  Brother  Doner 
erected  a  large  brick  church  and  a  brick  dwelling- 
house,  which  added  greatly  to  the  appearance  and 
comfort  of  the  work,  and  he  deserves  much  credit 
for  the  work  accomplished  alone  and  single-handed 
in  building. 

The  first  Friday  in  each  month  has  been  set  apart 
by  the  missionaries  in  Africa  as  a  day  of  prayer 
and  fasting.  On  the  Prayer  Day  in  May  of  that 
year  we  were  permitted  to  meet  with  the  believers 
at  Mapani  Mission.  Over  seventy  were  assembled. 
They  included  the  members  of  the  Church  here  and 
those  of  the  Inquirers'  Class.  We  had  a  most  pre- 
cious waiting  on  the  Lord  and  heard  many  soul- 
stirring  prayers  and  testimonies.  Many  seemed  to 
be  reaching  out  for  a  greater  fulness  of  the  Spirit, 
while  others  were  overflowing  with  the  joy  of  the 
Lord.  The  work  was  most  encouraging  and  the 
members  steadfast,  and  the  Lord  had  been  pouring 
out  His  Spirit  upon  some  of  them  in  a  marvelous 
manner,  and  our  hearts  were  made  to  rejoice  with 
them. 

We  also  spent  a  few  days  visiting  some  of  the 
people  and  the  schools  taught  by  Brethren  Nkwidi- 
ni,  Mlobeka,  and  Nyamazana.  All  three  of  these 
teachers  were  our  former  pupils  and  had  been  con- 
verted at  Matopo. 

Brother  and  Sister  Doner  then  took  me  to  Mtya- 
bezi  Mission,  after  which  they  returned  to  Matopo. 
Mtyabezi  is  the  mission  station  of  Brother  and  Sis- 
ter Frey,  and  a  little  over  a  year  after  it  was  opened 


MATOPO    MISSION 


217 


Miss  Elizabeth  Engle  also  came  to  help  in  it.  This 
was  my  first  visit  at  the  station,  and  I  was  made  to 
rejoice  at  what  the  Lord  was  doing  at  this  place. 
The  buildings  are  pleasantly  located  at  the  foot  of 
an  immense  kopje,  which  towers  high  above  them  in 
the  background.  A  neat-looking  brick  church  had 
been  erected  by  Brother  Frey,  and  well-built  huts 
in  which  they  were  living  at  the  time. 


A  Native  Christian's  Home.     Matshuba's. 


Sister  Frey  had  been  doing  the  teaching,  but  at 
the  time  of  my  visit,  Bunu,  one  of  their  pupils  and 
converts,  was  teaching  and  doing  excellent  work. 
On  Thursday  Sisters  Frey  and  Engle  and  myself 
went  in  the  wagon  to  visit  some  members  about 
eight  miles  distant,  where  we  met  with  a  warm 
reception  among  those  who  were  Christians.  At  one 
place  there  was  a  Christian  woman  about  sixty 
years  of  age,  who  seemed  so  happy  in  the  Lord  and 


218  AFRICA 

so  eager  to  make  us  welcome  and  comfortable  dur- 
ing, our  stay.  We  were  surprised  to  find  in  one  of 
the  kraals  a  native  dressmaker  who  owned  a  sewing 
machine  and  had  all  the  sewing  she  could  do  for  her 
dark-skinned  neighbors.  The  sisters  have  been 
teaching  their  girls  and  women  to  sew. 

In  the  evening  about  thirty  natives,  most  of  whom 
were  believers,  gathered  around  our  campfire  to 
hold  service.  We  spoke  for  a  time,  and  then  a 
number  gave  a  clear  testimony  to  the  saving  power 
of  Christ.  We  had  to  contrast  this  little  company 
with  some  other  gatherings  which  we  have  seen  and 
heard  in  the  hours  of  night  in  darkest  Africa,  where 
beer,  the  dance,  licentiousness,  and  all  forms  of 
devil  worship  made  night  hideous.  One  can  best 
understand  what  the  Gospel  message  is  doing  for 
the  people,  if  he  first  sees  something  of  paganism. 

On  Sunday  at  the  mission  there  was  a  very  im- 
pressive time,  and  when  the  altar  call  was  given  a 
number  came  forward.  There  were  truly  penitent 
hearts,  among  whom  were  a  number  of  young  men 
seeking  to  get  right  with  God ;  also  some  girls  and 
married  people.  Here  was  a  woman  whose  husband 
had  two  wives,  and  she  was  much  persecuted  at 
home,  but  she  wanted  to  follow  the  Lord,  and  pite- 
ously,  in  the  midst  of  her  sobs,  she  inquired  what 
she  should  do.  Then  a  Magdalene  confessed  that 
she  had  fallen  into  grievous  sin,  and  like  the  one  of 
old  came  with  bitter  tears  to  the  feet  of  Jesus.  An- 
other's way  was  made  hard  on  account  of  the 
unfaithfulness  of  her  husband,  and  so  on.  But  the 
one  whose  experience  seemed  the  most  touching 
was  a  woman  of  nearly  sixty  years.  Her  married 


MATOPO   MISSION  219 

daughter,  who  is  a  Christian,  had  been  much  in 
prayer  for  her  mother,  and  so  the  woman  came  and 
with  utter  abandonment,  seemingly,  threw  herself 
at  the  feet  of  Jesus,  weeping  and  confessing  her 
sins  and  saying,  "  I  am  a  dog.  Pick  me  up,  Lord." 
At  the  opening  of  1913  we  were  permitted  to  make 
another  visit  to  the  missions  in  this  vicinity.  This 
vacation  was  to  be  only  a  month,  and  as  I  had  in 
the  meantime  been  cut  off  from  association  with 
white  people,  except  those  at  the  mission,  I  conclud- 
ed to  spend  the  first  few  days  in  Bulawayo.  The 
place  had  grown  since  we  reached  it,  nearly  fifteen 
years  before,  and  although  the  growth  had  not  been 
so  rapid  it  was  of  an  enduring,  steady  kind.  The 
place  is  laid  out  on  broad  lines,  with  broad  streets 
and  roomy  dwellings — no  need  for  skyscrapers  here. 
There  are  many  fine,  substantial-looking  business 
blocks,  and  as  one  goes  into  the  suburbs  he  sees 
many  elegant,  well-built  dwelling-houses.  There 
are  fine  churches,  a  good  hospital,  museum,  and  li- 
brary, and  two  large  government  school  buildings, 
each  with  a  good  dormitory  attached.  One  of  these 
is  for  boys  and  the  other,  which  is  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  town,  is  for  girls.  Here,  as  in  all  parts 
of  South  Africa,  there  is  some  industrial  work  in 
connection  with  the  schools.  Bulawayo  has  also 
many  excellent  stores  and  shops,  so  that  one  mav 
purchase  almost  anything  required,  not  only  in  the 
line  of  provisions,  household  goods,  and  clothiner. 
but  all  lines  of  farming  implements  and  many  kinds 
of  machinery.  The  heavy  wagons,  drawn  by  great 
rows  of  oxen,  donkeys,  and  mules,  are  still  to  he 
seen,  but  there  are  also  many  dainty  one-horse  traps, 


220  AFRICA 

as  well  as  two-horse  conveyances,  and  a  large  num- 
ber of  automobiles  and  motorcycles. 

There  is  attached  to  the  town  a  large  native  lo- 
cation, for  the  heavy  part  of  the  work  as  well  as 
the  housework  is  about  all  done  by  native  boys. 
They  are  all  called  "  boys."  In  the  eyes  of  their 
white  employers  the  native  seldom  becomes  a  man. 
He  may  be  an  old  boy  or  a  young  boy,  a  little  boy 
or  a  big  boy,  but  he  is  always  a  boy.  On  the  other 
hand,  in  the  eyes  of  many  Europeans  it  is  almost 
an  insult  to  speak  of  their  children  as  boys.  In  the 
early  days  one  of  the  missionaries,  in  speaking  to 
an  old  European  lady,  said  something  about  her 
boy.  She  straightened  herself  proudly  and  with 
emphasis  said,  "  My  son."  At  the  mission  one  day 
a  native  woman  was  begging  very  hard  for  a  piece 
of  cloth,  and  to  strengthen  her  request  she  said, 
"  I  am  your  boy,"  evidently  meaning  that  she  be- 
longed to  me. 

Although  Bulawayo  is  the  largest  town  in  South- 
ern Rhodesia,  there  are  others,  such  as  Salisbury, 
Gwelo,  Victoria,  and  Gwanda,  which  deserve  men- 
tion. Farmers  are  scattered  throughout  the  coun- 
try, especially  along  the  high,  rolling  plain  between 
Bulawayo  and  Salisbury.  There  are  many  valuable 
gold  mines  and  many  old  gold  workings  to  be  found 
in  various  places.  The  most  noted  is  Great  Zim- 
babwe, near  Victoria.  It  is  said :  "  The  ruins  cover 
a  large  area,  and  on  an  eminence  are  the  remains  of 
a  fortress,  the  walls  of  which  are  thirty  feet  high 
and  ten  feet  thick,  and  built  of  cut  stones  put  to- 
gether without  mortar,  so  closely-fitting  that  a 
knife  can  hardly  be  inserted  between  them.  Smelt- 


MATOPO   MISSION 


221 


Mtshabezi  Church  and  School. 


Mtshabezi    Mission  '  in    1910. 


222  AFRICA 

ing  crucibles,  with  gold  in  them,  ingot  moulds,  and 
spears  have  been  found."  Some  think  that  the 
Sabeans  from  Arabia  worked  these  about  3,000 
years  ago.  This  is  thought  by  some  to  be  the  "  gold 
of  Ophir."  Ruins  on  a  smaller  scale  are  to  be  found 
in  various  places.  Not  far  from  Mapani  Mission  we 
saw  a  circular  wall  made  of  wedge-shaped  stones, 
nicely  fitted  together.  The  country  is  also  rich  in 
iron  ore,  and  at  Wankie  is  the  great  coal-mining 
district.  All  these  places  furnish  abundant  work 
for  all  the  natives  of  Rhodesia,  and  are  also  centers 
for  mission  work. 

January  1,  I  was  again  taken  to  Motopo  Mission, 
not  with  the  slow,  patient  donkeys  of  fifteen  years 
ago,  but  with  the  swifter  mules.  Many  changes 
have  taken  place  among  the  natives  surrounding  the 
mission  since  1898.  On  our  first  entering  this  valley 
the  natives  had  just  fled  and  hid  themselves  away  in 
these  rocks  at  the  close  of  the  Rebellion.  They 
were  then  very  poor,  without  flocks  and  herds,  and 
had  few  gardens,  and  very  little  of  the  land  had 
ever  been  brought  under  cultivation.  Since  then 
the  natives  have  gradually  come  out  of  their  hiding- 
places  and  settled  down  to  their  work.  Under  the 
influence  of  peace  and  better  teaching  their  sur- 
roundings have  greatly  changed.  There  are  more 
natives  near  the  mission  than  at  first,  and  they 
have  sheep,  goats,  and  cattle,  and  some  of  them 
have  plows  and  oxen  to  draw  them,  so  that  they  can 
plow  their  large  gardens.  Every  available  place 
near  the  mission  has  been  brought  under  cultiva- 
tion, but  not  in  the  old,  laborious  way  with  human 
oxen,  so  that  the  wives  are  not  the  slaves  they  once 


MATOPO   MISSION  223 

were.  Of  course,  in  the  absence  of  the  men  at  work 
the  women  often  hold  the  plow,  but  they  have  more 
time  to  keep  house.  One  of  the  officials  affirms 
that  the  best  way  of  doing  away  with  polygamy  is 
by  introducing  civilized  ways  of  farming. 

The  people  began  by  bringing  their  oxen  to 
Brother  Steigerwald  to  be  trained,  and  then  he 
helped  them  to  procure  plows,  and  they  still  come 
to  him  for  help  in  trouble.  The  3,000-acre  farm  is 
far  too  small  for  all  who  desire  to  live  near  the 
mission.  If  he  had  twice  the  amount  of  land  it 
would  soon  become  filled  with  natives,  who  would 
thus  be  near  the  mission  and  under  the  influence  of 
the  Gospel. 

Let  us  visit  some  of  the  houses  and  see  what 
changes  have  taken  place.  Here  first  is  the  home 
of  Matshuba.  As  he  was  first  in  the  fold,  he  is 
worthy  of  first  notice.  He  lives  in  a  small,  neatly- 
built  brick  house,  with  a  well-swept  yard  inclosed 
by  a  fence.  Inside  the  house  are  homemade  bed- 
steads, chairs  and  tables,  and  here  is  Matshuba  the 
same  as  of  yore.  He  is  older  and  has  fought  many 
battles  since  that  first  day  when,  as  a  little  boy,  he 
came  and  watched  the  newcomers.  He  has  found 
the  conflict  severe  and  almost  overpowering  at 
times.  It  has  left  some  scars,  but,  praise  God !  he 
has  come  off  victorious  atlast,  and  in  a  more  humble 
spirit  he  is  following  the  meek  and  lowly  Savior. 
He  is  Elder  Steigerwald's  right-hand  man  and  is 
capable  of  turning  his  hand  to  almost  any  kind  of 
work.  He  can  take  the  blacksmith  tools  and  mend 
the  large  three-disc  plow ;  he  can  make  use  of  the 
small  engine  and  grind  the  meal  for  the  native  food, 


224 


AFRICA 


or  do  any  other  kind  of  work  about  the  place.  Best 
of  all,  he  can  go  out  and  tell  the  people  about  Je- 
sus. He  had  hoped  that  the  elder's  many-sided 
ability  might  be  his,  and  he  seems  to  have  had  his 
wish.  He  could  secure  much  larger  pay  as  an 
engineer  in  the  mines,  but  he  feels  that  his  place  is 
in  the  Lord's  work.  May  he  have  our  prayers  that 
he  may  always  find  God's  grace  sufficient. 


Mtshabezi — Baptismal    Scene. 

Here  too  is  his  wife,  Makivva.  She  was  also  edu- 
cated at  Matopo  Mission,  where  she  learned  not 
only  in  school,  but  also  in  the  kitchen  and  sewing- 
room,  that  she  might  know  how  to  take  care  of  her 
home  and  family.  A  faithful  helpmate  she  has 
been  to  her  husband  and  a  blessing  in  the  Church. 
Here  are  their  little  boy  and  girl,  whom  they  are 


MATOPO   MISSION  225 

bringing  up  in  the  fear  of  the  Lord.  This  old  wom- 
an, also  neatly  dressed,  is  Matshuba's  mother,  long 
a  slave  to  her  old  religion,  her  superstitious  ideas, 
her  beer  and  her  tobacco.  Now  she  has  accepted 
Christ  as  her  Savior  and  He  has  cleansed  her  and 
she  is  in  the  Church.  And  this  bright-looking  girl 
is  her  daughter,  Sixpence.  She  was  only  about  four 
or  five  years  old  when  we  came  to  Matopo.  Now 
she  is  a  tall,  fine-looking  Christian  woman  and  well 
taught.  She  has  on  a  neat-looking  black  dress 
which,  Sister  Steigerwald  tells  me,  she  cut  and 
sewed  without  any  help  from  the  missionaries.  Yes, 
this  is  a  Christian  home,  from  which  we  hope  and 
pray  that  the  evils  of  heathendom  have  flown  for- 
ever. 

There  are  others.  First  is  Anyana,  long  a  faith- 
ful helper  of  the  mission,  and  his  wife,  Citiwa,  also 
one  of  our  girls.  Then  comes  Siyaya,  who  had  some 
falls,  but  he  has  at  last  got  his  feet  on  the  Rock  and 
is  helping  to  tell  others  of  Christ.  Mahlenhle  is  also 
here.  He  is  the  same  faithful  boy  as  of  old,  one  of 
those  who  never  give  their  missionary  any  uneasi- 
ness. He  is  always  ready  and  willing  to  do  what 
he  can,  which  is  not  a  little.  He  teaches,  he  preaches, 
and  interprets  for  others,  or  he  can  go  out  and 
handle  the  oxen  and  see  to  the  farming.  There  are 
also  many  new  ones  in  church  and  school,  several 
of  whom  are  assisting  in  teaching.  There  are  forty- 
two  boys  staying  at  the  mission  for  school,  and  a 
number  coming  to  day-school.  Sister  Heise  has 
plenty  to  do,  for  she  teaches  both  early  morning 
and  midday,  and  is  doing  excellent  work.  There 
are  about  150  regular  attendants  at  the  Sunday  serv- 


226  AFRICA 

ices.  The  majority  of  them  are  young  men  and 
women  and  children.  Almost  all  are  respectably 
clothed  and  are  seeking  to  know  the  Lord.  The 
girls  who  desire  to  stay  at  the  missionaries'  and  be 
trained  are  now  sent  to  the  Girls'  School  at  Mtya- 
bezi  Mission.  There  is  a  large  sewing  class  at  this 
place  for  those  who  wish  to  learn.  Two  new  mis- 
sionaries, Brother  Levi  Steckly  and  Sister  Cora  Al- 
vis,  are  also  assisting  in  the  work  at  Matopo. 

I  went  out  among  the  people,  eager  to  secure  a 
snapshot  of  a  kraal,  as  they  formerly  were,  but  I 
failed.  They  are  all  better  built  and  more  cleanly 
than  formerly.  In  every  village  there  are  some 
who  wear  European  clothing,  for  even  if  they  have 
not  accepted  Christ  as  their  Savior,  some  have  put 
on  the  garments  of  civilization.  There  are,  of 
course,  many  among  the  older  ones  who  have  not 
changed  much,  and  who  have  always  hardened  their 
hearts  and  stiffened  their  necks  against  the  truth. 
This  has  been  the  condition  of  the  world  ever  since 
the  Fall,  and  it  will  no  doubt  continue  until  all  sin 
and  wickedness  shall  be  put  under  foot  and  He 
shall  reign  in  righteousness.  If. the  command  had 
been  "  Go  into  all  the  world  and  make  disciples  of 
every  creature,"  missionaries  would  have  given  up 
long  ago  in  despair.  Miss  Carmichael,  in  her  work, 
"  Things  as  They  Are  in  Missionary  Work  in  South- 
ern India,"  says,  "  It  is  required  in  a  steward  that  a 
man  be  found  faithful.  Praise  Godf  it  does  not  say 
'  successful.'  "  The  same  will  apply  to  missionary 
work  in  Africa. 

During  the  year  of  our  visit  the  rains  were  un- 
usually late,  and,  as  the  harvest  had  been  quite  light 


MATOPO    MISSION  227 

the  previous  year,  some  of  the  people  were  in  great 
need  of  grain.  Brother  Steigerwald  was  doing  all 
in  his  power  to  get  grain  out  from  Bulawayo  for 
them.  The  six  mules  were  hauling  out  every  week 
to  the  extent  of  their  strength,  for  farmers  are  not 
allowed  to  take  their  oxen  on  the  road,  for  fear 
disease  may  spread  among  the  cattle.  As  the  wagon 
returned  from  Bulawayo  with  fifteen  200-pound  bags 
of  grain  on  it,  the  people,  who  had  been  watching 
for  its  return,  hastened  to  come  to  the  mission  to 
purchase.  Grain  was  expensive,  about  seven  or 
eight  dollars  a  bag;  but  as  soon  as  it  was  unloaded 
it  was  sold.  Their  people  must  have  food,  and  many 
of  the  able-bodied  natives  had  been  away  to  work 
and  thus  procured  money,  and  perhaps  a  month's 
wages  would  buy  one  bag  of  grain.  Others  were 
trying  to  sell  some  of  the  cattle  and  sheep  for  grain. 
Although  many  of  these  old  people  who  were  buy- 
ing had  not  accepted  Christ  as  their  Savior,  yet 
they  have  absolute  confidence  in  His  messenger, 
Elder  Steigerwald,  and  they  come  to  him  in  their 
difficulties,  knowing  that  he  has  a  kind  heart.  He 
is  their  father,  as  Sister  Steigerwald  is  their  mother. 
A  love  feast  had  been  announced  for  Mtyabezi 
Mission  the  middle  olx  January,  and  arrangements 
had  been  made  for  allxt1ie  white  workers  and  as 
many  of  the  native  converts  as  possible  to  attend. 
Mr.  Steckly  and  Mr.  Hemming  went  across  the 
hills,  twenty-five  miles,  on  foot,  and  the  rest  of  us 
went  by  wagon  around  on  the  road — a  distance  of 
about  forty-five  miles.  This  road  was  down  through 
the  hills  in  the  direction  of  Mapani  Mission.  We 
started  on  Thursday  morning,  sleeping  out  on  the 


228  AFRICA 

veldt  during  the  night,  and  reached  Mtyabezi  on 
Friday  afternoon. 

Brother  Freys  were  at  that  time  in  America  on 
furlough,  but  the  work  was  ably  carried  on  by 
Brother  \Yalter  Winger  and  his  wife,  formerly 
Abbie  Bert,  and  Sister  Elizabeth  Engle.  This  is 
now  known  as  our  Girls'  School.  Twenty-five  girls 
were  then  staying  at  the  mission,  and  they  are  being 
trained  in  housework  and  sewing,  in  addition  to 
school  and  outside  work.  They  are  also  supplying 
some  of  our  Christian  boys  with  Christian  wives, 
and  Christian  marriage  is  taking  the  place  of  heath- 
en rites.  In  addition  to  these  there  was  a  good- 
sized  day-school,  which  was  under  the  excellent 
management  of  Miss  Sadie  Book.  There  were  also 
several  large  out-schools  in  connection  with  this 
mission.  A  large  brick  house  was  nearly  completed 
and  they  were  at  the  same  time  living  in  it.  This 
part  of  the  country  south  of  the  hills  was  especially 
suffering  from  drought  at  this  time.  Although  this 
was  in  the  middle  of  what  should  have  been  the 
rainy  season,  yet  no  rains  had  fallen,  and  the  entire 
country  was  bare,  not  a  blade  of  grass  was  to  be 
seen,  and  the  grain  sown  had  not  yet  sprouted. 
Brother  Winger  was  busy  with  his  wagon,  getting 
grain  out  from  the  station  ten  miles  away  to  help 
the  people. 

This  was  the  first  love  feast  in  Southern  Rhodesia 
that  I  had  been  permitted  to  attend  for  nearly  seven 
years,  and  I  had  looked  eagerly  forward  to  this 
gathering.  The  joy  of  seeing  the  natives  assemble 
for  the  occasion  was  too  deep  for  words.  First  to 
come  were  some  of  the  communicants  from  Matopo 


MATOPO   MISSION  229 

Mission  on  Friday  evening.  The  sisters  were  walk- 
ing in  front,  Indian  file,  with  their  blankets  and 
Sunday  clothing  tied  up  in  a  bundle  and  carried  on 
their  heads,  and  Sixpence  leading  the  way.  Follow- 
ing these  were  the  brethren,  with  Matshuba  bring- 
ing up  the  rear.  It  was  now  sundown  and  they  had 
walked  twenty-five  miles  and  were  tired,  so  they 
were  shown  their  places  for  the  night,  and  after  eat- 
ing their  supper,  and  prayer,  they  retired.  .The  next 
morning  early  a  similar  crowd  came  from  Mapani 
Station,  fifteen  miles  distant.  A  number  also  gath- 
ered from  the  vicinity  of  Mtyabezi  and  out-schools 
on  Saturday  morning.  The  little  church  could  not 
hold  all  and  an  overflow  meeting  was  held  on  the 
outside.  There  were  also  a  number  of  members 
who  could  not  be  present. 

Saturday  morning  was  devoted  to  a  short  dis- 
course and  self-examination  meeting,  followed  by 
testimonies.  It  was  an  inspiration  to  look  over  the 
crowded  house  and  listen  to  the  earnest  testimonies 
following  one  after  another  in  rapid  succession. 
Often  four  or  five  would  be  on  their  feet  at  once, 
and  yet  there  was  no  confusion  or  disorder,  as.  each 
one  quietly  waited  fpr  his  time  to  speak.  We  had 
to  say  to  ourselves,  Wain  and  again,  "  What  hath 
God  wrought !  "  We  cmild  not  avoid  contrasting 
the  early  days  of  nakedness  and  midnight  heathen- 
dom with  this  enlightened,  well-dressed  company 
before  us.  In  fact,  the  contrast  was  so  marked  that 
one  could  scarcely  bridge  the  chasm  even  in  imag- 
ination. 

In  the  afternoon  seventeen  from  Mtyabezi  Mission 
and  its  out-schools  were  received  into  the  Church 


230 


AFRICA 


Girls  at  Mtshabezi  Mission. 


by  the  right  hand  of  fellowship.  On  account  of  the 
drought  and  lack  of  water  in  the  streams,  the  bap- 
tism was  deferred  until  a  later  date.  There  were 
several  others  who  made  application,  but  after  ex- 


MATOPO   MISSION  231 

amination  it  was  thought  that  some  were  not  ready. 
On  Saturday  evening  the  natives  had  a  meeting  of 
their  own  and  were  addressed  by  Myamazana,  while 
the  missionaries  had  an  English  service  and  were 
addressed  by  Bishop  Steigerwald. 

On  Sunday  morning  we  again  gathered  to  ob- 
serve the  ordinance  of  feet-washing  and  to  com- 
memorate the  sufferings  and  death  of  our  Savior. 
There  were  over  300  natives  gathered  together, 
nearly  all  of  whom  were  either  members  or  in- 
quirers. The  native  communicants  were  129  and 
the  white  ones  eleven,  making  140  in  all,  and  these 
assembled  in  the  Church  while  the  rest  were  ad- 
dressed by  Mahlenhle  and  others  on  the  outside. 
We  had  now  a  better  opportunity  of  looking  into 
the  faces  of  those  who  had  been  received  into 
Church  fellowship.  As  our  missionaries  are  in  close 
touch  with  their  people  and  know  pretty  well  their 
private  lives,  we  knew  something  of  the  company 
before  us. 

It  was  indeed  an  intelligent  and  respectable-look- 
ing company  of  men  and  women,  one  to  be  proud 
of,  if  I  might  use  the  term.  Its  respectability  did 
not  depend  so  much;  on  the  fact  that  they  had 
thrown  off  the  undress Xof  paganism  and  had  donned 
the  garments  of  civilization.  That  is  not  necessarily 
an  adjunct  of  Christianity,  nor  is  it  all  due  to  Chris- 
tian influence.  While  the  missionaries  have  been 
laboring  these  years  to  win  souls  to  Christ,  many 
civilizing  influences  have  been  at  work  throughout 
the  country,  some  of  which  have  been  previously 
mentioned.  Stores  with  European  clothing  are  to 
be  found  everywhere,  and  many  natives  discard 


232  AFRICA 

their  heathen  garb  for  civilized  clothing  and  yet 
know  absolutely  nothing  of  Christ  and  His  power  to 
save.  Some  of  these  well-dressed  natives  about  the 
towns  have  learned  far  more  of  the  evils  of  civiliza- 
tion than  of  its  virtues,  and  hide  under  their  new 
dress  an  even  blacker  heart  than  they  did  under 
their  old  pagan  exterior.  Then  too  we  are  sorry  to 
say  that  intelligence  in  the  sense  of  having  been  at 
a  mission  station  and  learning  to  read  does  not 
necessarily  make  them  Christians.  Some  of  these 
also,  to  the  great  sorrow  of  their  teachers,  have 
m^de  poor  use  of  their  knowledge. 

It  is  because  the  missionary  sees  this,  and  knows 
only  too  well  the  many  pitfalls  before  their  unwary 
feet ;  it  is  because  he  realizes,  as  probably  no  one 
else  does,  what  it  means  to  these  poor  souls  to  be 
so  suddenly  brought  from  the  dense  darkness  of 
heathendom  into  the  glaring  lights  of  modern  civili- 
zation, and  how  unprepared  they  are  for  it  all,  how 
little  they  know  to  shun  the  evil  and  choose  the 
good ;  it  is  because  he  knows  how  helpless  these 
are  who  have  suddenly  broken  loose  from  their  old 
tribal  laws  and  customs — some  of  which  were  bene- 
ficial— and  have  been  cast  on  the  untried  sea  of 
strange  and  bewildering  surroundings,  without  any 
anchor  to  hold  or  compass  and  chart  to  guide  them — - 
I  say  it  is  because  the  missionary  knows  all  this  and 
much  more  that  he  can  rejoice  over  such  a  crowd  of 
fine-looking,  stalwart  men  and  women  as  were  gath- 
ered there  that  day  to  commemorate  the  sufferings 
and  death  of  our  Lord. 

He  sees  in  the  company  before  him  Christian 
homes,  free  from  ignorance  and  superstition,  free 


MATOPO   MISSION  233 

from  witchcraft  and  pagan  worship,  free  from  the 
beer,  the  filth,  and  degradation  of  their  neighbors. 
He  sees  in  this  company,  homes  free  from  the  li- 
centiousness and  vice  so  common  not  only  among 
their  heathen  neighbors,  but,  sad  to  say,  also  among 
some  of  their  white  ones.  The  missionary  can  re- 
joice that  here  are  men  and  women  who  have  the 
Anchor  in  their  souls  and  are  standing  as  beacon 
lights  to  their  heathen  neighbors  and  friends.  It 
means  much  to  them  on  the  one  hand  to  break  off 
from  their  old  heathen  lives ;  it  means  much  on  the 
other  not  to  be  allured  by  the  evils  of  the  white 
man's  civilization  and  the  inducements  so  often 
thrown  out  to  lead  lives  of  sin.  To  come  out  from 
all  these  and  accept  Christ  as  Savior  and  be  true  to 
Him  would  seem  to  be  an  almost  Herculean  task, 
and  much  greater  than  those  in  Christian  lands  are 
called  upon  to  perform.  But  we  know  that  it  has 
been  and  is  being  accomplished.  While  one  feels 
to  rejoice  over  these  sheep,  at  the  same  time  he 
bears  a  heavy  heart  for  those  other  ones  which  have 
been  devoured  by  the  grievous  wolves. 

The  missionary  is  abqut  the  only  force  that  makes 
for  righteousness  among\the  natives,  and  he  would 
often  feel  that  his  task  waVan  impossible  one  did  he 
not  continually  realize  that  he  is  only  under  orders 
of  Him  Who  is  sure  in  the  end  to  win.  Lest  some 
may  think  that  I  am  overestimating  some  of  these 
things,  let  me  again  quote  Mr.  Evans,  who  is  an 
authority  on  native  affairs  from  a  governmental 
standpoint.  He  says: 

"  What  is  effecting  the  most  profound  change  in 
the  native  is  his  contact  with  the  white  man  at  all 


234  AFRICA 

points,  and  this  change  is  proceeding  with  ever- 
accelerating  speed.  The  fundamental  difference  be- 
tween these  changes  and  those  wrought  by  the 
missionaries  is  that,  in  the  former  there  is  little 
building  up  of  any  salutary  influence  to  take  the 
place  of  the  old  wholesome  restraints,  whilst  in  the 
latter  religion  and  morality  are  inculcated  and  re- 
place the  checks  weakened  or  destroyed." 

The  work  in  Southern  Rhodesia  is  by  no  means 
completed ;  it  is  only  fairly  begun.  The  natives  are 
just  beginning  to  see  the  advantages  of  Christian 
teaching,  and  are  calling  more  and  more  loudly  for 
schools,  and  they  are  eagerly  availing  themselves 
of  the  opportunities  afforded.  There  is  a  large  field 
to  work  and  the  time  is  opportune.  Let  every  one 
of  God's  children  ask  himself  what  his  duty  and 
privileges  are  in  taking  possession  of  the  country  for 
God.  Our  people  should  have  at  least  one  more 
station  of  white  missionaries  here  as  well  as  others 
for  native  workers.  Shall  we  leave  to  themselves 
these  people,  who  are  emerging  from  centuries  of 
darkness,  to  the  influence  of  a  corrupt  civilization? 
Our  missionaries  are  laboring  to  the  extent  of  their 
ability  and  the  means  at  their  disposal.  The  work 
can  advance  only  as  it  is  backed  up  by  the  people  of 
the  homeland,  together  with  their  prayers  and 
money.  Something  depends  upon  you,  my  reader, 
whoever  you  may  be.  What  part  have  you  had  in 
the  winning  of  these  souls?  What  part  are  you 
going  to  have  in  those  yet  unborn  into  the  King- 
dom? 


PART  TWO 
MACHA  MISSION 


"  Lo,  I  am  with  you  always,  even  unto  the  end 

of  the  world" 

—Matt.  28:  20 


CHAPTER  ONE 
Bound  for  the  Zambezi 

AFRICA  is  a  gigantic  and  dark  continent.  In 
fact,  it  is  several  continents  in  one.  Al- 
though nearly  every  one  seems  to  know 
something  of  its  immensity,  yet  very  few  persons 
realize  it  unless  they  have  resided  for  a  time  in 
some  portion  of  its  vast  interior;  even  then  their 
knowledge  of  it  is  likely  to  be  quite  vague.  For 
centuries  travelers  of  various  nationalities  sought 
to  penetrate  it,  many  of  whom  perished  in  the  effort, 
while  others  brought  back  wonderful  stories  of  peril 
and  adventure. 

It  remained  for  David  Livingstone,  however,  to 
unearth  the  secrets  of  Central  Africa  and  to  expose 
to  the  gaze  of  Christendom  something  of  its  con- 
dition and  needs.  He  inspired  missionaries  to  press 
into  the  narrow  opening  thus  made,  and  to  carry  the 
light  of  the  Gospel  to  the  millions  bound  in  chains 
of  darkness  and  blackest  midnight.  Messengers 
have  been  heeding  the  call  and  have  been  kindling 
fires,  one  here  and  another  there,  in  the  darkness. 

In  dealing  with  missionary  work  in  Africa  we 
must  continually  keep  in  mind  the  fact  that  the  na- 
tives are  much  scattered.  The  population  cannot 
definitely  be  ascertained,  but  it  is  variously  esti- 
mated at  from  130  to  150-mtTTions  of  people.  These 
are  scattered  over  a  territory  equal  in  area  to  the 
237 


238  AFRICA 

United  States  of  America,  Europe,  India,  and  China 
combined.  In  certain  portions,  such  as  the  Sahara 
and  Kalahari  Deserts,  there  are  very  few  natives, 
while  the  lower  plains  and  river  valleys  support  a 
large  population.  These  alluvial  plains,  where  na- 
ture affords  an  abundance  of  food  with  a  minimum 
of  labor,  offer  great  inducements  to  the  easy-going 
Africans.  Here  they  settle  in  large  numbers,  not 
greatly  inconvenienced  by  the  unhealthfulness  of 
the  locality.  Pampered  by  the  amazing  prodigality 
of  nature  on  all  sides,  so  that  they  need  not  exert 
themselves  much  for  food,  and  requiring  little  cloth- 
ing in  this  mild  temperature,  they  settle  themselves 
to  the  enjoyment  of  their  animal  natures. 

The  missionary,  as  he  enters  these  swamps,  which 
are  reeking  with  malaria  and  other  death-breeding 
diseases,  takes  his  life  in  his  hand ;  for  Africa  has 
the  unenviable  reputation  of  being  the  "  white  man's 
graveyard."  It  is  true  the  medical  fraternity  are 
fast  solving  some  of  the  problems  which  confront 
everyone  entering  the  country,  yet  many  difficulties 
still  lie  in  the  path  of  the  missionaries  who  desire  to 
settle  in  the  more  densely  populated  regions. 

In  the  old  days  of  Dr.  Livingstone  and  his  im- 
mediate successors,  it  required  almost  a  small  for- 
tune to  penetrate  Central  Africa.  In  addition  to 
this  the  way  by  wagon  or  by  native  carriers  was 
long  and  tiresome,  and  the  traveler  was  subject  to 
delays  by  swollen  rivers,  dying  oxen,  and  many 
other  things-.  He  was  often  in  danger  of  his  life  by 
wild  animals  or  still  wilder  men,  so  that  some  never 
reached  their  desired  goal.  Even  after  missionaries 
had  succeeded  in  establishing  mission  stations,  they 


MACHA   MISSION  239 

suffered  much  in  health  from  exposure  and  lack  of 
comfortable  homes,  and  they  were  obliged  to  live 
on  the  coarse  native  food  much  of  the  time,  on  ac- 
count of  the  difficulty  in  procuring  supplies,  even 
though  they  might  have  had  sufficient  money  to 
procure  better  food. 

At  the  present  day  the  railroads  are  eliminating 
much  of  this  difficulty.  Their  advance  is  accom- 
plishing more  than  any  other  agency  in  opening 
up  the  continent  to  the  Gospel.  They  are  extend- 
ing right  into  the  heart  of  the  country,  making  use 
of  the  plateaus  on  which  to  build,  and  bringing  the 
necessities  of  life  and  even  many  of  its  luxuries 
within  reach  of  the  white  inhabitants. 

In  the  year  1904  the  Cape  to  Cairo  Railroad  was 
completed  as  far  as  the  Victoria  Falls  on  the  Zam- 
bezi River,  a  distance  by  rail  of  1,642  miles  from 
Cape  Town.  This  part  of  Africa  as  far  as  the  Zam- 
bezi is  generally  known  as  South  Africa.  If  one 
examines  a  map,  it  is  easy  to  be  seen  that  in  size  it 
is  a  very  inconspicuous  part  of  the  African  Contin- 
ent; but  in  point  of  modern  civilization  and  twen- 
tieth-century methods  of  doing  things  it  compares 
very  favorably  with  any  other  country.  Especially 
can  this  be  said  of  the  towns  and  vicinity,  but  there 
are  yet  many  natives  who  are  without  the  Gospel. 
On  my  return  to  Africa,  in  1905,  the  railroad  was 
being  extended  north  of  the  Zambezi,  the  objective 
point  at  that  time  being  Broken  Hill,  making  a  total 
distance  of  2,016  miles  from  Cape  Town. 

The  facts  just  mentioned  had  nothing  to  do  with 
our  call  to  interior  Africa,  for  that  came  before  we 
knew  what  the  actual  conditions  were  and  before 


240  AFRICA 

the  railroad  north  of  Bulawayo  was  built.  The 
opening  made  by  the  railroad,  however,  had  much 
to  do  in  making  the  advance  practicable  at  this  time. 

After  our  return  from  America  we  engaged  in 
the  work  at  Matopo  and  Mapani  for  nearly  a  year, 
and  continued  looking  to  the  Lord  to  ascertain  His 
will  as  to  the  time  of  opening  the  new  work,  for  we 
were  hoping  that  there  would  be  other  missionaries 
ready  to  move  out.  Money  was  on  hand  for  the 
purpose.  This  meant  something.  While  I  was  in 
America,  as  the  needs  of  pagan  Africa  were  set 
forth,  one  after  another  would  slip  a  bill  into  my 
hand,  saying,  "  I  too  want  a  share  in  pushing  on 
that  work  into  the  interior  of  Africa."  What  did  it 
all  mean — the  lack  of  workers,  the  ready  money  and 
the  intense  longing  in  my  own  soul  to  carry  the 
Light  to  those  people?  We  had  now  waited  a  year 
with  no  prospects  of  others  being  ready  to  go. 

Brother  Steigerwald  was  sending  to  America  for 
a  large  Studebaker  wagon,  and  he  advised  that  one 
also  be  ordered  for  the  forward  move,  that  both 
might  be  sent  out  together.  These  arrived  in  May, 
1906.  Ndhlalambi  had  felt  called  some  time  before 
to  carry  the  Gosepl  beyond  the  Zambezi.  Although 
he  was  quite  young,  he  was  proving  to  be  a  very 
steadfast  and  useful  helper,  both  at  Matopo  and  at 
Mapani  Mission.  When  they  were  opening  the 
latter  station,  Sister  Emma  Doner  wrote  to  me—- 
as I  was  in  America  at  the  time — and  said,  "  Ndhla- 
lambi is  such  a  good  helper  in  erecting  our  build- 
ings, as  Levi  has  been  quite  sick.  Perhaps  the 
Lord  is  preparing  him  so  that  he  can  build  for  you 
in  Interior  Africa."  At  that  time,  however,  I  little 


MACHA  MISSION  241 


Victoria  Falls  Bridge. 


242  AFRICA 

thought  that  it  would  be  necessary  to  rely  upon 
him  for  that  work. 

The  time  drew  near  when  a  decision  must  be 
made,  either  to  move  out  or  to  postpone  the  open- 
ing of  the  work  for  another  year,  and  much  time 
was  spent  out  among  the  rocks  alone  with  Him. 
From  a  human  standpoint  it  appeared  to  be  a  haz- 
ardous undertaking  to  enter  such  a  new  country,  and 
many  obstacles  were  in  the  way.  I  had  been  in- 
vited to  spend  the  year  at  Mapani  Mission,  and  was 
quite  ready  to  do  so,  providing  that  was  the  Lord's 
will  for  me.  On  the  other  hand,  if  He  desired  that 
the  work  beyond  the  Zambezi  be  opened  this  year, 
all  power  is  in  His  hands ;  it  would  be  a  small  affair 
for  Him  to  go  before  and  prepare  the  way.  The 
more  we  looked  to  Him  to  ascertain  His  will  the 
stronger  the  conviction  became  that  the  time  was 
at  hand.  Sister  Adda  Engle  also  expressed  herself 
as  being  ready  for  the  work.  The  rest  of  the  mis- 
sionaries were  requested  to  make  the  matter  a 
special  subject  of  prayer.  They  did  so,  and  a  few 
felt  that  an  onward  move  was  to  be  made ;  but  the 
majority  said  they  did  not  have  a  clear  understand- 
ing of  the  Lord's  will  in  reference  to  it. 

It  was  hoped  that  Brother  Steigerwald  might  be 
able  to  accompany  us  to  open  up  the  work;  but 
there  were  so  many  lines  of  work  engaging  his  at- 
tention at  the  time  that  it  was  impossible  for  him 
to  leave.  He,  however,  fitted  out  the  new  wagon 
with  a  strong  body  and  a  fine  large  tent,  6  x  13  feet 
over  the  whole,  and  as  far  as  possible  put  everything 
in  readiness  for  the  journey. 

Our  company  included,  besides  Sister  Engle  and 


MACHA   MISSION  243 

myself,  the  two  native  Christian  boys,  Ndhlalambi 
Moyo  and  Gomo  Sibanda.  The  latter  was  going 
chiefly  for  the  manual  labor.  They  were  both  trust- 
worthy and  we  knew  they  could  be  depended  upon. 
It  was  again  the  4th  of  July  when  we  started  on  this 
northern  journey,  just  eight  years  from  the  day  on 
which  we  had  left  Bulawayo  for  Matopo.  Brother 
and  Sister  Steigerwald  and  Sister  Frey  accompanied 
us  as  far  as  Bulawayo,  expecting  to  aid  us  in  pur- 
chasing supplies  and  to  assist  us  in  getting  started 
north.  Mr.  Jackson,  the  English  magistrate  at  Fort 
Usher,  gave  us  letters  of  introduction  to  the  Civil 
Commissioner  and  the  Administrator  of  North- 
ern Rhodesia,  as  the  country  north  of  the  Zambezi  - 
is  called. 

Unfortunately  it  was  found,  on  reaching  Bula- 
wayo,-that  much  of  the  business  could  not  be  attend- 
ed to  that  week  on  account  of  holidays,  so  that  our 
friends  were  obliged  to  return  to  their  station.  The 
Monday  following  was  a  busy  and  trying  day  on 
account  of  the  many  things  to  be  attended  to  and 
the  long  distances  to  be  traversed.  We  wished  to 
purchase  supplies  for  the  greater  part  of  the  year, 
for  we  knew  not  what  awaited  us  and  where  the 
next  would  come  from ;  and  it  was  also  necessary 
that  all  the  goods  be  sent  on  the  same  train  on 
which  we  went.  Everything  was  finally  accom- 
plished, and  July  10,  1906,  found  all  our  supplies, 
about  2,800  pounds  in  weight,  and  the  wagon,  on 
the  train  bound  for  Victoria  Falls. 

As  Sister  Engle  and  I  entered  our  compartment 
on  the  train  and  began  to  move  northward,  many 
conflicting  emotions  stirred  within  us,  and  it  was 


244  AFRICA 

with  much  trembling  and  looking  to  the  Lord  that 
we  went  forward.  We  knew  not  what  opposition 
confronted  us ;  for  we  had  been  informed  by  those 
who  knew  something  of  the  country  that  the  offi- 
cials might  not  allow  us  to  proceed  farther  than  the 
Zambezi  River.  Only  the  consciousness  that  we  were 
under  Divine  orders  gave  courage  to  proceed.  We 
had  the  promise,  "  Commit  thy  way  unto  the  Lord ; 
trust  also  in  Him  and  He  shall  bring  it  to  pass," 
and  we  were  resting  in  it. 

The  journey  of  280  miles  to  Victoria  Falls  is 
through  new  territory.  There  were  no  towns — - 
nothing  but  small  station  houses — and  the  country 
is  wild  and  in  some  places  quite  jungly-looking  and 
infested  by  numerous  wild  animals.  At  Wankie  we 
passed  through  the  region  of  the  coal-mining  dis- 
trict, where  there  is  a  large  vein  of  coal  which  is  a 
most  valuable  adjunct  of  the  railroad.  Victoria 
Falls  was  at  that  time  the  terminus  of  the  govern- 
ment-owned railroads,  and  the  limit  to  which  reg- 
ular trains  ran ;  and  we  could  not  avoid  wondering 
what  was  awaiting  us  beyond  that. 

As  we  stepped  off  the  train  at  Victoria  Falls  a 
gentleman  approached  us,  and  introducing  himself 
as  a  forwarding  agent,  inquired  if  he  could  be  of 
any  assistance  to  us.  He  inquired  if  we  were  not 
from  Matopo  Mission,  and  at  the  same  time  stated 
that  he  had  met  Mr.  Steigerwald  in  Bulawayo. 
What  a  surprise  and  relief  it  was  to  us,  for  he 
seemed  to  be  God's  especial  messenger,  sent  to  help 
us  on  the  way.  When  he  learned  of  the  situation 
he  at  once  set  our  minds  at  rest  by  the  assurance 
that  he  would  attend  to  everything  and  see  that  the 


MACHA  MISSION  245 

goods  and  wagon,  as  well  as  ourselves,  were  safely 
taken  across  the  Zambezi  River  to  the  town  of  Liv- 
ingstone, seven  miles  on  the  other  side.  The  railroad 
at  this  time  was  completed  to  Broken  Hill,  374  miles 
farther  north,  but  trains  were  run  only  occasionally. 
We  were  obliged, to  wait  at  this  place  two  days 
before  an  engine  could  be  procured  to  take  us  over 
to  Livingstone. 

An  opportunity  was  thus  afforded  of  viewing  that 
magnificent  sight,  Victoria  Falls,  which  was  dis- 
covered by  David  Livingstone  in  1855,  but  of  which 
little  was  known  until  comparatively  late  years. 
This  surpassingly  grand  bit  of  scenery  is  considered 
by  some  people  to  outrival  that  pride  of  all  Amer- 
icans, Niagara  Falls.  In  dimensions,  at  least,  it 
certainly  does  surpass  the  American  wonder.  The 
Zambezi  is  1,936  yards  wide  where  it  takes  its 
mighty  plunge  of  400  feet  into  a  vast  chasm  below, 
only  to  be  turned  into  clouds  of  spray  again  and 
rise  perhaps  a  thousand  feet  into  the  air.  Rainbows 
play  about  it,  forming  a  scene  of  wonderful  beauty 
and  grandeur.  The  rock  over  which  the  river  flows 
has  a  gigantic  V-shaped  crack  about  300  feet  wide, 
into  which  chasm  the  water  plunges.  The  opposite 
wall  is  unbroken,  save  at  one  place  where  it  forms 
a  gorge  300  feet  wide,  through  which  narrow  chan- 
nel all  the  water  of  the  falls,  over  a  mile  wide, 
escapes.  Along  this  opposite  wall  of  rock  is  "  Rain 
Forest,"  so  called  because  it  is  always  dripping  and, 
needless  to  say,  the  vegetation  here  is  most  luxuriant. 
Six  hundred  and  sixty  feet  below  the  gorge  is  a  rail- 
road bridge,  650  feet  long  and  420  feet  "above  the 
water,  the  central  span  being  500  feet.  The  view 


246 


AFRICA 


MACHA   MISSION  247 

of  these  falls  greatly  changes  at  different  seasons 
of  the  year.  To  see  them  at  the  height  of  their  mag- 
nificence, one  should  visit  them  at  the  close  of  the 
rainy  season  in  April,  as  at  that  time  the  volume  of 
water  is  much  greater.  At  the  close  of  the  dry 
season,  in  October  or  November,  when  the  water  is 
shallow,  the  Falls  are  often  much  broken  in  some 
places.  As  this  is  one  of  the  greatest  of  the  sights 
of  South  Africa,  thousands  of  tourists  visit  the 
scene,  and  a  hotel  had  been  erected  near  the  railroad 
at  this  place. 

Our  agent  informed  us  that  on  July  13  an  engine 
would  come  and  transfer  ourselves,  together  with 
the  goods  and  wagon,  to  the  Livingstone  station  on 
the  north  side.  For  this  purpose  the  wagon  and 
goods  were  loaded  on  an  open  truck,  and  as  there 
was  no  passenger  car,  we  too  climbed  up  into  the 
wagon,  on  the  truck,  and  in  this  manner  crossed 
the  Zambezi  on  that  railroad  bridge,  420  feet  high. 
At  Livingstone  the  car  was  met  by  another  agent 
who,  with  his  boys,  assisted  by  ours,  unloaded  the 
car  and  placed  the  wagon  under  the  shade  of  a 
tree.  Here  it  was  fitted  up  as  a  dwelling-place  for 
Sister  Engle  and  myself  for  the  remainder  of  the 
journey.  It  was  a  home  on  wheels.  We  praised  the 
Lord  that  He  had  cared  for  us  this  far  on  our  jour- 
ney and  permitted  our  feet  to  be  planted  on  the 
north  side  of  the  river.  Oxen  could  not  be  taken 
beyond  the  Zambezi  for  fear  of  carrying  disease, 
so  it  was  necessary  that  some  be  purchased  before 
we  proceeded  farther. 

This  part  of  the  country,  like  Southern  Rhodesia, 
is  under  control  of  the  British  Charter  Company, 


248  AFRICA 

but  with  a  separate  government.  Unlike  that,  it 
does  not  belong  to  the  English  by  right  of  conquest, 
but  through  concessions  granted  by  Lewanika,  the 
King  of  Barotseland,  and  paramount  chief  of  the 
country,  for  the  purpose  of  exploration  and  develop- 
ment. The  country  is  occupied  by  three  main  tribes 
— the  Barotse,  living  along  the  Upper  Zambezi  and 
west  of  Victoria  Falls ;  the  Baila,  or  Mashukulum- 
bwe,  as  they  are  often  called,  living  along  the  Kafue 
River  and  north,  and  the  Batonga,  on  the  plateau 
between  the  Kafue  and  Zambezi  Rivers  and  east. 

Those  familiar  with  his  life  will  remember  that 
this  is  part  of  the  country  explored  by  Dr.  Living- 
stone during  his  first  and  second  great  missionary 
journeys  through  Central  Africa,  from  1853  to  about 
1860.  The  Barotse  at  that  time  were  subject  to  the 
Makololo,  who  had  emigrated  from  Basutoland  and 
settled  along  the  Upper  Zambezi.  The  Makololo 
warriors  were  also  responsible  for  the  death  of  the 
first  party  of  missionaries  to  this  part  of  the  country. 
I  refer  to  the  expedition  under  Price  and  Helmore, 
sent  out  in  1859  in  response  to  Dr.  Livingstone's 
urgent  call.  Nearly  all  of  this  party  of  missionaries 
died  from  poison  administered  by  these  natives,  to 
the  great  sorrow  of  the  African  explorer.  His  mem- 
orable prophecy,  "  God  will  require  the  blood  of 
His  servants  at  the  hands  of  you  Makololo,"  was 
soon  fulfilled.  It  is  said  that  just  four  years  after- 
wards the  Barotse  arose  against  their  rulers,  the 
Makololo,  and  slew  them  and  asserted  their  inde- 
pendence. 

It  was  in  this  part  of  Africa  too  that  Livingstone 
first  saw  some  of  the  evils  of  the  slave  trade,  and  in 


MACHA   MISSION  249 

1873  he  wrote  to  Mr.  Gordon  Bennett :  "  When  I 
dropped  among  the  Makololo  and  others  in  this 
central  region,  I  saw  a  fair  prospect  for  the  regen- 
eration of  Africa.  More  could  have  been  done  in 
the  Makololo  country  [which  is  today  known  as 
Barotseland]  than  was  done  by  St.  Patrick  in  Ire- 
land, but  I  did  not.  know  that  I  was  surrounded  by 
the  Portuguese  slave  trade ;  a  barrier  to  all  improve- 
ment. .  .  .  All  I  can  say  in  my  loneliness  is,  may 
Heaven's  richest  blessing  come  down  on  every  one, 
American,  Englishman,  Turk,  who  will  help  to  heal 
this  open  sore  of  the  world."  A  very  remarkable 
circumstance  connected  with  this  utterance  is  that 
he  evidently  did  not  imagine  at  that  time  that  the 
healing  was  to  come  first  from  yet  another  country, 
France.  Just  six  years  (in  1879)  after  those  memor- 
able words  were  uttered,  Rev.  F.  Coillard  settled  in 
Barotseland.  He  and  his  heroic  wife  deserve  of  all 
people  in  this  part  of  the  country  to  be  called  Liv- 
ingstone's successors. 

These  natives  could  speak  the  Suto  language,  and 
as  the  Scriptures  had  been  translated  into  that  lan- 
guage for  years,  those  books  could  be  used  here 
among  the  Barotse,  just  as  Zulu  could  be  used  in 
Matabeleland,  In  the  opening  up  of  that  work, 
Christian  natives  from  Basutoland,  a  thousand  miles 
farther  south,  volunteered  to  accompany  Coillard. 
It  is  said,  "  Just  on  the  border  of  Barotseland  one  of 
these  native  evangelists,  Eleazer,  died.  '  God  be 
blessed,'  he  exclaimed,  when  he  knew  that  he  must 
give  up  his  heart's  desire  of  preaching  Christ  to  the 
Barotse,  '  God  be  blessed !  the  door  is  open.  My 
grave  will  be  a  finger  post  of  the  mission,'  "  as  quot- 


250  AFRICA 

ed  by  James  Steward.  So  that  it  may  be  seen  that 
consecrated  Africans  also  did  their  part  in  helping 
to  heal  this  sore.  Coillard  and  his  successors  have 
ever  since  carried  on  a  most  far-reaching  work  in 
Barotseland.  About  twenty  years  after  the  work 
was  opened,  Brother  Engle  had  the  great  pleasure 
of  accidentally  meeting  this  venerable  messenger  of 
the  Cross,  Mr.  Coillard,  in  a  store  in  Bulawayo.  His 
hair  then  was  white,  but  he  was  as  intensely  inter- 
ested as  ever  in  his  work,  and  was  in  a  hurry  to  be 
back  to  his  field  of  labor.  As,  at  that  time,  there  was 
no  railroad  farther  than  Bulawayo,  he  had  to  travel 
about  300  miles  by  ox-wagon  and  then  by  boat  on 
the  river.  The  labors  of  the  missionaries  and  the 
advantages  of  good  government  have  accomplished 
marvelous  results  in  bringing  peace  and  safety  to 
this  valley,  yet  even  at  this  late  date  there  are  not 
wanting  those  who,  if  they  dared,  would  rejoice  to 
resurrect  the  old  slave  trade. 

Among  the  Baila  tribe  the  Primitive  Methodists 
of  England,  after  encountering  many  difficulties 
along  the  way,  had  begun  a  work  in  1893  at  Nkala, 
and  a  few  years  later  at  Nanzela.  In  1905  they  also 
opened  one  at  Nambala,  about  seventy-five  miles 
north  of  the  Kafue.  Although  they  were  doing  ex- 
cellent work,  they  had  as  yet  been  able  to  reach  only 
a  small  portion  of  the  Baila  tribe  when  we  appeared 
on  the  scene.  There  were  no  missionaries  among 
the  Batonga  tribe  living  on  the  plateau  between  the 
Zambezi  and  Kafue  Rivers,  until  1915,  when  a  mis- 
sion was  opened  about  175  miles  northeast  of  Living- 
stone by  Mr.  Anderson,  of  the  Seventh  Day  Ad- 
ventist  Mission.  This  was  just  one  year  before  we 


MACHA   MISSION  251 

reached  the  country.  Livingstone  in  his  journey 
had  passed  through  much  of  this  country,  including 
Kalomo,  Monze  Tete,  and  the  Kafue  River. 


CHAPTER    TWO 
From  the  Zambezi  River  to  Macha 

THE  town,  Livingstone,  was,  in  1906,  quite 
small,  and  consisted  chiefly  of  government 
buildings,  postoffice,  native  stores,  railway 
station,  and  shops.  Some  of  these  buildings,  espe- 
cially those  owned  by  the  government,  were  well 
made  and  ant-proof.  The  town  was  at  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  railway  station  and  seemed  to 
have  been  built  on  a  hill  of  yellow  sand,  which  sand 
was  so  deep  that  walking  seemed  almost  impossible, 
and  riding  was  very  little  improvement  over  walk- 
ing. 

Our  first  step  was  to  call  on  the  Commissioner, 
Mr.  Sykes,  and  present  the  letter  of  introduction. 
He  met  us  in  a  friendly  and  accommodating  spirit, 
but  gave  no  encouragement  to  proceed  on  into  the 
interior,  owing  to  the  newness  of  the  country  and 
the  unsettled  condition  of  the  natives  in  some  places. 
His  version  of  the  work  accomplished  by  mission- 
aries was  not  very  flattering,  but  that  did  not  deter 
us  in  the  least,  as  one  generally  becomes  accus- 
tomed to  hearing  such  things.  He,  however,  did  not 
offer  to  throw  any  obstacles  in  the  way  of  our 
progress,  but  stated  that  it  would  be  necessary  for  us 
to  have  an  interview  with  the  Administrator  (gov- 
ernor) at  Kalomo,  the  capital  of  North  Rhodesia. 
He  expressed  his  willingness  to  do  whatever  lay  in 
252 


MACHA   MISSION  253 

his  power  to  aid  us  in  the  undertaking,  and  advised 
that  the  purchasing  of  trained  oxen  for  drawing  the 
wagon  be  left  in  his  hands,  and  he  would  see  to  it 
that  good  ones  at  a  fair  price  were  secured.  This 
generous  offer  was  most  gratefully  accepted.  We 
were  also  invited  to  his  home,  and  were  most  hos- 
pitably entertained  by  his  estimable  wife  and  his 
sister,  and  were  made  to  feel  that  as  yet  we  were 
not  beyond  the  reach  of  civilization.  They  were 
living  in  a  well-built  mosquito-proof  dwelling,  which 
had  been  made  in  England  and  sent  out  ready  to  be 
put  together. 

The  next  day  a  European  brought  to  our  tent  ten 
trained  oxen,  with  a  note  from  Mr.  Sykes,  that  he 
had  proved  these  and  found  them  satisfactory.  The 
price  too  was  below  what  had  been  expected.  Thus 
equipped  we  were  prepared  to  proceed  to  Kalomo, 
a  distance  by  wagon  road  of  nearly  one  hundred 
miles.  A  boy  was  employed  to  lead  the  oxen  and  a 
native  government  messenger  was  also  sent  along 
as  guide.  Gomo  was  to  do  the  driving,  but  the  man 
of  whom  the  oxen  had  been  purchased  said  he  did 
not  think  the  boy  knew  much  about  driving  oxen, 
and  so  it  proved  later.  There  were  occasional  pas- 
senger trains  running  north  through  Kalomo,  and 
some  of  the  people  at  Livingstone  had  advised  us  to 
take  the  train  that  far  and  let  the  boys  bring  the 
wagon.  Others,  however,  thought  it  best  for  us  to 
stay  by  the  wagon  and  supplies,  as  there  was  no 
suitable  hotel  at  Kalomo,  and  it  would  be  over  a 
week  before  the  wagon  could  reach  that  place,  so 
we  decided  to  remain  with  our  supplies. 

The  wagon  was  heavily  laden,  the  roads  were 


254  AFRICA 

rough,  and  rivers  bridgeless.  About  ten  miles 
out  from  Livingstone,  in  going  over  a  piece  of  rocky 
road,  the  reach  of  the  wagon  broke  and  further 
progress  was  impossible.  Had  the  drivers  been 
accustomed  to  this  wild  country,  and  the  accidents 
incidental  to  it,  they  might  soon  have  made  another 
reach  with  timber  from  the  forest  surrounding  us, 
as  they  often  did  in  later  years.  At  that  time,  how- 
ever, we  were  helpless.  What  was  to  be  done? 
There  was  only  one  course  open,  and  that  was  to 
take  the  wagon  back  to  Livingstone  and  have  it 
mended.  Some  of  the  party  remained  with  the 
wagon  and  supplies  and  the  rest  of  us  walked  back 
to  Livingstone  to  see  what  could  be  done.  The 
question  wanted  to  force  itself  upon  us,  Were  we 
after  all  mistaken  as  to  the  Lord's  leadings? 

Mr.  Sykes  was  again  the  Good  Samaritan,  when 
he  heard  our  story.  The  next  morning  he  sent  out 
conveyances  to  bring  all  back  to  Livingstone,  and 
he  and  Mrs.  Sykes  insisted  on  our  occupying  the 
guest  house  until  our  wagon  was  repaired.  There 
were  no  hotels  in  the  place,  and  we  were  informed 
that  prospectors  and  others  often  made  use  of  the 
government  house  for  an  indefinite  length  of  time. 
They  said  they  were  glad  the  accident  had  not  oc- 
curred forty  or  fifty  miles  out,  beyond  the  feach  of 
help.  We  too  felt  deeply  thankful  that  it  had  been 
no  worse,  and  in  a  short  time  we  were  made  to 
rejoice  that  there  had  been  an  accident ;  for  it  was 
soon  evident  that  it  was  a  blessing  in  disguise,  and 
God  had  permitted  it  for  a  purpose.  There  were 
two  roads  to  Kalomo,  and  neither  was  much  trav- 
eled at  the  time.  We  learned  that  the  one  on  which 


MACHA  MISSION  255 

our  guide  was  taking  us  was  not  well  supplied  with 
water,  was  infested  with  many  savage  beasts  and 
the  tsetse  fly,  which  kills  oxen,  so  that  it  was  alto- 
gether unsafe  for  the  journey. 

While  we  were  waiting  at  Livingstone  this  second 
time,  a  great  deal  of  information  was  gleaned  in 
reference  to  the  people  and  country  north  of  Kal- 
omo,  called  the  Mapanza  Sub-district.  We  learned 
that  the  people  there  were  quiet  and  peaceable  and 
that  there  were  no  missionaries  in  that  section  of 
the  country.  We  also  met  a  gentleman  from  Kal- 
omo,  who  proved  of  assistance  when  we  at  last 
reached  that  place.  Again  information  was  received 
that  a  number  of  wagons  under  Mr.  King  were 
proceeding  north  to  within  a  short  distance  of  Kal- 
omo, and  if  we  could  travel  in  their  company,  all 
difficulties  in  regard  to  the  route,  the  rinding  of 
water  for  the  oxen,  and  dangers  along  the  way 
would  be  at  an  end.  A  driver  accustomed  to  the 
country  was  also  secured  to  take  the  wagon  as  far 
as  Kalomo.  Thus  equipped  we  again  started.  As 
we  left  Livingstone,  Mr.  Sykes  exclaimed,  "  I  feel 
more  in  favor  now  of  your  going  on  than  I  did  the 
first  time." 

On  the  first  day  out  our  wagon  came  up  with  Mr. 
King's  company,  which  consisted  of  five  large  wag- 
ons, all  heavily  laden  with  goods  and  each  drawn  by 
eighteen  oxen.  They  were  traveling  north  to  within 
twenty-five  miles  of  Kalomo,  and  thence  west  and 
north  to  Tanganyika.  \Ve  might  have  delayed  a 
year  and  not  have  found  so  good  an  opportunity  of 
traveling  by  wagon  to  Kalomo.  We  followed  this 
train  of  wagons  and  had  no  anxious  thought  in 


256  AFRICA 

reference  to  the  journey.  Traveling  by  ox-wagons 
is  done  chiefly  at  night,  or  from  very  early  morning 
until  9  A.  M.  Then  the  oxen  are  outspanned  and 
allowed  to  graze  and  rest  during  the  heat  of  the  day, 
while  the  travelers  cook,  eat,  and  rest.  Late  in  the 
afternoon  the  oxen  are  again  inspanned  and  they 
travel  until  about  9  or  10  P.  M.,  when  they  stop  for 
the  night.  One  or  two  large  fires  of  logs  are  built 
at  each  wagon  and  kept  burning  through  the  night 
to  ward  off  wild  beasts  from  the  oxen.  Animals  are 
afraid  of  the  fire;  especially  do  lions  love  darkness 
rather  than  light,  their  favorite  nights  for  prowling 
being  the  dark,  rainy  ones.  This  king  of  beasts,  al- 
though the  strongest,  is  by  no  means  the  bravest. 
He  does  his  loudest  roaring  in  the  midst  of  his  na- 
tive haunts,  far  away  from  harm,  and  when  near  his 
prey,  human  or  otherwise,  his  tread  is  most  stealthy 
and  catlike. 

Before  retiring  for  the  night  the  natives,  especial- 
ly, cook  and  eat.  They  often  do  with  a  small  por- 
tion of  food  during  the  day,  but  before  retiring  they 
like  an  abundance  of  good  porridge  and  meat.  They 
then  retire  to  rest,  their  favorite  place  being  around 
the  huge  campfires.  Sister  Engle  and  I  were  very 
comfortably  situated  in  the  tent  of  the  wagon.  Two 
other  difficulties  likely  to  meet  travelers  in  this 
part  of  the  country  are  scarcity  of  water  and  the 
tsetse  fly.  If  the  latter  is  met  with  it  is  necessary  to 
make  the  journey  through  the  infested  district  en- 
tirely by  night.  Since  the  uninitiated  are  not  fa- 
miliar with  the  location  of  these  districts,  the  oxen 
are  often  bitten  without  their  knowledge,  and  death 
is  certain,  for  as  yet  no  remedy  for  the  bite  has 


MACHA   MISSION  257 

been  discovered.  As  for  water,  that  is  one  of  the 
great  difficulties  on  these  African  plateaus,  and  at 
one  time  we  were  obliged  to  travel  seventeen  miles 
without  seeing  any.  Since  oxen,  with  heavily-laden 
wagons,  travel  slowly,  this  required  the  oxen  to  be 
inspanned  three  times  before  water  was  reached. 
Mr.  King  rode  a  horse  and  went  in  advance  to  look 
for  water  and  camping  places,  and  also  for  game, 
which  generally  furnishes  a  large  proportion  of  the 
food,  both  for  white  people  and  black  ones  on  such 
trips.  We  ourselves  would  be  favored  with  a  piece 
of  delicious  venison  after  such  excursions.  Water 
in  casks  was  carried  along  from  one  watering  place 
to  another  for  cooking  and  drinking  purposes,  but 
it  is  never  drunk  without  being  boiled  or  made  into 
tea,  and  even  then  it  is  often  very  muddy-looking. 

Mr.  King  was  familiar  with  the  country,  and  had 
formerly  traded  with  the  people  in  the  vicinity  of 
Macha,  north  of  Kalomo,  so  that  he  could  furnish 
all  necessary  information  about  the  Mapanza  dis- 
trict, to  which  we  desired  to  go.  This  was  the  first 
time  we  heard  the  name  of  the  place  which  was 
destined  to  be  the  future  mission  station.  The  in- 
formation received  from  him  proved  invaluable  later 
on,  when  the  question  of  location  was  being  consid- 
ered. As  the  way  thus  opened,  step  by  step,  we 
were  continually  made  to  feel  that  the  Lord  was 
guiding  and  causing  all  things  to  work  together  for 
good  toward  the  opening  of  the  work,  and  our 
hearts  were  filled  with  gratitude  for  His  many  fa- 
vors. 

The  last  forty  miles  of  the  journey  were  made 
alone,  as  we  did  not  care  to  travel  on  Sunday,  and 


258  AFRICA 

the  other  wagons  were  soon  to  leave  and  proceed 
westward.  We  reached  Kalomo  August  1,  after  a 
journey  of  nine  days.  This  place,  although  the  chief 
seat  of  government,  could  not  be  designated  a  town. 
It  was  rather  a  scattered  camp,  containing  two  small 
stores,  a  postoffice,  and  the  dwellings  and  offices  of 
the  government  officials.  The  railway  station  was 
about  three  miles  distant.  Here  the  fate  of  the  un- 
dertaking was  to  be  decided,  as  to  whether  we 
should  be  permitted  to  proceed  or  be  turned  back. 
That  morning  in  worship  the  Lord  gave  us  Isaiah 
41 :  10  for  a  promise,  which  greatly  encouraged  our 
trembling  hearts.  We  had  now  been  absent  from 
Bulawayo  four  weeks  and  had  received  no  mail,  as 
it  had  been  ordered  sent  to  this  place;  so  the  first 
journey  was  to  the  postoffice.  I  went  for  the  mail 
alone,  and  inquired  first  for  myself.  The  clerk  ex- 
claimed, "And  Miss  Engle,  too?"  and  handed  out 
a  bundle  of  letters,  all  carefully  laid  together  in  a 
place  by  themselves.  Evidently  we  were  expected, 
and  visitors  were  not  common,  especially  women. 
It  was  necessary  first  to  meet  the  secretary  of 
the  Lands'  Department,  so  in  the  afternoon  Sister 
Engle  and  I  proceeded  to  his  office.  He  had  heard 
of  our  coming  and  absolutely  refused  a  place  in 
Mapanza  district  on  which  we  might  locate.  His 
reasons  were  more  or  less  plausible,  and  we  were 
not  wholly  unprepared  for  his  answer.  We  learned 
afterwards  that  we  were  not  the  only  persons  who 
had  failed  to  receive  encouragement  from  this 
gentleman.  He  added,  however,  that  they  could  not 
hinder  our  proceeding  farther  if  we  felt  so  inclined. 
He  suggested  our  going  to  Broken  Hill,  the  ter- 


MACHA   MISSION  259 

minus  of  the  railroad,  280  miles  northeast,  as  there 
were  some  white  inhabitants  there.  That  no  doubt 
would  have  been  a  good  opening  for  a  mission  sta- 
tion, as  there  were  no  missionaries  there  at  this 
time,  and  only  one  between  Kalomo  and  that  place. 
It  did  not,  however,  seem  to  be  the  Lord's  will  for 
us  to  proceed  that  far,  and  since  there  would  be  a 
new  set  of  officials  there  to  deal  with,  our  reception 
might  not  be  any  better.  After  sending  our  letter 
of  introduction  to  the  Administrator,  we  turned  to- 
ward the  wagon  to  consider  and  pray  over  the  affair 
realizing  that  a  more  perplexing  problem  than  a 
broken  wagon  was  facing  us. 

We  had  not  proceeded  far  when  a  gentleman  came 
to  inform  us  that  .the  Administrator,  who  is  the 
highest  official  in  the  country,  requested  an  inter- 
view. We  were  kindly  received  by  the  honorable 
gentleman  and  given  an  opportunity  of  explaining 
in  what  part  of  the  country  we  desired  to  open  a 
mission  station,  and  the  condition  of  the  natives  in 
that  section.  He  said  that  he  saw  no  serious  dif- 
ficulty in  the  way,  and  that  he  was  in  favor  of  al- 
lowing us  to  proceed  and  select  a  mission  site.  He 
affirmed,,  however,  that  the  unhealthfulness  of  the 
climate  was  the  most  serious  obstacle ;  and,  since  it 
was  late  in  the  season  for  us  to  put  up  a  mosquito- 
proof  dwelling  before  the  rainy  and  unhealthy  sea- 
son came,  he  thought  it  best  for  us  to  select. a  place 
and  then  go  south  until  the  rains  were  over.  Other- 
wise we  might  be  stricken  with  fever,  a  deadly  type 
of  which,  known  as  black  water  fever,  is  common 
in  this  section  of  the  country.  We  promised  to  con- 
sider seriously  his  advice,  if  a  proper  dwelling  could 


260  AFRICA 

not  be  secured  before  the  rains  came.  He  then  di- 
rected us  to  the  civil  commissioner  of  that  district, 
who  especially  encouraged  the  undertaking,  ex- 
pressing his  belief  that  we  would  encounter  no  dif- 
ficulty among  the  natives,  since  he  was  familiar  with 
and  had  jurisdiction  of  Mapanza  district.  He  said, 
"  The  field  is  before  you,  and  as  there  are  no  other 
missionaries  there,  it  is  yours  to  occupy."  He  also 
gave  a  letter  to  the  magistrate  at  Mapanza  and  a 
native  messenger  to  show  us  the  way. 

It  was  with  thankfulness  too  deep  for  words  that 
we  returned  to  the  wagon.  God  was  again  verifying 
His  wonderful  promises.  Praise  His  Holy  Name ! 
Part  of  our  freight  had  been  sent  to  Kalomo  by 
train,  so  after  procuring  that  from  the  station,  we 
proceeded  north  about  sixty  miles  through  Macha 
and  other  places  to  the  camp  of  the  official  at  Ma- 
panza. When  about  half  the  distance  was  traversed 
we  unexpectedly  came  upon  a  Dutch  family  living 
there  all  alone  in  the  wilds.  They  had  not  been 
there  long  and  were  not  permanent  settlers,  but  we 
managed  to  purchase  from  them  some  fine  imported 
chickens  and  some  banana  sprouts,  all  of  which 
have  proved  to  be  a  most  useful  addition  to  our 
mission  property. 

The  natives  were  much  scattered  in  a  portion  of 
the  country  through  which  we  passed  until  we  ap- 
proached the  vicinity  of  Macha.  Here  they  were 
much  more  thickly  settled,  and  also  from  this  on 
to  the  camp  at  Mapanza.  At  the  latter  place  the 
official  was  not  at  home.  While  waiting  for  him  we 
concluded  to  visit  some  of  the  natives  and  went  to 
the  village  of  one  of  the  most  prominent  chiefs  of 


MACHA   MISSION  261 

this  district,  Mapanza  by  name.  There  were  thirty- 
five  huts  in  the  village.  In  the  center  of  this  was  a 
large  cattle  pen,  and  around  it  and  the  outside  of 
the  palisade  the  huts  were  built  in  a  circle,  all  open- 
ing toward  the. center.  As  we  entered  this  enclosure 
we  were  greeted  with  clapping  of  hands  on  all  sides. 
This  is  the  native  way  of  saluting  their  king  and 
government  officials  and  sometimes  other  white 
people.  In  this  instance  the  uniformed  government 
messenger  accompanied  us,  and  no  doubt  gave 
prestige  to  our  visit.  The  people  of  the  village  re- 
ceived us  in  a  friendly  manner,  but  since  their  lan- 
guage was  unintelligible  to  us  we  soon  returned  to 
the  wagon. 

The  time.of  the  official's  return  was  uncertain  and 
we  preferred  not  to  locate  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  camp,  so  it  was  thought  advisable  to  return  a 
short  distance  and  select  a  mission  site.  Some  of 
the  rivers  through  which  we  had  safely  come  proved 
more  difficult  on  the  return  journey.  Gomo  had 
been  driving  since  we  left  Kalomo  and  did  excel- 
lent work;  but  he  found  the  Myeki  River  here  at 
the  camp  very  difficult  to  cross.  There  are  long, 
steep  hills  on  either  side  of  the  river,  and  in  addition 
to  this  the  be.d  of  the  bridgeless  stream  is  quite  deep. 
Our  oxen  had  done  splendid  work  on  the  long  jour- 
ney from  Livingstone,  but  in  recrossing  this  river 
they  seemed  unequal  to  the  effort.  After  struggling 
awhile  one  finally  lay  down  and  refused  to  move. 
This  was  a  new  experience  for  us,  but  perhaps  not 
for  the  boys.  Gomo  used  every  inducement  to  make 
it  rise,  but  to  no  avail.  To  our  amusement  he  finally, 
as  a  last  resort,  bit  its  tail.  It  was  up  in  an  instant 


262  AFRICA 

and  the  wagon  moved  on.  We  have  since  learned 
that  oxen  are  often  more  stubborn  than  that  one, 
especially  new  ones.  They  sometimes  lie  down  and 
nothing  will  induce  them  to  move.  They  will  en- 
dure fire  and  even  death  itself. 

We  drove  back  and  carefully  looked  over  the  va- 
rious locations,  and  after  asking  the  Lord  for  direc- 
tion, we  finally  decided  upon  our  present  site  on  the 
bank  of  the  Macha  River,  or  rather  on  the  hill  above 
it.  The  tent  was  removed  from  the  wagon  and 
placed  on  poles  and  prepared  for  occupancy.  This 
place  is  about  fourteen  miles  from  the  camp  at 
Mapanza,  and  was  reached  August  17,  a  little  over 
six  weeks  from  the  time  we  left  Matopo  Mission. 
We  had  traveled  in  all  about  485  miles,  about  170  of 
which  was  by  ox-wagon.  Our  journal  of  the  time 
records : 

"  In  all  the  Lord  has  wonderfully  given  us  health 
and  strength,  and  no  harm  of  wild  beasts  or  wilder 
men  has  befallen  us.  The  journey  had  been  far 
more  successful  in  every  way  than  we  had  antici- 
pated, and  we  praise  the  Lord  that  at  last  we  are 
settled." 


CHAPTER  THREE 
The  Opening  of  the  Work  at  Macha 

IN  selecting  a  location  for  the  mission,  the  desire 
was  to  secure  a  place  sufficiently  high  so  as  to 
be  at  a  distance  from  the  low  swamps,  breeding 
malaria  and  other  deadly  diseases,  and  yet  near 
enough  to  the  river  so  as  to  have  access  to  water. 
We  desired  also  to  have  land  in  the  vicinity  suitable 
for  agriculture  and  industrial  purposes  in  general, 
and  for  the  growing  of  fruit  and  vegetables.  Then 
again,  in  addition  to  the  above  requirements,  the 
object  of  our  coming  to  the  country  was  not  to  be 
lost  sight  of;  i.  e.,  the  natives  themselves.  We  de- 
sired to  have  easy  access  to  them  so  that  they  might 
receive  the  Gospel.  All  of  these  requirements  were 
prayerfully  considered  and  we  believe  met  in  the 
location  of  Macha.  As  eight  years  have  passed 
since  then,  our  convictions  have  only  been  strength- 
ened that  it  was  the  Lord's  choice  for  the  work. 

As  near  as  can  be  estimated  the  location  is  about 
16^°  south  latitude  and  27°  east  longitude,  and  is 
about  4,500  feet  above  sea  level,  so  that,  although  it 
is  within  the  tropics,  the  altitude  causes  the' climate 
to  be  pleasant  the  greater  portion  of  the  year  and 
as  healthful  a  site  as  can  be  secured  in  that  secction 
of  the  country.  Along  one  side  of  the  3,000-acre 
mission  farm  is  a  small  river,  which  gives  name  to 
the  locality,  and  the  tent  was  pitched  over  half  a 
263 


264  AFRICA 

mile  from  this  river.  The  place  afforded  excellent 
facilities  for  agriculture  and  fruit  growing.  Espe- 
cially can  bananas  and  citrus  trees  be  grown  with- 
out irrigation.  The  country  is  rolling  and  there  "are 
numerous  rich  valleys  capable  of  supporting  many 
natives.  There  are  wagon  roads  which  have  been 
made  by  traders  who  go  through  the  country  and 
buy  grain  of  the  natives  in  exchange  for  cloth, 
ornaments,  blankets,  and  clothing.  There  were  no 
surveyed  farms  in  this  vicinity,  and  the  only  farm- 
ers near  lived  over  twenty  miles  from  Macha,  but 
numerous  villages  of  natives  are  within  walking 
distance  and  wagon  road. 

At  the  opening  of  Macha  Mission  there  was  a 
station  of  Primitive  Methodists  northwest  at  a  dis- 
tance of  at  least  sixty  miles,  and  the  one  of  the  Sev- 
enth Day  Adventist  Mission  at  about  the  same  'dis- 
tance northeast.  With  the  exception  of  these  two 
places  one  might  go  a  hundred  miles  in  any  other 
direction  and  not  find  a  mission  station,  so  that  we 
could  certainly  feel  that  we  were  not  intruding  into 
the  territory  of  any  other  missionaries.  The  natives 
in  this  part  of  the  country  had  heard  absolutely 
nothing  of  Christ,  and  they  knew  not  what  mission- 
aries were  or  how  they  differed  from  other  people. 

Our  little  tent,  6  x  13  feet,  was  sufficiently  com- 
modious for  eating  and  sleeping,  but  all  the  work 
had  to  be  performed  on  the  outside  in  the  shade  of 
a  large  tree,  near  which  the  tent  had  been  placed. 
Beneath  this  tree  also  our  supplies  were  piled  off 
the  ground  and  away  from  the  destructive  white 
ants,  of  which  the  ground  was  everywhere  full.  We 
had  no  cookstove  then,  and  all  our  cooking  was 


MACHA   MISSION  265 

done  over  an  open  fire,  while  bread  was  baked  in  a 
large,  flat-bottomed  iron  pot  with  long  legs.  This 
was  placed  over  a  bed  of  live  coals,  while  coals  were 
also  placed  on  the  iron  cover.  Some  very  good 
yeast  bread  came  from  that  iron  pot,  novel  perhaps 
to  Americans,  but  familiar  to  Africanders.  Many 
people  traveling  through  the  country  made  use  of 
the  ant  hills  as  bake-ovens. 

The  Christian  boys  who  accompanied  us,  as  well 
as  some  younger  ones  who  came  for  work,  camped 
at  a  short  distance  from  the  tent,  and  at  night 
slept  around  the  fire  until  huts  could  be  built 
for  them.  Before  the  mission  site  had  been 
agreed  upon  two  young  boys  came  and  asked 
for  work.  We  took  them,  and  one  of  these 
has  been  one  of  our  most  faithful  helpers.  As 
grain  was  plentiful  in  the  neighborhood  there  was 
no  difficulty  in  securing  food  for  the  natives.  Many 
of  the  older  people,  men  and  women,  came  to  see 
and  welcome  us.  Every  effort  was  put  forth  toward 
erecting  buildings  before  the  rains  came  on,  but  as 
fires  had  swept  over  the  country  and  destroyed  most 
of  the  grass,  it  was  evident  that  our  chief  difficulty 
would  be  in  procuring  thatching  grass.  This  diffi- 
culty was  obviated  by  a  man  at  Mapanza,  who  was. 
erecting  a  house  for  the  commissioner,  offering  us 
for  a  small  sum  a  lot  of  grass  that  he  had  on  hand. 
Some  time  later  our  journal  is  as  follows : 

These  have  been  busy  days;  much  work  has  been  crowded 
into  them.  Building  and  making  furniture  have  oc- 
cupied the  attention  of  all  of  us,  and  everything  has  had 
to  be  done  with  native  material  and  few  tools,  which  have 
increased  the  amount  of  labor.  The  poles  had  to  be  hauled 


266  AFRICA 

five  or  six  miles  and  some  of  the  grass  for  thatching  was 
brought  fourteen  miles.  Xdhlalambi  has  been  a  faithful 
and  excellent  workman.  He  is  not  as  quick  as  some,  but 
few  natives  would  have  succeeded  in  making  better  build- 
ings, as  he  is  careful  and  painstaking  in  all  he  does. 
Gomo  is  just  the  opposite;  he  is  just  as  willing,  but  is  no 
builder.  He  has,  however,  been  very  useful  in  hauling 
poles  and  grass,  and  mud  for  plastering,  and  he  performed 
a  splendid  service  in  venturing  among  the  Baila  (a  warlike 
tribe  north  of  us)  and  purchasing  for  us  two  cows.  Sister 
Engle  and  I  have  been  bending  all  our  energies  toward 
helping  with  the  building  in  the  more  technical  parts,  so 
that  the  work  might  be  accomplished  as  soon  as  possible, 
and  we  have  been  spending  some  of  our  time  in  making 
furniture.  There  has  been  no  difficulty  in  securing  na- 
tives to  work  for  us,  and  they  have  all  worked  faithfully 
under  Xdhlalambi's  supervision. 

There  seems  to  be  nothing  to  mar  the  work  and  loca- 
tion thus  far,  except  the  savage  beasts,  which  prowl 
around  at  night,  a  terror  to  the  domestic  animals  and  to 
ourselves.  When  we  pray,  "  Keep  us  from  harm  and 
danger,"  it  is  a  more  genuine  prayer  than  formerly.  Many 
nights  the  howls  of  the  wolves  and  hyenas  are  to  be 
heard,  and  one  night  some  of  the  boys  awoke  to  see  in 
the  firelight  the  eyes  of  a  hyena  glaring  at  them.  Som» 
of  the  natives  built  a  high,  strong  pen  for  our  cattle,  and 
the  first  night  they  were  enclosed  in  it  a  lion  tried  to  force 
its  way  in,  as  indicated  by  the  spoors  the  next  morning. 
Leopards  have  also  been  seen.  These  evidences,  as  well 
as  the  stories  told  by  others,  convince  us  that  there  are 
wild  beasts  in  the  neighborhood,  yet  the  Lord  is  able  to 
keep  and  has  thus  far  kept  us  from  harm. 

The  91st  Psalm  was  very  precious  in  those  days. 

These  first  buildings  were  constructed  in  a  man- 
ner very  similar  to  those  at  Matopo  Mission,  except 
that  it  was  thought  advisable  to  build  the  main  part 
of  the  house  all  in  one,  so  as  to  obviate  the  necessity 
of  going  outside  in  passing  from  one  room  to  an- 


MACHA  MISSION  267 

other — a  very  important  consideration  in  such  a 
wild  country.  The  scarcity  of  grass  limited  the  size 
of  the  house  to  a  certain  extent.  It  was  26  x  14  feet, 
with  a  veranda  around  three  sides  to  protect  from 
the  sun  and  rain,  and  was  divided  into  three  small 
compartments  opening  into  one  another,  the  small 
doorways  being  closed  by  curtains.  As  there  was  no 
seasoned  lumber  to  be  had,  there  was  only  one 
outside  door,  and  this  was  made  from  one  of  the 
boxes  in  which  the  goods  had  been  packed.  A 
table  was  manufactured  from  another  box,  and  the 
bedsteads,  as  well  as  nearly  all  the  rest  of  the  fur- 
niture, were  manufactured  from  native  unseasoned 
timber  and  draped  with  calico.  A  muslin  ceiling 
was  a  necessity  to  prevent  the  sawdust  from  falling 
from  the  rafters. 

On  the  inside  of  the  house  the  walls  were  careful- 
ly plastered  up  against  the  thatched  roof,  and  the 
openings  for  windows  were  closed  by  fine  wire 
gauze  netting  to  exclude  mosquitoes.  An  important 
question  was  how  to  make  a  screen  door  for  the 
only  outside  door  of  the  building,  as  unseasoned 
timber  would  not  answer  the  purpose.  The  pole 
of  the  wagon  had  been  broken  soon  after  our  arrival 
at  Macha,  and  one  from  the  forest  put  in  its  place ; 
and  since  this  broken  piece  of  timber  was  of  hard- 
wood and  sufficiently  long  for  a  door  frame,  we  de- 
cided to  make  use  of  it  for  that  purpose.  It  was 
sawed  and  with  considerable  labor  made  into  a 
frame  and  proved  quite  satisfactory.  Sister  Engle, 
who  was  always  patient  and  painstaking  in  her 
work  and  full  of  resources,  deserves  much  credit  for 
this  and  many  other  things  with  which  the  house 


268  AFRICA 

was  equipped.  That  screen  door  is  still  doing  excel- 
lent service  after  a  lapse  of  eight  years.  After  it 
was  finished  it  was  found  that  to  fit  it  into  the  door 
frame  so  as  to  make  it  mosquito  proof  was  no  smalj 
task.  The  door  frame  had  been  manufactured  from 
unseasoned  native  timber  and  was  greatly  warped. 
After  much  chiseling  and  shaping  even  this  feat  was 
accomplished,  and  the  result  was  a  mosquito-proof 
house,  for  that  season  at  least.  Mosquito  nets  for 
the  beds  had  also  been  brought  along. 

A  small  kitchen  was  also  built  and  a  hut  for  the 
native  brethren  before  the  rains  came.  The  grass, 
stumps,  and  underbrush  were  cleared  off  all  around 
the  buildings  and  at  some  distance  from  them.  This 
is  customary  in  this  part  of  the  country,  and  it  is 
done  for  the  purpose  of  removing  the  hiding  places 
of  mosquitoes,  snakes,  and  the  like.  Although  more 
natives  were  employed  the  first  few  months  at 
Macha  than  at  Matopo,  we  experienced  no  difficulty 
in  dealing  with  them ;  perhaps  because  we  were 
more  familiar  with  their  character,  and  our  native 
Christians  too  were  quite  capable  of  understanding 
them. 

During  the  progress  of  the  work,  the  advice  of 
the  Administrator  had  not  been  forgotten,  as  it  was 
our  earnest  desire  to  do  that  which  was  best,  and 
we  looked  to  the  Lord  for  guidance.  It  seemed  ad- 
visable to  remain.  Contrary  to  his  expectations,  a 
mosquito-proof  dwelling-house  had  been  construct- 
ed, and  the  work  which  was  started  would  certainly 
have  suffered  if  we  had  gone  away.  The  boys  who 
had  accompanied  us  were  in  every  respect  proving 
themselves  capable  and  reliant ;  the  natives  were 


MACHA   MISSION  269 

quiet  and  respectful ;  and  not  the  least  difficulty  in 
the  way  of  our  return  was  the  long,  dangerous  trip 
to  Kalomo  to  reach  the  railroad.  We  had  safely 
come  that  way  once,  yet  we  dreaded  the  long  trip 
back,  perhaps  because  we  did  not  believe  that  it 
was  the  Lord's  will  for  us  to  make  it.  The  post  was 
brought  to  our  door  by  the  government  messenger 
as  he  passed  on  his  way  to  Mapanza,  and  a  trader 
near  offered  to  bring  out  from  Kalomo  any  needed 
supplies. 

All  our  needs  thus  far  were  abundantly  supplied 
by  a  loving  Fathe'r.  All  praise  to  Him  Who  "  is  able 
to  do  exceeding  abundantly  above  all  that  we  ask  or 
think."  Even  in  our  most  sanguine  expectations 
before  coming  to  the  country  we  had  not  thought  to 
be  so  well  provided  for.  He  in  His  infinite  wisdom 
and  forethought  had  gone  before  and  prepared  ev- 
ery step  of  the  way ;  He  had  opened  every  door  and 
enabled  the  mission  to  be  thus  planted  in  raw  heath- 
endom where  Christ  had  not  been  named.  The  lo- 
cation proven  by  years  of  trial  could  not  have  been 
improved,  for  He  makes  no  mistakes.  The  call  and 
the  desire  for  the  extension  of  His  Kingdom,  which 
He  had  put  into  our  hearts  before  ever  Africa  was 
reached,  was  thus  being  fulfilled.  He  had  done  and 
was  doing  His  part;  what  more  could  we  ask?  Yea, 
we  were  weighted  down  and  humbled  by  the  mul- 
titude of  favors  which  He  was  showering  upon  us. 
The  only  thing  to  mar  our  peace  at  this  time  was 
th«  consciousness  that  .our  friends  and  some  of  the 
government  officials  were  uneasy  on  our  account. 
We  saw  no  cause  for  fear,  and  were  conscious  that 
the  continued  prayers  ascending  in  behalf  of  our- 


270  AFRICA 

selves  and  the  work  were  availing  before  God,  and 
that  we  were  at  the  place  where  He  desired  us  to 
be. 

After  the  buildings  were  completed  and  the  rains 
came  the  boys  put  forth  every  effort  to  dig  some  of 
the  ground  and  plant  grain  and  vegetables.  This 
had  to  be  done  by  hand,  as  the  plow  had  not  yet 
arrived. 

In  the  many  duties  incident  to  starting  a  new 
station,  the  spiritual  part  of  the  work  was  not  neg- 
lected. A  little  visiting  among  the  people  was  done 
both  by  Sister  Engle  and  myself  and  by  the  native 
brethren.  An  attempt  was  also  made  each  Sunday  to 
instill  into  the  minds  of  the  people  something  of 
the  sacredness  of  the  day.  Since  a  number  of  na- 
tives came  daily  to  work  at  the  mission,  they  were 
informed  that  we  did  not  work  on  Sunday,  but  wor- 
shiped God  instead.  It  was  thus  not  difficult  to 
assemble  twenty-five  or  thirty  on  Sunday  for  serv- 
ices. These  were  always  married  people,  with  the 
exception  of  the  few  boys  who  were  staying  at  the 
mission  to  work.  The  younger  people,  and  especial- 
ly the  girls  and  children,  were  conspicuous  only  by 
their  absence.  It  was  the  same  at  the  village ;  none 
except  men  and  women  were  to  be  seen,  so  that  at 
first  we  all  concluded  that  there  were  no  children  in 
the  neighborhood.  Later  it  was  learned  that  these 
and  all  the  unmarried  girls  ran  and  hid  when  we 
approached  a  village. 

We  could  invite  the  people  on  Sunday,  or  we 
could  go  to  see  them  in  their  homes,  but  to  speak 
to  them  was  a  more  difficult  affair.  There  was  the 
same  difficulty  in  the  language  as  at  Matopo,  but 


MACHA   MISSION  271 

with  a  difference.  There  we  had  a  translation  of 
the  Bible,  dictionaries  and  grammars,  and  could  at 
least  read  the  Word  to  them.  Here  we  were  among 
the  Batonga,  and  their  language,  although  belong- 
ing to  the  same  great  Bantu  family  of  languages, 
was  quite  distinct  from  that  of  Southern  Rhodesia. 
There  were  no  translations,  no  dictionaries,  at  the 
time  the  mission  opened,  so  that  the  task  of  acquir- 
ing it  was  no  small  one.  We  soon  realized  that  we 
had  not  sufficiently  appreciated  our  blessings  in 
Southern  Rhodesia'.  Here  it  was  necessary  to  have 
notebook  and  pencil  continually  on  hand  and  write 
down  the  words  as  they  fell  from  the  lips  of  the 
natives ;  nor  was  it  an  easy  task  to  decide  upon  the 
spelling  of  the  words;  especially  was  there  diffi- 
culty in  distinguishing  the  letters  /  and  r.  The 
same  word  as  it  fell  from  the  lips  of  one  native 
would  seem  to  have  an  /,  and  as  spoken  by  another 
it  would  be  r.  Of  course  there  were  many  similar 
difficulties. 

One  of  our  first  aims  was  to  secure  the  expression 
for  "What  is  that?"  "  Chi  nzl  echo?"  and  with 
that  as  a  basis  the  names  at  least  of  many  things 
could  be  learned.  Then  too  it  is  not  so  difficult  to 
learn  to  use  expressions  common  in  everyday  duties 
and  the  material  things  about  one ;  but  to  secure  a 
suitable  vocabulary  for  instruction  in  the  Gospel  is 
generally  a  difficult  task,  and  missionaries  differ 
widely  in  reference  to  terms  for  spiritual  things. 

The  native  vocabulary  is  by  no  means  meager, 
and  one  is  often  surprised  that  people  living  such 
seemingly  narrow  lives  as  they  do  have  in  constant 
use  such  a  copious  vocabulary.  Their  thoughts  as 


272  AFRICA 

a  rule  can  be  expressed  in  fewer  words  than  in  En- 
glish. For  instance,  they  will  say  bona,  to  see; 
boniva,  to  be  seen;  bzvene,  to  have  seen;  bonana,  to 
see  each  other;  boneka,  to  be  visible;  bonela,  to  see 
for;  and  bonesha,  to  see  clearly,  and  some  verbs 
have  additional  forms.  Again,  in  the  use  of  verbs, 
such  as  go,  they  will  have  different  words  to  express 
various  phases  of  it:  Ya,  to  go;  benda,  to  go  stoop- 
ing, as  after  game ;  fwamba,  to  go  quickly ;  endcnda, 
to  go  for  a  walk ;  ambuka,  to  go  aside,  or  astray ; 
and  so  on  for  eighteen  different  words. 

The  especial  difficulty  of  the  missionary  is  to 
secure  the  proper  words  to  convey  spiritual  con- 
ceptions not  generally  met  with  in  their  comprehen- 
sion ;  such  as,  faith,  holy,  save,  cross,  heaven,  and 
even  in  the  word  for  God  there  is  often  a  difference 
of  opinion  among  missionaries  as  to  the  word  to  be 
used.  Among  all  tribes  there  seems  to  be  a  word 
for  God,  but  the  conception  upon  which  it  is  based 
is  so  degrading  that  one  often  hesitates  to  make  use 
of  it  in  referring  to  the  Holy  and  Omnipotent  One 
Whom  we  have  learned  to  revere.  Two  opinions 
are  prevalent  among  missionaries  in  reference  to 
some  of  the  words.  One  is  to  make  use  of  the  words 
already  found  in  a  language  and  to  seek  to  build  up 
upon  those  words  a  new  conception  altogether  for- 
eign to  the  native  line  of  thought.  Others  think 
that  it  is  better  to  introduce  a  new  word  and  attach 
the  desired  meaning  to  it.  I  think  it  is  safe  to  say 
that  the  former  is  the  method  generally  employed 
among  translators,  but  whether  it  is  in  all  instances 
the  best  method  is  open  to  question. 

Natives  very  quickly  learn  the  language  of  other 


MACHA  MISSION  273 

tribes,  and  so  it  was  in  this  instance.  Our  native 
Christians  soon  acquired  this  language.  A  few  of 
those  working  for  us  could  after  a  manner  speak 
that  "  Esperanto  of  South  Africa,"  "  Kitchen  Kafir," 
and  this  enabled  them  from  the  first  to  understand 
one  another,  in  a  slight  degree  at  least,  and  gave 
them  a  common  basis  from  which  to  pass  to  the 
Tonga  language  proper,  spoken  by  the  people  about 
us.  As  Ndhlalambi,  who  took  the  name  of  David, 
had  felt  the  call  definitely  to  give  the  Gospel  to  these 
people,  and  had  had  experience  in  evangelistic  work, 
both  at  Mapani  and  at  Matopo  Mission,  he  was 
able  in  a  comparatively  short  time  to  give  the  Gospel 
intelligently  to  the  people,  and  also  to  assist  us  in 
acquiring  the  language.  Of  course  this  was  by  no 
means  accomplished  in  a  few  months,  or  even  in  a 
year,  for  it  was  often  difficult  for  even  him  to  secure 
the  proper  words  in  spiritual  language.  These  help- 
ers too  had  their  difficulties  in  the  work,  and  had 
their  misunderstandings  with  the  natives:  One  day 
one  of  them  was  quite  discouraged  in  an  attempt  to 
make  some  natives  understand  properly,  and  he 
exclaimed,  "  I  have  a  great  deal  more  sympathy  with 
the  white  man  now  in  his  endeavors  to  make  the 
people  understand,  and  to  teach  them  how  to  work. 
These  people  seem  so  dull  to  me,  and  I  know  why 
our  masters  became  so  out  of  patience  with  us." 

There  was  at  first  no  attempt  at  opening  school ; 
but  stencils  and  cardboard  had  been  brought  along, 
and  with  these -charts  were  printed  in  the  syllables 
and  sentences  of  the  language  as  nearly  as  we  un- 
derstood it.  Sister  Engle  made  use  of  these  charts 
in  teaching,  by  the  light  of  the  campfire  in  the  eve- 


274  AFRICA 

nings,  the  young  boys  who  had  come  to  work  for 
us.  Our  two  native  helpers  also  continued  their 
studies  and  were  instructed  whenever  there  was 
time  for  it  after  the  buildings  were  completed. 

As  the  first  Christmas  drew  near,  a  query  arose 
as  to  how  it  should  be  observed,  and  whether  serv- 
ices should  be  held,  since  no  one  could  yet  speak 
very  well  the  language.  David  and  Gomo  were 
eager  for  services,  saying  that  they  would  put  forth 
every  effort  to  speak  to  the  people  about  Christ. 
We  longed  to  give  the  people  something  on  that 
day  as  an  expression  of  our  good  will,  but  could  not 
see  the  way  open  to  do  so.  At  Matopo  Mission 
salt  was  always  given,  but  in  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try salt  was  very  expensive  and  there  was  only  a 
little  on  hand,  and  we  were  not  prepared  to  give 
them  meat,  as  we  had  little  opportunity  of  procur- 
ing game  for  ourselves.  Services,  however,  were 
announced  for  the  day,  and  early  in  the  morning 
some  natives  began  to  arrive,  curious  to  know  what 
the  day  was  like. 

In  the  morning  Sister  Engle  and  I  were  sitting 
at  the  table  on  the  veranda,  eating  our  breakfast, 
speaking  of  the  plans  for  the  day,  and  expressing 
a  wish  that  there  was  some  food  to  set  before  the 
people.  While  speaking,  we  heard  a  goat  bleat, 
and  presently  two  natives,  one  of  whom  was  carry- 
ing a  goat  on  his  shoulders,  came  toward  us.  They 
put  the  goat  down  on  the  ground  before  us,  saying 
as  they  did  so,  "  The  Chief,  Macha,  sent  you  this  as 
a  present."  Here  was  the  answer  to  our  wish  and 
unuttered  prayer.  Another  native  headman  a  short 
time  previously  had  also  presented  a  goat,  and  we 


MACHA  MISSION  275 

had  bought  one,  and  these  three  would  be  suffi- 
cient for  the  dinner.  Our  praises  "ascended  simul- 
taneously, and  we  realized  that  the  promise  was 
again  verified,  "Before  they  call,  I  will  answer; 
and  while  they  are  yet  speaking  I  will  hear." 

The  native  brethren  entered  heartily  into  the 
preparations,  and  with  the  assistance  of  the  others, 
they  soon  had  the  animals  killed  and  dressed,  and 
in  the  cooking  kettles.  Fortunately  there  was  corn- 
meal  on  hand  which  also  furnished  sufficient  por- 
ridge. We  rejoiced  as  we  saw  the  people  coming 
that  there  was  food  to  set  before  them,  even  though 
the  Gospel  messenger  could  not  be  given  satisfacto- 
rily; but  there  was  still  a  greater  and  more  blessed 
surprise  in  store. 

There  were  ninety-six  grown  people  assembled, 
chiefly  fathers  and  mothers,  heads  of  families,  and 
these  were  all  seated  along  the  veranda  and  in  the 
shade  of  the  tent.  David  took  up  the  subject  of 
Christmas  and  its  origin  by  first  reading  it  from  the 
Zulu  Testament,  which,  of  course,  they  did  not 
understand.  Before  he  had  read  much  the  Lord 
sent  a  first-class  interpreter,  in  the  person  of  a 
Mutonga  native  who  had  worked  for  some  time  in 
Bulawayo,  and  there  learned  to  read  and  speak  the 
Zulu  language  and  to  understand  the  Gospel.  He 
was  not,  however,  a  Christian,  as  we  learned,  but 
he  proved  a  most  ready  and  excellent  interpreter 
for  the  day ;  and  as  the  message  was  given  in  Zulu, 
he  as  readily  interpreted  it  into  the  vernacular  of 
the  people. 

The  Lord  especially  anointed  our  brother  David 
for  the  message  that  day,  and  he  most  ably  and  feel- 


276  AFRICA 

ingly  presented  the  wonderful  story  of  the  birth  and 
life  of  our  Savior  and  His  great  mission  in  the  re- 
demption of  the  world.  Perhaps  the  unique  op- 
portunity had  some  effect  upon  my  feelings,  but  it 
seemed  to  me  that  I  never  at  any  other  time  heard 
the  subject  so  well  handled  before  a  congregation 
of  natives  as  it  was  on  that  day.  The  native  men, 
especially,  listened  most  attentively  throughout  that 
long  discourse.  Tears  came  into  my  eyes  as  I 
looked  upon  those  seamed  faces  before  me,  those 
middle-aged  and  elderly  men  who,  for  the  first  time 
in  their  lives,  had  an  opportunity  of  hearing  of  Him 
Who  had  come  to  earth  nineteen  hundred  years 
before  to  redeem  them.  How  much  of  the  makani 
mabotu  (glad  tidings)  they  grasped  at  the  time  it  is 
difficult  to  ascertain. 

At  the  close  of  the  discourse  some  of  the  rest  of 
us  spoke  for  a  short  time  on  the  same  theme,  and 
also  explained  the  cause  of  our  being  among  them. 
Then  after  a  hymn  and  prayer  they  were  given  their 
food.  A  bountiful  dinner  had  also  been  prepared 
for  ourselves,  a  portion  of  which  we  handed  over  to 
the  two  helpers  who  had  so  faithfully  labored  to 
make  the  day  a  success.  It  is  needless  to  say  that 
they  too  thoroughly  enjoyed  their  dinner.  In  every 
way  this  first  Christmas  was  one  long  to  be  remem- 
bered, with  nothing  to  mar  the  perfect  harmony  of 
the  occasion. 


CHAPTER   FOUR 
School  Work.     Reinforcements 

UP  to  this  time  nothing  had  been  said  about 
school,    except   that   a    few   boys   had   been 
taught  in  the  evenings.    There  was  no  word 
for  it  in  their  language,  and  learning  had  no  mean- 
ing or  attraction  for  them.     They  only  desired  to 
work  and  earn  money. 

The  first  herdboy  came  before  the  mission  was 
located,  and  to  him  we  gave  the  name  "  Jim,"  as 
we  did  not  fancy  his  native  name.  He  remained 
with  us  three  months  and  then  returned  home  and 
his  cousin  Tom  came  to  herd.  Both  of  these  boys 
manifested  a  great  interest  in  what  they  heard,  and 
Tom  was  the  first  one  to  express  a  desire  to  be  a 
Christian.  Another  little  boy  ran  off  from  home 
one  day  and  begged  permission  to  remain  at  the 
mission.  His  mother  immediately  followed  him  and 
told  him  to  go  home.  He  refused,  and  sitting  down 
by  a  tree  he  put  his  arms  around  it  and  clung  to  it; 
but  the  mother  tore  the  poor  little  fellow  from  the 
tree  and  dragged  him  away.  Aside  from  these,  very 
few  children  made  their  appearance  during  the  first 
five  or  six  months  of  the  mission,  and  no  girls  came 
for  a  much  longer  period  of  time.  The  older  people 
were  friendly  from  the  first,  but  we  often  felt  that 
some  of  them  inspired  their  children  with  a  cer- 
tain amount  of  fear  of  the  newcomers. 
277 


278  AFRICA 

January  1,  1907,  the  people  were  informed  that  we 
wished  to  open  a  school  and  that  they  should  come 
to  learn.  By  this  we  had  in  mind  a  day-school, 
where  the  pupils  would  come  in  the  morning  and 
return  home  at  the  close  of  the  session.  It  had  been 
impossible  to  build  a  schoolhouse,  since  nearly  all 
the  grass  had  been  burnt  off  before  our  appearance 
on  the  scene.  We,  however,  set  up  the  little  tent 
and  built  a  straw  shed  at  one  end  of  it  for  a  tem- 
porary schoolhouse. 

As  school  and  its  advantages  had  no  meaning  to 
the  people,  no  one  came.  Then  too  it  was  the  busi- 
est season  of  the  year.  One,  two,  three  weeks 
passed,  and  still  no  one  desired  to  learn.  January 
passed  and  half  of  February ;  still  no  scholars.  This 
was  a  new  experience.  At  Matopo  the  children 
could  scarcely  wait  until  school  opened,  and  they 
were  the  pioneers  there  and  gradually  drew  the  old- 
er people  to  take  an  interest.  Here  it  was  quite  the 
reverse;  the  children  were  afraid  of  us,  and  would 
run  away,  screaming,  to  hide  in  the  tall  grass  when 
we  approached  their  villages.  What  was  to  be 
done?  As  usual  we  began  to  look  to  the  Source 
that  never  fails. 

The  middle  of  February  it  was  thought  advisable 
to  have  a  week  of  prayer.  All  work  was  laid  aside 
and  the  time  was  spent  by  the  Christians  in  interced- 
ing at  a  Throne  of  Grace,  for  we  felt  that  perhaps 
we  had  been  too  much  occupied  in  temporal  affairs. 
In  the  midst  of  this  week  of  prayer,  on  February 
19,  Macha,  the  chief,  came,  bringing  his  little  boy, 
about  twelve  years  of  age,  and  said,  "  Here  is  my 
son.  I  should  like  to  have  him  stay  with  the  mis- 


MACHA   MISSION  279 

sionaries  and  learn  to  read  and  to  work."  Here  then 
was  a  direct  answer  to  prayer.  The  chief  of  the 
district  had  set  an  example  to  his  people  by  thus 
bringing  his  child.  This  was  a  signal  for  others, 
Apuleni,  another  boy  of  about  the  same  age,  came 
the  next  week,  and  Mafulo  and  Kajiga  followed ; 
also  others.  Jim  and  Tom  came  to  remain  and 
attend  school,  and  by  the  end  of  the  year  there  were 
seventeen  boys  in  all  staying  at  the  mission. 

These  were  nearly  all  boys  from  ten  to  sixteen 
years  of  age ;  a  few  were  older.  None  who  applied 
were  refused  if  they  were  willing  to  abide  by  the 
regulations ;  and  industrial  work  was  at  once  in- 
augurated in  connection  with  the  school.  They 
were  to  be  taught  in  school  three  and  one-half  hours, 
and  work  early  morning  and  afternoon,  receiving, 
in  addition  to  their  food  and  instruction,  some 
clothing,  and  blankets  for  the  night.  They  were  to 
remain  at  least  a  year  before  they  could  take  the 
clothing  home  with  them.  This  stipulation  was 
made  to  teach  them  stability  and  prevent  them  from 
coming  sufficiently  long  to  secure  clothing  and  then 
leaving  before  they  had  properly  earned  it.  The 
arrangement  proved  very  satisfactory.  The  few 
taxpayers  who  entered  the  industrial  school  were 
given  a  small  sum  of  money,  provided  they  com- 
pleted the  time  agreed  upon.  They  always  had 
Saturday  afternoon  as  a  half  holiday,  when  they 
were  to  wash  and  mend  their  clothing  and  have  the 
remainder  of  the  time  for  recreation. 

It  was  always  our  aim  to  make  them  understand 
that  they  were  expected  to  earn  what  they 
received  by  giving  labor  in  return.  We  had  no 


280  AFRICA 

sympathy  with  pupils  who  desired  to  learn  and  lie 
about  and  be  idle  the  rest  of  the  time.  Several  who 
desired  to  bring  their  food  and  remain  at  the  mis- 
sion without  working  were  not  allowed  to  do  so,  as 
we  thought  it  would  prove  detrimental,  both  to 
themselves  and  to  the  rest.  We  preferred  a  dozen 
industrious  and  stable  boys  to  many  times  that 
number  who  were  lazy  and  indifferent.  It  is  true 
some  of  the  smallest  could  scarcely  be  said  to  earn 
their  way  at  first,  but  they  were  at  least  taught 
habits  of  industry.  In  their  homes  many  of  them 
spent  their  time  in  an  indolent  fashion,  their  mus- 
cles being  flabby  and  unused  to  exercise ;  and  often, 
when  they  came  to  us,  they  were  too  lazy  even  to 
play  at  recess.  Gradually  they  brightened  up  and 
took  hold  of  the  tasks  assigned  them.  One  day  one 
of  the  mothers  came  and  inquired  about  her  son,  a 
boy  about  thirteen  years  of  age,  and  she  was  told 
that  he  was  digging  in  the  garden. 

"  Kanyama  digging?"  she  asked,  in  great  sur- 
prise. "  Why,  he  does  not  know  how  to  work." 

The  first  rainy  season  was  quite  pleasant,  and  it 
passed  with  very  little  sickness  among  our  workers. 
It  gave  us  an  opportunity  also  of  learning  some- 
thing of  the  fertility  of  the  soil  on  the  mission  farm. 
Much  of  the  land,  and  especially  that  in  the  valleys, 
was  unusually  productive,  and  the  grass  grew  to  the 
height  of  ten  feet.  Our  aim  was  to  make  use  of  the 
rainy  season  to  instruct  the  boys  in  agriculture  and 
horticulture  and  to  raise  sufficient  grain  and  other 
food  at  least  for  their  consumption ;  and  more  than 
that,  if  possible,  so  that  the  expense  of  keeping  a 
number  of  boys  would  not  rest  so  heavily  on  the 


MACHA   MISSION  281 

mission.  This  first  season  very  little  food  was 
grown,  because  there  had  been  no  land  ready  for 
sowing,  but  the  plow  came  in  January,  and  Gomo 
was  enabled  to  break  two  large  gardens  ready  for 
sowing  the  following  year. 

As  soon  as  the  rainy  season  was  at  an  end,  build- 
ing was  again  undertaken  by  David  and  Gomo,  to- 
gether with  the  assistance  of  the  native  men  and' 
schoolboys.  Thatch  grass  had  to  be  cut  and  poles 


Macha  Mission   Huts,    1907. 

hauled  and  seasoned.  The  Matabele  women  were 
always  eager  to  work  for  cloth,  salt,  or  money,  but 
the  Batonga  women  were  not.  It  was  impossible 
to  make  satisfactory  arrangements  with  them,  either 
to  cut  grass  or  plaster,  so  that  the  men  and  boys 
were  obliged  to  do  this  also  in  connection  with  the 
rest  of  the  building,  and  they  performed  the  work 
very  satisfactorily. 

As  there  was  only  one  small  hut  for  the  school- 
boys, the  first  building  this  second  year  was  a  hut, 


282  AFRICA 

13  x  16  feet,  for  their  occupancy.    Then  a  building 
answering    for    church    and    school    purposes    was 
erected.    This  was  16  x  30  fee..,  with  a  large  veranda 
in  front,  and  was  an  excellent  building  of  the  kind. 
The  seats  were  made  of  bricks,  built  up  in  rows  and 
plastered  over,  and  the  floor  was  made  of  earth, 
pounded    hard    and    plastered.      Another    building, 

14  x  20  feet,  of  poles  and  mud  was  also  built,  and 
was  divided  into  two  rooms.     It  had  a  veranda  all 
around   it.      We    were   expecting   missionaries    out 
from  America,  and  this  last  hut  was  for  their  accom- 
modation.    These  three  buildings  were  all  respect- 
able-looking ones  and  required  a  great  deal  of  time 
and  labor,  so  that  David  and  Gomo  were  very  busy 
and  deserved  much  credit  for  their  efficiency  and 
perseverance.     In  addition  to  the  outside  work  the 
schoolboys  were  instructed  in  sewing,  and  two  of 
them  in  housework. 

The  school  at  first  was  very  poorly  equipped,  as 
we  had  nothing  but  the  homemade  charts  and  a 
few  slates,  and  knew  not  where  our  books  were  to 
come  from,  since  we  did  not  know  the  language  suf- 
ficiently to  make  any.  Some  of  our  needs  in  this  re- 
spect were  also  supplied  later.  In  the  latter  part  of 
1907  Rev.  E.  W.  Smith,  a  missionary  at  Xanzela, 
published  an  excellent  "  Handbook  of  the  Ila  Lan- 
guage." This  was  a  grammar  and  dictionary  com- 
bined, and  the  language  was  closely  allied  to  that 
of  the  Tonga.  We  secured  this  book  about  a  year 
after  we  had  reached  Macha  and  found  it  very  help- 
ful in  acquiring  the  language,  since  the  grammar 
and  many  of  the  words  of  the  two  languages  were 
similar.  He  also  published  in  that  language  an  ex- 


MACHA   MISSION  283 

cellent  first  reader  and  a  book  of  over  one  hundred 
pages  of  Bible  stories.  This  latter  book  is  a  very 
faithful  account  of  Genesis  and  Exodus,  and  con- 
tains some  of  the  more  interesting  parts  of  later  Old 
Testament  history.  Not  long  after,  there  was  also 
published  a  book  of  questions  containing  the  essen- 
tials of  Christian  belief,  and  also  many  quotations 
from  the  Scriptures.  With  the  exception  of  the 
mode  of  baptism  this  was  so  essentially  like  our  own 
faith  that  it  could  be  used  to  excellent  advantage  in 
Inquirers'  Classes. 

All  of  these  books  proved  of  inestimable  value  to 
us  in  school  and  church  work.  The  pupils  in  the 
school  proved  bright  and  studious,  and  before  the 
end  of  this  year  some  had  started  in  the  service  of 
the  Lord. 

It  was  almost  impossible  for  us  to  spend  much 
time  out  among  the  natives  during  the  rainy  season, 
since  the  rivers  were  often  swollen  and  difficult  to 
cross,  and  the  grass  was  high,  rendering  walking 
difficult  and  even  dangerous  on  account  of  savage 
beasts  lurking  about.  It  is  true  we  seldom  saw 
any  of  these  animals,  but  that  they  were  in  the 
vicinity  we  had  no  reason  to  doubt.  Once  when 
David  was  on  top  of  the  church,  putting  on  the 
rafters,  a  native  from  a  neighboring  kraal  called  to 
say  that  three  leopards  were  after  his  sheep.  Our 
boys  all  ran  to  hunt  with  spears  and  clubs,  and  some 
of  them  had  a  glimpse  of  the  animals  as  they  dis- 
appeared in  the  tall  grass.  Another  morning  some 
of  the  men  on  coming  to  work  reported  that  they 
saw  four  lions  crossing  one  of  our  plowed  fields. 
Occasionally  we  would  hear  a  lion  roaring  on  the 


284  AFRICA 

opposite  side  of  the  river,  so  that  there  was  no 
reason  to  doubt  the  presence  of  danger. 

Northwestern  Rhodesia,  -  where  we  found  our- 
selves, is  essentially  the  home  of  wild  and  savage 
beasts  and  game  of  all  kinds.  In  addition  to  smaller 
animals  there  are  the  duiker,  reedbuck,  hartebeest, 
sable  antelope,  eland,  kudu,  and  many  other  vari- 
eties of  game.  The  forests  are  full  of  apes  and 
baboons,  and  the  gnu,  the  zebra,  and  the  buffalo  are 
to  be  found.  The  mammoth  elephant  roams  at  will 
in  herds  or  singly,  the  rivers  are  full  of  crocodiles, 
and  the  larger  ones  abound  in  the  ungainly  hippo- 
potamuses. It  is  the  paradise  of  hunters,  and  many 
avail  themselves  of  the  opportunity  for  sport  thus 
afforded ;  others  for  the  gain  to  be  had  from  ivory 
and  hides. 

The  fact  that  there  was  not  only  game,  but  that 
there  were  also  dangerous  animals  lurking  about, 
may  have  been  the  chief  reason  why  we  never  suc- 
ceeded in  starting  a  day-school  at  Macha.  It  was 
scarcely  safe  for  children  to  go  alone  back  and 
forth  to  school.  Even  men  seldom  traveled  far 
alone,  and  they  always  went  armed.  A  native 
would  carry  three  or  four  assegais,  and  many  were 
supplied  with  guns.  It  is  surprising  how  much 
game  they  managed  to  kill  with  those  old  blunder- 
busses. 

As  stated  previously,  the  presence  of  animals  had 
much  to  do  with  the  amount  of  kraal  visiting  car- 
ried on.  Sister  Engle  and  I  went,  however,  quite 
frequently  after  the  grass  was  burnt  off  in  June, 
accompanied  by  some  of  the  schoolboys.  As  we 
neared  a  village,  our  approach  was  always  heralded 


MACHA   MISSION  285 

by  the  barking  of  dogs  and  the  screaming  of  chil- 
dren as  they  ran  away  to  be  out  of  reach  of  the 
mukua  (white  person).  Every  village  is  supplied 
with  its  quota  of  dogs.  One  day  I  counted  twenty- 
four  in  one  small  village.  Nor  is  their  presence 
unnecessary  in  this  animal-ridden  country,  as  they 
often  succeed  in  driving'  off  ferocious  animals  from 
the  herds,  and  they  help  supply  their  master  with 
game.  They  are,  however,  generally  so  lean  and 
starved  looking  that  one  would  like  to  see  a  "  So- 
ciety for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty  to  Animals " 
among  the  natives. 

It  was  a  long  time  before  we  could  get  a  sight  of 
the  girls  in  the  kraals  around  us.  Once,  in  company 
with  Apuleni,  we  went  to  his  home,  and  here  as 
everywhere  we  were  warmly  welcomed  by  the  older 
people  and  given  an  opportunity  of  telling  them  of 
the  Savior,  as  well  as  our  limited  vocabulary  would 
allow.  While  we  were  sitting  there  talking  to  some 
of  the  older  people,  Sister  Engle  said  she  thought 
there  were  some  girls  in  a  hut  near  by.  I  arose  to 
investigate.  The  older  people  saw  the  move  and 
laughingly  told  the  girls  of  my  approach ;  but  it  was 
too  late  for  them  to  escape.  As  I  reached  the  door 
I  saw  five  girls  in  the  hut,  some  of  whom  were 
nearly  grown.  Some  began  to  scream  and  hide  their 
faces,  and  others  sat  trembling,  not'  daring  to  look 
up.  They  appeared  as  if  they  were  afraid  of  being 
torn  from  their  home  by  violence.  Two  of  these 
were  sisters  of  the  boy  who  accompanied  us.  It 
required  much  tact  and  patience  to  finally  gain  the 
confidence  of  these  wild  children  surrounding  us, 


286  AFRICA 

and  to  help  them  realize  that  we  would  do  them  no 
harm,  but  we  at  last  won  the  day. 

During  this  dry  season  of  1907  word  was  also  re- 
ceived of  a  threatened  native  uprising.  Our  first 
information  of  this  condition  of  affairs  was  received 
from  some  officers  who  had  come  from  the  Trans- 
vaal and  were  passing  through  on  their  way  north 
on  a  hunting  expedition.  They  said  that  they  did 
not  know  how  serious  the  difficulty  was,  except  that 
some  of  the  Europeans  northeast  had  been  ordered 
into  the  government  camp.  The  natives  around  us 
were  quiet  and  law-abiding  and  gave  no  indication 
that  they  were  dissatisfied.  They  themselves  were 
not  of  a  warlike  nature,  and  they  had  in  the  past 
been  harrowed  and  many  of  them  ruthlessly  killed 
by  the  Matabele,  the  Barotse,  and  the  Baila,  each  in 
their  turn,  and  they  were  now  enjoying  peace  and 
quiet  under  the  beneficent  rule  of  the  English.  They 
knew  that  they  would  gain  nothing  by  rebelling 
against  the  English,  and  the  only  condition  that 
would  cause  them  to  rise  would  be  fear  of  their 
powerful  neighbors.  For  this  reason  we  could  see 
no  cause  for  fear.  They  were,  however,  not  igno- 
rant of  the  trouble  in  the  country,  and  confided  to 
David  that  Lewanika  wanted  to  fight.  The  power- 
ful tribe  north  of  us,  the  Baila,  were  probably  as 
dissatisfied  as  any.  David  at  first  did  not  tell  us 
what  he  had  heard,  for  fear  of  alarming  us,  and  we 
too  said  nothing  to  him  at  once.  Later,  however, 
he  told  us  and  we  gave  him  our  information.  The 
danger  at  that  time  seemed  past,  and  we  would 
have  allowed  the  affair  to  rest;  but  it  was  learned 
that  our  fellow  missionaries  were  uneasy  on  our 


MACHA  MISSION  287 

account.  So  we  wrote  to  an  official  at  Kalomo  to 
inquire  if  they  anticipated  a  native  uprising.  He 
wrote,  assuring  us  that  whatever  danger  there 
might  have  been,  there  was  no  more  serious  cause 
for  alarm. 

In  September  of  this  year  a  young  man  from 
Cape  Town  came  to  assist  in  the  work.  He  was  a 
nephew  of  our  friend  and  benefactress,  Mrs.  Lewis, 
and  had  been  impressed  with  the  importance  of 


pressing  on  the  work  into  the  interior;  hence  his 
presence  at  Macha.  He  suffered  so  much  with  fe- 
ver, however,  that  he  concluded  it  was  best  to  return 
south  after  a  stay  of  only  a  few  weeks  at  the  mis- 
sion. 

On  November  10  our  long-looked-for  colaborer, 
Mr.  Myron  Taylor,  reached  Macha.  This  was  a 
welcome  and  much-needed  addition  to  our  number. 
The  new  building  was  ready  for  occupancy,  and 
Brother  Taylor  entered  enthusiastically  into  the 
work  before  him.  He  came  just  at  the  opening  of 


288  AFRICA 

the  rainy  season,  and  perhaps  entered  on  the  work 
with  too  much  vigor ;  for  in  the  latter  part  of  De- 
cember he  was  laid  low  with  the  dread  African 
fever,  and  for  a  time  his  life  was  despaired  of;  but 
the  Lord  raised  him  up.  During  that,  his  first  rainy 
season,  he  had  frequent  relapses  of  the  fever  and 
saw  very  few  well  days  until  the  season  was  at  an 
end.  He  was  not,  however,  discouraged,  but  con- 
tinued at  the  work  whenever  his  health  permitted. 

The  boys  who  came  to  attend  school  remained, 
and  others  also  applied  for  admission,  so  that  by  the 
end  of  this  second  year  there  were  thirty-two  stay- 
ing with  us,  and  they  were  becoming  quite  useful 
in  the  work,  and  best  of  all  were  going  on  to  know 
the  Lord,  and  were  formed  into  an  Inquirers'  Class. 

This  second  rainy  season  was  in  some  respects  a 
repetition  of  the  first,  except  that  there  was  more 
land  under  cultivation,  and  we  ourselves  were  bet- 
ter supplied  with  fresh  vegetables  and  more  nourish- 
ing food,  and  Brother  Taylor  with  his  rifle  could 
furnish  us  with  game.  We  were  at  this  time  be- 
coming more  familiar  with  the  pests  with  which 
we  had  to  contend  in  this  tropical  Africa.  We 
thought  we  had  learned  something  of  the  ravages  of 
the  white  ants,  or  termites,  while  at  Matopo,  but  the 
experience  there  was  nothing  compared  to  that  at 
Macha.  This  is  not  in  any  sense  intended  as  a 
scientific  treatise ;  yet  even  from  a  missionary  point 
of  view  one  needs  to  know  something  of  the  diffi- 
culties in  the  way.  One  cannot  be  long  in  America 
without  realizing  that  the  ordinary  reader  is  woe- 
fully ignorant  of  some  of  the  most  common  experi- 
ences of  the  Africander,  and  in  nothing  is  this  more 


MACHA   MISSION  289 

noticeable  than  in  the  ravages  produced  by  the 
white  ants.  The  species  to  be  found  in  Africa  is 
unlike  that  found  elsewhere  and  is  much  more  de- 
structive. A  knowledge  of  the  presence  of  these 
pests  also  seems  to  help  solve  some  of  the  charac- 
teristics of  the  natives  in  this  section  of  the  country. 

These  white  ants  are  of  various  kinds  and  sizes, 
but  they  are  similar,  in  that  they  build  great  nests 
of  clay  which  extend  above  the  ground  from  one 
or  two  to  twenty  or  more  feet.  These  nests  are 
known  as  ant  hills,  and  in  this  part  of  the  country 
some  of  them  are  not  unlike  hillocks.  They  are  all 
honeycombed  within  and  down  deep  into  the  earth, 
and  are  the  homes  of  the  various  members  of  the 
community,  consisting  of  the  large,  bulky,  wormlike 
white  queen,  an  inch  or  two  in  length,  the  savage, 
warlike  soldiers,  and  the  small,  inoffensive-looking 
workers.  There  are  also  winged  ones  which  leave 
the  earth  in  great  numbers  at  the  opening  .of  the 
season  after  the  ground  has  been  softened  by  the 
rain.  These  soon  lose  their  wings  and  again  enter 
the  ground  at  various  places  to  form  new  colonies. 

The  white  ants  can  work  only  under  cover,  and 
exposure  to  light  and  the  sun  is  generally  fatal  to 
them,  so  they  build  small  clay  tunnels  underneath 
the  ground  or  on  top  where  they  desire  to  work,  and 
through  these  they  pass  to  and  fro,  carrying  par- 
ticles of  food  to  store  it  away.  They  prefer  dry 
food,  such  as  wood,  leather,  paper,  clothing,  straw, 
and  vegetation  as  it  is  becoming  dry,  although  if 
these  articles  are  not  to  be  had  they  have  no  ob- 
jections to  attacking  growing  trees  or  plants.  Many 
trees  in  our  young  orchard  have  been  destroyed  by 


290  AFRICA 

their  ravages.  These  ants  are  to  be  found  all  over 
South  Africa,  but  as  one  approaches  the  equator 
they  are  more  numerous  and  destructive  and  the 
hills  are  larger. 

At  Macha,  boxes,  shoes,  clothing,  everything  had 
to  be  kept  off  the  ground  floor.  If  this  precaution 
was  not  observed,  perhaps  in  a  single  night  a  clay 
coating  would  be  formed  around  the  sole  of  a  shoe 
and  it  would  be  greatly  damaged.  Sometimes  they 
would  find  their  way  up  the  leg  of  a  box  and  begin 
destroying  the  clothing  or  articles  within.  As  I 
came  out  of  my  room  one  morning,  the  noise  of  the 
sentinels  of  the  ants  gave  signal  to  the  workers  of 
the  approach  of  danger.  This  led  to  an  examina- 
tion of  some  bookshelves  which  were  supposed  to 
be  safe  out  of  the  reach  of  the  pests.  Wet  clay  was 
found  to  be  all  along  the  end  of  the  bookcase,  and 
the  end  books  on  each  shelf  were  partly  eaten, 
all  the  work  of  one  night.  Our  bedposts  had  to 
be  put  on  zinc  or  into  old  tin  cans  to  keep  the 
ants  from  making  their  way  to  the  top  and  soiling 
the  bedclothes.  Several  times  they  started  to  build 
an  ant  hill  on  the  floor  of  the  hut,  and  one  morning 
a  small  hill  of  wet  clay  nearly  a  foot  in  height  was 
to  be  seen,  the  result  of  one  night's  labors. 

Nor  did  they  confine  their  ravages  to  the  floor 
and  the  articles  placed  on  the  floor;  walls  and 
grass  roof  were  full  of  them.  No  article  could  be 
hung  on  the  wall  with  safety.  There  was  a  ceiling 
of  muslin  in  the  house,  yet  one  day  Sister  Engle, 
on  going  into  her  room,  found  an  army  of  white 
ants  marching  around  on  the  counterpane  of  her 
bed,  having  fallen  from  a  broken  clay  tunnel  in  the 


MACHA   MISSION  291 

roof.  In  addition  to  these  pests,  we  were  greatly 
annoyed  by  insects  boring  into  the  soft  wood  which 
formed  the  rafters.  During  this  season  the  sound 
made  in  the  quiet  hours  of  the  night  by  these  insects 
sawing  caused  one  to  think  the  entire  hut  was 
alive.  The  ants  would  carry  their  clay  tunnels  into 
the  opening  made  by  the  borers  and  complete  the 
work  of  destruction.  For  a  time  the  ceiling  became 
so  heavy  with  falling  sawdust  and  clay,  that  it  was 


The   Last   Invitation. 

necessary  to  open  it  about  every  two  weeks  and 
remove  the  dust,  which  almost  filled  a  small  tub 
each  time.  Many  more  incidents  might  be  cited. 
We  were  forced  to  admit  that,  at  least  durmg  the 
rainy  season,  a  large  portion  of  our  time  was  oc- 
cupied in  protecting  our  huts  and  goods  from  the 
ravages  of  the  ants. 

Their  work  did  not  stop  with  the  house.  We 
would  think  that  the  grain  and  meal  were  placed 
high  and  secure  out  of  their  reach,  only  to  find  that 


292  AFRICA 

they  had  formed  a  channel  and  destroyed  a  lot  of 
grain.  At  first  when  some  boys  came  for  school 
there  was  no  suitable  place  prepared  for  their  ac- 
commodation, and  they  were  obliged  to  lie  on  the 
floor.  They  would  occasionally  come  and  show 
where  the  cuticle  had  been  removed  from  some 
portion  of  the  body  during  the  night.  In  the  garden 
there  was  also  difficulty  in  protecting  the  growing 
crops.  The  cornstalk  would  be  eaten  off  and  fall 
to  the  ground,  where  the  ants  would  complete  the 
work  of  destruction ;  so  that  from  the  time  corn 
began  to  be  filled  until  it  was  ripe,  it  was  generally 
necessary  to  keep  several  boys  most  of  the  time 
gathering  the  fallen  corn.  Continual  vigilance  was 
needful,  or  in  an  unguarded  moment  something 
about  the  place  would  be  destroyed. 

The  varieties  of  ants  in  the  country  are  many 
and  diverse,  but  we  will  mention  only  one  other 
kind,  to  which  we  were  introduced  during  the  early 
days  of  the  mission.  One  night  some  of  the  boys 
said  they  could  not  sleep  on  account  of  ants  coming 
into  their  hut.  We  supposed  they  referred  to  large 
black  ants,  which  often  came  in  armies  and  made  a 
raid  on  white  ants  to  carry  them  off  for  food.  These 
black  ones  are  very  troublesome  when  disturbed, 
and  the  boys  were  told  to  occupy  another  hut  for 
the  remainder  of  the  night.  Again  the  boys  spoke 
of  being  disturbed  and  showed  some  small,  reddish 
ants  with  vicious-looking  heads,  which  were  march- 
ing in  a  straight  line  through  the  yard.  But  these 
looked  innocent  and  little  attention  was  paid  to 
the  matter.  Then  one  morning  a  hen  and  two 
young  guinea  fowls,  confined  in  a  pen,  were  found 


MACHA   MISSION  293 

to  be  dead  and  covered  with  these  insects.  We  con- 
cluded that  they  had  died  and  the  ants  were  eating 
the  carcass,  but  the  boys  assured  us  that  the  ants 
had  killed  them.  The  pen  was  immediately  burnt, 
together  with  as  many  of  the  ants  as  possible.  An- 
other night  the  sheep  began  to  bleat  most  piteously. 
The  lantern  was  lighted  and  the  boys  called  to  see 
what  was  the  difficulty,  and  while  waiting  for  the 
boys  I  approached  the  pen.  Almost  instantly 
needles  seemed  to  penetrate  my  body  in  various 
places.  I  gave  the  lantern  to  the  boys  to  let  out  the 
sheep,  while  Sister  Engle  and  I  hastened  to  the 
house,  where  she  helped  to  remove  the  vicious  little 
insects.  After  that  experience  there  was  no  further 
question  in  my  mind  as  to  whether  those  ants  could 
kill  fowls  or  other  animals. 

These  are  called  the  army  ants.  Once  it  required 
two  days  for  an  army  of  them  continually  on  the 
march  to  pass  through  our  yard.  Fortunately  we 
have  not  been  troubled  much  with  this  variety  since 
that  time,  but  in  some  parts  of  Africa  they  are  very 
numerous.  Human  bodies  are  sometimes  thrown 
to  them,  and  even  live  ones,  as  a  punishment  in 
supposed  witchcraft. 

We  had  been  in  correspondence  with  some  of  the 
Primitive  Methodist  missionaries  at  Nanzela,  from 
whom  we  had  purchased  books  for  the  school  and 
ourselves ;  and  we  were  eager  to  visit  them  and  learn 
something  of  their  work.  About  the  1st  of  May  we 
arranged  to  make  the  journey  of  sixty  miles  and 
pay  them  a  visit.  Brother  Taylor  was  here  to  take 
charge  of  the  journey,  so  we  took  the  wagon  with 
the  ten  oxen  and  a  number  of  schoolboys,  as  well  as 


294  AFRICA 

David,  leaving  Gomo  in  charge  of  the  mission  dur- 
ing our  absence.  This  was  a  new  and  untried  road 
in  a  northwesternly  direction,  and  required  four 
day  of  hard  traveling  to  make  it.  .On  the  way  we 
occasionally  had  an  opportunity  of  preaching  Christ 
to  the  natives. 

The  kindly  welcome  received  from  Rev.  and  Mrs. 
Price,  who  were  then  at  Nanzela,  more  than  repaid 
us  for  the  tediousness  of  the  journey.  We  spent  a 
most  delightful  four  days  at  their  mission  and 
learned  to  know  something  of  our  neighbors  and 
of  the  work  being  accomplished  at  this  oldest  sta- 
tion in  this  part  of  the  country.  They  were  work- 
ing among  the  Baila,  and  also  some  Barotse  who 
were  living  in  that  section  of  the  country.  The 
trip,  however,  proved  a  most  unfortunate  one  for 
us,  as  we  were  informed  that  we  had  passed  through 
a  small  district  of  the  tsetse  fly  on  the  way.  The 
result  of  this  will  be  given  in  another  chapter. 

On  account  of  the  presence  of  these  pests,  as  well 
as  for  other  reasons,  a  very  common  method  of 
travel  and  transportation  in  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try is  by  native  carriers.  A  native  will  carry  fifty 
pounds  of  goods,  so  that  it  requires  forty  persons  to 
transport  a  ton  of  goods.  This  means  is  employed 
by  officials,  and  it  is  somewhat  more  expeditious 
than  by  wagon.  It  is  often  not  very  satisfactory, 
however,  and  it  is  difficult  to  secure  natives  who 
are  willing  to  carry,  unless  they  are  almost  forced 
into  service.  The  wages  too,  eight  cents  a  day,  is 
small,  but  where  the  tsetse  fly  abounds  this  is  the 
only  safe  method  of  transportation. 


CHAPTER    FIVE 

Additional  Reinforcements.     Preparing  to 
Build 

IN  June,  1908,  we  were  pleased  to  receive  ad- 
ditional reinforcements  in  the  persons  of  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Jesse  Wenger,  who  had  lately  arrived 
from  America  and  felt  called  to  the  work  at  Macha. 
Accompanying  them  were  Elder  and  Mrs.  Steiger- 
wald,  who  came  to  pay  us  a  visit  and  to  see  about 
the  work. 

There  was  now  a  strong  force  of  missionaries  at 
the  place,  and  it  was  thought  that  better  and  more 
permanent  buildings  should  be  erected.  The  mis- 
sion had  been  in  progress  nearly  two  years,  and 
David  and  Gomo  had  been  active  both  dry  seasons 
in  erecting  buildings — and  they  were  good  build- 
ings of  their  kind.  From  what  has  already  been 
given,  however,  of  the  ravages  of  the  white  ants,  it 
can  easily  be  seen  that  such  buildings  were  very 
unsatisfactory  and  of  short  duration.  To  make 
others  of  the  same  kind  would  require  the  mis- 
sionaries to  be  continually  building. 

My  opinion  in  reference  to  missionaries'  houses 
and  surroundings  had  gradually  and  materially 
undergone  a  change  since  I  first  entered  the 
mission  field.  My  firm  conviction  on  entering  had 
been  that  missionaries  should  be  as  approachable 
as  possible,  and  that  they  should  endeavor  to 
295 


296  AFRICA 

get  on  a  level  with  their  people ;  not  in  their 
dirt  and  filth,  not  in  their  ignorance  and  degra- 
dation, but,  leaving  out  these  essentially  objec- 
tionable features,  they  should  seek  to  imitate  as 
much  as  possible  Him  Who  had  no  certain  dwell- 
ing-place and  went  about  doing  good.  He  became 
one  with  the  people  wherever  He  went,  "  Made 
Himself  of  no  reputation,  and  took  upon  Him  the 
form  of  a  servant."  He  of  course  is  the  Great 
Exemplar,  after  Whom  the  missionaries,  His  mes- 
sengers, are  to  pattern.  The  true  missionary  should 
and  does  esteem  it  a  privilege  to  endure  any  neces- 
sary privation  and  hardship  in  the  cause  of  the 
Master  Whom  he  loves  and  seeks  to  imitate.  Oth- 
erwise it  would  be  impossible  to  carry  the  Gospel 
to  the  heathen.  But  our  God  is  a  wise  God,  and 
has  promised  wisdom  to  His  children  and  to  His 
messengers,  which  He  expects  them  to  use  on  the 
mission  field  as  well  as  elsewhere ;  so  that  they  may 
adapt  themselves  to  their  surroundings  and  do  that 
which  will  best  advance  His  Kingdom. 

The  missionary  goes  to  his  field  of  labor.  He 
builds  himself  huts  of  poles,  mud,  and  grass.  He 
does  this  carefully,  that  he  may  protect  himself  from 
the  weather,  the  wild  animals,  and  from  the  mos- 
quitoes which  bring  fever.  He  provides  his  hut 
with  furniture,  manufactured  by  his  own  hand,  so 
that  it  looks  quite  cozy  and  comfortable,  and  the 
poor  natives  as  they  look  inside  may  conclude  that 
if  heaven  is  no  better  than  this,  it  is  at  least  worth 
striving  for.  The  missionary  himself  for  the  time 
feels  quite  satisfied  and  happy  in  his  surroundings 


MACHA   MISSION  297 

and  concludes  that  the  place  is  good  enough  for 
anyone. 

He  opens  his  door  and  invites  his  dear  dark 
friends  to  enter  and  sit  and  talk  with  him — a  priv- 
ilege which  they  greatly  appreciate  and  the  mission- 
ary also  enjoys.  Are  not  these  the  people  for  whom 
Christ  died?  Are  not  these  the  poor  people  to 
whom  he  is  bringing  the  privileges  of  the  Gospel? 
He  loves  to  embrace  every  opportunity  of  getting 
into  their  hearts,  and  he  feels  keenly  everything 
which  separates  and  tends  to  form  a  barrier  be- 
tween them. 

Time  passes,  and  the  rainy  season  comes.  Per- 
haps the  huts  become  damp  and  even  mouldy  in 
places,  and  gradually,  as  the  ants  continue  their 
ravages,  the  walls  crack  and  other  difficulties  arise. 
He  is  forced  to  be  continually  on  his  guard  to  pro- 
tect himself.  Mosquitoes  enter,  and  he  is  incapaci- 
tated for. work,  by  fever  and  other  sickness.  His 
health  becomes  undermined  and  his  appetite  gives 
way.  The  coarse  food  of  the  natives,  if  he  has  been 
using  it,  becomes  distasteful  and  hurtful.  Perhaps, 
if  there  is  no  way  out  of  the  difficulty,  his  life  pays 
the  penalty  and  his  work  on  earth  for  God  and  the 
natives  is  stopped.  This  is  no  fancy  picture.  It 
has  been  repeated  over  and  over  again  in  this 
great  "  White  Man's  Graveyard." 

Suppose,  however,  that  by  taking  plenty  of  qui- 
nine and  having  considerable  vitality  to  start  with, 
he  survives  and  continues  successfully  to  combat 
disease ;  he  soon  finds  that  he  must  build  a  separate 
hut  in  which  to  meet  the  natives,  or  his  house  will 
be  overrun  with  vermin  and  he  cannot  live  in  it. 


298  AFRICA 

His  hut,  too,  soon  becomes  a  hiding  place  for  snakes, 
rats,  and  lizards.  He  may  pick  up  a  piece  of  fur- 
niture and  find  a  cobra  lying  beneath  it,  or  go  into 
the  little  kitchen  and  find  a  deadly  puff  adder  be- 
neath the  cooking  kettle.  Even  if  he  has  in  building 
kept  as  near  to  the  natives  as  possible,  they  are  in 
no  haste  to  get  rid  of  their  filth  and  improve  their 
manner  of  living.  They  have  not  yet  seen  the  ad- 
vantages of  exerting  themselves  to  that  extent, 
unless  they  are  members  of  the  mission  family  and 
compelled  to  wash.  Even  then  they  may  have 
conscientious  scruples  in  reference  to  the  matter, 
as  one  of  our  best  boys  at  Matopo  did.  He  was 
frequently  remonstrated  with  for  not  keeping  his 
clothing  clean.  He  said  that  clean  clothing  made 
him  feel  proud. 

Again,  the  missionary  soon  sees  that  his  hut  is 
going  to  pieces,  and  he  must  go  over  the  laborious 
task  every  two  or  three  years  of  building  another, 
and  at  the  same  time  constantly  fight  the  ants, 
so  that  his  life  is  one  of  long  struggle  with  disease, 
pests,  and  building.  When  and  how  is  he  to  give 
the  Gospel?  He  concludes  that  he  must  make 
brick,  build  a  house,  and  put  on  an  iron  roof,  that  it 
may  be  better  protected  from  the  mosquitoes  and 
furnish  good  rain  water.  He  makes  a  tank,  so 
that  he  may  have  good  drinking  water  instead  of 
the  muddy,  disease-laden  stuff  which  comes  from 
the  river.  It  will  make  more  work  for  a  time,  but 
when  completed  he  sees  some  result  of  his  labor. 

These  reasons,  any  or  all  of  them,  are  sufficient  in 
the  eyes  of  the  missionary  for  building  a  good, 
substantial  house,  but  there  are  other  reasons,  quite 


MACHA  MISSION  299 

as  patent  to  him,  but  they  may  not  be  to  one  who 
has  never  been  in  his  place.  The  natives  like  to 
see  their  missionary  build  good  dwellings,  for  then 
they  think  he  has  come  "to  stay,  and  because  he  has 
come  to  stay  and  is  willing  to  work  and  to  train  the 
natives,  he  sometimes  has  a  better  house  than  some 
of  his  white  neighbors.  And  we  are  loath  to  think, 
as  some  affirm,  that  it  is  a  reproach  to  be  better 
housed,  if  he  himself  builds  it. 

There  is  another  and  more  subtle  reason  for  a 
good  house,  and  one  which  the  writer  could  not  en- 
ter into  until  the  last  few  years.  If  one  has  access 
to  a  town  he  has  an  opportunity  to  see  other 
civilized  places  and  has  a  change  of  scenery  and 
companionship,  which  is  both  interesting  and  bene- 
ficial. Especially  is  this  so  to  one  who  is  continual- 
ly surrounded  with  uncouth  barbarism  in  its  many 
forms.  When,  however,  one  is  far  removed  from 
all  civilized  associations  and  sees  nothing  that  is 
beautiful  and  uplifting,  week  after  week,  month 
after  month,  year  after  year ;  when  all  this  time 
only  dirt  and  squalor  meet  the  eye  as  he  steps  off 
his  own  premises,  his  range  of  vision  becomes  so 
narrowed,  his  brain  so  benumbed  by  the  monotony, 
that  he  feels  he  can  endure  it  no  longer.  He  is  not 
tired  of  his  services  for  the  Master ;  he  is  not  tired 
of  the  dark  faces  surrounding  him ;  but  his  spiritual 
vision  has  become  so  befogged  that,  as  he  rises  before 
the  people  to  give  them  the  message,  he  feels  that 
he  cannot  give  what  he  longs  to.  He  cannot  even 
take  hold  of  God  by  faith  in  prayer  as  he  did,  and 
he  must  get  away  for  a  change. 

But  what   has  this   to   do   with   a   good   house? 


300  AFRICA 

Just  this:  If  one  has  a  good  home  and  pleasant 
surroundings,  good  and  helpful  literature  and  a  few 
of  the  things  which  minister  to  the  aesthetic  as  well 
as  to  the  spiritual  part  of  his  nature,  he  has  a 
change,  at  least,  in  his  own  home,  and  when  he  can 
snatch  time,  from  the  many  duties  which  continually 
confront  him,  for  a  little  quiet,  the  surroundings  are 
pleasing  and  restful.  He  is  then  just  that  much 
better  fitted  to  cope  with  the  opposite  conditions, 
and  he  can  cope  with  them  for  a  longer  time  and 
do  better  work  for  the  Master.  On  the  other  hand, 
missionaries  are  human  and  make  many  mistakes, 
and  we  in  the  mission  field  need  also  to  guard 
against  the  other  extreme  of  spending  too  much 
time  in  beautifying  our  surroundings  and  making 
ourselves  comfortable,  to  the  neglect  of  that  God- 
given  message. 

Even  under  the  best  of  surroundings,  physically, 
the  missionary  has  enough  to  contend  with.  Cir- 
cumstances over  which  he  has  no  control,  diffi- 
culties which  far  outweigh  any  already  mentioned, 
meet  him  on  every  hand.  As  Rev.  Stewart,  of 
China,  says,  "  'Agonia,'  that  word  so  often  on  St. 
Paul's  lips — what  did  it  mean?  Did  it  not  just 
mean  the  thousand  wearinesses,  and  deeper,  the 
stirrings,  the  travailings,  the  bitter  disappointments, 
the  deaths  oft  of  a  missionary's  life?" 

The  natives  often  are  so  indifferent,  so  disin- 
clined to  exert  themselves,  that,  after  months  and 
years  of  weary,  persistent  labor  among  them,  the 
missionary  often  feels  that  little  is  accomplished. 
He  dare  build  hopes  on  none  but  God,  and  must 
accept  seeming  success  or  defeat  as  alike  from  Him. 


MACHA   MISSION  301 

This  continual  drain  on  his  system  is  quite  suffi- 
cient, without  having  to  combat  with  poor  dwell- 
ings, poor  food,  and  unhealthful  surroundings. 

After  the  Brethren  came,  they  concluded  to  start 
at  once  to  make  the  preparations  for  building. 
Elder  Steigerwald  had  had  experience  in  this  line 
of  work,  so  he  generously  offered  to  start  the  rest 
in  brickmaking.  After  a  few  weeks'  visit  he  and 
Sister  Steigerwald  returned  home  and  Sister  Engle 
decided  to  accompany  them  for  a  change.  David 
and  Gomo  also  had  been  absent  from  their  people 
for  two  years  and  wished  to  return,  the  former  for 
a  visit  and  the  latter,  perhaps  permanently.  We 
were  very  sorry  to  see  all  these  leave  at  once,  even 
for  a  few  months,  and  especially  David,  whose  as- 
sistance in  the  language  and  in  interpretation  was 
greatly  needed. 

The  Brethren  Taylor  and  Wenger,  with  the  as- 
sistance of  the  schoolboys  and  some  other  natives, 
moulded  and  burnt  a  large  kiln  of  brick.  Brother 
Taylor  attended  to  the  moulding  and  Brother 
Wenger  to  building  the  kiln.  This  gave  the  boys 
training  in  another  line  of  industrial  work,  and  at 
the  end  of  about  six  weeks  a  lot  of  excellent  brick 
were  ready  for  building.  Unfortunately  there  was 
no  money  on  hand  to  build  a  house,  for  the  Board 
had  not  been  informed  of  our  needs  in  this  respect, 
since  brickmaking  had  been  undertaken  rather  sud- 
denly. It  was  therefore  necessary  to  postpone 
building  a  house  until  the  next  dry  season.  Brother 
Wenger,  however,  erected  two  small  brick  buildings, 
with  thatched  roofs.  One  was  for  grinding  and  stor- 
ing grain,  and  the  other  a  two-roomed  cottage.  In 


302  AFRICA 


Making  Brick  at  Macha. 


Brick  Kiln,     Mr,  Jesse  Wenger  and  Helpers, 


MACHA  MISSION  303 

the  latter  a  room  was  fitted  up  for  the  occupancy  of 
himself  and  wife,  so  that  we  were  prepared  for  an- 
other rainy  season. 

One  thing  which  was  a  serious  handicap  in  the 
building  and  work  that  season  was  the  condition  of 
the  oxen.  After  our  return  from  Nanzela,  in  May, 
the  oxen  gave  no  indication  of  being  bitten  by  the 
tsetse  fly.  Nearly  a  month  later  they  were  driven 
to  Kalomo,  a  distance  of  about  forty-five  miles,  and 
brought  out  a  heavy  load  of  goods  on  the  arrival  of 
our  colaborers.  They  were  also  made  use  of  in 
hauling  sand  for  brickmaking;  and  in  July,  when 
Brother  Steigerwalds  returned  home,  they  were 
again  driven  to  the  station.  This  time  they  made 
use  of  a  new  road  and  went  east  to  Choma  Station, 
a  distance  of  only  about  thirty-six  miles.  By  this 
time  the  oxen  were  showing  signs  of  being  bitten, 
and  as  there  was  no  cure  for  them,  they  gradually 
became  weaker  and  died,  one  by  one,  until  we  had 
lost  nine,  the  last  ones  not  dying  until  about  six 
months  after  they  were  bitten.  The  fly  injects  a 
parasite  into  the  blood,  which  gradually  absorbs  the 
red  corpuscles,  hence  the  lingering  death. 

It  was  a  serious  loss  to  the  mission  at  the  time,  as 
they  had  been  in  use  almost  constantly  in  farming, 
hauling,  and  bringing  out  supplies.  In  the  Syracuse 
plow  it  was  necessary  to  use  all  ten  of  the  oxen  in 
this  heavy  clay  soil,  and  also  in  hauling  the  wagon. 

We  still  had  a  few,  but  there  was  not 
sufficient  money  on  hand  to  purchase  others  at 
once.  With  eight  ill-matched  oxen,  Brother  Taylor 
undertook  to  go  to  Choma  in  November  for  the 
purpose  of  bringing  out  a  six  months'  supply  of 


304  AFRICA 

goods  and  provisions,  which  had  been  sent  up  from 
Bulawayo.  He  took  along  five  of  the  largest  school- 
boys to  assist  in  carrying  the  goods  across  the 
bridgeless  rivers.  To  add  to  the  difficulty  of  the 
trip,  grass  was  scarce  at  that  season  of  the  year, 
so  that  there  was  little  food  for  the  oxen.  A  little 
rain  also  fell  while  he  was  away  and  made  the  road 
muddy. 

On  returning  with  the  load  he  was  able  to  get 
within  twelve  miles  of  home  when  the  oxen  could 
go  no  farther.  He  sent  four  of  the  boys  each  with  a 
load  of  goods  to  the  mission,  and  a  call  for  help. 
Several  native  men  and  about  twenty  schoolboys 
were  sent  to  his  assistance,  and  after  they  reached 
the  wagon,  Brother  Taylor  concluded  to  endeavor 
to  come  a  little  nearer  home  before  resting  for  the 
night.  Each  of  the  natives  carried  a  load,  and  he 
himself  carried  one  hundred  pounds  of  flour  and 
drove  the  oxen.  They  came  about  two  and  one-half 
miles  farther  and  then  camped  for  the  night.  A 
fire  was  kindled,  but  as  the  night  was  dark  and 
misty  the  fire  burned  low.  The  boys  lay  around 
this  and  Brother  Taylor  on  the  open  wagon.  He 
was  aroused  several  times  during  the  night  by  a 
disturbance  among  the  oxen.  Thinking  it  was 
caused  by  one  of  the  new  oxen  which  had  given  him 
some  trouble,  he  arose  at  three  different  times  dur- 
ing the  latter  part  of  the  night  to  quiet  them,  but 
the  darkness  was  too  great  for  him  to  see  what  was 
the  trouble.  The  last  time  it  was  dawning  a  little 
in  the  east,  and  he  thought  he  discerned  the  form 
of  an  animal  moving  toward  an  ant  hill  in  the 
vicinity.  The  boys  were  aroused  and  soon  had  a 


MACHA   MISSION  305 

fire;  and  as  the  morning  came  they  discovered  by 
the  spoors  that  two  lions  had  passed  along  within 
a  few  feet  of  where  the  boys  lay  and  had  gored  one 
of  the  oxen  during  the  night.  These  were  what 
Brother  Taylor  had  been  trying  to  chase.  The 
reader  can  imagine  the  thankfulness  of  all  of  them, 
as  well  as  of  ourselves,  when  it  was  discovered  how 
wonderfully  the  Lord  had  preserved  them  all  from 
harm.  We  rejoiced  when  the  goods  as  well  as 
Brother  Taylor  and  the  boys  were  all  safely  at 
home,  but  the  heavy  wagon  had  to  remain  for  a 
time  on  the  veldt  before  it  could  be  brought  to  the 
mission. 

When  the  news  of  the  misfortune  to  the  oxen 
reached  America  the  Lord  inspired  some  of  His 
children  to  send  special  donations  for  the  purchase 
of  others,  and  even  before  an  account  of  the  trouble 
had  reached  there  some  had  heard  of  the  need  by 
way  of  the  Throne  and  had  sent  money. 


CHAPTER   SIX 

Evangelistic  and  Other  Labors 

DURING  this  dry  season  the  spiritual  part  of 
the  work,  together  with  school  and  kraal- 
visiting,   was   not   neglected,   even   though 
most  of  those  who  could  speak  the  language  were 
away. 

There  were  thirty-two  boys  in  school,  and  they 
were  doing  good  work.  A  translation  of  the  Gospel 
of  St.  Mark  had  been  printed  by  Rev.  Smith,  and 
an  Ila  hymn  book  by  Rev.  Chapman,  of  the  same 
mission,  and  these  were  both  very  useful  in  our 
work.  After  our  boys  had  finished  the  Ila  books, 
we  concluded  to  allow  them  to  continue  the  Scrip- 
tures in  the  Zulu  Testament,  as  it  is  always  easier 
for  the  natives  to  pass  from  one  native  language 
into  another  than  from  English  into  their  language. 
We  found  later  that  this  use  of  the  Zulu  Testament 
proved  very  satisfactory,  both  to  ourselves  and  the 
boys.  Since  we  were  familiar  with  that  language, 
and  they  readily  acquired  it,  their  knowledge  was 
of  great  assistance  to  us  in  translating  portions  of 
the  Scripture  into  their  tongue,  and  they  were  soon 
capable  of  interpreting  for  Elder  Steigerwald  and 
others  who  came  to  us  from  Southern  Rhodesia. 
Here,  as  at  Matopo,  every  day  and  all  the  day  were 
the  Scriptures  studied  and  Christ  held  up,  and 
morning,  noon,  and  night  we  met  in  worship  and 
306 


MACHA  MISSION 


307 


explanation  of  the  Bible.  The  great  aim,  both  in 
school  and  out,  was  to  produce  sincere  and  ripe 
Christians,  who  should  become  teachers  and  evan- 
gelists of  their  people. 

Other  studies  were  gradually  introduced.  Arith- 
metic seems  to  be  always  a  difficult  study  for  most 
of  them,  but  some  of  them  compared  very  favorably 
in  that  branch  with  others  whom  we  had  instructed. 


g   House. 


They  had  their  own  peculiar  way  at  first  of  an- 
nouncing whether  their  problems  were  correct  or 
not.  If  they  were  correct  the  pupils  would  answer 
"  Wa  pona"  (it  is  alive),  and  if  incorrect  they 
would  say  "Wa  fwa"  (it  is  dead).  'Although  they 
sat  side  by  side  in  the  school-room  and  could  easily 
look  on  the  slates  of  their  neighbors,  they  were 
generally  very  honest  and  independent  in  their  work 
and  did  not  attempt  to  copy. 


308  AFRICA 

English  also  was  introduced  after  they  could 
read  understandingly  their  own  language.  The 
opportunity  of  learning  English  is  a  privilege  which 
all  natives  covet,  as  it  seems  to  be  more  important 
in  their  eyes  and  more  European.  In  some  respects 
this  importance  is  one  of  the  objectionable  features 
about  teaching  it.  Then  too  the  native  often  is  dull 
in  learning  it,  but  we  need  interpreters,  and  the 
value  intellectually  of  this  and  arithmetic  and  kin- 
dred studies  is  not  to  be  despised.  English  often 
aids  the  native  in  securing  better  positions  with 
better  pay  when  he  goes  to  work  among  the  Euro- 
peans ;  for  go,  at  least  for  a  while,  he  will.  Some 
Europeans  prefer  natives  who  can  speak  and  under- 
stand a  little  English.  On  the  other  hand,  some 
white  men,  who  have  themselves  a  little  knowledge 
of  the  native  tongue,  prefer,  for  their  own  purpose, 
that  natives  do  not  understand  English.  They 
want  the  native  to  understand  only  enough  to  go 
at  their  bidding  and  "  keep  his  place,"  which  is 
somewhat  similar  in  their  eyes  with  the  lower  order 
of  animals.  This  class  is  forever  a  foe  to  the  mis- 
sionary and  to  the  education  and  christianization  of 
the  natives.  If  one  who  has  to  some  extent  been 
educated,  goes  out  into  the  centers  of  civilization 
and  there,  swallowed  in  the  maelstrom  of  vice 
which  surrounds  him,  imitates  his  new  white  teach- 
ers, they  will  point  to  him  and  say,  "  Yes,  there  is 
one  of  your  mission  boys.  That  is  what  missionary 
work  does."  Many  a  well-meaning  native,  who 
was  making  a  fair  progress  toward  Christian  life, 
can  trace  his  downfall  to  such  teachers.  If  that 
class  of  Europeans  would  remain  at  the  centers  of 


MACHA   MISSION  309 

civilization,  it  would  still  be  more  tolerable  for  the 
missionary,  but  often  the  towns  are  too  moral  for 
them,  and  they  seek  to  go  into  the  region  of  raw 
natives.  As  one  glibly  remarked,  "  When  it  be- 
comes too  civilized  for  me  here,  I'll  go  farther  in- 
land." 

Mr.  Naylor,  who  has  had  an  opportunity  of 
studying  at  first  hand  the  work  all  over  Africa, 
says,  "  In  Africa  conscienceless  trade,  social  vice, 
race  hatred,  and  religious  intolerance  have  freer 
scope  because  so  far  removed  from  the  restraining 
influence  of  Christian  public  sentiment." 

This  seeming  digression  from  the  subject  can  be 
excused  only  on  the  ground  that  it  is  one  of  the 
most  difficult  and  perplexing  problems  the  mission- 
ary has  to  face,  and  every  one  coming  into  the 
country  in  such  a  capacity  is  certain  to  meet  it  in 
one  form  or  another.  We  are  pleased  to  add,  how- 
ever, that  the  missionary  also  finds  Europeans  who 
are  generous  and  helpful  and  favorable  to  the  work ; 
and  the  number  of  this  class  is  increasing,  as  the 
aim  of  the  missionary  and  the  results  of  his  efforts 
are  more  clearly  understood. 

The  attendance  at  church  services  was  constant- 
ly increasing,  and  those  present  on  Sunday  some- 
times reached  140  in  number.  Kraal-visiting  also 
was  carried  on  as  opportunity  afforded.  Before 
Sister  Engle  left  we  had  made  a  visit  to  Mianda, 
the  home  of  Tom  and  Jim  and  of  several  other  of 
our  boys.  This  was  about  seven  miles  from  Macha 
and  too  far  for  some  of  the  older  people  to  walk  to 
services.  As  the  boys  were  still  with  us,  those  in 
the  kraal  had  not  yet  received  any  light.  They  ap- 


310  AFRICA 

peared  to  be  much  pleased  to  see  us,  but  when  we 
attempted  to  point  them  to  the  Savior  they  seemed 
so  dark  and  so  unable  to  grasp  spiritual  things. 
This  was  especially  true  of  Tom's  mother,  who  sat 
in  a  little  dark  hut  and  was  afflicted  with  a  very 
sore  eye.  She  had  such  a  hopeless  expression  on 
her  face,  that  the  picture  haunted  us  for  many  days 
afterwards. 

When  Tom,  who  had  accepted  the  Light  as  far  as 
he  knew,  had  been  at  the  mission  fifteen  months, 
he  desired  to  return  home,  and  did  so.  A  few 
months  after  he  had  returned  to  his  home,  one 
day,  in  company  with  two  of  the  schoolboys,  I 
went  about  four  miles  from  the  mission  to  visit 
some  of  the  people.  Quite  unexpectedly  we  came 
upon  Tom's  mother  in  one  of  the  huts.  She  was 
there  visiting  some  of  her  friends.  As  usual,  I 
began  telling  her  of  Jesus,  and  her  face  brightened 
immediately  as  she  exclaimed : 

"Oh,  yes!  Siwesi  [Tom]  told  me  that.  He  said 
we  should  not  worship  the  spirits  any  more ;  we 
should  only  worship  God  above  [pointing  upward]. 
He  reads  from  his  Book  and  sings  and  prays.  I 
enjoy  hearing  of  those  things."  This  woman  had 
never  been  at  the  mission,  and  this  was  the  first 
indication,  apart  from  the  boys  staying  with  us, 
that  we  had  of  Light  entering  the  home.  Her  eager- 
ness and  evident  sincerity  showed  plainly  that  she 
believed  and  was  accepting  the  truth,  and  that  the 
Light  was  coming  through  one  of  the  schoolboys. 
The  contrast  between  this  picture  and  the  first  sight 
of  this  woman  was  so  marked,  and  the  joy  of  realiz- 
ing that  a  ray  of  Light  was  entering  one  home  at 


MACHA  MISSION  311 

least,  was  so  great,  that  as  I  retraced  my  steps 
homeward  I  kept  saying  to  myself,  "  It  pays,  it 
pays." 

Brother  Taylor  felt  especially  called  to  spend  his 
time  in  evangelistic  work  among  the  villages,  and 
whenever  he  could  snatch  time  from  other  duties 
pressing  upon  him  he  went  out  among  the  people, 
and  in  this  manner  a  number  of  villages  were  vis- 
ited. 

Many  of  the  people  at  this  time  were  destitute 
of  food,  as  the  previous  season  had  not  produced 
good  crops.  Many  of  them  were  living  on  fruits, 
roots,  and  plants,  and  much  sickness  was  the  re- 
sult. With  our  large  family,  and  only  a  moderate 
supply  of  grain,  we  were  unable  to  give  them  much 
assistance,  but  we  did  what  we  could.  Had  they 
been  willing  to  bring  their  small  children  to  us  we 
would  have  cared  for  them  until  other  food  was 
grown.  One  mother  did  bring  her  little  boy,  Hali- 
kumba,  who  was  four  or  five  years  of  age  and  nearly 
starved.  He  enjoyed  his  new  home  so  much,  and 
the  abundance  of  food  it  supplied,  that  he  would 
run  and  hide  if  he  saw  his  mother  come  for -fear 
she  would  take  him  away.  He  was  such  a  little 
mite  of  humanity  that  we  were  afraid  of  placing 
him  in  the  huts  with  the  other  boys,  and  for  a  time 
cared  for  him  in  the  house. 

David  returned  to  Macha  in  January,  1909,  ready 
to  enter  again  with  enthusiasm  into  the  work,  and 
Brother  Taylor  concluded  that  the  way  was  now 
opened  for  him  to  spend  additional  time  in  evan- 
gelistic labor,  so  he  decided  to  take  several  boys 
and  spend  some  time  among  the  Baila  north  of  us. 


312  AFRICA 

This  is  a  bold  and  warlike  tribe,  living  in  large 
villages,  and  much  addicted  to  drink,  dancing,  and 
carousals.  Rows,  and  even  murders,  are  not  infre- 
quent among  them,  and  it  required  some  courage 
to  venture  into  their  territory.  The  Lord  gave  the 
Brother  open  doors,  however,  and  some  attentive 
listeners,  and  we  believe  seed  was  sown  that  will 
bear  fruit  in  eternity. 

He  had  some  difficulties  to  encounter,  which  were 
not  so  pleasant.  It  is  a  low,  flat  country ;  and  as 
he  was  there  in  the  midst  of  the  rainy  season,  heavy 
rains  flooded  the  country  on  all  sides,  so  that  he 
was  frequently  obliged  to  wade  the  water  in  going 
from  one  village  to  another.  After  two  months  of 
arduous  labor,  his  health  gave  way  and  he  was 
carried  back  sick  to  the  mission.  It  required  some 
time  before  he  fully  recovered  from  the  exposure 
and  hardships  of  the  trip. 

These  experiences  are  not  pleasant,  but  they  are 
incidental  to  the  country,  and  every  missionary 
feels  that  he  should  be  ready  at  all  times  to  endure 
for  Christ's  sake  and  the  salvation  of  souls  what 
men  are  going  through  every  day  for  money  or  a 
home. 

Brother  Wenger  also  had  been  suffering  greatly 
in  health  while  at  the  mission,  both  from  nervous 
disorders  and  from  fever.  Notwithstanding  this,  he 
decided  to  begin  building  a  house,  since  the  rains 
were  about  over  and  funds  had  been  received  for 
this  purpose.  David  also  was  ready  to  help  in  the 
work.  With  the  assistance  of  the  boys  they  brought 
together  stones  and  began  the  foundation.  Near 
the  mission  there  were  very  few  building  stones, 


MACHA   MISSION  313 

but  this  need  had  been  supplied  in  a  rather  unex- 
pected manner.  The  brethren  had  undertaken  to 
dig  a  well  the  previous*  season,  but  on  coming  into 
contact  with  a  great  deal  of  stone,  which  necessi- 
tated blasting,  they  went  down  only  forty-five  feet 
and  finally  concluded  the  task  was  useless.  The 
only  beneficial  result  of  their  labors  was  the  stones 


Eld.   Steigerwald  and   Mr.   Doner  with   Carriers 
on   Their   Trip   North    of  Macha. 

which  had  been  taken  out  of  the  well,  and  which 
furnished  a  large  part  of  the  material  for  the  founda- 
tion of  the  house. 

Brother  Wenger  laid  the  foundation  of  a  house 
41  x  16  feet,  with  a  wing  18  x  10  feet,  and  began 
work  on  the  brick.  Unfortunately,  while  this  was 
in  progress,  his  health  gave  way  repeatedly,  and  he 
and  Sister  Wenger  concluded  that  it  was  advisable 
for  them  to  leave  for  Bulawayo  and  finally  for 
America,  and  David  continued  to  work  at  the  house. 
Brother  Taylor  had  sufficiently  recovered  from  his 
illness  by  this  time  to  be  able  to  take  the  Wengers 


314  AFRICA 

to  the  station.  He  then  waited  there  a  few  days 
for  the  train  from  the  south,  and  brought  back  with 
him  Elder  Steigerwald,  Mr.  Doner,  Miss  Engle,  and 
Gomo,  all  of  whom  we  were  expecting. 

He  was  absent  from  the  mission  eight  days,  and 
during  that  time  I  had  an  attack  of  fever  and  was 
obliged  to  be  in  bed  for  a  week.  This  was  my  first 
attack,  and  as  it  was  quite  severe,  it  enabled  me  to 
sympathize  better  with  those  who  had  been  sick 
so  much.  We  were  very  glad  to  welcome  Sister 
Engle  and  the  rest  back  to  work.  The  two  brethren 
from  Bulawayo  were  on  a  tour  of  exploration  north, 
but  they  generously  decided  to  stay  and  assist 
Brother  Taylor  to  finish  the  brick  work  of  the  new 
house.  This  timely  assistance  was  greatly  appre- 
ciated by  us  all,  and  that  part  of  the  building  was 
completed  in  two  weeks,  after  which  they  proceeded 
north. 

The  special  object  of  their  trip  was  to  look  at  a 
location  north  of  the  Kafue  River,  where  a  mission- 
ary had  died  not  long  before.  This  missionary  had 
started  a  work. in  this  unhealthy  region,  and  his  life 
had  paid  the  penalty.  Some  friends  of  his,  notably 
Mrs.  Lewis,  of  Cape  Town,  had  desired  our  people 
to  examine  the  place,  and,  if  thought  advisable,  to 
continue  the  wrork,  and  Brother  Doner  was  willing 
to  do  this  if  they  concluded  that  the  opening  was  a 
good  one. 

They  made  the  journey  on  foot,  accompanied  by 
Matshuba  and  native  carriers  from  the  vicinity  of 
Macha.  They  passed  through  the  very  heart  of 
the  territory  occupied  by  the  wild  Baila,  and  visited 
the  new  station  at  Kasenga,  which  had  just  been 


MACHA   MISSION  315 

opened  by  Rev.  Smith.  He  and  his  heroic  wife  had 
started  this  station  in  the  heart  of  the  Baila  coun- 
try and  in  an  unhealtriful  locality,  not  considering 
their  lives  dear  unto  themselves,  only  that  they 
might  take  the  Gospel  to  these  people  and  con- 
tinue the  translation  of  the  New  Testament,  which 
Mr.  Smith  had  already  begun. 


Crossing  the  Kafue  River  in  a  Native  Dugout. 

Near  this  place  the  brethren  crossed  the  broad 
Kafue  River  and  proceeded  in  a  northwesternly  di- 
rection toward  the  railroad.  They  found  the  mis- 
sion station  and  the  place  where  the  missionary  had 
died,  and  heard  some  of  the  children  sing  a  hymn 
which  the  missionary  had  taught  them.  They  were 
not  very  well  satisfied,  however,  with  the  location, 
and  returned  to  Macha  by  a  different  route.  They 
traveled  on  foot  a  distance  of  perhaps  250  miles, 
and  were  absent  from  Macha  a  month.  They  could 
not  understand  the  language  and  had  some  trying 
experiences  from  wild  animals  and  wilder  men,  but 


316  AFRICA 

the  Lord  graciously  preserved  them  from  all  harm. 
They  then  returned  to  Bulawayo  to  continue  their 
labors. 

In  the  meantime  Brother  Taylor,  with  the  aid  of 
the  native  brethren,  was  progressing  very  satis- 
factorily with  the  house.  It  contained  four  fair- 
sized  rooms  and  a  pantry,  and  had  a  broad  veranda 
on  three  sides  to  protect  the  walls  from  deteriora- 
tion by  sun  and  rain.  These  walls  were  twelve  feet 
high,  with  a  drop-ceiling  of  muslin  two  feet  below 
the  eaves,  to  serve  as  a  protection  from  the  fierce 
rays  of  the  sun  and  to  furnish  an  air  chamber.  On 
top  of  the  foundation  and  underneath  the  brick  walls 
were  placed  strips  of  zinc,  soldered  together,  to 
prevent  the  white  ants  from  forcing  their  way 
through  into  the  walls  and  thence  onto  the  timbers 
of  the  .roof.  The  floors  were  of  earth,  pounded  hard 
and  well  tarred  to  keep  out  the  ants.  The  large 
glass  windows,  were  quite, a  relief  from  the  small 
holes  in  the  old  house.  Later  the  windows  and  the 
greater  part  of  the  veranda  were  screened.  The 
house  was  in  every  way  most  satisfactory,  except 
that  it  was  not  quite  proof  against  the  white  ants. 
Cement  floors  and  steel  ceilings  would  have  been 
preferable,  but  the  cost  was  prohibitive. 

Sister  Engle's  return  gave  us  an  opportunity  of 
continuing  the  kraal-visiting,  and  we  made  use  of 
it  in  gaining  an  entrance  into  other  homes.  At  Ka- 
banzi  village,  about  nine  miles  away,  services  had 
been  held  more  or  less  regularly  ever  since  the 
establishment  of  the  mission,  and  Sister  Engle  and 
I  decided  to  take  the  tent  and  spend  a  week  at  this 
place  and  hold  some  Gospel  services.  Gorno  and  a 


MACHA   MISSION 


317 


318  AFRICA 

number  of  the  boys  accompanied  us  and  built  a  hut 
for  the  use  of  those  coming  here  to  conduct  serv- 
ices. This  week  spent  among  the  people  was  a 
most  delightful  one,  and  beneficial  physically,  espe- 
cially to  myself,  since  I  was  feeling  the  effects  of 
my  three  years'  stay  in  this  climate.  The  people 
attended  the  services  well,  and  seemed  greatly  in- 
terested as  they  sat  around  the  campfire  and  lis- 
tened to  the  Message. 

In  other  homes  too  there  was  beginning  to  be  a 
change,  for  the  girls  were  coming  out  of  their  se- 
clusion and  listening  to  the  old,  old  Story,  and  some 
were  even  venturing  to  the  mission  on  Sunday. 
Some  of  the  older  people  also  appeared  interested, 
and  made  a  show  at  least  of  desiring  to  be  Chris- 
tians. 

This  does  not  imply  that  the  kraals  around  us 
were  fast  accepting,  the  Gospel  as  a  result  of  the 
three  years'  labor  among  them.  No,  the  devil  was 
plying  his  trade  at  our  very  doors.  Almost  nightly 
one  could  hear  the  tomtoms  beaten  in  connection 
with  their  worship,  or  as  an  accompaniment  in  their 
immoral  dances;  for  none  of  their  worship  was 
omitted  by  the  older  ones,  at  least  in  their  homes. 
The  missionary  work  was  just  begun,  and  perhaps 
none  of  the  present  workers  would  live  to  see  the 
day  when  these  things  would  cease  in  the  villages. 
The  false  religions  and  customs  which  have  been 
so  deeply  imbedded  for  centuries  would  require 
patient,  consecrated  labor  for  years,  and  even  gen- 
erations, to  uproot.  One  must  be  willing  to  go  on, 
day  by  day,  although  he  may  see  little  or  no  fruit 


MACHA   MISSION 


319 


of  his  labors,  knowing  that  the  Great  Husbandman 
will  care  for  the  seed  sown. 

The  work  thus  far,  however,  had  not  been  with- 
out its  visible  fruits,  as  the  stability  of  some  of  our 
boys  gave  ample  testimony.  The  number  staying 
at  the  mission  had  now  grown  to  forty.  These  were 
some  of  the  called-out  ones  from  the  various  kraals 


First    Baptismal    Scene    at    Macha.      Native 
Congregation   Not   Visible. 

about  us.  Each  had  sent  its  quota,  and  although 
some  had  come  and  gone,  the  great  majority  stayed 
on  from  year  to  year.  As  the  Light  came  to  them 
they  came  and  confessed  their  sins,  forsook  their 
old  life  and  accepted  Christ  as  their  Savior,  show- 
ing by  their  lives  that  they  were  His.  Some  of 
these  were  about  grown ;  others  were  still  quite 
young,  but  we  hoped  to  see  the  day  when  some  of 


320  AFRICA 

them   would   become   teachers   and   evangelists   of 
their  people. 

Word  had  been  received  that  Elders  J.  N.  Engle 
and  J.  Sheets  were  to  be  sent  out  by  the  Mission 
Board  to  visit  the  various  stations  and  report  on 
the  progress  of  the  work.  In  November,  1909,  just 
after  we  had  moved  into  the  new  house,  they,  to- 


gether with  Elder  Steigerwald,  came  to  pay  us  the 
long-looked-for  visit.  Their  visit  was  greatly  en- 
joyed and  we  believe  was  a  blessing  to  the  work  of 
the  Lord.  To  Brother  Sheets  the  boys  gave  the 
name  "  Happy,"  no  doubt  because  he  frequently 
used  the  word  and  also  showed  it  in  his  manner. 
Two  important  events  occurred  during  their  stay, 
which  deserve  special  mention. 


MACHA  MISSION  321 

The  first  was  the  marriage,  on  November  4,  of 
Mr.  Taylor  and  Miss  Adda  Engle.  The  natives 
were  invited  to  this  ceremony,  and  about  350  ac- 
cepted the  invitation.  Several  chiefs  came  with 
their  people  and  arranged  themselves  in  groups, 
eager  to  see  what  a  Christian  wedding  was  like. 
The  marriage  ceremony  was  performed  by  Bishop 
Engle,  who  was  a  son  of  the  first  bishop  to  Matopo 
Mission,  and  also  a  cousin  of  the  bride.  Bishop 
Steigerwald  delivered  an  excellent  and  instructive 
discourse  to  the  natives  on  the  importance  of  the 
occasion  and  the  tenets  of  Christian  marriage.  This 
was  interpreted  into  the  vernacular  by  David  and 
was  listened  to  most  attentively  by  the  natives  pres- 
ent. It  was  their  first  opportunity  of  learning  this 
phase  of  Christianity,  and  it  was  an  important  event 
from  a  missionary  standpoint.  Christian  marriage 
and  the  principles  it  stands  for  generally  require  a 
long  time  for  inculcation  into  the  hearts  and  lives 
of  at  least  the  older  natives,  but  many  of  the  young- 
er ones  very  readily  accept  it,  as  the  many  Christian 
marriages  performed  at  our  older  stations  testify. 

At  the  close  of  the  ceremony,  and  after  the  mis- 
sionaries and  boys  had  offered  their  congratulations, 
the  rest  of  the  natives  congratulated  in  their  own 
way,  which  was  by  the  clapping  of  hands.  Some 
also  began  cheering  with  the  mouth,  but  this  dem- 
onstration was  checked.  Brother  Taylor  had  ar- 
ranged to  give  them  a  feast  of  beef  and  porridge, 
and  this  they  greatly  enjoyed,  as  it  is  to  some  the 
great  aim  of  life ;  namely,  to  have  plenty  to  eat. 

The  second  important  event  was  the  occasion  of 
the  first  baptism  at  Macha,  in  which  ten  of  our 


322  AFRICA 

boys  were  baptized  by  Brother  Steigerwald  in  the 
Macha  River,  and  received  into  Church  fellowship, 
thus  showing  to  their  heathen  neighbors  that  they 
had  forsaken  their  old  lives.  A  beautiful  feature 
of  this  was  that  some  of  the  parents  and  older  ones 
met  them  as  they  came  out  of  the  water  and  seemed 
to  rejoice  with  them  in  their  new  life.  There  were 
others  who  were  eager  to  take  the  step,  but  it  was 
thought  they  had  not  yet  sufficiently  counted  the 
cost. 

We  then  had  the  privilege  of  surrounding  the 
table  of  the  Lord  together  with  these  who  had  been 
so  lately  snatched  from  heathen  darkness.  These 
were  the  first  fruits  of  Macha  and  reminded  one  of 
Professor  Drummond's  experience  in  Nyassaland. 
He  says :  "  I  cherish  no  more  sacred  memory  of 
my  life  than  that  of  a  communion  service  in  the 
little  Bandawe  Church,  when  the  sacramental  cup 
was  handed  to  me  by  the  bare  black  arm  of  a  native 
communicant — a  communicant  whose  life,  tested 
afterwards  in  many  an  hour  of  trial  with  me  on  the 
Tanganyika  Plateau,  gave  him  perhaps  a  better 
right  to  be  there  than  any  of  us." 

The  missionary  too  is  often  made  to  feel,  as  he 
sees  some  of  these  humble,  black  followers  of  the 
Lord,  and  thinks  how  far  they  have  come,  and  how 
steadfast  the  lives  of  many  of  them  prove  to  be, 
that  He  Who  sees  and  tests  all  hearts  may,  with 
Mr.  Drummond,  conclude  that  they  have  a  better 
right  to  sit  around  the  table  of  the  Lord  than  any 
of  us. 


CHAPTER  SEVEN 
Other  Missionary  Experiences 

THE  experiences  of  a  missionary  are  so  many 
and  so  diverse  that  nothing  should  surprise 
him.  To  give  these  experiences,  with  too 
distinct  a  line  of  demarcation,  would  not  place  the 
work  in  its  proper  setting,  for  they  often  come  pil- 
ing one  upon  the  other  and  cannot  be  separated. 

I  had  now  been  north  of  the  Zambezi  nearly  three 
and  one-half  years,  and  was  in  need  of  a  change,  so 
when  the  delegation  from  America  left  I  also  went 
along  to  the  station.  Brother  and  Sister  Taylor  ac- 
companied us  to  Choma  Station  on  a  little  wedding 
trip,  and  then  returned  to  carry  on  the  work  at 
Macha,  while  David  took  charge  of  the  school. 
Elders  Engle  and  Steigerwald  went  north  on  an 
exploring  trip  as  far  as  Broken  Hill.  Brother 
Sheets  went  to  Bulawayo,  and  I  to  Natal. 

On  the  way  south  an  accident  occurred  which 
was  quite  unusual,  even  for  this  animal-ridden 
country.  After  the  train  had  passed  the  Zambezi 
River  and  Wankie  Coal  Fields,  in  the  evening  about 
eight  o'clock  there  was  a  lunge  in  the  train  and  a 
lady  in  the  same  compartment  with  myself  ex- 
claimed, "  There  must  be  an  accident  of  some  kind." 
The  train  soon  came  to  a  sudden  stop,  and  it  was 
evident  that  something  had  happened.  People  be- 
gan running  about  in  the  darkness,  a  large  bonfire 
323 


324  AFRICA 

was  soon  built  near  the  front  of  the  train,  a  bulky 
form  was  visible,  and  word  came  back  that  we  had 
struck  an  elephant.  Great  excitement  prevailed. 
Gomo  also  was  on  the  train,  returning  to  his  home, 
and  he  came  back  to  our  compartment  and  said, 
"  Come  and  see  the  elephant.  I'll  take  care  of  you." 

I  went  forward  with  him  and  found  a  huge  ele- 
phant lying  beside  the  train.  Its  two  hind  feet  were 
crushed,  as  the  engine,  tender,  and  service  car  had 
passed  over  them ;  otherwise  it  was  unhurt,  and  at 
times  made  violent  efforts  to  stand  upon  its  front 
feet.  At  such  times  the  crowd  of  people  would 
suddenly  take  flight,  to  be  out  of  harm's  way,  and  a 
box-car  near  by  was  in  danger  of  being  demolished. 
No  one  on  the  train  was  supplied  with  a  large  rifle, 
suitable  for  elephant  hunting,  but  small  ones  kept 
up  a  lively  fire,  until  perhaps  three  dozen  were 
emptied  into  the  huge  bulk  before  it  succumbed. 

The  engine  had  been  derailed  by  the  violence  of 
the  shock,  and  it  would  require  some  time  before 
we  could  proceed.  Judging  from  the  spoor  it  was 
evident  that  the  elephant  was  one  of  those  large 
ones  that  roam  the  forests  alone,  and  it  had  run 
quite  a  distance  on  the  track  before  the  engine 
struck  it.  It  was  an  immense  animal,  and  the  large 
ears  resembled  a  cape  lying  back  over  the  shoulders. 

There  were  a  number  of  natives  on  the  train,  who 
were  going  down  to  work  in  the  mines  about  Bula- 
wayo,  and  they  wished  to  begin  at  once  on  the  feast 
of  meat  before  them,  but  the  authorities  thought  it 
best  to  put  them  at  working  the  large  jacks  used  in 
moving  the  engine  back  on  the  rails.  All  night  long 
bright  fires  of  logs  were  kept  burning  to  light  up 


MACHA  MISSION  325 

the  scene  and  work.  The  engine  finally  was  in 
place,  and  the  natives  eagerly  hastened  to  cut  out 
large  pieces  of  elephant  meat  and  to  roast  it  over 
the  great  beds  of  coal  left  from  the  campfires  of 
the  night.  Soon,  however,  the  train  began  to  move, 
just  twelve  hours  from  the  time  of  stopping,  and 
the  natives,  with  their  raw  or  half-cooked  meat,  has- 


Elephant    That    D 


tened  to  enter  their  car,  and  we  moved  on,  having 
had  a  share  in  one  of  the  most  exciting  railroad 
trips  of  the  season.  The  tusks  of  this  elephant  fi- 
nally found  their  way  into  the  Bulawayo  Museum. 
The  tusks  of  the  African  elephant  often  are  quite 
large  and  heavy.  I  once  saw  in  a  European  home 
three  pairs  of  tusks  from  elephants  lately  killed  by 
a  young  farmer.  Of  one  pair  of  tusks  each  was 


326  AFRICA 

five  feet  long,  eighteen  inches  in  diameter ;  one 
weighed  one  hundred  pounds  and  the  other  five 
pounds  less.  We  are  informed,  however,  that  some 
have  tusks  still  much  larger  than  these. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  give  the  details  of  this,  our 
second  trip  south  to  Natal  and  Johannesburg,  and 
my  visit  to  our  mission  stations  in  the  Matopos  have 
already  been  mentioned.  I  was  absent  six  months 
and  felt  thoroughly  rested  and  ready  for  the  work 
again.  On  my  return  to  Bulawayo,  however,  I 
learned  the  sad  news  that  the  native  who  had  come 
south  on  the  train  at  the  same  time  as  myself  had, 
since  he  was  at  home,  fallen  into  sin.  We  were  all 
deeply  grieved  over  this,  and  he  confessed  and 
wept  over  his  condition,  but  appeared  discouraged 
and  unable  to  take  hold  of  the  Lord  by  faith  for 
pardon  and  cleansing.  There  were  several  others  in 
his  home  who  had  once  confessed  Christ  and  had 
backslidden,  and  they  no  doubt  had  their  influence 
over  him.  The  Lord  is  still  able  to  redeem  him, 
and  may  he  have  our  prayers.  Such  are  some  of 
the  heavy  burdens  the  missionaries  have  to  bear. 

On  my  return  in  June,  1910,  Misses  Mary  Heisey 
and  Elizabeth  Engle  accompanied  me  to  Macha  to 
pay  a  visit  to  that  place.  Brother  Taylor  met  us  at 
the  station  and  conveyed  us  to  the  mission,  where 
we  were  greeted  by  a  crowd  of  boys  and  five  girls, 
who  had  joined  the  mission  family,  with  the  clap- 
ping of  hands  and  the  firing  of  a  rifle.  We  rejoiced 
that  we  could  again  return  to  our  field  of  labor. 

In  the  new  house  and  improved  surroundings  ev- 
ery one  had  been  well  and  the  work  had  been  mov- 
ing forward  in  all  its  departments  under  the  effi- 


MACHA   MISSION 


327 


328  AFRICA 

cient  management  of  Brother  and  Sister  Taylor. 
Not  only  had  these  girls  come  to  stay  at  the  mission, 
but  David  had  prevailed  upon  a  number  to  attend 
day-school,  at  least  part  of  the  time.  Sister  Taylor, 
in  addition  to  her  many  other  duties,  had  formed  all 
these  girls  into  a  sewing-class  and  was  endeavoring 
to  teach  them  to  make  garments  for  themselves. 
This  was  the  first  opportunity  that  had  been  given 
of  instructing  girls  in  sewing,  and  she  had  made 
remarkable  progress  also  in  instructing  them  in 
their  work  about  the  house. 

Naturally  they  do  not  know  what  cleanliness  is, 
either  about  their  person  or  in  their  homes.  They 
seldom  wash,  they  go  half-clad,  and  smear  their 
bodies  with  paint  and  grease,  and  often  let  the  dogs 
lick  clean  the  few  dishes  or  pots  which  they  possess. 
If  their  hands  are  wet  or  dirty,  the  posts  of  the 
veranda,  blocks  of  wood,  or  floors  are  used  as  towels 
to  wipe  on.  They  see  no  reason  for  continually 
washing  a  lot  of  dishes,  sweeping  floors,  and  keep- 
ing the  house  in  order;  and  they  open  their  eyes  in 
astonishment  to  see  white  sheets  and  tablecloths 
put  into  the  water  to  be  washed.  The  few  articles 
of  clothing  to  be  seen  in  their  homes  are  generally 
so  thickly  coated  with  grease  and  dirt  as  often  to 
render  it  impossible  to  distinguish  the  color.  Many 
times  they  do  not  have  any  soap,  and  even  if  they 
do  have,  they  object  to  washing  their  clothing  for 
fear  it  will  wear  out.  And  yet  these  young  girls, 
reared  in  such  homes  had,  in  these  few  months, 
made  rapid  progress  and  were  becoming  quite  pro- 
ficient in  assisting  with  some  of  the  work  of  the 


MACHA  MISSION  329 

kitchen.  Sister  Taylor's  great  patience  in  teaching 
them  was  bearing  fruit 

Brother  Taylor  had,  in  connection  with  his  other 
duties,  made  a  large  galvanized  iron  tank  to  hold 
rain  water.  This  was  large  enough  for  1,700  gal- 
lons of  water,  and  was  greatly  needed,  as  the  river 
water  which  we  were  obliged  to  use  was  very  muddy 
part  of  the  year.  He  had  always  maintained  that 
he  was  no  mechanic,  but  another  missionary,  Rev. 
Kerswell,  who  had  had  experience  in  mechanical 
work,  said  on  seeing  this  tank,  "  Mr.  Taylor,  you 
say  that  you  are  no  mechanic;  but  if  you  made  this, 
you  are  one;  for  no  one  but  a  mechanic  could  per- 
form such  a  piece  of  work." 

While  the  sisters  were  with  us  Brother  Taylor 
and  wife  arranged  to  take  them  on  a  trip  north,  so 
that  they  might  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  some- 
thing of  the  country  and  the  natives.  For  this  pur- 
pose the  wagon  was  again  fitted  up  with  the  tent 
and  camping  outfit  and  the  ten  oxen  inspanned.  A 
number  of  the  schoolboys  were  permitted  to  accom- 
pany them  for  a  holiday,  but  the  regular  driver  for 
the  wagon  did  not  go  along.  They  spent  some  time 
at  the  two  large  villages  of  Kabanzi  and  Simeoba, 
holding  services  and  conversing  with  the  natives, 
and  then  proceeded  toward  a  village  farther  north. 
The  grass  was  long,  the  road  new,  and  darkness 
was  coming  on  when  they  approached  the  village. 
As  frequently  happens  near  a  village,  there  was  a 
large  opening  in  the  ground  from  which  clay  had 
been  taken  to  plaster  the  huts.  This  was  partly 
hidden  by  the  long  grass,  and  had  not  been  noticed 
in  the  gathering  darkness.  Brother  Taylor  had 


330 


AFRICA 


MACHA  MISSION  331 

gone  in  advance  to  look  out  a  place  for  camping, 
and  some  of  the  boys  were  driving.  The  wheels  of 
one  side  of  the  wagon  went  down  suddenly  into  the 
excavation  and  the  wagon  was  overturned,  the  tent 
being  under  the  heavy  wagon.  The  accident  might 
have  been  very  serious  for  the  women,  but  fortu- 
nately there  were  two  large  boxes  in  the  wagon  and 
these  prevented  the  weight  of  the  wagon  from  rest- 
ing on  them  and  they  escaped  without  any  serious 
injury,  but  the  tent  was  of  course  ruined.  Brother 
Taylor  said  that,  as  he  hastened  to  the  wagon,  he 
heard  a  boy  on  the  rear  end  of  the  wagon  yelling 
lustily ;  so  he  felt  satisfied  that  that  one  was  not 
dead,  and  he  turned  his  first  attention  to  those  who 
were  making  no  noise. 

When  the  sisters  returned  to  their  fields  of  labor, 
David  again  returned  home,  this  time  to  be  married 
and  bring  back  a  wife  from  Mapani  Station. 

The  spiritual  condition  of  the  pupils  continued 
excellent.  There  was  a  spirit  of  inquiry  among 
them  and  a  seaching  after  God  at  times,  as  the  Spir- 
it was  poured  out  upon  them.  Some  prayed  through 
to  victory  and  a  definite  knowledge  of  sins  forgiven. 
Those  who  had  been  with  us  longer  were  instru- 
mental in  bringing  the  newer  ones  to  seek  pardon. 
The  spirit  among  them  was  such  that  any  one  who 
did  not  care  to  be  a  Christian  generally  did  not  re- 
main long  at  the  mission.  At  this  time  also  we  were 
favored  with  special  donations  and  enabled  to  equip 
the  school  better  and  give  more  attention  toward 
the  training  of  teachers. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  one  of  the  special 
needs  was  a  translation  of  the  Scriptures  into  the 


332  AFRICA 

language  of  the  people.  The  books  already  in  use, 
prepared  by  Rev.  Smith,  were  in  the  Ila  language. 
This  was  sufficiently  allied  to  the  Tonga  for  use  at 
Macha ;  and  it  is  always  an  advantage  in  the  mission 
field  to  unify  the  languages  as  much  as  possible,  so 
as  to  reduce  rather  than  increase  the  number  of 
languages. 

St.  Mark  was  already  in  print,  and  Mr.  Smith, 
together  with  some  of  his  colleagues,  was  putting 
forth  great  efforts  to  translate  the  entire  New  Testa- 
ment into  Ila.  At  their  urgent  request  I  consented  to 
be  on  the  revision  committee,  for  they  desired  to 
make  the  translation  as  intelligible  as  possible  to  the 
Batonga,  so  that  it  could  be  used  all  over  North- 
western Rhodesia,. with  the  exception  of  among  the 
Barotse,  where  the  Suto  language  was  in  use.  Mat- 
thew was  soon  in  print,  and  the  entire  New  Testa- 
ment is  at  present  in  the  hands  of  the  publishers. 
The  translators  deserve  much  praise  for  their  labori- 
ous task  and  the  creditable  manner  in  which  they 
have  performed  the  much-needed  translation.  The 
Word  cannot  be  properly  disseminated  among  the 
people  unless  the  pupils  have  it  in  their  own  lan- 
guage as  they  go  out  among  the  villages  to  teach. 

Placing  native  teachers  in  their  homes  seems  to 
be  the  best  method  of  reaching  the  majority  of  the 
people,  and  especially  the  girls;  and  some  of  the 
pupils  were  sufficiently  advanced  to  begin  teaching, 
yet  they  were  somewhat  young  to  go  out  into  their 
dark,  dark  homes  and  stand  alone  for  God.  Not- 
withstanding this,  before  the  end  of  1910  several 
schools  were  opened  in  the  nearest  villages,  and  the 


MACHA   MISSION  333 

teachers  boarded  at  the  mission  and  went  back  and 
forth  to  teach. 

On  Christmas  week^of  this  year  a  sad  and  unfor- 
tunate affair  occurred,  which  threw  a  gloom  over 
the  community.  My  readers  will  remember  the 
Chief  Macha,  who  sent  a  goat  the  first  Christmas, 
and  who  was  the  first  to  bring  his  little  boy  as  a 
pupil  in  school.  To  all  appearances  he  was  a  friend 
of  the  work  from  the  beginning,  and  he  was  nearly 
always  to  be  found  in  his  place  at  the  services  on 
Sunday.  He  had  even  expressed  a  desire  several 
times  to  be  a  Christian.  We  knew  his  life  had  not 
changed,  but  he  had  evidently  lost  faith  in  some 
of  the  old  pagan  beliefs,  and  his  influence  was  worth 
much.  He  was  a  man  of  importance  in  the  neigh- 
borhood and  the  owner  of  a  herd  of  cattle,  which 
was  quite  large  from  a  native  standpoint. 

On  the  day  before  Christmas  word  came  that  he 
had  gone  to  the  hills  and  could  not  be  found ;  again 
that  he  was  found  dead,  killed  by  a  lion.  His  son 
at  once  went  home,  and  I,  together  with  some  of 
the  girls,  soon  followed.  On  the  way  to  the  village 
we  met  a  native  woman,  who  informed  us  that  he 
was  already  buried,  and  on  our  arrival  at  the  place 
we  found  that  those  who  buried  him  had  gone  to 
the  river  to  wash.  While  we  were  sitting  there 
several  of  the  people  came  to  speak  to  us,  and  we  no- 
ticed that  some  of  the  men  spoke  together  in  a  low 
tone.  Their  answers  to  some  of  our  questions  were 
somewhat  vague ;  but  as  there  was  no  suspicion  of 
foul  play,  we  thought  no  more  of  the  matter  and 
asked  no  further  questions. 

After  the  people  returned  from  the  river,  the  wail- 


334 


AFRICA 


MACHA  MISSION  335 

ing  began  by  about  thirty  or  thirty-five  men  walk- 
ing back  and  forth,  brandishing  their  assegais  and 
guns  and  crying  "M(fwc!"  At  the  same  time  the 
women  stood  about  the  grave,  wailing  and  calling 
upon  the  dead.  The  sight  was  somewhat  fearful 
and  might  have  alarmed  a  stranger,  but  since  the 
majority  of  these  were  from  the  adjacent  kraals  and 
were  acquainted  with  us  we  feared  no  violence.  In 
the  evening  Brother  Taylor  and  the  boys  went  over 
to  show  their  sympathy,  and  the  next  day  services 
were  held  there.  All  this  time  nothing  further  was 
learned  except  that  the  chief  was  killed  by  a  lion. 
The  English  official  from  Kalomo,  who,  with  his 
messengers,  happened  to  be  in  the  neighborhood  at 
the  time,  received  the  same  version  of  the  cause  of 
the  death  as  we  did.  According  to  native  custom, 
the  brother  of  the  deceased  assumed  his  title  and 
appropriated  his  cattle,  and  the  affair,  as  far  as  it 
concerned  ourselves,  was  dropped. 

About  three  weeks  later  Lupata,  another  chief, 
who  lived  near,  together  with  one  of  his  men,  and 
Kaiba,  a  nephew  of  the  deceased,  came  to  inform  us 
that  Macha  had  been  murdered.  They  said  that  he 
had  been  murdered  while  out  on  the  veldt,  and  an 
attempt  made  to  hide  the  body.  A  number  of  na- 
tives went  to  search  for  him,  Lupata  among  the 
number,  and  when  they  discovered  the  body  they 
saw  at  once  that  a  murder  had  been  committed.  The 
brother  of  the  murdered  man  enjoined  the  rest  to 
secrecy  and  promised  to  give  Lupata  some  cattle  if 
he  would  not  tell  the  missionaries  or  officials  of  the 
crime.  Lupata,  although  very  fond  of  cattle,  of 
which  he  had  only  a  few,  did  not  jump  at  the  bribe. 


336  AFRICA 

He  said  that  he  and  Kaiba  desired  to  inform  me  on 
the  day  of  the  funeral  that  the  chief  had  been  mur- 
dered, but  the  brother  said,  "  Do  not  talk  about  it  to 
the  white  people,"  and  they  had  been  silent  for  fear 
of  offending  him ;  as  natives  never  like  to  gain  the 
ill  will  of  their  fellows. 

We  might  have  heard  nothing  further  about  it, 
at  least  for  a  time ;  but  the  brother  was  afraid  the 
crime  might  leak  out,  and  he  still  hoped  to  silence 
the  affair  by  giving  the  other  chief  some  cattle.  To 
do  this  he  was  not  willing  to  take  of  his  own  cattle, 
which  he  had  taken  from  the  murdered  man,  but 
tried  to  take  those  of  Kaiba,  who  was  a  good,  un- 
assuming native.  Kaiba  greatly  resented  this  dis- 
position of  his  property,  and  wanted  to  take  the 
matter  to  the  magistrate  at  Kalomo.  He  and  Lu- 
pata  came  to  inform  us  of  the  murder  and  wished 
us  to  inform  the  magistrate  by  letter.  Lupata  said, 
"  I  do  not  want  his  cattle  and  I  think  you  should 
write  and  tell  the  Mwami  [magistrate]  of  the  mur- 
der." Both  refused  to  state  who  they  thought  was 
the  murderer. 

Brother  Taylor  wrote  an  explanation  of  the  affair 
and  Kaiba  carried  the  letter  to  the  magistrate,  the 
brother  and  two  other  natives  accompanying.  This 
was  the  first  intimation  the  magistrate  had  of  foul 
play,  and  when  he  put  the  question  to  them  they 
readily  acknowledged  that  the  man  had  been  mur- 
dered. The  brother,  however,  who  had  always  been 
opposed  to  everything  good,  and  had  a  very  evil 
countenance,  showed  the  cunning  of  his  master ; 
and  he  and  one  of  the  men  accompanying  put  the 
blame  on  the  third.  This  one  acknowledged  his 


MACHA  MISSION  337 

guilt,  saying  that  he  and  the  other  had  killed  the 
chief  and  the  brother  had  sent  them.  We  were  in- 
formed later  that  the  brother  sent  them  three  times 
before  they  became  willing  to  perform  the  deed. 
Of  course  all  three  were  put  behind  the  bars. 

It  was  a  case  of  alleged  witchcraft.  Several  chil- 
dren had  died  in  the  kraal  under  peculiar  circum- 
stances, and  the  blame  had  been  laid  by  the  brother, 
who  was  a  witch  doctor,  on  the  chief.  We  prefer  to 


Sisters  Engle  Crossing  the  Tuli  River  in  the  Matopo 
Hills. 


think,  from  what  we  know  of  the  two,  that  the 
brother  was  the  guilty  one  in  each  instance,  and 
was  desirous  of  the  chief's  property  and  position. 

During  this  rainy  season  it  was  thought  advis- 
able for  Brother  and  Sister  Taylor  to  go  to  Bula- 
wayo  and  Matopo  Mission  for  a  much-needed  rest. 
She  went  in  November  and  he  followed  in  January, 
1911.  At  the  same  time  David  returned  with  his 
wife,  Mankunku.  Mankunku  is  one  of  the  converts 
from  Mapani  Mission.  She  is  a  sincere  Christian 


338  AFRICA 

girl,  and  has  proved  a  great  help  and  blessing  among 
the  women  and  girls  at  Macha  ever  since  she  came. 
These  two,  with  myself,  prosecuted  the  work  at 
Macha  for  the  next  five  months  alone. 

There  were  at  this  time  forty-six  boys  and  four 
girls  staying  at  the  mission,  and  it  was  necessary, 
not  only  to  teach  them  in  school,  but  to  keep  them 
profitably  employed  during  work  hours  and  out  on 
the  farm.  Quite  a  fair  amount  of  land  was  under 
cultivation,  and  Brother  Taylor  had  planted  grain, 
fruit,  and  vegetables  before  he  left,  the  care  of  which 
gave  the  boys  plenty  of  work  to  do  during  the 
rainy  season.  As  soon  as  that  was  over  David  made 
use  of  them  in  getting  grass  and  poles  together  for 
building,  and  as  permanent  buildings  were  to  be 
erected  they  tried  to  secure  hardwood  rafters. 

Although  there  were  so  many  boys  together,  yet 
all  manifested  a  nice  Christian  spirit.  They  were 
not  quarrelsome,  and  they  were  obedient  and  faith- 
ful in  their  work.  The  chief  difficulty  with  natives 
is  that  they  are  inclined  to  keep  their  eyes  fixed  on 
the  missionary  too  constantly  and  do  not  learn  to 
depend  on  God  for  their  own  spiritual  needs.  The 
missionary,  as  he  realizes  the  responsibility  resting 
upon  him,  often  feels  like  exclaiming,  "  Who  is  suf- 
ficient for  these  things?"  to  lead  all  in  the  right 
way.  He  may  rejoice,  however,  that  he  can  contin- 
ually say,  "  My  sufficiency  is  of  God."  He  must 
also  by  every  means  in  his  power  get  their  eyes  off 
of  himself  and  fix  them  on  God.  Otherwise  they 
will  do  what  is  right  at  the  mission  and  fall  when 
those  props  are  removed. 

June  16  I  wrote  somewhat  as  follows : 


MACHA   MISSION  339 

Last  Monday  the  wagon  went  to  the  Myeki  River 
(about  five  miles  distant)  to  get  some  thatching  grass 
which  the  boys  had  cut  -there  the  week  before.  I  thought 
it  an  excellent  opportunity  to  visit  Semani,  who  has  been 
sick  for  some  time  and  not  likely  to  recover.  I  took 
along  three  girls  and  the  two  six-year-old  boys  and 
thoroughly  dismissed  from  my  miiul  home  cares.  We 
had  a  delightful  ride  over  and  a  nice  walk  back,  but  best 
of  all  was  the  visit  with  Semani.  He  had  accepted  Christ 
while  here  at  the  mission  and  had  often  accompanied 
David  in  his  kraal-visiting.  He  became  sick,  however, 
and  we  seemed  unable  to  help  him,  so  he  desired  to  re- 
turn home  until  he  was  well.  He  was  always  hoping 
he  would  recover  and  return  to  us. 

He  has  pleurisy  and  is  continually  growing  worse,  and 
it  is  evident  that  the  end  is  not  far  off.  He  greeted  me 
with  a  smile  as  I  entered,  and  while  we  were  speaking, 
I  inquired  "Is  Jesus  here?"  The  reply,  with  a  bright 
smile  was,  "  Yes,  He  is  here."  We  continued  to  speak 
of  the  things  of  the  other  world  and  what  the  Lord  has 
in  store  for  His  children,  and  through  it  all  he  seemed 
so  ready  both  to  talk  and  to  listen.  His  old  heathen 
mother  sat  there  in  sort  of  a  dazed  wonder  to  hear  us 
speaking  thus  familiarly  and  without  fear  of  death  and 
transition.  For  her  sake  I  then  asked  him  if  he  were 
afraid  to  die.  He  quickly  replied,  "  Oh,  no,  I  am  not  at 
all  afraid  to  die;  I  am  ready." 

Later,  when  we  bowed  in  prayer,  he  prayed,  "  I  thank 
Thee,  God,  for  Thy  help  and  blessing.  I  have  come 
through  some  hard  places,  but  Thou  hast  given  me  vic- 
tory. And,  Jesus,  if  my  time  has  come  and  You  want  to 
take  me,  it  is  all  right.  I'll  gladly  go  with  You." 

How  we  could  rejoice  that  here  was  one  who,  only 
two  or  three  years  ago,  was  a  raw  heathen  boy,  now  so 
happy  in  the  Lord,  and  so  ready  to  meet  Him.  If  one 
soul  fs  worth  more  than  the  whole  world  then  our  com- 
ing to  Macha  has  not  been  in  vain.  His  people  had  been 
wanting  to  "throw  bones"  and  "smell  out"  the  one  who, 
according  to  their  ideas,  had  bewitched  him,  but  he  stead- 
fastly refused,  for  he  has  no  faith  in  those  things. 


340 


AFRICA 


The  Bottle  Palm. 


MACHA   MISSION  341 

Later  it  was  my  privilege  to  again  visit  him,  to- 
gether with  Mankunku.  We  had  made  a  trip  to  a 
village  beyond,  where  we  remained  for  the  night, 
and  stopped  with  Semani,  both  going  and  returning. 
He  was  much  weaker  at  this  time  and  it  was  evi- 
dent the  end  was  near,  and  his  friends  had  gathered 
and  were  ready  for  the  wailing.  We  found  him, 
although  in  great  pain  and  with  great  difficulty  in 
breathing,  yet  rejoicing  and  happy  in  the  thought 
that  he  was  soon  going  home.  He  could  not  lie 
down,  but  was  supported  in  the  arms  of  his  mother, 
who  was  doing  all  in  her  power  to  help  him  bear 
his  suffering.  He  was,  however,  able  to  take  a  little 
of  the  nourishment  which  we  brought  him.  On  our 
return  the  day  following,  he  was  still  weaker.  In 
the  night  his  friends  thought  he  was  dying,  when 
he  suddenly  roused  and  sang  "  Jesu  udi  tu  fwine  " 
("Jesus  loves  me").  These  heathen  friends  in 
speaking  to  one  another  the  next  day  said,  "  His 
heart  is  white  toward  God,  and  that  is  the  reason  he 
can  sing  when  dying." 

Before  we  departed  he  requested  Christian  burial, 
so  we  left  word  for  them  to  inform  us  at  once  of 
his  death.  Word  came  that  same  evening.  Brother 
Taylor  was  at  home  by  this  time,  and  he  and 
David,  together  with  a  number  of  the  schoolboys, 
went  at  once  to  the  burial,  although  it  was  night. 
They  found  the  body  prepared  for  burial  and  the 
people  digging  the  grave.  Brother  Taylor  said  ev- 
erything was  carried  on  most  quietly  until  services 
were  over  and  the  body  had  been  buried ;  then  the 
heathen  part  of  the  wailing  began  in  earnest.  His 
brother,  while  wailing,  continued  to  cry  out,  "  Se- 


342  AFRICA 

mani,  where  has  he  gone?  He  has  gone  to  the 
light.  Oh!  where  has  he  gone?"  It  was  the  wail 
of  gross  darkness  seeing  a  faint  glimmer  of  light, 
but  knowing  not  how  to  reach  it. 

The  deathbed  of  our  friends,  surrounded  with  all 
the  comforts  this  life  can  afford — soft  beds,  willing, 
low-voiced  nurses,  dainty  food,  helpful  and  spiritual 
ministrations — is  often  trying  enough ;  here,  how- 
ever, was  one  deprived  of  all  these  comforts,  with 
the  exception  of  the  occasional  visits  of  his  mission- 
aries, lying  or  sitting  on  the  hard  floor,  with  only  a 
mat  for  a  bed,  without  even  the  ordinary  decencies 
of  life,  much  less  its  comforts,  in  a  village  and  home 
wholly  pagan;  and  yet  he  goes,  rejoicing  in  his 
Savior's  love,  carried  out  of  this  dark  hovel  to  be- 
hold things  "  Eye  hath  not  seen,  nor  ear  heard, 
neither  have  entered  into  the  heart  of  man  the 
things  which  God  hath  prepared,"  but  He  had  al- 
ready revealed  them  unto  him  by  His  Spirit. 


CHAPTER  EIGHT 
Further  Improvements  and  Industrial  Work 

INDUSTRIAL  work  had  from  the  first  pro- 
gressed very  favorably  at  the  mission.  The 
majority  of  boys,  as  they  came,  stayed  on  from 
year  to  year  and  exhibited  more  tenacity  of  purpose 
than  is  generally  to  be  found  among  the  natives 
Some  of  them  had  assisted  in  making  brick  for  the 
house  and  in  the  building;  others  had  learned  to 
handle  the  oxen  in  the  wagon  and  on  the  farm  in 
plowing,  harrowing,  and  cultivating,  while  a  num- 
ber were  engaged  in  gardening,  hoeing,  and  the 
general  work  of  the  farm.  Even  the  youngest  were 
not  idle,  although  their  labors  did  not  equal  the 
expense  of  their  keeping.  We  were,  however,  grow- 
ing sufficient  grain  and  food  to  supply  our  large 
family  so  that  they  could  be  kept  from  year  to  year 
under  Christian  training  without  their  proving  a 
heavy  burden  on  the  mission  financially. 

In  June  we  were  pleased  to  receive  Brother  and 
Sister  Taylor  back  from  Bulawayo,  and  with  them 
a  blessing  to  the  mission  in  the  person  of  a  little 
baby,  Ruth  Taylor.  I  use  the  term  blessing  advised- 
ly, for  this  dainty  little  Ruth  was  indeed  such  to  all 
connected  with  the  work.  These  people  had  not 
seen  a  white  child,  and  this  one  was  an  ever-increas- 
ing source  of  wonder  and  interest  to  the  black  faces 
around  us.  They  would  stand  near  her  noting  every 
343 


344  AFRICA 

move  and  commenting  on  everything  they  saw.  Her 
soft  white  skin  and  spotless 'garments  soon  gave  her 
a  name.  "  U  swezhiwa  "  ("  she  is  clean  or  pure  ") 
the  girls  called  her,  and  thus  she  undoubtedly 
looked  by  contrast.  Her  presence  often  attracted 
to  the  services  people,  especially  the  women,  who 
otherwise  would  have  remained  at  home ;  for  in  the 
eyes  of  some,  all  other  interests  paled  besides  this 
mite  of  humanity,  and  it  warmed  their  hearts  toward 
the  entire  work.  When  we  went  to  the  village  she 
was  again  a  center  of  attraction,  and  when  we  went 
alone  the  natives  would  always  inquire  about  U 
swezhiwa  and  her  mother.  \Yhen  prayer  was  of- 
fered by  the  boys  for  the  missionaries,  the  child  was 
never  forgotten. 

After  Brother  Taylor's  return  the  preparation  for 
building  went  forward  with  accelerated  speed.  This 
dry  season  of  1911  was  an  unusually  busy  one  at 
Macha.  A  church  was  greatly  needed,  for  the  one 
which  David  had  erected  four  years  previously,  and 
which  appeared  to  be  so  well-built,  was  rapidly 
showing  signs  of  decay.  It  was  still  standing,  but 
the  ants  had  riddled  the  roof  to  such  an  extent  that 
some  of  the  timbers  were  falling,  piece  by  piece, 
sometimes  to  the  danger  and  great  annoyance  of 
those  within.  On  this  account  we  decided  that  it 
was  best  to  vacate  it  even  before  the  new  one  was 
finished.  The  boys'  huts  also  were  decaying,  and 
we  found  it  difficult  to  house  the  large  number  of 
boys  staying  at  the  mission.  These  thatched  roofs 
are  very  heavy,  and  if  some  part  of  the  wall  becomes 
weak  the  huts  may  become  dangerous  to  life. 

One  evening  the  boys  of  one  of  the  huts  came  to 


MACHA   MISSION  345 

say  that  the  roof  of  their  hut  was  breaking.  We 
told  them  to  take  their  blankets  and  clothing  and  go 
into  another  hut.  They  did  so,  and  in  the  morning 
their  own  building  was  found  leveled  to  the  ground. 
As  we  viewed  the  sudden  ruin  we  breathed  a  prayer 
of  thanksgiving  that  no  one  was  hurt.  There  had 
been  about  fifteen  boys  sleeping  in  that  hut,  and 
had  they  been  inside  some  would  have  been  killed 
or  seriously  injured.  This  enabled  us  to  realize  how 
dangerous  huts  were  when  partly  eaten,  and  the 
need  of  better  buildings. 

On  account  of  building  it  was  fortunate  that  there 
was  such  a  large  number  of  boys  staying  at  the 
mission,  and  that  the  majority  were  large  enough  to 
be  of  service,  so  that  there  was  no  need  of  employ- 
ing outside  labor.  Brother  Taylor  was  excellent  in 
training  boys  along  industrial  lines,  a  quality  which 
is  especially  useful  and  helpful  on  the  mission  field, 
both  in  the  interests  of  the  work  and  of  the  natives 
themselves.  Some  people  are  glad  to  use  native 
helpers  when  they  are  trained  ready  to  order,  but 
they  soon  become  discouraged  when  time  and  pa- 
tience are  required. 

The  native  learns  by  doing,  and  often  learns  by 
his  many  mistakes.  Again,  he  may  be  careless  and 
consider  accuracy  unnecessary.  He  is  nature's 
child,  and  everything  he  does  for  himself  is  in 
curves.  His  hut  is  round,  his  baskets  are  round,  his 
paths  are  meandering,  like  the  stream,  for  he,  like  it, 
goes  in  the  path  of  least  resistance.  Straight  lines 
and  right  angles  are  unintelligible  to  him,  and  he 
does  not  readily  grasp  such  things,  nor  does  he  easi- 
ly learn  to  make  them.  Patience,  which  is  always  a 


346  AFRICA 

virtue,  is,  in  industrial  work  among  the  natives,  an 
absolute  necessity.  One  who  will  not  take  time  and 
teach  them  will  accomplish  nothing  praiseworthy  in 
this  respect. 

We  said  the  native  learns  by  doing;  so  he  does, 
but  it  is  generally  by  doing  not  once  or  twice  but 
repeatedly.  One  of  my  first  lessons  along  this  line 
was  when  visiting  in  the  home  of  an  official.  The 
lady  had  always  lived  in  South  Africa  and  had  been 
accustomed  to  deal  with  the  natives  all  her  life. 
Noticing  a  basket  of  snowy-white  clothes  I  inquired, 
"  Who  does  your  washing?  " 

She  replied,  "  The  boys;  I  send  them  to  the  river 
to  wash." 

"  But  how  can  you  teach  them  to  do  their  work  so 
well?" 

"  If  they  do  not  do  it  properly,"  she  replied,  "  I 
send  them  back  to  repeat  it  until  it  suits  me." 

This  is  the  keynote  of  the  situation.  In  addition 
to  showing  them  how  to  perform  a  task,  one  must 
insist  on  their  doing  it  just  as  they  have  been  told. 
If  they  become  careless  or  learn  with  difficulty,  one 
should  not  become  discouraged  and  go  and  finish 
the  work — for  this  frequently  is  easier  than  to  teach 
the  natives — but  should  insist  on  their  repeating  the 
task  until  it  is  properly  done.  Some  natives  with 
very  little  instruction  become  experts  at  certain 
kinds  of  work.  And  sometimes  even  raw  ones  read- 
ily adapt  themselves  to  housework  with  very  little 
training.  A  lady  in  Bulawayo,  who  was  a  very 
careful  housekeeper,  had  a  native  boy  as  servant, 
who  was  giving  excellent  satisfaction,  yet  she  sup- 
posed that  on  her  own  exertions  depended  the  work 


MACHA  MISSION 


347 


of  keeping  the  rooms  in  order.  Finally  he  con- 
cluded to  leave  her  service,  and  she  said  she  did 
not  know  until  after  he  left  how  much  work  he  had 
really  done.  He  had  been  in  the  habit,  early  in  the 
morning,  before  his  master  and  mistress  arose,  of 
going  over  the  house,  cleaning  and  polishing  mirrors 
and  furniture. 


Macha   Mission   Church   and   Boys'   House   Built 
by  Mr.  Myron  Taylor. 

Another  native,  whose  name  has  been  frequently 
mentioned  in  these  pages,  was  exceedingly  cleanly 
and  careful  in  his  personal  appearance.  His  clothes 
were  always  well  washed  and  mended,  and  he  went 
on  the  principle  that  a  stitch  in  time  saves  nine.  He 
learned  to  do  things  by  seeing  others  perform  them 
and  was  able  to  do  them  well.  Although  coming 
from  a  raw  heathen  home  he  was  called  an  excep- 


348  AFRICA 

tional  native,  even  by  those  who  had  had  long  expe- 
rience with  civilized  natives. 

As  a  rule  those  who  are  careful  and  painstaking 
are  generally  slow,  and  many  who  are  quick  often 
do  not  perform  their  work  properly.  Some  never 
seem  to  respond  to  careful  teaching,  and  with  oth- 
ers, many  both  trying  and  ludicrous  blunders  often 
occur.  In  the  early  days  of  Macha  Mission  we  had 
a  half-grown  boy,  by  the  name  of  Hamambile,  help- 
ing in  the  kitchen.  He  was  a  good  boy  and  seemed 
to  be  performing  his  work  properly.  One  day  sev- 
eral of  the  boys,  who  had  been  working  on  the  farm 
and  had  soiled  their  hands,  came  into  the  kitchen. 
Hamambile  was  washing  the  dishes,  so  he  generous- 
ly stepped  aside  and  invited  the  boys  to  \fesh  their 
hands  in  the  water  where  the  dishes  were  being 
washed,  and  this  they  were  vigorously  doing  when 
Sister  Engle  stepped  in  at  the  door.  Nor  did  her 
presence  in  the  least  abash  the  boys,  for  they  saw 
no  impropriety  in  the  act. 

Again,  during  the  last  year  some  new  girls  had 
joined  the  mission  family  and  were  being  initiated 
into  the  mysteries  of  housekeeping.  They  seemed 
to  learn  well  and  were  doing  their  work  properly, 
but  one  day  Sister  Doner,  on  looking  out  of  the 
window,  was  shocked  to  see  a  girl  out  in  the  yard 
with  the  dishpan,  washing  her  feet.  She  too  failed 
to  see  anything  out  of  place  in  her  act  when  she 
was  first  spoken  to.  She  said  she  was  just  making 
use  of  some  of  the  nice  soapsuds  on  the  water,  for 
she  thought  it  was  too  nice  to  throw  away.  It  can 
easily  be  seen  that  one  needs  to  be  continually 
watchful  while  teaching  some  of  them.  On  the  oth- 


MACHA   MISSION  349 

er  hand,  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  raw  native  con- 
siders the  white  man  or  woman  very  cranky  and 
extreme  when  he  insists  on  cleanliness  and  order 
about  the  work. 

On  account  of  the  great  need  it  was  necessary  to 
build  both  a  church  and  boys'  house  in  the  one  dry 
season.  There  was  erected  a  substantial  church, 
42  x  21  feet,  with  a  wide  veranda  in  front,  which 
was  also  partly  walled  up,  and  a  boys'  house,  55  x  16 
feet,  of  five  rooms,  with  a  veranda  all  along  the 
front.  These  were  both  of  burnt  brick  with  thatched 
roofs.  All  the  hardwood  timber  for  rafters  and 
plates,  and  also  the  large  amount  of  thatching  grass, 
were  procured  by  the  boys  the  same  season,  begin- 
ning in  March  and  April.  The  bricks  too  were  made 
and  both  buildings  were  under  cover  by  the  1st  of 
December.  This  was  all  done  with  the  aid  of  the 
school  boys  under  the  supervision  of  Brother  Tay- 
lor, assisted  by  David.  Part  of  the  time  the  work 
was  in  progress  during  school  hours,  the  boys  who 
assisted  at  such  times  receiving  full  wages,  as  they 
are  all  eager  to  earn  a  little  extra  money.  During 
the  month  of  brickmaking,  the  boys  donated  their 
time  as  an  offering  to  the  Church. 

After  they  had  made  the  bricks,  Brother  Taylor 
started  on  the  foundation  of  the  church,  and  then 
trained  several  of  the  Batonga  boys  in  bricklaying. 
Together  with  himself  and  David  they  laid  the  walls 
of  the  church,  all  the  larger  boys  having  a  share  in 
some  part  of  the  work.  The  walls  of  the  building 
are  high,  are  fourteen  inches  in  thickness  and  well 
laid.  When  this  was  completed  Brother  Taylor  left 
David,  assisted  by  some  of  the  boys,  to  put  on  the 


350  AFRICA 

thatched  roof,  which  too  is  an  excellent  piece  of 
work,  while  he  turned  his  attention  to  the  boys' 
house.  Nearly  all  the  brick  work  of  this  building 
was  done  by  the  boys  under  his  supervision,  and  at 
the  same  time  he  was  directing  some  in  sawing  by 
hand  and  making  door  and  window  frames  out  of 
the  native  hardwood  timber.  Later  some  of  the 
boys  were  instructed  in  thatching  it. 

When  this  boys'  house,  fifty-five  feet  long,  was 
completed  in  January,  the  only  thing  in  its  construc- 
tion that  had  been  bought  for  the  purpose  was  the 
zinc  under  the  walls  to  exclude  the  ants.  The  doors 
were  made  of  the  boards  of  packing  cases  in  which 
a  wagon  had  been  sent  from  America ;  the  thatching 
was  tied  on  with  strips  of  animal  hides  procured 
from  the  natives.  The  bedsteads  were  made  of  poles 
procured  in  the  forests  and  reeds  from  the  river. 
These  were  tied  with  bark  string,  and  over  the  top 
were  placed  animal  hides  also  bought  from  the  na- 
tives. Later  the  rooms  were  whitewashed  and  they, 
with  the  long  veranda  in  front,  made  an  excellent 
and  clean-looking  home  for  the  boys.  The  church 
had  imported  doors  and  windows,  as  well  as  zinc 
and  thatching  twine.  Otherwise  the  material  was 
almost  native. 

It  was  a  creditable  year's  work  and  Brother  Tay- 
lor deserved  much  praise  for  the  ability  with  which 
it  was  all  managed  and  the  boys  trained.  No  doubt 
some,  on  reading  these  lines,  might  say,  "  I  could 
never  be  a  missionary  if  I  had  to  build  like  that !  " 
"  Where  there  is  a  will  there  is  a  way,"  is  just  as 
applicable  on  the  mission  field  as  elsewhere.  It  is 
surprising  what  one  can  accomplish  if  he  is  willing 


MACHA  MISSION 


351 


352  AFRICA 

to  be  used.  Every  one  of  the  men  on  the  mission 
field  has  done  excellent  work  along  these  lines,  as 
the  well-built  brick  houses  and  churches  on  the  six 
mission  stations  at  the  present  day  testify.  Some  at 
first  declared  that  they  could  not  build,  but,  doubt- 
less, today  they  look  with  surprise  and  satisfaction 
on  the  work  of  their  own  hands.  In  addition  to  this 
they  have  every  reason  to  be  thankful  for  the  great 
amount  of  missionary  work  they  were  able  to  ac- 
complish in  the  building  by  training  and  fitting  the 
boys  to  a  higher  plane  of  living. 

After  the  buildings  were  under  roof,  Brother  Tay- 
lor, who  had  always  desired  to  devote  more  time  to 
evangelistic  work  among  the  villages,  felt  that  his 
way  was  opened  to  attend  almost  exclusively  to  that 
line  of  work.  Previous  to  this  he  had  held  services 
at  many  of  the  villages,  such  as  Mapanza,  Simeoba, 
Kabanzi,  Kabwe,  and  at  almost  all  the  important 
villages  near  as  well  as  north  among  the  Baila ;  but 
during  the  year  following  he  went  out  with  his  tent 
and  sometimes  spent  two,  three,  and  even  four 
weeks  at  one  place,  so  that  he  might  have  an  oppor- 
tunity of  giving  the  people  a  fair  conception  of  the 
Gospel.  He  spent  a  month  at  Chungu,  near  a  large 
village,  over  twenty  miles  from  the  mission. 

He  had  visited  the  place  before,  but  the  people 
were  not  eager  to  listen.  At  this  time  he  pitched  his 
tent  a  short  distance  from  the  village  and  informed 
the  people  that  he  had  come  to  teach  them,  and  that 
those  desiring  to  hear  should  come  to  the  tent  at 
such  a  time  as  best  suited  them.  About  8  A.  M. 
every  day  a  fair-sized  congregation  gathered  at  the 
tent  and  heard  the  Gospel  expounded  to  them.  He 


MACHA   MISSION  353 

had  some  very  good  meetings  at  that  place,  and  the 
people  became  interested  sufficiently  to  request  a 
school. 

During  the  year  he  found  many  open  doors  and 
gave  the  Gospel  to  a  large  number  of  people  who 
had  never  heard  of  a  Savior,  and  there  were  urgent 
calls  to  start  new  stations  in  the  needy  places.  How 
one  longs  to  see  some  one  step  in  at  the  opportune 
time  and  plant  lights  in  the  midst  of  the  darkness! 

While  this  work  was  progressing  David  devoted 
his  time  to  finishing  the  new  buildings  and  oversee- 
ing the  boys  at  work.  A  dear  Christian  lady  had 
sent  out  money  for  seats  in  the  new  church,  and  he 
began  to  make  them,  and  accomplished  this  task 
well,  and  the  building  was  furnished  with  good, 
comfortable  seats.  Some  of  the  boys,  in  writing  to 
their  friends  who  were  away  at  work,  said,  "  We 
have  nice  seats  in  the  church  and  we  do  not  become 
tired  when  we  sit  on  them  a  long  time."  A  good 
solid  floor  was  also  put  in,  and  this  was  tarred  and 
sanded. 

In  November,  1911,  we  again  had  the  privilege  of 
welcoming  Elder  Steigerwald  to  Macha.  He  had 
lately  returned  from  a  furlough  to  America,  and  his 
visit  was  like  getting  a  glimpse  of  the  outside  world. 
The  Mission  Board  had  sent  out  with  him  for 
Macha  a  large  two-seated  spring  wagon  with  can- 
vas top,  something  just  suited  for  this  country  and 
climate.  It  was  a  most  welcome  and  useful  addition 
to  our  outfit  Especially  since  there  are  roads  all 
over  the  country  to  the  principal  villages,  this  was 
helpful  in  evangelistic  work  and  in  visiting  the  out- 
schools,  which  were  on  the  increase.  The  old  days 


354  AFRICA 

of  laborious  tramp  were  more  or  less  in  the  past,  and 
a  new  era  seemed  ushered  in.  Brother  Steigerwald 
put  the  wagon  together  and  added  a  long,  useful 
box  in  front.  Four  oxen  were  then  inspanned  and 
we  tested  it.  It  is  indeed  a  most  satisfactory  and 
comfortable  conveyance  and  adds  much  to  the  en- 
joyment of  the  work. 

While  the  bishop  was  with  us  eleven  more  boys 
were  baptized  and  received  into  church  fellowship. 
The  first  ten  were  all  standing  true,  so  that  our 
number  had  now  increased  to  twenty-one.  There 
were  as  yet  no  girls  or  women  ready  for  baptism, 
but  some  were  beginning  to  accept  Christ  as  their 
Savior. 

As  the  new  church  was  nearly  completed  at  the 
time  of  his  visit,  it  was  thought  advisable  to  dedicate 
this  also  before  his  return.  He  gave  a  most  excel- 
lent sermon  on  the  occasion,  and  we  were  all 
strengthened  by  his  visit  among  us. 


CHAPTER    NINE 
The  Native 

The  most  interesting  thing  in  Africa  is  the  native  him- 
self; the  more  I  see  him  and  study  h'm  the  more  I  re- 
spect him. — Bishop  J.  C.  Hartzell. 

1MOST  heartily  voice  the  sentiment  expressed 
above.    The  study  of  the  native  is  a  most  inter- 
esting one  and  worthy  of  the  best  minds  of  the 
age.     The  latent  power  and  ability  lying  back  of 
some  of  those  crude  exteriors  is  often  marvelous, 
and   the   transformation   often   wrought   by  a   few 
years  of  careful,  sympathetic  training  far  more  than 
repays  for  all  the  labor  expended. 

From  what  has  already  been  given  in  the  preced- 
ing pages,  some  idea  of  the  native  character  may 
be  gleaned,  and  yet  it  is  impossible  to  give  in  such  a 
book  an  adequate  conception  of  the  nature  of  the 
natives.  In  fact,  the  only  way  to  know  them  is  to 
live  among  them,  and  then  one  can  not  be  sure  that 
he  has  the  correct  idea.  The  subject  is  so  many- 
sided,  so  elusive,  and  above  all  so  changing  that  it  is 
doubtful  if  any  one  can  tell  all  there  might  be  given. 
This  twentieth  century  has  produced  three  large 
volumes  on  the  African  native,  which,  in  the  esti- 
mation of  the  general  public,  seem  to  occupy  a  pre- 
eminent position  among  the  many  books  continually 
written.  I  refer  to  "  Thinking  Black,"  by  Daniel 
Crawford ;  "  White  and  Black  in  South  Africa,"  by 
355 


356  AFRICA 

M.  S.  Evans ;  and  "  The  Essential  Kaffir,"  by  Dud- 
ley Kidd.  The  first  is  the  work  of  a  missionary  who 
has  spent  twenty-two  unbroken  years  in  the  heart 
of  the  African  Continent.  The  second  is  the  work 
of  a  politician  who  has  studied  the  native  problem 
deeply  and  sympathetically  from  a  governmental 
standpoint  and  has  given  his  opinions  and  conclu- 
sions in  a  clear  and  convincing  manner.  The  third 
work  might  be  said  to  have  been  written  from  an 
independent  standpoint,  and  is  by  many  Europeans 
in  South  Africa  considered  the  best  thing  written  on 
the  native.  One  who  has  lived  long  in  Africa  might 
be  inclined  to  differ  with  any  one  or  all  of  these 
writers  in  some  points,  but  they  are  all  excellent 
and  well  worthy  of  careful  study. 

I  was  once  speaking  with  an  official  who  had  had 
long  experience  in  dealing  with  native  problems,  and 
whose  opinions  along  these  lines  were  sought  after 
by  others.  I  asked  him,  "  Wherein  do  you  think  lies 
the  chief  difficulty  in  dealing  with  the  native?  "  He 
replied  somewhat  as  follows: 

"  I  think  it  lies  in  this:  that  the  native  so  readily 
responds  to  civilization  and  improvement,  that  he 
comes  up  to  our  highest  expectation  along  some 
lines;  and  then  we,  forgetting  the  generations  of 
barbarism  back  of  him,  think  he  should  measure  up 
tD  our  expectations  along  all  lines.  \Yhen  he  fails 
us  at  some  particular  point  we  become  disgusted 
and  do  not  give  him  credit  for  the  advancement  he 
has  made." 

There  seems  to  be  much  truth  in  the  above  state- 
ment and  it  has  often  been  a  help  to  me  in  dealing 
with  natives.  There  is  something  else  also  which 


MACHA   MISSION  357 

must  not  be  lost  sight  of,  and  that  is  that  as  much 
as  possible  they  should  be  dealt  with  as  individuals. 
Too  often  the  white  man  thinks  the  natives  are  all 
made  over  the  same  mould,  and  that  the  character- 
istics of  one  are  the  characteristics  of  all.  He  will 
often  not  take  the  trouble  to  study  their  individual- 
ity, and  perhaps  he  thinks  they  do  not  have  any. 
This  is  not  surprising.  Europeans  often  visit  New 
York,  remain  a  short  time  and  then  return  home, 
thinking  they  know  Americans,  and  can  be  found 
prating  of  how  Americans  do.  If  people  come  to 
such  superficial  conclusions  about  such  a  hetero- 
geneous mass  of  humanity  as  exists  in  the  United 
States  of  America,  it  is  not  surprising  that  one  or 
two  natives  in  the  eyes  of  many  white  people  stand 
as  a  type  of  all  Africans. 

The  writer  has  had  an  opportunity  of  studying 
the  natives  of  four  or  five  tribes  and  has  come  into 
contact  in  various  ways  with  several  other  tribes, 
yet  she  feels  that  her  knowledge  of  the  native  char- 
acter is  in  many  respects  superficial  and  unsatis- 
factory. It  has  this  to  recommend  it,  however,  that 
it  is  gleaned  at  first  hand  from  many  years'  resi- 
dence among  the  raw  and  semi-civilized  Africans. 

We  have  tried  to  show  that  the  natives  differ 
greatly  in  their  ability  to  learn  in  school  and  out  of 
it,  in  their  habits  of  cleanliness,  and  in  their  readi- 
ness to  receive  the  Gospel.  As  there  was  a  large 
number  of  boys  about  us  day  by  day,  we  found  that 
they  also  greatly  differed  in  disposition,  as  much  so 
as  white  people,  and  it  was  necessary  to  study  the 
characteristic  of  each  in  dealing  with  them.  They 
soon  understand  if  the  missionary  respects  and 


358  AFRICA 

trusts  them ;  and  they  readily  respond  to  such  treat- 
ment and  show  by  their  conduct  that  such  confi- 
dence is  not  misplaced.  On  the  other  hand,  if  they 
are  censured  for  a  fault,  especially  if  they  think  the 
censure  is  unjust,  they  soon  become  careless  and 
discouraged.  On  account  of  their  secluded  and 
simple  life  they,  even  the  grown  ones,  are  much 
like  children  when  they  first  come  into  contact  with 
white  people,  and  they  fail  to  understand  why  two 
persons  should  treat  them  differently — why  two 
missionaries  or  two  masters  should  not  have  the 
same  way  of  doing  things,  the  same  generosity  and 
the  same  dispositions. 

Child-life  of  these  dark-skinned  Africans  is  in 
some  respects  not  so  different  from  that  of  their 
white  neighbors,  unless  it  is  in  its  greater  freedom. 
Until  it  learns  to  walk,  the  child  spends  much  of  its 
time  on  its  mother's  or  older  sister's  back,  tied  by  a 
skin  with  its  face  toward  the  mother.  In  the  early 
days  at  Matopo,  Matshuba  once  inquired  how  our 
mother  carried  us  when  we  were  children.  We  said 
she  carried  us  on  her  arms.  He  nodded  his  head 
sagely  and  exclaimed,  "  That  explains  it.  That  is 
why  your  noses  are  long  and  straight  and  ours  are 
flat." 

On  the  mother's  back  the  child  sleeps  and  coos 
and  observes  what  goes  on  about  it.  Here  it  bobs 
up  and  down  as  the  mother  handles  the  hoe,  stamps 
or  grinds  the  meal,  or  goes  about  her  cooking.  Here 
it  takes  rides  as  the  mother  goes  after  wood  or  wa- 
ter, or  on  long  journeys  to  visit  her  friends.  Occa- 
sionally she  removes  it  from  her  back,  straightens 
out  its  cramped  limbs,  feeds  it,  and  then  places  it 


MACHA  MISSION 


359 


360  AFRICA 

on  the  ground  to  play.  It  has  no  garments  to  im- 
pede its  progress,  and  so  it  soon  learns  to  help  it- 
self, crawls  about  and  picks  up  earth  or  whatever 
comes  in  its  way  and  eats  it,  no  one  objecting. 

As  it  becomes  older  the  freedom  is  still  greater, 
especially  if  it  is  a  boy.  There  is  no  school  to  con- 
fine him,  no  hard  lessons,  no  table  manners,  no  daily 
washings,  oftentimes.  He  runs,  he  hunts,  he  fishes, 
he  plays  often  the  long  day  through,  together  with 
the  other  little  ones  of  the  village.  He  has  no  clock 
to  tell  him  the  time  of  the  day,  except  the  great  orb 
above  him,  and  this  he  learns  to  read  with  surpris- 
ing accuracy.  As  it  sinks  in  the  west,  he  comes 
with  his  assegais  and  faithful  dogs,  and  with  a  rabbit 
or  some  birds,  carried  on  a  stick  across  his  shoulders, 
proudly  displaying  his  prowess  in  hunting.  He 
makes  bows  and  arrows,  popguns,  plays  hockey  and 
other  games,  makes  clay  animals,  wagons,  and  many 
other  things.  In  fact,  some  native  boys  are  genuine 
artists,  and  it  is  a  pleasure  to  watch  them  deftly 
mould  animals  of  various  kinds. 

His  sister  will  have  her  doll,  made  from  a  stick 
of  wood,  a  corncob,  or  the  like,  and  tie  it  on  her 
back,  like  her  mamma  does.  She  plays  at  house- 
keeping, grinding,  cooking,  and  imitating  her  elders, 
the  same  as  her  white  sisters  do.  She  is  also  expect- 
ed to  help  take  care  of  the  baby  and  younger  mem- 
bers of  the  family,  as  her  brother  is  often  expected 
to  herd  the  cattle  or  sheep,  for  there  are  no  fences 
to  confine  them.  All  of  these  children,  however, 
often  suffer  from  hunger,  cold,  and  nakedness,  and 
worst  of  all  they  generally  indulge  in  many  evils 
which  cling  to  them  and  greatly  retard  their  prog- 


MACHA   MISSION  361 

ress  when  light  comes  to  them.  They  also  become 
quite  cruel  and  unfeeling  about  giving  pain  to  ani- 
mals and  birds.  Every  accessible  bird's  nest  is 
robbed  and  the  young  birds,  partly  plucked,  are 
thrown,  often  while  still  alive,  on  the  live  coals  to 
roast  and  furnish  them  a  dainty  morsel.  When  a 
bird  is  secured  there  is  not  the  least  compunction 
about  plucking  off  all  the  feathers  without  killing 
the  bird.  Once,  when  I  was  lying  sick  in  bed,  the 
four  girls  staying  at  the  mission  came  in  laughing 
and  carrying  the  fledgling  of  a  secretary  bird.  It 
was  about  the  size  of  a  half-grown  chicken,  and  had 
all  the  feathers  plucked  from  it  while  it  was  alive, 
and  in  this  condition  it  was  still  blinking  with  its 
big,  solemn-looking  eyes.  The  brother  of  one  had 
brought  it  in  this  condition,  and  to  them  it  was  a 
good  joke  to  see  it  thus. 

As  one  enters  the  raw  African's  village  and  sees 
the  native  in  the  midst  of  his  filthy  and  uncouth 
surroundings,  lacking  seemingly  the  very  necessi- 
ties of  life,  he  readily  concludes  that  the  African  is 
lazy,  shiftless,  lacking  in  resources,  and  exceedingly 
dull  or  he  would  have  advanced  further  in  civiliza- 
tion even  before  the  advent  of  the  white  man.  To 
a  certain  extent  this  is  true,  for  even  the  native, 
after  he  is  somewhat  civilized  and  looks  back  to 
where  he  came  from,  has  been  heard  to  exclaim, 
"  We  must  be  the  dullest  people  on  earth.  Others 
could  read  and  write  and  knew  something  of  civili- 
zation, but  we  Africans  knew  nothing."  We  need, 
however,  but  to  look  back  to  our  own  Celtic  and 
Teutonic  ancestry  to  see  barbarism  and  illiteracy. 

The  African  pagan  cannot  be  said  to  be  lacking  in 


362  AFRICA 

resources,  however.  He  wishes  fire  and  he  goes  and 
selects  two  suitable  twigs  of  wood.  Into  one  he 
cuts  a  notch  and  the  other  he  points.  Placing  the 
first  on  the  ground,  he  inserts  the  point  of  the  other 
into  the  notch  and  twirls  it  rapidly  between  his 
hands  until  it  strikes  fire.  At  the  same  time  he  has 
on  hand  some  inflammable  substance  upon  which  he 
places  the  fire  and  soon. has  a  blaze.  He  can  thus 
roast  his  fish  or  meat.  He  wishes  cooking  vessels ; 
and  the  woman  goes  to  the  river  and  procures  the 
proper  kind  of  clay,  which  she  mixes  with  water 
and  works  until  it  is  the  required  consistency.  She 
then  takes  a  piece,  and  with  deft  fingers  moulds  it 
into  a  circle,  and  places  it  on  a  stone  or  piece  of 
broken  crockery.  She  adds  more  and  more  clay, 
carefully  shaping  it  with  her  hands  as  she  proceeds 
upward  until  the  top  is  finished.  Then  she  puts  it 
aside  for  a  while  until  the  clay  sets  and  becomes 
slightly  dried,  after  which  she  carefully  removes 
and  turns  it  and  moulds  the  bottom,  and  when  dried 
she  burns  it.  In  this  way  she  makes  earthen  pots  of 
many  kinds  and  sizes,  from  the  dainty  small  ones, 
which  are  often  nicely  glazed  and  artistically 
marked,  to  the  large,  heavy  beer  pots,  holding  ten  or 
twelve  gallons. 

Weapons  for  war,  hunting,  and  domestic  purposes 
are  needed.  The  man  goes  to  the  hills  and  digs  un- 
til he  finds  the  iron  ore.  He  smelts  it  and  with  the 
iron  thus  obtained  makes  axes,  assegais,  hoes,  and 
other  useful  implements.  He  burns  wood  and  makes 
charcoal  for  his  forge.  His  bellows  are  made  from  the 
skins  of  animals  and  the  pipes  are  clay  tile ;  and  the 
anvil  and  hammers  are  also  pieces  of  the  iron  he  has 


MACHA  MISSION  363 

obtained.  He  moulds,  welds,  shapes,  and  performs 
all  the  work  of  the  ordinary  blacksmith.  If  his  hoe 
wears  out  he  will  take" the  iron  that  is  left  and  shape 
it  into  an  assegai  bristling  with  points.  With  three 
or  four  of  these  and  a  shield  made  of  hide,  he  will 
go  out  to  fight  his  neighbor,  or  perhaps  he  will  have 
bow  and  steel-tipped  arrows,  which  he  dips  in  a 
poisonous  substance  to  ensure  their  deadly  work. 

Or,  if  it  is  in  time  of  peace,  he  makes  use  of  his 
assegais  and  his  faithful  dog  and  supplies,  his  house- 
hold with  meat.  If  he  has  been  fortunate  enough  to 
secure  an  old  blunderbuss  of  a  gun,  he  tinkers  at  it 
till  it  works.  He  may  not  be  able  by  law  to  buy  any 
ammunition  from  the  white  man,  or  even  lead  to 
make  bullets;  but  he  will  manage  in  some  way  to 
obtain  some  ammunition.  Perhaps  the  chance  pos- 
session of  a  nail,  or  solder  melted  from  a  tin  can, 
will,  by  a  laborious  process,  be  turned  into  bullets, 
for  time  is  no  object  to  him  when  working  for  him- 
self. In  the  same  way  he  will  secure  some  gun- 
powder or  the  ingredients  for  it,  either  by  barter 
with  his  neighbors,  who  have  been  to  town,  or  else- 
where. 

He  wishes  fish,  and  he  will  spear  or  catch  them 
with  hooks,  or  his  wife  will,  with  willowlike  twigs 
and  bark  strings,  make  a  long  troughlike  net,  and 
as  the  water  subsides  she  will  supply  her  household 
with  fish.  Both  fish  and  meat  are  dried  and  pre- 
served for  future  consumption. 

The  native  wishes  a  hut  to  live  in.  He  goes  to 
the  forest  and  with  the  axe  cuts  down  poles  and 
carries  them  home,  and  with  his  hoe  digs  a  trench 
into  which  he  places  them.  With  some  forked 


364 


AFRICA 


MACHA  MISSION  365 

sticks  he  makes  a  neat  doorframe.  Thin,  willowy 
poles  are  also  brought  and  split  through  the  center, 
and  one  piece  is  placed  on  the  outside  and  one  inside 
of  the  poles  of  the  hutf  and  with  bark  strings'  he 
firmly  ties  these  together  and  thus  secures  the  poles 
in  their  places.  They  are  also  fastened  at  the  top 
in  a  similar  manner,  so  that  the  walls  of  the  hut 
are  firmly  fastened  together,  for  of  course  his  hut  is 
round.  With  his  method  of  building  he  is  wise  in 
making  it  round,  as  it  is  more  easily  done  and 
stronger  when  completed.  The  slender,  straight 
poles  for  the  roof  are  fastened  together  in  the  same 
way.  These  are  often  extended  beyond  the  walls  so 
as  to  form  a  veranda,  which  may  or  may  not  be  en- 
closed. The  wife  takes  her  hoe  or  assegai  and  cuts 
grass  to  thatch  the  hut.  She  also  takes  some  of  the 
beautiful  long  grass,  and  with  bark  string  makes  a 
large  mat  to  form  a  partition  to  separate  the  bed- 
room from  the  living-room.  They  need  a  bed  and 
the  man  will  procure  forked  sticks  and  fasten  them 
firmly  in  the  ground  as  bedposts,  and  on  this  with 
poles,  reeds,  bark  string,  and  animal  hides  he  makes 
a  bed.  Skins  may  also  be  used  for  blankets,  and  if 
they  should  be  lacking  in  these  they  build  a  fire  or 
place  a  pan  of  coals  underneath  or  near  the  bed. 
Some  Africans  weave  blankets  and  some  make  them 
out  of  the  inner  bark  of  the  trees;  others  purchase 
from  traders. 

The  native  needs  a  chair,  so  he  goes  to  the  forest 
and,  selecting  a  certain  kind  of  tree,  he  cuts  a  suit- 
able block  of  wood.  With  his  little  axe  he  hews  and 
cuts  until  from  a  solid  block  of  wood  he  makes  a 
very  respectable-looking  chair,  or  stool,  varying  in 


366  AFRICA 

height  from  six  to  fourteen  inches.  In  the  same 
way  he  makes  spoons,  stamping  blocks,  dishes,  and 
other  household  articles.  These  he  carefully  oils  to 
prevent  cracking,  and  often  colors  and  ornaments 
them.  The  natives  along  the  large  rivers  make  their 
own  dugout  canoes.  A  large  gourd  or  earthen  jar 
answers  for  a  water  bucket,  one  with  a  long  handle 
for  a  dipper,  a  very  large  one  with  woven  top  is 
used  for  a  churn,  a  long  one  as  a  butter  receptable, 
and  a  very  small  one  for  a  snuffbox.  A  small  piece 
of  iron,  nicely  shaped  and  beaten  thin,  is  snuff  spoon 
and  handkerchief. 

A  large  flat  stone,  built  in  a  clay  receptacle  with 
an  earthen  jar  at  the  end,  is  the  mill,  and  on  this 
another  stone  is  used  to  grind.  The  wife  needs 
baskets.  She  procures  palm  leaves,  bark  string, 
reeds,  and  willows  and  makes  baskets  of  various 
kinds :  a  flat  one  for  a  sieve,  dainty  little  ones  for 
plates  for  their  stiff  porridge,  larger  ones  for  grain, 
and  still  larger  ones  for  reaping.  She  also  makes 
mats  of  various  kinds.  Skins  of  animals  do  for 
clothing.  They  are  so  confident  that  this  is  the 
native  invention,  that  one  of  the  boys,  in  reading  of 
the  garments  of  our  first  parents,  declared  they 
must  have  been  black  because  they  wore  skins.  The 
girls'  loincloth  is  made  of  bark  string.  Their  clay 
pipes  are  often  quite  artistically  made,  and  so  hard 
that  it  is  difficult  to  distinguish  them  from  metal. 

In  all  of  these  things  just  mentioned  the  native  is 
in  no  way  dependent  upon  the  European ;  they  are 
of  his  own  invention  and  manufacture,  except  the 
rifle.  It  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  any  one  native 
makes  all  the  various  articles.  There  are  black- 


MACHA   MISSION  367 

smiths,  potters,  basketmakers,  and  workers  in  wood, 
and  the  rest  barter  for  or  buy  the  things  they  need. 

Given  various  colored  beads,  some  fine  and  some 
heavy  wire,  a  few  buttons,  shells,  and  ivory  rings, 
and  they  are  adept  at  adorning  the  body,  at  least 
according  to  the  native's  idea  of  beauty.  In  some 
respects  the  barbarous  African's  idea  of  ornamenta- 
tion does  not  differ  materially  from  that  of  her  white 
sisters,  the  difference  being  one  of  degree  rather 
than  of  kind.  The  American  beauty  thinks  one  or 
two  strings  of  beads  around  her  neck  are  quite  the 
proper  thing,  and  add  to  her  charm.  The  African 
beauty  will  tell  you  that  if  one  or  two  are  nice,  four 
or  five  are  nicer.  It  is  the  same  with  the  bracelets ; 
the  American  belle  is  pleased  with  one  or  two  on 
her  wrists.  The  African  is  likewise,  but  she  is  bet- 
ter pleased  with  a  dozen,  only  she  adds  utility  to 
beauty  and  thinks  that  a  lot  of  heavy  rings  around 
her  wrists  or  ankles  add  to  their  strength  and  give 
her  corresponding  value  in  the  eyes  of  the  opposite 
sex.  Then  too  she  will  tell  you  that  her  god  told 
her  to  adorn  herself  thus,  which  is  doubtless  true. 

What  has  been  said  of  inventive  ability  applies 
more  or  less  to  all  pagan  Africans,  although  in  dif- 
ferent sections  of  the  country  they  differ  somewhat 
in  their  work.  The  Batonga,  by  whom  we  are  sur- 
rounded, do  not  at  present  remove  the  iron  from  the 
ore,  but  there  are  many  blacksmiths  among  them, 
and  according  to  some  of  the  old  natives  they  were 
accustomed  to  smelt  the  ore.  There  are  certainly 
evidences  of  iron  workings  in  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try. Brother  Taylor  made  inquiry  of  an  old  native 
in  reference  to  these  workings.  He  said  that  many 


368  AFRICA 

years  ago  the  Batonga  used  to  work  them  and  thus 
obtain  their  own  iron.  Then  their  Barotse  conquer- 
ors came  and  killed  all  the  iron  workers  and  told 
them  to  come  to  the  Barotse  and  purchase  their  iron. 
No  doubt  this  was  done  to  weaken  them  in  battle. 
(See  1  Samuel  13:  19-22.)  In  this  instance  the 
smiths  remained,  but  they  go  to  the  Barotse  to  pur- 
chase hoes  and  pig  iron.  Since  the  old  ones  were 
killed,  the  younger  generation  were  afraid  to  smelt 
the  ore. 

All  the  Africans  brew  their  own  beer.  They 'also 
grow  tobacco,  which  they  both  smoke  and  snuff, 
and  they  grow  a  kind  of  hemp  which  they  smoke. 
Of  course  they  raise  their  own  food,  and  before  the 
arrival  of  the  white  man  some  even  procured  their 
own  salt. 

As  to  the  general  character  of  the  raw  natives — 
for  it  is  of  them  we  are  writing — we  hesitate  some- 
times to  tell  what  we  do  know.  But  the  missionary, 
however  much  he  may  think  of  the  Africans  and 
enjoy  his  work  among  them,  cannot,  dare  not,  be 
blind  to  their  faults.  It  has  been  said  of  them  that 
they  are  naturally  liars,  thieves,  and  harlots;  a  hard 
saying,  truly,  but  there  is  a  measure  of  truth  in  it. 
As  a  people  there  is  little  or  no  reliance  to  be  placed 
on  their  word,  especially  when  they  desire  to  shield 
tiiemselves,  their  relatives,  or  even  their  tribes. 
Possibly  a  native  may  tell  an  untruth  for  the  mere 
pleasure  of  it.  This  habit  is  so  inbred  that  it  is  dif- 
ficult to  overcome  it ;  and  yet  by  careful  religious 
training,  and  the  power  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  one  is 
frequently  surprised  at  the  progress  they  make  in 
speaking  the  truth  under  very  trying  conditions — 


MACHA  MISSION  369 

that  is,  when  they  are  led  to  see  the  evil  of  the  op- 
posite course. 

Thieving  is  probably  not  so  prominent,  but  it 
exists,  not  only,  as  some  affirm,  among  the  half- 
civilized,  but  also  among  the  raw  heathen.  Every 
missionary,  who  has  seen  heathen  accepting  the 
Light  and  confessing  their  past,  can  testify  to  the 
truthfulness  of  this  statement.  Many  instances  of 
stealing  among  them  can  be  cited.  I  was  told  by  a 
farmer,  who  was  living  in  the  midst  of  pagan  Afri- 
cans, untouched  by  civilization  or  the  Gospel,  that 
one  year  he  employed  about  100  women  to  gather 
his  corn.  He  suspected  them  of  stealing,  but  said 
nothing  until  one  evening,"  just  as  they  were  starting 
for  home,  he  suddenly  rode  in  among  them  and 
frightened  them.  The  corn  which  they  had  care- 
fully concealed  about  them  was  scattered  in  all  di- 
rections. 

Stealing,  however,  is  not  as  common  as  lying ;  for 
while  there  does  not  seem  to  be  a  strong  public 
sentiment  against  the  latter,  there  is  against  the  for- 
mer, for  the  protection  of  their  property.  Those 
who  flagrantly  disregard  this  are  branded  as  thieves 
and  are  sometimes  punished.  I  know  one  native 
who  was  required  by  his  heathen  neighbors  to  pay 
ten  hoes  for  visiting  their  grain  bins.  Generally, 
however,  grain,  either  in  the  gardens  or  in  the  gran- 
aries, is  not  disturbed  by  others,  and  one  may  allow 
property  to  remain  exposed  year  after  year  and  it 
not  be  disturbed.  The  white  man's  law  against 
thieving  greatly  assists  the  native  in  the  enforce- 
ment of  his  law.  We  have  found  some  very  trust- 
worthy natives,  and  none  who  have  been  with  us 


370  AFRICA 

any  length  of  time  have  proven  dishonest,  and  they 
are  frequently  sent  to  carry  sums  of  money  without 
in  any  way  tampering  with  it. 

As  to  other  forms  of  vice  what  shall  one  say?  One 
European  has  been  heard  to  exclaim  that  "  their 
morals  are  as  black  as  their  faces."  That  they  are 
dark  no  one  can  deny,  for  from  childhood  up  vice 
in  many  forms  is  common.  It  could  scarcely  be 
otherwise  when  one  considers  the  filth  and  degrada- 
tion of  their  surroundings,  where  a  number  are 
crowded  like  so  many  animals  into  a  filthy  hut,  over- 
run with  vermin  and  parasites  of  all  kinds.  Some 
will  tell  you  that  there  are  none  pure.  It  is  true  that 
the  lives  they  lead  give  little  opportunity  for  any- 
thing elevating.  Then  too  their  lives  are  open  to 
the  general  gaze ;  nothing  is  hid. 

But  take  the  modern  city ;  dig  it  up  from  the  foun- 
dation ;  open  all  its  cesspools  of  infamy,  crime,  and 
debauchery,  and  such  a  stench  will  ascend  to  heaven 
that  everyone  beholding  will  cry  out,  "  Babylon,  the 
mother  of  harlots  and  abominations  of  the  earth !  " 
And  yet  this  is  the  boasted  twentieth-century  civili- 
zation. Shall  we,  then,  say  that  there  are  no  Chris- 
tians in  that  city,  or  that  there  are  none  living  good 
moral  lives  who  do  not  profess  Christ?  God  forbid ! 
All  honor  to  the  noble  band  of  men  and  women  in 
our  cities  who,  in  the  midst  of  fearful  odds,  are  liv- 
ing upright  lives  and  helping  their  fellow-men. 

I  believe  I  can  safely  say,  from  what  I  have  seen 
and  learned  of  the  inner  life  of  the  native,  that  in 
dark,  heathen  Africa,  even  before  the  light  of  the 
Gospel  penetrates,  there  are  those  who  are  moral 
and  pure,  although  the  number  is  small.  Then  take 


MACHA   MISSION  371 

the  Christian  natives ;  the  life  of  many  a  one  is  a 
living  rebuke  to  some-.who  decry  mission  work,  and 
it  is  too  often  because  they  are  a  living  rebuke,  that 
they  are  so  fiercely  hated  by  some  Europeans.  Peo- 
ple usually  find  what  they  are  looking  for,  and  in 
Africa  is  no  exception. 


CHAPTER  TEN 
The  Native — Continued 

BEGGARS  the  Africans  naturally  are,  and 
when  the  white  man  comes  among  them 
they  are  always  eager  to  obtain  all  they  can 
for  nothing.  They  beg  of  one  another;  then  why 
should  they  not  beg  of  the  white  man,  whose  pock- 
ets are  supposed  to  be  full  of  money?  Then  too 
some  of  them  think  the  white  man  does  not  need 
money  to  buy  food,  clothing,  and  other  goods  from 
the  store.  They  will  say,  "  You  do  not  need  money 
to  buy  things.  You  just  write  something  on  a  piece 
of  paper  and  send  it  to  Bulawayo  and  the  goods 
come."  Experience  has  taught  us  that  the  greatest 
good  one  can  do  the  native  is  to  make  him  work  or 
pay  for  everything  he  receives,  unless  it  should  be 
during  a*  case  of  sickness  or  helplessness. 

It  is  a  common  expression  that  the  African  is 
lazy;  and  yet  even  this  must  be  accepted  with  a  re- 
serve and  an  understanding  of  his  surroundings. 
Aside  from  the  effect  of  the  climate,  much  of  their 
indolence  and  indifference  is  due  to  their  smoking 
of  hemp,  a  narcotic  drug,  similar  to  the  hashish  of 
eastern  countries.  This  they  grow,  and  it  is  a  com- 
mon practice  for  the  older,  and  for  even  young  boys, 
to  smoke  it.  It  seems  to  sap  their  very  life  and  take 
away  all  the  ambition  to  better  their  condition.  Yet 
the  native  can  and  does  work  even  in  his  home, 
372 


MACHA  MISSION  373 

when  occasion  demands.  During  the  digging  and 
growing  season  they  axe  found  out  in  their  gardens, 
which  are  generally  at  a  distance  from  the  villages, 
from  early  morning  until  late  at  night,  hoeing  and 
watching  their  crops  to  protect  them  from  the  rav- 
ages of  the  animals  and  birds.  During  the  hottest 
part  of  the  day  they  generally  stop  for  a  time  to 
rest  and  cook.  It  is  useless  to  attempt  much  evan- 
gelistic work  during  this  season  of  the  year,  except 
at  night,  for  the  villages  are  about  deserted  during 
the  day. 

They  may,  during  the  dry  season,  work  for  Euro- 
peans, but  with  some  a  short  time  of  such  work  suf- 
fices, as  their  wants  are  few.  As  one  fellow  ex- 
pressed it:  "  I  have  now  sufficient  money  to  pay  my 
taxes.  I  only  want  to  work  long  enough  to  earn 
money  to  buy  a  blanket  and  then  my  needs  are  all 
supplied."  If  they  have  food  on  hand,  that  is  the 
extent  of  the  ambition  of  some  natives.  They  feel 
that  then,  during  the  dry  season,  or  winter,  they  are 
entitled  to  rest,  hunt,  smoke,  drink  beer  and  palaver. 

Frequently,  however,  they  must  build  in  the  dry 
season,  for  one  of  their  huts  in  this  ant-ridden  coun- 
try lasts  only  a  short  time — perhaps  two  or  three 
years — and  then  another  must  be  built.  This  is  no 
small  task,  but  it  is  usually  postponed  until  near  the 
rainy  season.  In  order  to  build,  the  native  is  obliged 
to  make  frequent  trips  to  the  forest  to  procure  suit- 
able poles  and  bark  strings,  all  of  which  he  must  car- 
ry on  his  shoulders.  His  wife  too  is  inclined  to 
postpone  cutting  the  thatch  grass  until  it  is  nearly 
all  burnt,  and  then  it  requires  much  more  labor  to 
find  enough  thatch  than  if  she  had  done  the  work 


374  AFRICA 

at  the  proper  time.  The  rain  usually  is  threatening, 
or  even  the  first  has  fallen  before  the  man  begins 
the  actual  building,  and  then  he  and  his  neighbors 
hurry  and  put  up  the  huts  after  a  fashion.  "When 
asked  why  he  does  not  build  earlier  in  the  season  he 
naively  exclaims,  "Oh!  I  leave  it  until  the  rains 
come,  so  I  must  hurry  and  build  it."  In  other  words, 
he  puts  it  off  until  he  is  forced  to  do  it,  willy-nilly. 
As  a  rule  the  native  is  never  in  a  hurry ;  he  always 
performs  his  work  deliberately.  That  is  character- 
istic of  the  country,  or  climate,  rather  than  of  the 
individual,  because  no  one  in  Africa  seems  to  be  in 
a  hurry.  We  had  our  first  lesson  in  this  on  the 
threshold  of  the  continent.  Just  after  we  had 
reached  Cape  Town  and  had  rented  rooms,  some 
groceries  were  bought  and  ordered  to  be  sent  to 
the  house.  They  were  very  slow  in  coming,  and  we 
mentioned  the  fact  to  an  American  lady  who  had 
resided  at  Cape  Town  five  years.  She  replied,  "  We 
are  all  slow  in  Africa,  and  in  a  few  years  you  will 
become  slow  too."  I  cannot  say  that  this  has  be- 
come true  of  all  our  missionaries,  but  this  is  the  gen- 
eral effect  of  the  country.  The  atmosphere,  the  heat, 
and  the  diseases,  all  have  much  influence  on  a  per- 
son. To  hurry  and  violently  exert  the  body  in  or- 
der to  complete  a  piece  of  work  often  brings  on  an 
attack  of  fever.  Horses,  mules,  oxen,  and  donkeys 
are  not  as  hardy  as  in  temperate  climates,  and  it  re- 
quires several  times  the  number  to  do  the  same 
amount  of  work,  so  that  it  need  not  surprise  one 
that  the  natives,  who,  as  far  back  as  they  know, 
have  lived  amid  such  surroundings,  should  be  slow 
and  indolent. 


MACHA   MISSION  375 

There  are  three  natives  in  our  nearest  village,  all 
able-bodied  men  of  about  40  or  45  years  of  age. 
Two  of  them  have  four  wives  and  one  has  three. 
Since  the  hut  tax  is  ten  shillings  a  hut,  that  means 
that  one  must  pay  thirty  shillings  (nearly  $7.50)  tax 
per  year,  and  the  other  two  forty  shillings  (nearly 
$10).  They  are  all  intelligent-looking  natives.  Two 
of  them  have  been  government  messengers  and 
know  something  of  European  life.  Now  they  are 
at  home  year  after  year,  for  they  seldom  go  away 
to  work,  because  they  are  too  lazy.  How  they  se- 
cure their  hut  tax  is  often  a  query,  and  about  the 
only  solution  that  seems  possible  is  that  they  beg 
some  here  and  some  there  of  natives  who  go  away 
to  work,  and  they  may  occasionally  have  a  little 
grain  to  sell.  Often  they  are  short  of  food  for  them- 
selves and  their  families.  One  of  them  at  least  has 
had  his  family  out  on  the  veldt,  living  on  fruit  and 
roots  and  what  game  he  could  procure,  for  two 
months  at  a  time.  These  are  extreme  cases,  and  one 
must  feel  sorry  for  the  women  and  children  when 
crops  fail,  for  they  at  least  cannot  go  among  the 
Europeans  for  work. 

The  natives  differ  greatly  among  themselves  in 
diligence  and  training  as  well  as  in  character  and 
morality.  While  there  are  always  some  improvi- 
dent ones,  who  live  on  the  charity  of  their  neighbors, 
yet  some  are  exceedingly  industrious  the  entire 
year.  After  their  grain  has  been  cared  for  they  go 
to  the  towns  to  work  and  earn  money,  buy  cattle 
and  sheep,  and  in  general  enrich  themselves.  Work- 
ers in  wood  are  always  busy  making  articles  to  sell 
to  their  neighbors,  and  other  artizans  do  likewise. 


376  AFRICA 

The  women  also  show  the  same  difference  of  char- 
acter. Some  are  always  busy  and  forehanded  with 
their  gardens,  their  grass  cutting,  and  cutting  and 
carrying  firewood  to  stow  it  away  before  the  rains 
come.  The  same  difference  is  to  be  found  in  the 
training  of  families. 

In  some  of  the  homes  the  children  are  well  trained 
along  industrial  lines,  according  to  the  native  idea 
of  training.  The  parents  require  them  to  work  and 
bear  a  certain  amount  of  responsibility  in  providing 
for  the  family  and  in  caring  for  the  herds.  For  in- 
stance, a  number  of  our  best  boys  came  from  a  vil- 
lage called  Mianda.  They  proved  very  helpful  and 
skillful  in  work  and  became  some  of  our  best  build- 
ers and  teachers.  Their  parents  were  generally  con- 
siderate when  we  had  dealings  with  them.  Some- 
times we  had  as  many  as  ten  boys  at  once  from  that 
one  small  village,  and  the  father  of  some  would  even 
help  to  see  about  his  herds  so  that  his  children 
might  attend  school.  If  a  boy  was  needed  at  home 
to  help  build  or  herd,  the  father  would  tell  for  just 
how  long  he  was  needed,  and  we  might  be  sure  that 
he  would  send  the  boy  back  at  the  expiration  of  that 
time.  The  children  of  this  village  were  required 
to  be  obedient  and  work  while  at  home,  otherwise 
they  were  denied  food.  There  were  other  similar 
homes.  In  the  villages,  even  before  Christianity  en- 
ters, the  natives  look  upon  some  of  the  customs  of 
their  tribes  in  various  ways.  Where  there  are  large 
villages  and  many  people,  dances  and  carousals  are 
frequent  occurrences  and. much  immorality  results. 
Some  of  the  parents  forbid  their  children  frequent- 


MACHA  MISSION  377 

ing  these  places  of  amusement  on  account  of  the 
immorality. 

Again,  from  some  villages  boys  would  come  to 
the  mission,  stay  only  a  few  days  and  then  leave, 
because  they  were  obliged  to  perform  a  certain 
amount  of  work  daily.  We  did  not  try  to  coax  them 
to  remain,  for  we  preferred  to  keep  only  those  who 
were  willing  to  work — the  others  seldom  amount  to 
anything.  Go  into  the  houses  of  some  such  boys, 
and  one  would  see  them  lying  about,  not  willing  to 
herd,  much  less  dig.  Perhaps  the  father  will  say, 
"  Go  and  see  about  those  sheep."  The  boy  pays  no 
attention  to  the  command.  The  mother  comes  and 
scolds  him  and  seeks  to  make  him  work,  but  with  no 
better  result ;  yet  when  food  is  prepared  he  is  the 
first  one  to  be  around  the  pot  and  no  one  forbids 
him.  From  these  instances  it  can  be  readily  seen 
that  African  family  training  does  not  differ  ma- 
terially from  European  or  American. 

In  many  of  the  villages  there  are  always  some 
who  desire  to  improve  themselves  and  better  their 
conditions.  They  have  their  gardens,  but,  work  as 
they  may  with  their  primitive  little  hoes,  they  can- 
not make  much  headway;  or  there  may  be  a  drought 
and  famine  is  the  result.  They  go  away  and  work 
for  a  time,  and  come  home  with  a  supply  of  clothing 
and  some  money.  They  come  to  their  dirty  homes 
and  filthy  surroundings,  and  their  friends  and  rela- 
tives try  to  get  as  much  of  their  clothing  and  money 
as  possible.  They  gradually  become  more  and  more 
sordid  in  appearance,  their  clothing  disappears,  and 
we  become  disgusted  with  them  for  so  soon  leaving 
behind  the  outward  marks  of  civilization.  But  how 


378  AFRICA 

many  months  could  we  live  their  home  life  and  be 
presentable  in  appearance? 

Let  us  take  Charlie  as  an  example.  He,  with  a 
number  of  other  boys,  went  to  Southern  Rhodesia 
to  work  on  a  farm.  He  remained  a  year  and  re- 
ceived fifteen  shillings  ($3.60)  per  month,  and  he 
had  to  pay  his  way  down  and  back  on  the  train.  He 
came  home  at  the  end  of  the  year  with  a  nice  supply 
of  new  clothing  and  some  money,  and  he  looked  as 
clean  and  well-dressed  as  a  European  when  he  came 
to  Church  on  Sunday.  He  is  a  Christian  boy  and  is 
trying  to  do  what  is  right.  Soon  after  his  return 
home,  his  father,  who  is  one  of  the  three  lazy  men  I 
mentioned,  and  extremely  filthy  in  appearance,  be- 
gan wearing  Charlie's  clothes.  First  it  was  a  shirt 
and  a  piece  of  calico ;  then  another  garment ;  then  his 
nice  grey  coat.  Charlie  gave  his  little  naked  brother 
one  of  his  shirts.  He  wished  to  marry,  and  this  took 
all  of  his  money.  In  a  few  months  he  presented 
quite  a  different  appearance  from  what  he  did  on  his 
return  home  from  Bulawayo,  and  we  began  to 
blame  him,  at  least  in  our  minds,  and  say  that  he 
should  not  allow  himself  to  degenerate  in  this  way. 
But  most  of  his  clothing  is  gone  and  his  money  is 
gone;  he  does  not  even  have  sufficient  with  which  to 
purchase  soap,  so  that  he  may  wash  the  remaining 
clothing. 

Says  one,  "  He  should  keep  at  work  and  not  come 
and  sit  down  in  his  home."  The  work  takes  him  away 
from  home,  and  his  wages  are  low,  so  that  he  must 
keep  at  it  continually  in  order  to  maintain  appear- 
ances. May  he  not  have  any  home  life  at  all?  It  is 
a  perplexing  problem,  and  were  we  forced  to  take 


MACHA  MISSION  379 

his  place  we  would  no  doubt  conclude  that  the  boy 
does  remarkably  well  under  the  circumstances. 
While  at  home  he  works  in  his  gardens  and  does 
what  he  can  find  to  do  for  the  white  men  near  his 
home ;  then,  as  his  needs  increase,  he  again  goes  to 
Bulawayo  to  begin  again.  This  is  an  actual  occur- 
rence and  typical  of  many  others.  He  may  conclude 
to  have  no  home  life,  but  keep  up  the  semblance  of 
civilization,  hang  about  the  towns,  and  imitate  many 
evils  surrounding  him,  and  in  the  end  prove  a  great- 
er menace  to  society  and  to  the  country  than  if  he 
would,  at  least  part  of  the  time,  live  in  his  own  home 
in  a  more  primitive  manner.  Again,  if  he  depends 
too  much  on  the  stores  of  the  traders,  he  ceases  to 
manufacture  articles  for  himself,  so  that  if  he  does 
finally  settle  down  for  himself,  tired  of  the  struggle, 
he  is  often  more  helpless  than  at  first,  because  he 
cannot  make  the  articles  which  his  father  made. 

Is  the  native  provident?  or  does  he  live  from  hand 
to  mouth?  Yes  and  no.  I  heard  a  man  who  traded 
with  the  natives  say  that  in  one  year  he  bought 
about  1,000  bags  of  grain  from  them,  giving  in  ex- 
change goods  from  his  store.  Before  the  next  crop 
was  harvested,  he  had  sold  about  all  the  grain  back 
to  them,  at  of  course  quite  an  advance  in  price.  I 
have  seen,  near  our  own  doors,  natives  sell  to  Euro- 
pean traders  grain,  either  for  money  or  goods,  from 
$1.25  to  $2.50  for  a  two-hundred-pound  bag  and  buy 
it  back  later  in  the  same  season  for  from  $6  to  $7 
per  bag.  But  these  are  extreme  cases.  In  the  latter 
instance  a  year  of  plenty  was  followed  by  a  year  of 
drought,  and  the  natives  were  far  from  markets  and 
at  the  mercy  of  local  traders.  Many  of  the  natives 


380  AFRICA 

had  put  in  their  granaries  what  would  have  tided 
them  over  an  ordinary  season,  but  the  prolonged 
drought  led  them  to  want.  Others  had  a  compara- 
tively poor  crop  the  previous  year  and  this  caused  a 
scarcity.  Some  did  not  need  to  buy  at  all,  as  they 
always  look  in  advance  for  such  emergencies  and 
do  not  sell  their  surplus  until  certain  of  a  new  crop. 
Such  natives,  when  they  do  sell,  often  sell  to  their 
native  neighbors  or  exchange  their  grain  for  cattle. 
Such  are  generally  very  thrifty,  while  there  are  al- 
ways some  who  are  in  want.  In  this  too  it  may  be 
seen  that  they  are  not  unlike  other  people. 

In  fact,  the  Batonga  taught  their  missionaries 
some  lessons  in  caring  for  grain.  We  found  that 
they  store  their  corn  in  the  grain  bins  without  re- 
moving all  the  husks,  and  they  shell  it  as  they  need 
it  or  near  the  end  of  the  season.  With  the  Kafir 
corn  they  do  the  same  way,  cutting  off  the  heads 
and  putting  it  away  without  threshing  it.  This  was 
so  different  from  the  thrifty  Matabele,  who  care- 
fully shelled  and  threshed  their  grain,  that  the  first 
time  we  visited  one  of  the  villages  and  saw  their 
method  we  thought,  "  How  lazy !  We  must  teach 
them  how  to  do  their  work  properly."  We  soon 
discovered  that  in  this  hot  climate  the  shelled  corn 
was  soon  weevil-eaten,  and  that  the  shelled  Kafir 
corn  was  almost  ground  to  meal  before  the  year 
ended.  Now  we  are  inclined  to  imitate  the  natives 
in  this  respect  rather  than  they  us.  It  shows  too 
that  the  native  adapts  himself  to  the  country  and 
climatic  conditions. 

The  African  is  a  genuine  lover  of  nature.  He  en- 
joys being  out  in  the  open  air ;  he  loves  the  bright 


MACHA  MISSION  381 

rays  of  the  sun.  Everything  around  him  is  preg- 
nant with  meaning.  Nature  is  his  school,  and  he 
knows  the  habits  of  every  beast,  bird,  or  insect.  In 
a  measure  he  appreciates  and  loves  the  beautiful, 
even  though  at  first  he  may  smile  at  the  white  man's 
love  for  flowers.  One  day  I  inquired  of  an  old 
heathen  woman,  who  never  came  to  Church,  why 
they  moved  their  kraal  from  the  rock-bound  place 
in  which  it  had  been,  to  the  open  plain.  Her  with- 
ered face  brightened  up,  as  with  a  sweep  of  her  arm 
she  took  in  the  magnificent  scene  before  her  and 
exclaimed,  "  Is  not  that  beautiful?  "  The  native  too 
shows  good  taste  in  the  selection  of  clothing  after 
he  has  become  accustomed  to  civilized  ways.  We 
are  inclined  to  think  of  them  as  being  especially 
partial  to  bright  colors.  A  few  are,  but  my  expe- 
rience is  that  the  majority  are  not.  Many  of  the 
boys  especially  soon  discard  the  native  stores,  where 
cheap,  apparel  is  sold,  and  frequent  the  stores  for 
Europeans. 

They  love  music  and  have  several  crude  musical 
instruments.  Their  songs  are  generally  of  war,  love, 
marriage,  and  the  chase.  They  also  have  some 
songs  suitable  to  their  work.  They  of  course  have 
good  voices  for  singing,  and  can  be  easily  trained  to 
sing  well.  They  have  their  legends,  their  poetry, 
proverbs,  and  animal  stories. 

Natives,  although  very  generous  among  them- 
selves, are  not  inclined  to  be  so  to  white  people ; 
perhaps  because  white  people  have  not  as  a  rule 
treated  them  so  generously.  If  the  native  wishes  to 
sell  anything  and  is  greatly  in  need  of  the  money  or 
clothing,  he  will  often  consent  to  sell  for  almost  any 


382  AFRICA 

price.  It  is  the  same  with  work ;  he  will  work  very 
cheaply  if  he  is  eager  to  work. 

On  the  other  hand,  if  the  need  is  on  the  part  of 
the  buyer,  he  will  ask  a  very  high  price  for  grain  or 
other  articles  and  absolutely  refuse  to  give  for  less, 
especially  if  the  buyer  is  an  European.  With  work 
it  is  the  same.  Even  boys,  after  they  have  received 
a  certain  amount  of  education  and  religious  train- 
ing, are  very  slow  to  accept  the  idea  that  they  should 
do  anything  for  the  white  man  from  a  sense  of  duty. 
There  are  doubtless  some  very  good  reasons  for  this. 
They,  however,  respect  a  master  who  is  kind  but 
firm,  and  it  is  best  not  to  coax  them.  If  they  find 
that  we  are  not  dependent  upon  them,  and  can  get 
along  without  them,  they  are  more  likely  to  con- 
clude that  they  cannot  get  along  without  us. 

The  native  is  said  to  be  lacking  in  gratitude  to  his 
benefactor,  and  there  is  some  truth  in  this.  One  of- 
ten spends  much  time  and  labor  to  train  him  along 
certain  lines,  with  the  hope  that  he  will  be  of  gen- 
uine service  in  the  future.  Perhaps  about  the  time 
he  is  able  to  take  the  place  for  which  he  is  fitted,  he 
will  often  turn  and,  rejecting  his  benefactor,  give 
the  benefit  of  his  training  to  some  one  who  can  re- 
munerate him  better.  Naturally  the  missionary,  or 
master,  whichever  it  may  be,  feels  grieved  at  this 
lack  of  gratitude.  Too  often,  perhaps,  the  fault  is 
on  both  sides,  and  we  do  not  give  him  credit  for  the 
help  he  has  been  to  us.  Then  too  it  is  difficult  to 
put  ourselves  in  his  place  and  see  matters  from  his 
point  of  view.  He  has  no  idea  of  the  value  of  our 
time  or  training  and  we  sometimes  spoil  him  in  the 
beginning.  "Would  not  the  best  and  safest  way  for 


MACHA   MISSION  383 

the  good  of  the  native  be  to  require  him  to  earn  his 
way  as  he  goes?  Let  him  always  work  sufficiently, 
if  possible,  to  pay  for  the  trouble  it  takes  to  teach 
him,  whether  in  school  or  in  industrial  work,  or  in 
work  pay  him  small  wages  at  first  and  increase  as 
he  becomes  more  and  more  proficient.  It  may  re- 
quire a  little  of  his  time,  but  it  has  not  spoiled  him, 
and  if  he  should  conclude  to  go  at  any  time,  he  has 
altogether  or  nearly  paid  his  way  in  kind  and  one  is 
none  the  loser. 

The  native,  however,  can,  and  many  of  them  do, 
improve  greatly  along  this  line  after  they  have  be- 
come Christians.  While  naturally  they  are  not  in- 
clined to  be  disinterested  and  generous  to  the  white 
people,  yet  many  of  them  become  so  and  display  a 
remarkable  spirit  of  self-sacrifice  in  the  Lord's  serv- 
ice. Many  teach  year  after  year  at  a  far  lower  sal- 
ary than  they  could  obtain  elsewhere ;  and,  not  only 
in  teaching  but  in  other  lines  of  labor  requiring 
skill,  they  will  work  for  the  Lord  for  a  much  lower 
wage  than  they  could  procure  elsewhere,  as  all  of 
our  missionaries  can  testify.  Then  too  many  of 
them  often  give  largely  of  their  penury  for  the  ad- 
vancement of  the  cause  of  Christ. 

I  was  one  day  touched  by  the  spirit  manifested  by 
a  big  fellow.  He  had  come  to  the  missionaries  des- 
titute of  clothing,  but  anxious  for  an  education.  He 
was  a  hard-headed  chap,  both  in  school  and  out,  and 
ran  up  against  many  hard  places  before  he  became 
pliable.  He  received,  like  the  rest,  a  little  money  at 
the  end  of  each  term,  but  since  he  was  in  school 
three  and  one-half  hours  each  day,  his  time  for  work 
was  limited  and  his  pay  necessarily  small.  He,  how- 


384  AFRICA 

ever,  stayed  at  the  mission  and  gradually  obtained 
some  clothing  and  money  to  pay  his  taxes.  He  also 
began  to  accept  Christ  as  his  Savior  and  from  being 
a  proud,  obstinate  fellow,  he  became  more  and  more 
docile.  At  one  time  the  amount  coming  to  him  was 
ten  shillings  ($2.40).  His  wardrobe  was  still  scanty, 
but  he  took  out  for  himself  one  shilling  of  the  money 
received  and  brought  the  remaining  nine  shillings 
and  said,  "Here,  I  want  to  give  this  to  the  Lord." 

Giving  the  Gospel  to  the  natives  in  their  villages, 
while  it  is  generally  a  pleasure  to  the  missionary,  is 
not  always  an  easy  task.  They  soon  learn  to  be 
very  quiet  and  respectful  in  the  church,  enter  quiet- 
ly, take  their  places  and  go  through  all  the  outward 
forms  of  service,  and  also  leave  without  being  noisy 
or  talking,  perhaps  because  they  are  requested  to 
do  so.  But  when  one  goes  out  into  their  villages, 
even  to  the  best  of  them,  there  are  many  side  issues. 
The  chief,  if  he  is  present  and  worthy  the  name, 
will  aid  in  keeping  order,  and  even  if  he  is  not  pres- 
ent, the  majority  may  sit  quietly  and  seem  to  be 
listening;  but  perhaps  the  cattle  get  at  the  granaries 
and  must  be  driven  away,  or  the  chickens  go  into 
the  huts  and  eat  the  meal  and  must  be  watched ; 
perhaps  new  ones  are  continually  coming  and  must 
be  noticed  and  greeted,  if  they  are  allowed  to  do  so. 
Then  the  babies  are  so  interesting  to  their  mothers 
or  those  near  them,  or  perhaps  there  is  a  mother 
with  an  older  child  at  her  side,  and  she  does  not 
wish  to  lose  any  time ;  so,  during  her  enforced  lei- 
sure, she  is  sedulously  examining  the  child's  head 
or  ornaments  for  parasites.  Perhaps  over  there, 
outside  the  hut  door,  is  a  man  who  has  not  had  time 


MACHA   MISSION  385 

to  make  his  morning  toilet,  so  he  concludes  to 
spend  the  time  in  dressing  the  long  locks  of  hair 
around  the  top  of  his  head. 

One  does  not  like  to  stop  and  reprove  them,  be- 
cause the  rest  seem  attentive  and  perhaps  those  are 
also  listening,  for  the  work  they  are  engaged  in  is 
such  a  common  one !  Again,  all  may  seem  atten- 
tive and  the  missionary  rejoices  that  the  seed  is 
falling  into  well-prepared  soil,  and  he  continues 
eager  to  drive  the  truth  home  to  their  hearts.  He 
pauses  to  let  it  sink  in — when  lo!  some  one  will 
make  a  remark  wholly  irrelevant  to  the  subject  he 
seeks  to  impress  upon  their  minds;  it  may  be  in 
reference  to  some  article  of  clothing  he  is  wearing, 
or  some  of  their  own  needs.  His  enthusiasm  cools, 
for  he  perceives  that  some,  and  perhaps  many,  have 
paid  little  attention  to  the  message. 

Again,  one  may  be  speaking,  and  the  chief  or 
headman  repeats  what  has  been  said,  or  he  may  ask 
a  pertinent  question,  the  answer  to  which  brings 
out  other  questions,  which  serve  to  elucidate  the 
subject.  The  other  natives  are  led  to  listen;  and 
while  the  discourse  turns  to  be  almost  a  conversa- 
tion between  the  speaker  and  this  one,  yet  the  mis- 
sionary goes  away  feeling  that  they  have  at  least 
understood  and  perhaps  have  received  some  light. 
Sometimes,  again,  one  may  have  only  a  few  listeners 
and  go  away  thinking  nothing  has  been  accom- 
plished, but  God  has  taken  care  of  the  seed  sown. 

I  remember  being  out  once  with  one  of  the  Chris- 
tian boys.  We  came  to  a  garden  where  a  woman 
and  her  daughter  were  working,  and  we  sat  and 
talked  with  them  about  Christ  our  Savior.  This 


386  AFRICA 

was  the  first  time  they  had  had  an  opportunity  to 
hear.  Years  passed  and  the  incident  was  about  for- 
gotten by  both  the  Christian  native  and  myself. 
That  girl  later,  out  of  much  tribulation  found  her 
way  into  the  Kingdom.  Her  father  was  a  hardened 
old  heathen,  and  had  sold  her  to  an  old  man.  He 
was  going  to  force  her  to  marry  the  old  man,  but 
she  escaped  and  fled  to  Matopo  Mission  where,  with 
Elder  Steigerwald's  help,  she  was  set  free.  She  re- 
turned home,  and  later  an  European  offered  oxen 
and  wagon  to  her  father  for  her.  She  steadfastly 
refused  and  kept  herself  pure.  Today  she  is  the 
wife  of  a  native  evangelist  and  one  of  our  most 
valued  helpers.  She  says  her  first  knowledge  of 
Christ  was  at  that  little  meeting  in  the  garden, 
where  she  and  her  mother  were  working,  and  her 
present  husband  and  I  stopped  to  speak  with  them. 


CHAPTER    ELEVEN 
Some  of  Their  Religious  Ideas 

Nevertheless  He  left  not  Himself  without  witness,  in 
that  He  did  good,  and  gave  us  rain  from  heaven,  and 
fruitful  seasons,  filling  our  hearts  with  food  and  glad- 
ness.— Acts  14:  17. 

THE  above  quotation  may  apply  to  the  Afri- 
can's idea  of  God  in  general,  but  it  seems 
especially  applicable  to  the  Batonga  and 
kindred  tribes.  Among  these  the  word  for  God  and 
rain  are  one  and  the  same,  Leza.  This  does  not 
necessarily  imply  that  they  have  no  conception  of 
God  apart  from  the  Rainmaker,  but  that  conception 
is  closely  allied  to  rain  and  kindred  elements  in 
nature.  They  understand  the  name  Mubumbi 
(Moulder  or  Creator)  and  Chilenga  (Originator  of 
Customs),  but  when  speaking  of  the  earth  and  vege- 
tation, they  will  say,  "  Leza  [God]  made  these 
things,  because  when  leza  [rain]  comes,  grass  and 
vegetation  spring  up  and  grow,  so  Leza  made 
them." 

Of  course  their  conception  of  Him,  like  that  of 
all  Africans,  is  very  remote.  He  is  their  Creator, 
but  to  approach  unto  Him  is  like  reaching  out  in  the 
dark,  in  a  vague  sort  of  way,  after  something  more 
powerful  than  themselves,  something  or  some  one 
they  know  not  what.  In  times  of  great  trouble,  as 
in  famine,  fear,  or  when  there  is  an  earthquake  or 
387 


388  AFRICA 

an  eclipse,  they  will  worship  God,  not  necessarily 
by  word  of  mouth,  but  by  clapping  their  hands  in 
reverence.  They  generally,  however,  like  the  Mata- 
bele,  feel  that  they  cannot  approach  God.  He  is  too 
great  and  terrible,  so  they  approach  Him  through 
mediators,  such  as  departed  spirits,  prophets,  and 
prophetesses. 

Mr.  Eddy,  in  "  India  Awakening,"  says :  "  Joined 
with  these  is  the  worship  of  dead  parents,  where 
spirits  are  dependent  on  their  survivors  for  com- 
forts, and  who  will  avenge  neglect  or  any  deviation 
from  custom.  This  belief  is  (1)  a  religion  of  fear, 
since  most  spirits  are  malicious ;  (2)  a  religion  di- 
vorced from  ethics,  since  spirits  have  no  regard  for 
moral  ideas;  (3)  a  religion  of  custom,  since  the  wor- 
ship rests  on  tradition  and  the  spirits  are  apt  to 
punish  all  departure  from  custom."  This  statement 
in  reference  to  India  can  be  as  truthfully  said  of  the 
pagan  African. 

The  Batonga,  many  of  them,  build  roofs  or  small 
huts  over  the  graves  of  their  dead.  In  them  they 
will  place  skulls  of  animals  and  some  of  the  proper- 
ty of  the  deceased.  Their  descendants  come  to  this 
place,  bringing  beer  and  even  water,  and  pour  it  out 
upon  the  grave  in  worship.  If  one  has  been  consid- 
ered powerful  while  alive,  has  been  a  great  rain- 
maker, many  people  will  gather  around  his  grave 
in  time  of  drought  and  pray  for  rain. 

They  have  also  their  living  prophetesses  and 
prophets,  to  whom  they  turn  in  times  of  need.  These 
claim  that  the  soul  of  some  powerful  deceased  one 
has  entered  them  and  bequeathed  to  them  its  power. 
In  times  of  drought  these  prophetesses — for  they 


MACHA   MISSION  389 

are  generally  women — multiply  rapidly.  In  a  vil- 
lage of  about  thirty-five  huts,  near  us,  there  were 
said  to  be  ten  prophetesses  during  the  drought  two 
years  ago.  The  prophetic  term  of  some  of  them  is 
often  very  short,  much  depending  on  their  seeming 
success  as  rainmakers.  Sometimes  the  prophetess 
will  make  no  claim  for  herself,  but  her  friends  will 
make  it  for  her.  The  prophetesses  are  very  often 
immoral  characters. 

Day  after  day  people  will  come  to  the  prophetess, 
as  the  time  for  planting  draws  near,  bringing  their 
presents  of  grain  or  money  and  their  seed,  that  she 
may  bless  it  and  insure  good  crops.  They  come, 
sit  down,  reverentially  clapping  their  hands  and  be- 
seeching her  aid.  The  hunter  brings  his  gun,  to 
receive  medicine  which  will  insure  him  prowess  in 
hunting;  a  man  comes  asking  for  medicine  for  his 
sick  wife,  who  is  bewitched,  and  this  medicine  is  to 
ward  off  the  witchery.  There  comes  from  afar  an 
old  woman,  who  claims  to  have  the  power  of  mak- 
ing their  grain  last  a  long  time  by  putting  a  certain 
medicine  into  it  when  cooking.  She  is  believed  and 
the  medicine  is  bought  and  put  into  the  food,  and 
she  rejoices  in  her  pay.  These  heathens  are  always 
very  gullible  and  readily  purchase  anything  which 
appears  conducive  to  their  own  interests. 

One  day  I  saw  a  number  of  natives  going  to  a 
village  to  worship  a  rainmaker,  so  I  concluded  to 
go  also  and  see  what  they  did,  for  it  was  a  village 
near  the  mission  where  the  Gospel  had  often  been 
proclaimed.  As  I  reached  the  place  the  prophetess 
was  in  her  hut,  but  a  number  of  women  and  girls 
were  outside,  clapping  their  hands  in  worship.  Their 


390  AFRICA 

faces  were  familiar  to  me,  and  I  could  not  avoid 
feeling  sad  to  see  how  little  influence  the  Gospel 
had  thus  far  had  on  their  lives.  Finally  the  proph- 
etess came  out  of  her  hut  and  was  received  with 
more  clapping  of  the  hands.  She  was  a  large, 
powerful-looking  woman  and  gave  orders  like  a 
queen,  nor  was  she  unqueenly  in  appearance. 
The  worshipers  were  seated  around  a  large  hole  or 
excavation  in  the  earth,  and  had  several  dishes  of 
grain  which  they  had  brought.  They  were  told  to 
sort  the  grain,  selecting  only  the  best  and  whitest; 
and  I  am  informed  that  some  of  the  grain,  together 
with  incantations,  is  dropped  into  the  opening  in 
the  earth,  but  this  I  did  not  see.  She  came  and 
greeted  me  and  spoke  a  few  words  and  then  entered 
her  hut.  A  man  came  to  her  for  medicine  for  his 
sick  wife,  who  was  bewitched,  and  others  went  to 
consult  with  her.  Finally  I  went  to  the  door  of  her 
hut  and  spoke  with  her,  inquiring  why  these  people 
were  worshiping.  She  said: 

"  They  want  rain.  The  spirit  of  a  rainmaker  who 
died  a  long,  long  time  ago  entered  into  me  and  they 
come  for  me  to  make  it  rain." 

Knowing  them  so  well,  and  being  jealous  for  Him 
AY  hose  ambassador  I  was,  I  asked,  "  Do  you  really 
mean  to  say  that  you  can  cause  rain?  " 

Regarding  me  quite  earnestly  for  a  time  she  fi- 
nally said,  "  No,  I  cannot  cause  rain." 

"  Why  then  are  you  deceiving  the  people  and  pre- 
tending that  you  can?  God  only  can  produce  rain." 

"  Yes,"  she  replied,  "  He  alone  can  make  it  rain." 

"  Then  come  and  tell  the  people  that  He  only  can 
cause  it  to  rain  and  that  they  should  worship  Him." 


MACHA  MISSION  391 

She  willingly  complied,  and  coming  out  of  her 
hut,  she  spoke  to  them  very  earnestly,  telling  them 
to  worship  God,  as  He  alone  could  cause  rain.  As 
she  claimed  to  be  only  an  intercessor,  and  no  doubt 
did  this  to  please  me,  it  did  not  necessarily  inter- 
fere with  her  role  as  rainmaker.  Even  the  most 
pagan  among  them  acknowledge  Leza  (God)  as 
the  Rainmaker,  and  these  only  as  His  messengers. 
Since  the  people  so  readily  transfer  their  worship 
from  one  to  another,  they  also  freely  come  to  the 
missionaries  to  have  them  pray  for  rain.  They 
have  done  this  at  Macha,  and  the  Lord  has  gracious- 
ly answered  the  prayers  of  His  servants.  This, 
however,  does  not  seem  to  bring  the  native  any 
nearer  to  repentance  and  God,  and  one  feels  loath 
to  heed  their  request,  except  in  the  case  of  Chris- 
tian natives. 

With  the  Batonga,  wailing  for  the  dead  seems  to 
be  essentially  a  religious  requirement,  and  it  is  most 
religiously  observed,  so  we  venture  to  include  it  as 
a  part  of  their  religion.  When  the  news  of  a  death 
reaches  a  village,  the  people  begin  to  wail  at  once, 
especially  if  they  be  relatives,  and  continue  to  do  so 
while  they  are  moving  about,  putting  away  their 
grain,  baskets,  and  the  few  utensils  they  own,  for 
a  stay  of  several  days.  They  may  be  heard  wailing 
as  they  pass  on  their  way  out  of  their  village  to  go 
to  that  of  the  dead.  In  a  short  time  perhaps  the 
entire  village  is  deserted.  We  were  once  camping 
near  a  village  of  fifty  huts,  and  news  came  that  a 
relative  had  died  at  a  mine  near  Bulawayo.  In  a 
few  minutes  nearly  all  the  inhabitants  were  on  their 
way  to  the  house  of  mourning;  for,  although  the 


392  AFRICA 

body  was  buried  about  four  hundred  miles  distant, 
they  firmly  believed  that  his  spirit  returned  to  his 
home  and  took  cognizance  of  all  they  did.  If  a  na- 
tive is  traveling  along  a  path,  and  word  comes  to 
him  of  the  death  of  a  relative,  he  will  begin  wailing 
at  once,  and  turning  around  proceed  to  the  place  of 
mourning. 

Perhaps  the  reader  will  more  fully  understand 
what  an  African  funeral  is  if  he  in  mind  accom- 
panies us  to  one.  Apuleni's  father  had  been  work- 
ing in  a  mine  in  Southern  Rhodesia.  He  became 
quite  sick  there  and  was  brought  home  to  die.  We 
visited  his  home,  and  found  that  they  had  taken 
him  to  a  temporary  hut  at  some  distance  from  the 
village.  It  is  a  very  common  practice  for  them  to 
do  this,  especially  if  one  is  near  death's  door.  His 
wife  and  daughters  are  near  him,  doing  all  they  can 
to  relieve  his  sufferings.  His  lungs  are  diseased  and 
it  is  likely  to  prove  fataL 

One  evening  word  comes  to  the  boy  that  his  fa- 
ther has  died.  He  immediately  goes  home,  while 
Sister  Engle  and  I  conclude  to  go  and  see  him 
buried.  We  have  seen  the  wailings,  but  not  the 
interment.  It  is  already  dark  when  the  word  comes, 
so  we  take  the  -lantern  and  together  with  several 
schoolboys  start  for  the  village.  We  all  go  single 
file  along  the  path  for  nearly  three-fourths  of  a  mile, 
down  the  hill,  across  the  river,  which  is  dry  at  this 
season.  The  night  is  quite  dark  and  only  lighted  up 
by  the  flame  of  the  lantern.  Up  the  hill  we  go,  on 
the  opposite  side,  for  over  a  fourth  of  a  mile  to  the 
village.  All  along  the  path  the  sound  of  wailing 
comes  to  our  ears.  Sometimes  it  subsides  and  then 


MACHA   MISSION  393 

becomes  more  violent  than  ever.  Before  death  the 
deceased  has  been  brought  back  to  his  hut,  and  as 
we  enter  the  village  the  men  are  sitting  around  in 
groups  outside  and  are  quiet.  We  proceed  to  the  hut 
of  mourning,  which  is  crowded  with  women  and  is 
dark,  save  for  the  light  of  the  fire  in  the  center,  the 
flickering  flames  of  which  ever  and  anon  light  up 
the  weird  scene. 

We  stoop  down  and  enter  the  low  door.  It  is  so 
crowded  and  hot  that  farther  progress  seems  im- 
possible, and  yet  we  manage  to  work  our  way 
among  the  crowd,  seated  or  standing  and  keeping 
up  their  doleful  wail.  Our  object  is  twofold:  We 
wish  to  see,  and  also  to  show  our  sympathy  for  the 
boy  who  has  been  with  us  so  long  and  is  a  Chris- 
tian, and  we  desire  to  see  the  sorrowing  wife  and 
daughters,  for  we  know  them  well  and  believe  that 
they  will  appreciate  our  presence  and  words  of  con- 
dolence. WTe  finally  reach  the  partition  which  ex- 
tends over  halfway  across  the  hut.  Near  this  lies  a 
bundle  about  four  or  five  feet  long.  It  is  a  some- 
what shapeless  mass,  wrapped  with  a  number  of 
layers  of  blankets  and  carefully  tied.  In  the  fitful 
light  one  might  easily  mistake  it  for  a  bundle  of 
clothes,  but  we  know  without  asking  that  this  is  the 
body  of  the  deceased ;  for  around  it  are  seated  the 
wife  and  daughters  weeping  bitterly,  and  lovingly 
patting  the  wrapping  of  the  body.  The  rest  of  the 
women  are  mingling  their  tears  with  those  of  the 
relatives.  We  stoop  and  speak  a  few  words  of  com- 
fort to  the  wife,  but  it  is  little  we  can  give ;  he  had 
frequently  heard  of  Christ,  but  refused  to  accept 
Him.  As  the  fire  flames  up  we  can  see  Apuleni 


394  AFRICA 

standing  in  the  shadow,  and  he  too  is  weeping  bit- 
terly, but  more  quietly.  The  boys  who  came  with 
us  make  their  way  through  the  throng  and  going  to 
him  mingle  their  tears  with  his,  and  our  own  eyes 
overflow  at  the  sight. 

But  this  crowded  hut,  without  windows  or  means 
of  ventilation  and  with  a  hot  fire,  is  unbearable,  so 
we  go  outside,  the  boys  following.  Everyone  on 
the  outside  is  quiet  or  speaking  in  low  tones.  Sis- 
ter Engle  and  I  are  given  blocks  of  wood  for  chairs. 
From  one  of  the  groups  of  men  the  chief,  Lupata, 
rises  and  takes  his  little  hoe,  and  after  he  has  made 
some  measurements,  he  marks  off  the  grave  a  few 
feet  from  the  door  of  the  hut  of  mourning.  In  the 
meantime  wood  and  logs  have  been  brought  and 
several  fires  kindled,  as  night  is  nearly  always  cool. 
Around  these  fires  the  men  sit  in  groups,  but  the 
fires  do  not  make  sufficient  light,  and  some  grass 
is  brought  from  the  roof  of  the  hut  and  burnt  near 
the  grave  for  light,  so  the  chief  may  see  to  do  his 
work  in  digging  out  the  first  part  of  the  grave.  He 
then  hands  the  hoe  to  another,  who  continues  the 
work.  The  ground  is  very  hard  and  the  work  pro- 
ceeds slowly,  and  since  they  have  difficulty  in  seeing, 
we  place  our  lantern  on  a  stamping  block  near 
them.  This  is  gratefully  acknowledged  by  the  lit- 
tle group,  and  the  digging  continues. 

It  is  an  uncanny  scene:  The  steady,  dull  thud 
of  the  hoe  as  it  digs  into  the  hard  earth ;  the  various 
campfires  lighting  up  the  dusky,  grave  faces  of  the 
men  in  their  heathen  garb ;  the  steady  wail  of 
mourning  in  the  hut  near  by — all  leave  an  impres- 
sion not  soon  obliterated.  Thus  perhaps  an  hour 


MACHA  MISSION  395 

passes  and  several  men  have  taken  part  in  digging, 
the  loose  earth  being  removed  by  means  of  a  basket ; 
but  the  picking  of  the  hoe  has  taken  on  a  metallic 
ring,  for  the  earth  is  stony.  The  chief  asks  for 
kafir  corn,  and  a  daughter  comes  and  shells  some 
and  places  a  pan  of  it  near  the  open  grave.  Fre- 
quently some  of  this  grain  is  dropped  into  the  open- 
ing, "  to  soften  and  appease  the  earth,"  they  say, 
and  the  digging  continues,  though  but  little  prog- 
ress is  made.  Then  the  chief  calls  to  the  mourners, 
"  Be  quiet  and  do  not  make  so  much  noise.  Don't 
you  know  that  the  ground  is  hard  and  stony?  "  The 
noise  subsides  and  the  digging  goes  on.  Soon  the 
friends  again  begin  their  loud  wailing,  and  since  the 
ground  is  still  hard  and  stony,  the  chief  finally  goes 
to  the  door  of  the  hut  and  berates  them  soundly. 
"  Be  quiet!  Do  you  not  know  that  you  are  making 
our  work  difficult  by  your  lamentations?  The  earth 
refuses  to  receive  the  dead  "  (because  you  are  loath 
to  give  it).  They  become  quiet  and  the  work  con- 
tinues. They  think  the  very  elements  are  arrayed 
against  them,  and  the  friends  must  propitiate  the 
earth  by  a  willing  surrender  of  their  loved  one  to 
its  cold  embrace. 

It  is  now  midnight,  and  from  the  progress  made 
we  conclude  that  it  will  take  all  night  to  finish  the 
stony  grave.  We  speak  to  the  chief  and  he  says, 
"  Yes,  the  interment  will  not  likely  be  before  early 
dawn."  We  conclude  to  return  home  and  have 
some  rest.  At  an  early  hour  we  are  awakened  and 
reach  the  village  just  at  dawn.  The  grave  has  been 
dug  so  that  those  inside  can  stand  to  their  armpits. 
Then  near  the  bottom  a  further  excavation  is  made 


396  AFRICA 

in  the  side  of  the  grave,  sufficiently  large  to  receive 
the  body.  Two  men  remain  standing  in  the  grave 
while  the  body  is  carried  out  amid  the  lamentations 
of  the  mourners.  It  is  gently  lowered  into  the  open 
grave  and  placed  in  the  excavation  in  the  side. 
Earth  is  handed  down  in  baskets,  and  this  is  care- 
fully packed  around  the  body.  Then  comes  the 
filling  of  the  main  part  of  the  opening.  As  the 
ground  is  lowered  the  two  men  stamp  it  down  with 
their  feet,  for  of  course  they  are  not  standing  on 
the  body.  When  it  is  nearly  full,  the  men  emerge 
and  several  with  sticks  carefully  pound  the  earth  as 
it  is  put  in  until  the  grave  is  full. 

All  this  time  the  friends  have  been  standing 
around  weeping.  When  the  grave  is  filled  and  all 
the  rest  of  the  earth  removed,  the  head  one  calls 
loudly,  "  Water!  "  This  is  brought  in  a  gourd  and 
all  the  relatives  and  those  taking  part  in  the  burial 
rush  together;  and  as  the  water  is  poured  out  on 
the  grave,  they  wash  their  hands  in  the  falling  wa- 
ter. The  surface  of  the  grave  is  by  this  time  quite 
wet.  The  friends  throw  themselves  on  the  muddy 
grave  with  their  entire  force,  so  that  one  would 
think  bones  might  be  broken. '  Some  throw  them- 
selves repeatedly,  and  by  the  time  they  have  fin- 
ished, their  bodies  are  quite  muddy,  but  the  top  of 
the  grave  is  pounded  down  as  smooth  as  the  sur- 
rounding earth,  and  by  the  time  it  is  dry  the  un- 
initiated could  not  tell  the  place  of  burial. 

Those  participating  then  go  to  the  river  to  wash, 
and  the  chief  mourners  paint  part  of  their  bodies 
with  an  ash-colored  soil,  Word  has  been  sent  to 
the  friends  and  neighbors  and  the  wailing  proper 


MACHA  MISSION  397 

begins.  Men  with  assegais,  axes,  or  guns  walk  back 
and  forth  crying  "  Mawe  " ;  the  women  surround 
the  grave,  wailing  and  uttering  various  lamenta- 
tions, such  as  "  My  friend,"  "  The  father  of  Apuleni." 
A  wife  will  have  on  her  head  the  deceased's  hat; 
another  will  be  carrying  his  assegai  with  the  point 
bent;  another  his  stool.  All  this  time  the  son  re- 
mained quietly  weeping,  taking  no  part  in  the  heath- 
en demonstrations. 

An  important  part  of  the  Batonga  funeral  is  the 
sacrifice  of  animals,  cattle,  sheep,  and  goats.  They 
think  these  have  souls  and  accompany  the  deceased. 
The  number  killed  depends  upon  the  rank  and 
the  wealth  of  the  one  who  died,  although  not  all 
the  animals  sacrificed  are  his  property.  Relatives 
often  bring  of  their  own  herds  for  the  purpose. 
Some  of  the  poorer  class  may  have  only  one  animal 
and  small  children  none.  At  the  grave  of  the  mur- 
dered chief  they  sacrificed  eight  head  of  cattle;  at 
that  of  another  chief,  a  little  farther  away,  there 
were  twenty-two  killed.  The  meat  of  these  animals 
is  eaten  by  the  mourners.  At  the  funeral  which  we 
have  just  described  the  man  was  poor.  One  of  the 
relatives  slew  a  goat,  and  an  ox  of  the  deceased  also 
was  killed.  Later  in  the  day,  as  the  people  began 
to  assemble  for  the  general  mourning,  several  young 
men  came  leading  an  ox  for  sacrifice.  They  were 
decked  out  in  a  most  fantastic  manner,  with  pieces 
of  bright-colored  cloth  and  various  colored  paper 
cut  in  ribbons.  As  they  arrived  near  the  scene  they 
made  a  rush  for  the  grave,  brandishing  their  weap- 
ons fiercely  and  seeming  to  fight  the  very  powers  of 
darkness. 


398  AFRICA 

One  day  Sister  Taylor  and  I  were  present  at  the 
funeral  of  the  daughter  of  a  chief.  She  was  already 
buried  when  we  reached  the  place  and  two  oxen 
had  been  killed.  We  had  no  sooner  spoken  to  her 
parents  and  sat  down  than  a  number  of  cattle  were 
driven  into  the  enclosure,  between  the  huts.  An 
old  native  raised  his  spear  and  aimed  at  one  of  the 
cattle.  The  rest  were  at  once  driven  out  while  that 
one  staggered  and  fell.  A  woman  stepped  to  the 
grave  and  loudly  called  to  the  dead  that  the  animal 
was  slain  and  its  spirit  was  coming.  It  was  a  sick- 
ening sight.  The  wailing  continued,  and  some  of 
the  people  would  run  around  the  huts  in  a  wild, 
scared  manner,  as  if  they  were  fighting  something. 
The  air  is  to  them  peopled  with  malevolent  spirits, 
seeking  to  do  them  harm,  and  they  must  ward  them 
off.  If  one  is  dying  they  often  beat  their  tomtoms 
in  a  furious  manner  to  ward  off  danger.  Heathen 
death  and  burial  is  a  sad  thing.  It  must  be  seen  to 
know  how  terrible  it  really  is.  The  warlike  Baila 
were  accustomed  formerly  to  sacrifice  any  one 
of  another  tribe  who  happened  to  be  in  the  neigh- 
borhood at  the  death  of  a  chief,  for  all  strangers 
were  enemies,  and  Gomo  said  he  saw  four  or  five 
human  skulls  on  a  tree  as  he  approached  one  of 
their  huts.  The  wailing  is  kept  up  for  several  days, 
especially  at  night,  for  it  would  seem  that  darkness 
adds  to  their  terror  of  the  evil  spirits. 

We  have  often  endeavored  to  show  them  the 
folly  of  some  of  their  beliefs,  and  of  course  the 
Christians  take  no  part  with  them.  Even  many  of 
the  older  people  are  losing  faith  in  some  of  these 
things,  but  are  continuing  to  keep  up  appearances 


MACHA  MISSION  399 

for  fear  of  the  rest.  The  chief  near  us  says  he  is 
not  going  to  sacrifice  any  more  'cattle ;  he  will  keep 
them  and  train  them  for  oxen. 

Some  are  very  eager  to  have  white  cloth  in  con- 
nection with  burial,  and  one  old  man  at  some  dis- 
tance north  of  us,  who  has  a  son  in  Bulawayo,  de- 
sired us  to  write  to  the  son,  telling  him  to  bring 
him  a  white  shroud  for  burial.  Whether  this  idea 
has  come  in  through  the  white  man  I  am  unable  to 
say,  but  it  has  probably  come  through  some  na- 
tives who  have  been  to  the  towns  to  work  and  there 
learned  something  of  Christian  burial.  Among 
some  half-civilized  natives  in  some  parts  of  Africa, 
the  idea  prevails  that  if  one  is  put  in  a  coffin,  and 
has  a  Christian  burial,  he  will  go  to  heaven. 

There  is  also  a  second  and  sometimes  a  third 
wailing,  consisting  of  a  beer  drink  and  a  dance. 
This  too  is  generally  held  at  night.  The  friends 
and  relatives  come  together  and  the  half-intoxicated 
mourners  engage  in  singing  and  dancing.  The  ac- 
tions are  most  lewd  and  disgusting,  for  these  are 
often  genuine  carousals  of  the  basest  sort ;  but  they 
are  most  religiously  engaged  in,  and  people  who 
believe  that  the  departed  spirits  have  such  power 
over  the  living,  are  loath  to  ignore  any  established 
worship  of  such  spirits. 

Shikazwa  is  the  messenger  of  witches  and  is  sup- 
posed to  bring  harm,  sickness,  or  death  to  its  ene- 
mies. This  class  of  spirits  they  say  never  dwells 
in  a  human  body.  They  are  always  disembodied 
spirits  and  mediums.  The  belief  in  witchcraft  and 
transmigration  of  souls  is  similar  to  that  of  the 
Matabele  and  need  not  be  repeated.  The  native, 


400  AFRICA 

too,  has  firm  belief  in  the  efficacy  of  charms  to  ward 
off  sickness  or  accidents  and  to  bring  good  fortune, 
and  the  dispensers  of  these  articles  do  a  thriving 
business. 

There  are  various  other  beliefs  in  the  possession 
of  spirits,  which  are  not  very  well  understood,  and 
some  of  them  seem  to  be  comparatively  new,  even 
among  the  natives  themselves.  While  I  was  in 
Natal,  in  1910,  a  missionary  was  telling  me  of  a  dif- 
ficulty they  were  encountering  among  the  native 
girls.  They  became  possessed  with  an  affliction  not 
unlike  hysterics,  and  when  it  .was  started  in  a  neigh- 
borhood it  spread  rapidly  even  among  half-civilized 
natives.  I  say  hysterics,  because  this  lady  was  en- 
abled to  check  its  advance  by  punishing  the  first 
one  who  was  afflicted  in  that  way  in  her  school.  I 
had  never  witnessed  anything  of  the  sort  among  na- 
tives until  my  return  to  Macha  in  that  same  year. 
One  day,  while  out  kraal-visiting,  I  was  surprised 
to  see  something  of  the  same  nature.  They  tried  to 
keep  the  actions  of  the  young  woman,  who  was  af- 
flicted, from  my  notice,  and  hurriedly  attempted  to 
quiet  her  by  silly  remedies.  When  I  inquired  what 
was  the  matter,  they  quickly  replied,  "  Nothing." 
The  boy  accompanying  me  said  it  was  demon  pos- 
session. This  has  spread  over  the  country  among 
the  girls  and  young  women.  The  natives  called  it 
Masabi.  The  older  people  do  not  care  to  mention 
it  or,  if  they  do,  it  is  in  sort  of  an  apologetic  manner. 
They  claim  that  the  spirit  of  some  bird  or  other  ani- 
mal enters  the  person  and  causes  her  to  act  so 
strangely.  The  usual  remedy  resorted  to  is  to  beat 
the  tomtoms  to  drive  away  the  spirit.  They  claim 


MACHA   MISSION  401 

that  the  so-called  possession  is  comparatively  new 
in  the  country,  and  that  it  came  from  a  tribe  north- 
east of  Macha. 


CHAPTER   TWELVE 
A  Few  of  Their  Customs 

THE  Batonga  are  very  dark  in  color,  although 
not  always  black.  Their  features  are  regular 
and  well  formed,  and  the  people  are  intelli- 
gent looking.  Some  of  them  are  large,  but  as  a  tribe 
they  are  not  as  powerfully  built  as  the  Matabele. 
Their  tribal  mark  amounts  to  almost  a  deformity. 
\Yhen  a  boy  (or  girl)  is  about  fourteen  years  of 
age,  he  is  taken  to  the  native  dentist.  The  head  is 
put  on  the  ground  and  held  in  place  while  the  den- 
tist with  a  blunt  instrument  knocks  out  the  front 
upper  teeth,  usually  four,  sometimes  six  in  number. 
The  gums  and  lips  become  much  swollen  and  in- 
flamed by  this  barbarous  procedure ;  but  in  time 
they  heal,  and  the  child  is  a  Mutonga  or  Mwila,  and 
this  deformity  proclaims  his  tribe  wherever  he  goes. 
The  natives  never  care  to  have  the  process  re- 
peated. Other  natives  often  go  to  their  missionaries 
to  have  teeth  extracted,  but  the  Batonga  seldom  or 
never  do.  They  prefer  the  suffering  which  comes 
from  neuralgia  or  toothache.  This  barbarous  cus- 
tom, like  many  others,  has  nearly  had  its  day,  and 
many  of  the  boys  have  already  rebelled  since  they 
have  come  into  contact  with  other  natives  or  Euro- 
peans. It  will  require  more  time  for  the  girls  to 
break  away  from  it,  as  they  live  more  secluded  lives, 
and  have  developed  less  independence  of  character 
402 


MACHA   MISSION  403 

than  their  brothers.  A  mother  will  tell  her  daughter 
that  it  is  a  shame  for  a  woman  to  have  upper  front 
teeth.  She  should  be  like  the  cow. 

They  are  all  very  fond  of  grease  for  their  bodies, 
either  animal  fat  or  butter;  and  in  this  hot,  dry 
climate  this  is  not  so  objectionable,  if  they  use  it  in 
moderation,  by  simply  oiling  the  body  to  prevent 
the  skin  from  cracking.  Many  of  the  women,  how- 
ever, use  the  grease  to  excess.  They  grind  red  ochre 
and,  mixing  it  with  the  grease,  paint  their  bodies, 
including  their  hair,  red,  which  is  their  idea  of  beau- 
ty. In  this  perhaps  they  are  more  excusable  than 
some  others.  Clay  often  is  used  in  dressing  their 
hair,  and  buttons,  beads,  and  shell  are  sewed  to 
their  hair,  as  ornaments. 

The  men  too  take  great  pride  in  dressing  their 
hair,  and  in  this  respect  generally  surpass  the  wom- 
en. They  shave  part  of  the  head  and  let  the  hair 
about  the  crown  and  back  of  the  head  grow  long. 
This  they  straighten  out,  and  it  looks  not  unlike 
strings  hanging  from  the  back  of  the  head.  This  is 
carried  to  extremes  among  the  Baila.  There  the 
dude  lets  his  hair  grow  and  then  goes  to  the  hair- 
dresser who,  with  grease,  hair,  and  other  materials, 
builds  it  up  into  a  chignon  on  the  top  of  his  head. 
With  some,  this  chignon  is  only  five  or  six  inches 
long,  but  in  the  interior  of  the  tribe  it  is  said  to  be 
sometimes  three  feet  in  length.  Brother  Steiger- 
wald  on  his  trip  north  saw  some  of  these  long  ones. 
Of  course  the  head  cannot  help  lying  uneasy  with 
such  a  weight. 

Among  these  people  the  clan,  or  perhaps  I  should 
say  the  kinsfolk,  forms  the  unit.  They  all  are  close- 


404 


AFRICA 


MACHA   MISSION  405 

ly  bound  together  and  each  one  more  or  less  re- 
sponsible for  the  others  of  his  relatives.  In  mar- 
riage, death,  sickness,  or  trouble,  all  are  concerned 
in  the  affair.  When  difficulty  arises  the  heads  of 
each  clan  listen  to  the  affair  and  settle  the  dispute. 
Perhaps  the  persons  most  interested  may  have  no 
opportunity  of  expressing  an  opinion,  especially  if 
they  be  younger  and  unimportant  members  of  the 
families. 

An  unfortunate  accident  occurred  among  some 
boys  and  one  lost  an  eye.  The  one  who  caused  the 
loss  was  not  more  to  blame  than  the  one  who  suf- 
fered the  loss.  It  was  purely  accidental  and  without 
malice,  and  all  who  were  spectators  so  regarded  it. 
The  one  who  suffered  the  loss  desired  that  no  at- 
tention be  paid  to  the  affair,  but  the  father  and  elder 
relatives  thought  differently.  They  called  a  meet- 
ing of  the  heads  of  the  two  clans  and  discussed  the 
affair  with  great  deliberation,  and  in  a  most  digni- 
fied and  respectful  manner.  The  boys  were  not  con- 
sulted and  there  was  nothing  said  in  reference  to  its 
being  an  accident.  An  eye  was  lost  and  it  must  be 
paid  for,  and  their  custom  is  to  require  the  one 
causing  the  loss  to  give  all  his  property.  In  this 
instance  the  boy  considered  at  fault  was  young  and 
his  father  was  dead,  and  all  his  property  was  three 
head  of  cattle  and  a  sheep.  His  relatives  said  these 
animals  would  be  given ;  but  the  other  boy's  father 
said,  "  No,  that  is  not  sufficient.  I  will  accept  them, 
but  the  affair  will  not  be  settled.  When  he  acquires 
more  property,  I  will  take  that  also."  This  was 
what  the  deliberations  hinged  on.  The  faulty  one 
would  be  unable  to  secure  any  more  property;  it 


406 


AFRICA 


would  all  be  taken  away  from  him,  so  his  elders  were 
willing  to  give  what  the  boy  had,  only  on  condition 
that  that  would  end  the  matter.  It  could  not  be 
settled  that  day,  but  later  the  other  party  agreed  to 
take  that  and  consider  the  affair  settled. 


Cattle    Pen    of   the    Batonga. 


A  little  fire  often  kindles  a  great  conflagration 
among  them.  Once  a  murderer  was  taken  through 
our  premises  on  his  way  to  the  magistrate.  He  had 
come  from  a  distance  and  the  difficulty  was  some- 
thing like  this :  A  native  had  a  needle,  and  his 
neighbor  borrowed  it  and  lost  it.  The  owner  of  the 
needle  demanded  and  received  an  ox  in  pay.  Some 
time  afterward  the  borrower  found  the  needle,  and 
bringing  it  back  to  the  owner  wanted  his  ox  back, 


MACHA   MISSION  407 

but  the  ox  was  dead.  The  trouble  finally  resulted  in 
murder. 

In  marriage  the  question  of  kinship  also  is  promi- 
nent. Marriage  is  not  merely  the  union  of  two 
people,  or  even  two  immediate  families,  but  of  two 
clans,  and  the  prominent  members  of  both  must  be 
consulted.  If  a  man  sees  a  girl  whom  he  wishes  to 
make  his  wife,  he  first  consults  his  parents,  and  if 
there  is  any  objection  among  his  relatives  the  mat- 
ter is  dropped.  If,  however,  they  are  satisfied,  his 
mother  goes  to  the  mother  of  the  girl  and  asks  for 
her  daughter.  If  the  immediate  relatives  of  the 
girl  object  a  negative  answer  is  given.  If  they  look 
with  favor  on  the  proposed  alliance,  they  consult 
the  other  prominent  relatives,  which  may  require 
considerable  time.  Some  one  may  object  because  a 
relative  of  the  proposed  groom  quarreled  a  great 
deal  with  his  wife,  or  some  one  may  affirm  that  he 
is  lazy.  Trouble  that  has  arisen  between  the  clans 
in  the  past,  such  as  that  relating  to  the  boy's  eye, 
may  be  a  formidable  obstacle,  although  the  parties 
concerned  may  have  had  nothing  to  do  with  the  ac- 
cident or  the  settlement  of  it.  If  all  are  agreed,  well 
and  good.  All  this  time  the  bride  has  had  no  voice 
in  the  affair  and  generally  does  not  know  what  is 
transpiring. 

Betrothal  among  these  people  may  take  place 
when  the  girl  is  quite  young,  but  generally  not  until 
the  girl  is  from  14  to  18  years  of  age,  and  then  it  is 
of  short  duration,  as  marriage  follows  soon  after  it 
is  found  that  all  the  relatives  agree.  The  old 
people,  especially  the  mothers,  take  the  affair  in 
hand,  the  interested  parties  merely  following  their 


408 


AFRICA 


instructions.  The  groom  is  told  to  be  ready.  Per- 
haps he  has  been  looking  forward  and  gathering  to- 
gether the  kukwa  (pay  or  dowry)  for  the  occasion. 
He  has  been  buying  hoes,  from  ten  to  twenty  of 
them,  for  these  are  always  a  necessary  part  of  the 
pay,  probably  because  they  are  all  farmers  and  the 


A   Batonga    Family   Traveling. 

native-made  hoes  always  command  a  good  price. 
In  addition  to  these,  he  procures  a  lot  of  cloth, 
beads,  money,  and  some  assegais.  He  freely  calls 
on  his  relatives  and  friends  to  assist  him  in  procur- 
ing the  needed  pay,  for  they  have  had  some  choice 
in  the  affair.  The  day  i?  appointed  for  the  wedding, 
but  before  this  arrives  the  girl  is  informed  who  is 
to  be  her  husband.  She  may  or  may  not  be  pleased ; 
her  choice  in  the  matter  is  wholly  ignored.  She 


MACHA   MISSION  409 

has  been  trained  all  her  life  to  obey,  to  keep  herself 
hid,  and  has  very  little  freedom  until  after  marriage. 
Should  she  even  be  pleased  with  the  choice,  she  is 
expected  for  modesty's  sake  to  protest  and  cry  out 
and  struggle  and  declare  she  will  not  submit. 

The  mother  of  the  bridegroom  takes  the  pay  and 
goes  to  the  house  of  the  bride,  the  groom  and  his 
best  man  following.  They  put  up  a  booth  near  the 
kraal  of  the  bride  for  the  groom  to  occupy.  We  en- 
ter the  village  and  find  the  relatives  of  the  bride, 
from  far  and  near,  assembled  for  the  wedding,  for 
all  these  expect  to  receive  some  of  the  pay.  The 
women  and  the  girls  gather  and  begin  to  sing  the 
marriage  song,  the  tune  of  which  is  always  the 
same,  but  the  words  are  improvised  for  the  occa- 
sion. One  of  the  older  ones  will  lead  off  and  say, 
"  This  girl  is  going  tp  be  married,"  and  the  rest  will 
assent  by  singing  in  unison,  again,  "  We  shall  receive 
some  hoes,  so  that  we  may  dig  our  gardens,"  and 
again  the  response.  All  this  is  done  in  a  monoto- 
nous but  not  altogether  unmusical  manner.  Another 
will  take  up  the  lead,  and  a  day  or  two  will  be  con- 
sumed in  this  way  until  everything  that  can  be 
thought  of  in  reference  to  marriage,  good,  bad,  and 
indifferent,  is  repeated  in  song.  The  bride,  however, 
is  not  among  the  singers.  We  pass  through  the  vil- 
lage and  a  young  woman  beckons  us  to  enter  a  hut. 
The  other  women  greet  us,  but  our  guide  with  a 
smile  mysteriously  leads  us  into  an  inner  chamber. 
Here  is  a  young  woman,  greased  from  head  to  foot, 
so  much  so  that  the  grease  drips  from  her  body.  A 
blanket  is  thrown  around  her  and  over  her  head,  and 
she  keeps  her  eyes  down  in  a  miserable-looking 


410 


AFRICA 


fashion,  as  if  she  were  crying  or  pouting,  and  never 
by  the  least  sign  acknowledges  our  presence.  We 
are  new  to  the  situation,  but  it  suddenly  dawns  upon 
us  that  this  is  the  bride.  We  inquire,  "  What  is  the 
trouble?  Does  she  not  wish  to  be  married?  "  "  Oh. 
yes,"  is  the  answer,  "  but  she  must  be  sad  because 
she  is  a  bride." 


Native  Women — Widows. 


In  the  afternoon  the  relatives  gather  around  the 
hut  of  the  groom  to  receive  their  presents,  and  each 
makes  a  choice.  .  Of  course  they  are  expected  to  be 
reasonable  in  their  demands,  because  sometimes 
there  are  forty  persons  to  receive  presents.  The 
father  or  men  nearly  related  to  the  bride  may  take 
more  liberty ;  one  or  two  sometimes  demand  ten 
shillings.  While  the  best  man  is  trying  to  satisfy 
all  these  demands,  the  groom  is  often  berated  sound- 
ly by  some,  and  even  at  times  suffers  bodily  vio- 


MACHA   MISSION  411 

lence.  If  his  supply  of  goods  is  reasonable  in 
amount,  so  that  nearly  all  are  satisfied,  the  bride  is 
given  to  him  at  once.  If  very  few  presents  are  on 
hand  the  proceedings  may  stop  and  he  or  his  best 
man  be  obliged  to  go  among  his  relatives  and  secure 
more  money  or  goods.  If  he  is  slow  in  this,  difficul- 
ties may  arise  between  him  and  the  girl's  relatives 
until  it  come  to  blows.  Not  long  ago  a  groom,  about 
four  miles  from  Macha,  was  so  violently  attacked 
that  he  died  from  the  blows  given.  This  is  unusual 
at  the  present  day,  but  it  may  have  been  more  com- 
mon formerly.  Even  if  the  wedding  has  passed  off 
all  right  the  girl  does  not  at  once  go  to  cook  for 
her  husband ;  it  may  be  several  months  or  a  year 
before  they  fit  her  out  with  earthen  pots,  baskets, 
and  the  like  and  she  goes  to  housekeeping.  In  the 
meantime  she  is  supposed  to  be  so  modest  that  she 
will  not  speak  to  her  husband  or  lift  her  eyes  in  his 
presence.  The  modesty  of  the  Batonga  girls  is  in 
striking  contrast  with  the  behavior  of  many  other 
African  girls,  and  immorality  does  not  seem  as  prev- 
alent among  the  unmarried  as  in  some  other  places. 
Even  the  Baila  girls  are  much  bolder,  both  in  looks 
and  actions.  If  a  girl  is  bold,  and  goes  about  alone, 
she  may  generally  be  conceded  to  be  of  an  immoral 
character.  When  the  bride  is  finally  taken  to  the 
house  of  her  husband,  the  father  may  demand  a  cow 
or  two  as  additional  pay.  If  the  girl  refuses  to  go, 
she  often  is  carried  by  force.  Sometimes  the  mother 
may  refuse  to  have  the  girl  leave  home,  and  then 
the  husband  is  obliged  to  live  at  the  kraal  of  his 
parents-in-law.  If  he  has  two  wives  he  often  thus 
has  two  homes. 


412  AFRICA 

The  groom  must  always  show  great  respect  for 
the  wife's  parents,  and  especially  for  her  mother. 
When  she  appears  on  the  scene,  he  must  leave,  if 
escape  is  possible ;  otherwise  he  must  sit  quietly, 
not  lifting  his  eyes  in  the  august  presence  of  her 
who  gave  birth  to  his  wife,  so  that  the  life  of  the 
native  who  lives  in  the  same  kraal  with  his  mother- 
in-law  is  not  a  very  pleasant  one.  When  he  meets 


Kabanzi   Chief   with   His   First   Wife. 

his  father-in-law  he  salutes  him  by  clapping  his 
hands,  and  the  salutation  is  returned  by  the  father- 
in-law  tapping  his  chest  with  his  right  hand.  The 
husband  may  never  call  his  wife  by  her  maiden 
name,  but  he  gives  her  a  new  one  of  his  own. 

The  fact  that  the  marriage  is  the  concern  of  so 
many,  and  is  so  rigidly  controlled  by  the  elders, 
places  many  obstacles  in  the  way  of  the  mission- 
aries. It  is  difficult  for  Christian  boys  many  times 


MACHA  MISSION  413 

to  gain  the  hand  of  Christian  girls,  and  for  Christian 
girls  to  be  given  to  Christian  boys,  as  many  of  the 
older  people  "object  to  their  daughters  entering  the 
Christian  clan.  At  present  the  missionary  is  not 
allowed  to  interfere  in  these  native  customs,  and 
the  girl  has  no  recourse.  Custom  says  she  must 
obey  her  parents  and  relatives,  and  the  law  upholds 
custom.  Being  under  such  close  supervision  all 
her  life,  she  has  no  opportunity  of  developing  inde- 
pendence of  thought  and  action  like  her  brother. 
The  missionaries  are  looking  for  better  times,  how- 
ever, and  ask  that  all  who  read  these  lines  pray  that 
the  day  may  speedily  come  when  the  girls  and  boys 
may  have  more  right  of  choice.  We  have  reason  to 
think  that  the  day  is  dawning  when  this  form  of 
slavery  will  also  be  in  the  past. 

Again,  the  fact  that  kinship  has  such  a  hold  upon 
the  people,  and  each  one  is  in  a  measure  responsible 
for  or  dependent  upon  the  rest,  renders  freedom  of 
thought  and  action  difficult  among  all.  It  tends  to 
retard  development  of  character  and  makes  evan- 
gelization difficult  among  them.  It  does  not  inter- 
fere to  the  extent  that  caste  does  in  India,  but  it  is 
by  no  means  a  negligible  quantity.  This  and  blind 
custom  form  pretty  strong  bands,  for  the  native 
does  not  like  to  stand  alone  or  be  odd  from  his  fel- 
lows. When  the  Gospel  is  given  to  the  people  they 
may  appear  to  listen  attentively  and  outwardly  ac- 
cept what  is  said,  but  try  to  press  home  the  question 
to  individual  hearts  and  the  leader  will  answer  for 
all,  "  Yes,  we  are  all  Christians.  We  accept  what 
you  say.  Our  hearts  are  white  toward  God."  One 
who  understands  the  native  character  cannot  avoid 


414 


AFRICA 


MACHA  MISSION  415 

being  skeptical  when  he  hears  of  entire  tribes  turn- 
ing to  the  Lord.  They  may  in  outward  form,  for 
what  is  popular  with  the  leaders  is  popular  with  the 
crowd.  It  is  easy  for  them  to  put  on  the  form  of 
Christianity  and  go  through  all  the  ceremonies  of 
it,  but  with  how  many  there  is  a  change  of  heart 
remains  to  be  seen  by  the  lives  they  lead. 

The  Batonga  do  not  build  as  good  huts  as  the 
Matabele,  nor  do  they  put  in  a  polished  floor;  per- 
haps, because  the  ants  are  so  numerous  in  this  part 
of  the  country,  the  hut  soon  falls  to  pieces  and  must 
be  rebuilt,  even  though  they  may  have  built  it  care- 
fully at  first.  Their  presence  also  may  account  for 
the  Batonga  making  bedsteads  and  chairs,  whereas 
the  Matabele  do  not.  Their  huts  too  are  not  only 
the  home  of  the  people,  but  at  night,  goats,  a  calf 
or  two,  dogs,  and  sometimes  chickens  are  housed 
in  the  same  hut,  so  that  it  would  not  be  easy  to 
keep  a  respectable-looking  place.  As  their  flocks  in- 
crease they  build  separate  huts  for  them,  as  every- 
thing must  be  well  housed  on  account  of  wild  animals. 

In  many  other  ways  they  differ  from  the  Mata- 
bele. They  do  not  have  digging-bees  like  the  Mata- 
bele;  in  fact,  they  do  not  call  their  neighbors  to- 
gether for  any  kind  of  work,  except  that  the  men 
assist  one  another  in  building.  If  they  have  a  beer- 
drink  it  is  a  sociable  gathering  or  a  wailing.  The 
beer  is  brought  and  always  tasted  first  by  the  giver, 
to  show  that  there  is  no  poison  in  the  cup.  Each 
woman  digs  her  own  little  garden  alone,  or  with 
her  children.  When  we  entered  the  country  the 
Matabele  would  not  touch  fish,  the  dislike  being  so 
great  that  it  almost  amounted  to  a  taboo.  Among 


416  AFRICA 

these  people  fish  is  the  staple  article  of  diet.  The 
only  reason  that  seems  plausible  is  that  here  there 
are  many  large  rivers  and  fish  are  abundant,  while 
in  the  other  country  there  are  none.  These  people 
do  not  kill  twins,  but  they  do  the  children  that  cut 
the  upper  teeth  first.  Eggs  are  tabooed  to  unmar- 
ried boys  and  girls,  and  a  superstitious  reason  is 
given  and  strongly  believed  in  by  them ;  but  back 
of  it  the  object  of  the  elders  in  enforcing  the  taboo 
seems  to  have  been  to  prevent  young  Africans  from 
robbing  the  nests  and  lessening  the  supply  of  chicks. 
There  are  many  other  taboos  among  the  tribes 
which  are  strictly  adhered  to,  the  origin  of  which 
could  easily  be  traced  to  expediency. 

The  Batonga  will  tell  you  that  the  assegai  is  the 
weapon  of  the  man  and  the  hoe  of  the  woman.  As 
one  sees  the  men  always  armed  with  assegais,  so 
the  women  generally  carry  a  hoe;  nor  is  it  always 
just  an  ordinary  hoe  for  digging.  Her  husband 
sometimes  procures  for  her  a  dainty  little  hoe,  hav- 
ing the  handle  beautifully  ornamented  with  fine 
woven  wire.  This  has  no  other  use  than  to  be  car- 
ried with  her  as  she  goes  on  a  journey  or  to  a  wail- 
ing, and  she  is  very  proud  of  it  and  nothing  will  in- 
duce her  to  part  with  it. 

They  have  many  forms  of  salutation,  more  than 
any  other  tribe  of  natives  that  I  have  met,  some 
general  and  others  special,  for  morning,  noon,  or 
night,  and  they  are  very  punctilious  about  saluting, 
but  never  in  a  hurry.  They  greet  not  only  the  one 
they  meet,  but  also  inquire  about  his  wife  and  chil- 
dren, especially  the  baby,  and  about  what  he  eats, 
as  well  as  other  questions  in  general.  If  a  number 


MACHA  MISSION  417 

of  persons  are  sitting  down  and  another  group  ap- 
proach, they  too  will  *  be  seated  and  perhaps  a  few 
general  remarks  may  be  made;  then  the  salutation 
begins.  Every  one  in  the  first  group  must  individu- 
ally greet  everyone  in  the  second  group  and  ask 
about  his  health  and  receive  an  answer  to  the  same. 
There  is  no  confusion,  no  hurry.  The  native  does 
not  shake  hands  except  as  he  has  learned  it  from 
the  white  man ;  he  greets  only  by  word  of  mouth, 
or  on  special  occasion  by  embracing. 

A  very  pleasing  incident  in  reference  to  one  of  the 
salutations,  lumela  (rejoice),  is  given  by  Rev.  Chap- 
man, one  of  the  pioneers  of  the  Primitive  Methodist 
Mission,  and  I  give  it  in  detail : 

•  "  One  of  these  old  men  could  still  remember  Dr. 
Livingstone's  visit  to  Sekeletu,  about  1855.  The 
doctor  was  known  among  the  Makololo  as  Moriare. 
When  I  showed  the  old  man  a  photo  of  Dr.  Living- 
stone he  was  greatly  excited. 

"  '  Yes,'  said  he,  '  really  and  truly  that  is  Monare's 
likeness.  He  wore  a  moustache  just  like  that ;  it  is 
indeed  Monare.' 

"  Can  you  really  remember  Monare?'  Tasked. 

" '  Of  course  I  can,'  said  he.  '  Why,  it  was  Mo- 
nare who  brought  us  the  salutation  we  generally 
use.  Before  Monare  came  we  used  to  say,  when  we 
met  a  friend  on  the  path,  "  Utshohile  "  ["  You  have 
got  up"].  But  when  Monare  came  he  said,  "Lu- 
mela" ["Rejoice"],  and  we  replied,  "E  Lumela 
ntate"  ["Yes,  rejoice,  my  father"].  Why,  it  was 
he  who  told  the  Makololo  to  live  in  peace,  and  rule 
their  people  well.  See  how  white  my  beard  is?  Of 
course  I  can  remember  Monare.' " 


CHAPTER   THIRTEEN 
Later  Years 

THE  work  at  Macha  continued  to  develop 
slowly  but  steadily.  There  are  many  daily 
duties  which  always  fall  to  the  lot  of  the 
missionary  and  which  might  be  classed  under  the 
head  of  drudgery,  which  do  not  seem  to  count,  and 
yet  they  are  as  necessary  for  the  advancement  of 
the  work  as  the  more  noticeable  ones,  and  the  year 
1912  was  no  exception  to  this  rule. 

During  the  rainy  season  there  was  also  a  very 
anxious  time,  as  Baby  Ruth  became  very  sick  with 
infantile  remittent  fever.  For  over  a  month  she  was 
very  ill  and  we  were  afraid  that  we  might  lose  her. 
Day  after  day  she  lay  with  her  face  almost  as  white 
as  the  pillow,  except  for  a  bright  spot  on  either 
cheek.  The  nearest  doctor  was  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  away,  and  the  station  through  which  two 
trains  weekly  ran  was  thirty-six  miles  distant,  so 
that  medical  aid  seemed  impossible,  save  that  given 
by  her  parents,  who  anxiously  and  tenderly  minis- 
tered unto  her;  but  many  prayers  ascended  in  her 
behalf  and  the  Lord  had  compassion  on  us  and  re- 
stored her  to  health.  This  climate  is  treacherous 
for  grown  people,  but  especially  so  for  children. 

We  have  as  yet  mentioned  nothing  in  reference  to 
the  medical  part  of  the  work.  This  was  not  a  prom- 
inent feature,  yet  from  the  first  all  who  came  for 
418 


MACHA   MISSION 


419 


420  AFRICA 

help  received  attention  and  many  were  cured  or 
permanently  helped.  All  kinds  of  diseases  are  to  be 
met  with  in  this  climate,  in  addition  to  fever.  Skin 
diseases  seem  especially  prevalent  in  many  forms, 
some  of  them  the  most  loathsome  imaginable ;  and 
nearly  every  village  also  has  its  quota  of  from  two 
to  four  lepers.  These  lepers  freely  mingle  with  the 
rest  of  the  people,  no  effort  whatever  being  made  to 
segregate  them.  The  native  will  affirm  that  leprosy 
is  not  contagious,  it  is  hereditary,  and  there  is  rea- 
son for  this  view  of  the  case.  It  makes  the  heart 
ache  to  see  women  without  toes  and  sometimes 
without  fingers,  and  full  of  sores,  nursing  beautiful, 
innocent  babies,  when  we  think  what  a  life  is  before 
these  little  ones. 

These  people  also  have  their  own  remedies.  When 
one  is  suffering  with  pain  in  any  part  of  the  body, 
a  very  common  remedy  is  to  resort  to  cupping.  For 
this  purpose  they  use  the  horns  of  animals,  usually 
of  goats.  I  once  watched  one  woman  cupping  an- 
other. With  a  knife  or  piece  of  sharp  tin,  she  made 
two  incisions  in  the  flesh  where  the  pain  was.  She 
then  placed  the  large  end  of  the  horn  on  this,  and 
with  her  mouth  on  the  small  end  she  removed  all 
the  air  from  the  horn,  which  soon  became  filled,  or 
nearly  so,  with  blood.  Leaving  this  horn  on  the 
place,  she  in  a  similar  manner  applied  another  horn, 
until  three  or  four  had  been  applied  at  various 
places.  She  then  carefully  removed  them,  one  at  a 
time.  Since  the  object  had  been  to  extract  the 
blood,  it  had  certainly  been  successful,  and  in  some 
respects  the  natives  are  only  half  a  century  behind — 
that  is  all. 


MACHA  MISSION  421 

In  some  diseases  they  very  readily  come  to  us, 
and  sometimes  fifteen 'or  twenty  are  present  at  once, 
awaiting  their  turn.  At  other  times  we  are  called 
to  the  villages  to  minister  to  them.  Once  some 
natives  came  from  the  nearest  village  to  say  that  a 
woman  was  dying.  Her  husband  at  the  time  was 
one  of  the_  carriers  for  the  brethren  on  their  trip 
north.  We  hastened  over  and  found  her  in  a  little 
dark  hut,  where  we  could  see  nothing,  so  they  were 
told  to  carry  her  out  into  the  light,  that  we  might 
see  her.  The  livid  spots,  spongy  gums,  and  extreme 
debility  all  helped  to  indicate  a  bad  case  of  scurvy. 
She  was  seemingly  in  the  last  stages,  and  we  were 
fearful  that  the  call  for  help  had  come  too  late.  It 
was  a  year  of  great  scarcity  of  food  among  the  na- 
tives, and  from  the  report  she  must  have  been  liv- 
ing chiefly  on  a  sort  of  greens,  with  no  salt  even  to 
season  it.  It  was  now  about  dark,  and  they  said 
that  if  something  was  not  done  at  once  she  could 
scarcely  live  until  morning.  We  looked  to  the  Lord 
for  direction  and  then  hastened  home  to  procure  the 
needed  food,  which  in  this  instance  was  quite  simple, 
salt  water,  and  boiled-down  grape  juice,  with  a  lit- 
tle vinegar.  These  were  used  carefully  during  the 
night,  and  in  the  morning  she  had  improved  suffi- 
ciently to  eat  other  food.  In  a  few  days  she  was 
able  to  be  up,  and  her  husband,  on  the  way  home, 
was  informed  that  she  had  been  raised  from  the 
dead. 

As  the  work  advanced,  we  arranged  to  use  one  of 
the  huts  for  a  hospital,  where  those  who  desired 
might  remain  and  be  treated,  and  a  number  availed 
themselves  of  the  opportunity.  Both  Mr.  and  Mrs. 


422  AFRICA 

Taylor  were  quite  successful  in  medical  work,  and 
some  difficult  cases  came  for  treatment.  In  this 
year  Brother  Taylor  treated  some  very  severe 
wounds,  ulcers,  cancer,  a  boy  with  his  hands  blown 
to  pieces  by  gunpowder,  a  native  badly  lacerated  by 
a  leopard,  and  an  European  who  had  accidentally 
shot  himself,  in  addition  to  other  cases.  We  have 
also  had  opportunity  at  other  times  of  ministering 
to  white  people. 

Whether  or  not  the  missionaries  have  had  train- 
ing in  such  work  in  civilized  countries,  the  exi- 
gencies of  their  surroundings,  far  from  doctors  and 
medical  help,  necessitate  their  devoting  time  and 
study  to  the  cases  continually  brought  before  them. 
Many  of  them  become  quite  proficient  in  treating 
diseases;  and  perhaps  some,  in  time,  become  by 
practice  more  skilled  in  treating  diseases  of  trop- 
ical climates  than  some  physicians  of  temperate 
zones  would  be,  who  were  unused  to  tropical  dis- 
eases, even  though  they  might  display  their  sheep- 
skin to  show  a  theoretical  knowledge  of  the  science. 
The  safest  and  best  course,  however,  would  be  to 
acquire  some  of  the  theoretical  knowledge  before 
coming  to  Africa,  and  then  be  ready  for  the  practice. 

It  is  needless  to  state  that  the  missionary's  prac- 
tice among  the  natives  is  not  a  lucrative  one.  Med- 
icines are  very  expensive,  and  a  physician  must  have 
a  diploma  from  an  English  medical  college  before 
he  may  charge  for  his  professional  services  in  an 
English  colony.  Even  then  his  heathen  patients  are 
not  prepared  to  pay  much  should  he  feel  to  charge 
— which  he  generally  does  not.  The  missionary's 
labor  is  one  of  love,  and  he  rejoices  that  he  has  the 


MACHA  MISSION  423 


Ruth    Taylor. 

privilege,  in  a  small  degree,  of  being  a  follower  of 
the  Great  Physician.  Aid  for  the  body  of  the  na- 
tives is  one  of  the  best  ways  of  reaching  their  hearts 
and  souls. 

During  the  two  weeks'  vacation  in  July  some  of 
us  concluded  to  spend  the  time  in  evangelistic  work 
among  the  villages.  We  knew  the  change  to  out- 


424  AFRICA 

door  life  also  would  be  beneficial  to  ourselves.  There 
was  one  village,  Kabwe,  composed  chiefly  of  Baila 
people,  where  an  interest  was  being  manifested,  and 
several  there  had  been  attending  school.  This  was 
distant  about  fourteen  miles  by  wagon  road,  and  we 
decided  to  go  there,  David  and  his  wife  and  the 
dear  little  baby,  who  had  come  to  bless  their  home, 
accompanying.  Word  was  sent  ahead  that  the  peo- 
ple should  erect  a  temporary  straw  hut  for  them, 
while  I  occupied  the  tent  wagon.  When  we  reached 
the  place  we  found  everything  prepared  and  in 
readiness  for  us,  and  the  people  also.  We  received 
a  royal  welcome  from  all  and  were  soon  comfortably 
situated.  There  were  fifty  huts  in  this  village,  and 
every  evening  after  the  people  had  finished  their 
day's  work  and  had  eaten  their  suppers,  about  fifty 
or  sixty  of  them  would  come  to  us,  sit  around  our 
bright  log  fire,  and  listen  most  attentively  while 
the  Word  was  being  expounded,  and  then  quietly 
kneel  in  prayer,  and  mingle  their  voices  with  ours  in 
song.  In  the  morning  again,  before  they  went  to 
their  gardens  to  dig,  they  would  assemble  for  serv- 
ices. On  Sunday  we  gathered  on  the  side  of  an 
ant  hill,  in  the  shade  of  some  trees,  and  here  a 
much  larger  number  came  for  services.  Generally 
during  the  day  David  would  go  to  the  surrounding 
villages  and  proclaim  Christ. 

There  were  several  in  this  village  who  occasion- 
ally came  to  Macha  on  Saturday  and  stayed  for 
Sunday  services.  One  Saturday  evening  at  Macha, 
after  the  rest  of  the  natives  had  passed  out  of  the 
evening  worship,  two  women  from  this  place  re- 
mained for  inquiry  and  prayer.  They  very  humbly 


MACHA   MISSION  425 

confessed  their  past  life  and  said  they  wished  to  be 
Christians.  We  knelt  in  prayer,  and  I  think  I  never 
before  heard  raw  natives  pour  out  their  hearts  in 
such  intelligent  and  heartfelt  petitions  as  they  did, 
and  their  prayers  for  pardon  were  heard.  We  were 
pleased  to  learn,  while  we  were  at  Kabwe,  that  these 
women  were  standing  true  and  being  a  light  to  the 
rest. 

One  evening  during  the  meetings  at  this  place,  an 
unusual  number  of  natives  were  gathered  around 
the  fire,  and  the  Word  was  preached  by  our  native 
evangelist  with  unusual  power.  A  hymn  had  been 
sung  and  prayer  offered,  and  the  people  were  told 
that  they  could  go  home.  Still  they  sat  there  with- 
out a  word  being  spoken,  and  they  were  evidently 
in  deep  thought.  Finally  a  girl  arose,  and  coming 
forward  weeping  said,  "  I  want  to  be  a  Christian. 
Will  you  pray  for  me?  "  Before  we  knelt,  a  general 
invitation  -was  given  to  others  who  desired  to  ac- 
cept Christ  to  come  forward.  This  evidently  was 
what  they  wanted,  and  at  once  men,  women,  and 
girls  began  to  press  forward  and  kneel,  and  we  had 
a  most  blessed  season  with  them  as  one  after  an- 
other began  to  open  their  hearts  to  the  Lord  in 
prayer.  It  was  a  melting  and  breaking-up  time. 
Among  the  number  who  came  was  the  chief  of  the 
village  and  several  other  elderly  men  and  women. 
The  next  morning  they  again  came  together.  David 
had  gone  to  other  villages  for  the  day,  but  his  wife 
and  I  held  the  service.  This  time,  as  soon  as  op- 
portunity offered  the  people  began  to  confess  their 
sins  and  say  that  they  wished  to  leave  their  past 
lives  and  follow  Christ.  Nor  do  we  have  any  rea- 


426 


AFRICA 


MACHA   MISSION  427 

son  to  doubt  their  sincerity.  The  world  about  them, 
peopled  with  malevolent  spirits,  seeking  to  do  them 
harm,  and  their  own  accusing  conscience  would  nat- 
urally drive  them  to  a  Savior  Who  can  give  them 
rest  and  peace.  Praise  God!  He  can  give  even 
these  older  ones  freedom  from  the  chains  of  dark- 
ness. 

Since  we  find  the  younger  ones  more  easily  per- 
suaded, I  believe  we  too  soon  become  discouraged 
with  the  older  ones  and  expect  too  much  of  them, 
or  too  sudden  a  transformation  in  their  lives.  I 
was  pleased  by  a  few  sentences  in  Brother  Prey's 
letter  under  date  of  April  4,  1914.  He  says: 

"  Last  Sunday  there  was  a  goodly  number  of  the 
old  men  present.  We  have  sent  out  word  that 
Brother  Steigerwald  will  have  a  special  message 
for  the  old  on  next  Sunday,  and  we  are  giving  a 
special  invitation  to  all  the  old  men  to  come.  .  .  . 
A  number  of  these  old  men  have  been  coming  more 
or  less  regularly  for  some  time.  Will  you  not  join 
with  us  that  they  might  be  saved?  " 

That  is  the  right  spirit,  and  what  Brother  Frey 
is  seeking  to  do  at  Mtyabezi  we  can  all  do.  The  old 
want  to  feel  that  we  have  a  special  interest  in  their 
salvation,  and  that  we  are  not  going  to  leave  them 
to  themselves  in  the  struggle ;  but  let  us  help  them 
to  know  that  there  is  One  Who  can  and  will  set 
them  free  if  they  will  only  come.  In  this  little 
meeting  at  Kabwe  even  some  of  the  older  ones  who 
started  are  still  striving  to  get  on  the  Rock.  One 
middle-aged  man  and  his  wife,  who  came  forward 
that  night,  have  finally  moved  near  the  mission  and 
built  them  a  hut  there,  so  that  they  might  learn 


428  AFRICA 

more  about  Jesus.  The  chief  very  strongly  urged 
our  starting  a  school  at  that  place,  which  we  did 
not  long  afterwards. 

We  remained  at  this  place  nine  days  and  then 
moved  to  Simeoba's  village.  Although  some  of  the 
other  missionaries  had  visited  this  village,  I  had  nev- 
er had  the  privilege  previous  to  this.  It  is  larger  than 
the  rest  and  is  made  up  of  three  different  tribes  of 
people,  Batonga,  Barotse,  and  Baila,  but  the  lan- 
guage of  all  is  more  or  less  similar.  They  were  stran- 
ger and  more  shy  than  those  at  Kabwe,  and  as  soon 
as  we  reached  the  place,  Mankunku  and  I  went 
through  the  village  to  meet  and  learn  to  know  the 
people.  .  Everywhere  we  were  kindly  received. 
They  were  greatly  surprised  to  see  a  white  woman 
who  could  speak  their  language ;  and  as  the  word 
was  passed  along,  one  after  another  would  come  and 
join  the  number  who  were  conversing.  About  all 
were  in  ordinary  native  garb,  but  there  were  two 
or  three  who  evidently  had  been  down  to  Bulawayo 
to  work,  and  they  prided  themselves  on  their  Euro- 
pean clothes ;  especially  did  one  of  these  step  about 
as  if  lord  of  the  place.  Some  of  the  sick  asked  for 
help  and  were  ministered  unto,  and  we  were  pleased 
to  learn  that  some  were  helped.  All  were  invited 
to  assemble  around  our  fire  in  the  evening  for  serv- 
ices, and  as  soon  as  their  suppers  were  over  they 
began  to  gather,  about  one  hundred  in  number, 
around  the  bright,  blazing  fire,  the  shy  ones  keep- 
ing in  the  background  where  they  could  not  be  seen. 
Many  of  them  no  doubt  had  never  been  at  a  service 
before,  while  a  few  who  had  been  at  school  at 
Macha  could  help  sing.  One  or  two  of  those  more 


MACHA  MISSION 


429 


pretentiously  dressed  than  the  rest  evidently  had 
attended  meeting  elsewhere,  and  were  at  this  meet- 


David  Moyo  and  His  Wif 


ing  self-appointed  law-and-order  men.  With  such 
a  raw  crowd  as  most  of  these  were,  we  always  try 
to  sing  easy  hymns  in  which  there  is  a  great  deal  of 


430  AFRICA 

repetition ;  we  also  line  the  hymns  before  singing 
and  have  them  repeat  after  us,  so  that  it  was  not 
long  before  nearly  all  joined  in  the  singing.  Kneel- 
ing in  prayer  is  so  new  an  experience  that  some  of 
the  uninitiated  sometimes  consider  it  amusing  and 
begin  to  laugh.  In  this  instance  two  or  three  girls 
caused  some  disturbance  while  we  were  in  prayer; 
and  we  were  scarcely  on  our  feet  when  one  of  the 
self-constituted  policemen  jumped  Over  some  of  the 
others  and  soundly  berated  the  offenders.  Order 
was  then  restored  and  the  service  proceeded  with- 
out any  further  interruption,  after  which  the  meet- 
ing closed. 

The  next  morning  I  was  awakened  by  a  woman 
outside  my  tent  clapping  her  hands  and  thanking 
me,  saying,  "  You  are  my  healer."  She  had  been  af- 
flicted with  neuralgia  the  day  before ;  and  on  asking 
for  medicine,  she  had  been  given  a  cup  of  very 
strong  hot  lemonade,  which  had  cured  her. 

This  day  was  Sunday,  and  as  the  people  were 
again  invited  to  assemble,  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  came,  and  we  had  an  interesting  service  to 
an  attentive  congregation.  We  then  turned  our 
faces  homeward,  stopping  on  the  way  at  Kabanzi, 
one  of  our  regular  preaching  places,  and  holding 
a  service.  We  reached  home  that  night,  ready  for 
school,  which  was  to  open  the  next  day,  and  ^feeling 
greatly  benefited  by  our  outing. 

We  were  all  at  this  time  well  housed,  but  there 
still  was  need  of  a  good  store  building,  as  the  old 
ones  which  had  been  used  for  this  purpose  were 
about  all  tumbling  down,  David  had  already  made 


MACHA  MISSION 


431 


432  AFRICA 

some  brick,  so  after  our  return  he  began  on  the 
building,  with  the  assistance  of  some  of  the  boys. 
He  erected  a  very  good  building  33  x  16  feet,  con- 
taining two  small  rooms  and  one  large  one,  with  a 
veranda  around  it.  It  was  a  good  piece  of  work 
and  was  finished  in  about  two  months.  The  large 
room  was  for  his  wife  and  child. 

David  had  never  been  satisfied  with  his  educa- 
tion and  was  still  anxious  to  attend  school,  especial- 
ly an  English  school.  He  had  some  opportunity  for 
private  instruction  at  Macha,  and  also  taught  part 
of  the  time,  but  generally  there  were  so  many  du- 
ties and  responsibilities,  both  temporal  and  spiritual, 
resting  upon  him  that  he  had  very  little  time  for 
study,  and  he  felt  that  he  must  get  away  where 
school  work  would  be  his  first  work.  We  greatly 
preferred  that  he  remain  and  continue  his  labors  at 
Macha,  but  he  no  doubt  realized  that  the  pupils  too 
were  progressing,  and  he  needed  more  knowledge  if 
he  was  to  continue  as  teacher.  The  latter  part  of 
September  he  started  for  Natal  to  attend  school.  We 
receive  a  good  report  of  him  from  his  teachers.  He 
is  said  to  exert  a  good  influence  over  the  other  boys 
in  the  school,  and  he  is  also  frequently  called  upon 
to  do  evangelistic  work  among  them.  Will  you  not 
join  with  us  that  he  may  be  kept  humble  and  not 
get  away  from  his  call  to  give  the  Gospel  beyond 
the  Zambezi? 

His  wife  remains  with  us  to  help  in  the  capacity 
of  Bible  woman.  Their  little  girl  is  a  dear,  bright, 
intelligent  child  as  she  grows  up  amid  civilized  sur- 
roundings, and  is  a  good  example  of  what  a  better 
environment  will  do  for  these  people. 


MACHA  MISSION  433 

Sister  Taylor  had  now  been  away  from  America 
nearly  eight  years  and-  had  not  been  to  the  seashore 
for  a  change  of  climate  since  coming  to  Interior 
Africa.  She  had  enjoyed  good  health  nearly  all  that 
time  and  had  been  diligent  in  season  and  out  of  sea- 
son in  the  Master's  business.  She  was  a  most  use- 
ful and  resourceful  missionary  always,  but  the  time 
had  come  when  she  was  in  sore  need  of  a  furlough 
to  the  homeland.  Brother  Taylor  too  had  not  been 
to  the  seashore,  and  it  was  necessary  for  both  of 
them  to  leave.  They  were  greatly  needed  in  the 
work  at  Macha,  and  we  could  not  see  how  we  could 
get  along  without  them,  but  too  many  missionaries 
on  the  field  have,  under  the  pressure  of  work  and 
the  needs  about  them,  remained  longer  than  was 
expedient,  and  paid  the  penalty  with  their  lives.  In 
February,  1913,  they  left  Macha  for  their  homeward 
journey. 

About  two  months  previous  to  this  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Jesse  Wenger  had  returned  to  Africa,  and  came  to 
Macha  to  take  the  place  of  the  Taylors.  Unfor- 
tunately, however,  both  of  them  were  stricken  down 
with  fever  about  two  weeks  after  reaching  the  mis- 
sion station.  They  remained  seven  months,  and 
during  that  time  there  was  almost  one  continual 
combat  with  fever,  especially  on  the  part  of  Brother 
Wenger.  United  with  this  was  great  nervous  dis- 
order and  prostration,  so  that  it  seemed  impossible 
for  him  to  stand  the  climate.  They  greatly  desired 
to  remain  and  continue  the  work,  but  since  it  seemed 
impossible  for  him  to  endure  the  climate,  he  wrote 
to  Elder  Steigerwald,  who  finally  arranged  for  them 
to  try  Johannesburg.  We  felt  sorry,  both  on  Broth- 


434  AFRICA 

er  Wenger's  account  and  for  the  sake  of  the  work, 
that  they  were  unable  to  remain  on  the  field. 

During  the  time  of  these  seemingly  necessary 
changes  among  the  missionaries  at  Macha,  the  work 
continued  to  grow  and  develop.  There  was  no  in- 
crease in  the  number  of  boys,  but  some  of  those 
who  had  been  with  us  were  proving  helpful  as 
teachers  and  evangelists  among  the  people.  The 
work  had  been  branching  out  and  six  schools  were 
started;  in  some  of  which  men,  women,  boys,  and 
girls  were  attending.  In  the  early  years  the  con- 
verts were  of  those  staying  at  the  mission ;  but  since 
the  opening  of  the  out-schools  the  work  was  spread- 
ing much  more  rapidly,  and  some  of  the  married 
people,  as  well  as  the  girls,  had  accepted  Christ  and 
were  living  exemplary  lives  in  their  homes.  These 
also  attended  the  Inquirers'  Class  and  church  serv- 
ices at  Macha  on  Sunday. 

There  are  several  services  held- each  week  at  the 
mission.  Besides  the  daily  worship,  there  is  on 
Sunday  morning  an  Inquirers'  Class  and  a  Mem- 
bers' Class,  both  held  at  the  same  hour  but  in  differ- 
ent rooms.  These  are  held  on  this  day  because  so 
many  have  far  to  come.  Then  comes  the  general 
church  service,  followed  by  Sunday-school,  for 
which  all  remain.  In  the  evening  there  is  a  song 
and  Scripture  service  for  those  staying  at  the  mis- 
sion. Thursday  morning  early  is  a  midweek  serv- 
ice and  testimony  meeting;  and  on  Friday  night  the 
Christian  natives  have  their  prayer  meeting,  pre- 
sided over  by  one  of  their  number,  while  the  mis- 
sionaries have  a  prayer  meeting  in  English.  In 
addition  to  these  there  is  a  monthly  prayer  day,  the 


MACHA   MISSION 


435 


Batonga   Chiefs,    Near   Macha   Mission. 


436  AFRICA 

first  Friday  of  each  month,  on  which  day  all  our 
out-schools  are  closed  and  teachers  and  many  of  the 
pupils  meet  with  us. 

These  were  often  times  of  great  blessing  to  all 
of  us,  one  of  which  especially  might  be  mentioned, 
the  first  Friday  in  May,  1913.  On  this  day  there 
were  nearly  one  hundred  natives  present,  consisting 
of  members  and  class  members;  and  eight  of  our 
boys  who  had  been  south  to  work  for  a  year  had 
just  returned  home  and  were  present.  On  such 
days  many  of  the  Christians  were  accustomed  to 
spend  the  early  morning  hours  out  alone  in  secret 
prayer,  before  the  opening  of  the  meeting.  On  the 
above  date,  as  we  stepped  into  the  church  in  the 
morning,  we  realized  that  there  was  unusual  mani- 
festation of  the  Spirit's  presence  among  us.  Sev- 
eral of  the  boys  took  part  in  the  opening  seasons  of 
prayer  in  a  very  impressive  manner.  We  read  a 
Scripture  lesson  and  for  a  short  time  spoke  on 
cleansing  and  consecration  and  the  infilling  of  the 
Spirit,  and  they  were  unusually  attentive,  which  al- 
ways helps  the  speaker.  Expectation  of  some  kind 
seemed  in  the  air.  The  testimony  meeting  opened 
with  heartfelt  testimonies.  Then  one's  testimony 
became  a  prayer  for  greater  outpouring  of  the  Spir- 
it. Again  we  knelt  and  he  continued  in  prayer. 
Suddenly  the  very  house  seemed  shaken,  and  with 
one  accord  all  were  prostrate  before  the  Lord.  Some 
were  smitten  with  a  spirit  of  conviction ;  others  be- 
gan a  service  of  praise,  and  still  others  lay  low,  let- 
ting the  Lord  talk  to  them  and  fill  them  with  His 
own  Holy  Spirit.  The  united  prayers  continued  for 
two  or  more  hours,  and  while  there  was  noise  of 


MACHA  MISSION  437 

prayer  and  praise  there  could  not  be  said  to  be  any 
disorder,  as  all  but  one  or  two  remained  at  their 
places.  Many  received  a  deeper  understanding  and 
experience  of  Divine  things  that  day.  Once  Brother 
and  Sister  Wenger  and  myself  began  to  sing,  but 
they  continued  in  prayer  and  we  stopped  singing. 
There  were  some  present  who  probably  received  no 
benefit.  In  Africa,  as  in  America,  there  are  some 
at  such  times  who  follow  the  rest  outwardly  at 
least,  but  do  not  seem  to  be  benefited  in  heart. 

The  latter  part  of  June  Elder  Steigerwald  came 
to  see  about  the  work  at  Macha.  It  had  been  one 
and  one-half  years  since  his  last  visit,  and  we  were 
glad  for  the  privilege  of  again  welcoming  him. 
With  him  was  Miss  Elizabeth  Engle,  who  had  for 
six  years  been  a  most  valued  worker  at  Mtyabezi 
Mission ;  also  Mr.  L.  B.  Steckley,  who  had  two 
years  ago  come  out  from  Canada  as  a  missionary 
and  was  helping  in  the  work  at  Matopo.  These  two 
were  to  take  up  the  work  at  Macha,  while  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Wenger  proceeded  to  the  Transvaal,  to  occupy 
the  station  at  Boxburg,  thus  enabling  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Jesse  Eyster  to  return  home  on  furlough. 

While  Elder  Steigerwald  was  with  us  at  this  time, 
eighteen  native  Christians  were  baptized  and  re- 
ceived into  the  Church.  Among  them  were  several 
married  men,  three  women,  and  four  girls.  Some 
of  these  were  the  first  fruits  of  the  out-schools.  We 
rejoiced  that  at  last  we  enjoyed  the  privilege  of 
partaking  of  the  Lord's  supper  with  some  dark- 
skinned  sisters  of  the  Batonga  tribe.  It  was  now 
nearly  seven  years  since  the  mission  had  opened  in  this 
place,  and  these  were  the  first  native  women  to  join 


438  AFRICA 

with  us.  The  women  had  also  been  slow  to  desire 
civilized  clothing,  for  our  desire  had  been  to  im- 
press upon  them  more  the  inner  than  the  outer 
adornment.  They  were,  however,  becoming  anx- 
ious to  be  clothed,  and  as  many  of  the  boys  who 
had  now  grown  to  manhood  had  adopted  European 
clothing,  our  congregations  were  quite  different  in 
appearance  from  the  old  days.  At  this  time  also 
two  couples  were  united  in  Christian  marriage. 
These  were  the  first  native  Christian  marriages  at 
Macha.  Since  natives  are  so  often  inclined  to  ex- 
tremes-on  the  dress  question,  in  marriage,  we  made 
it  a  special  point  to  say  nothing  about  new  clothing 
for  the  occasion. 

A  number  of  others  made  application  for  baptism, 
but  it  was  thought  best  for  some  to  wait  awhile,  so 
six  months  later  Elder  Steigerwald  came  to  Macha 
again.  This  time  he  was  accompanied  by  his  wife 
and  Sister  Doner.  Ten  more  natives  were  bap- 
tized and  there  were  several  candidates  who  could 
not  meet  with  us  at  this  time.  There  were  also 
three  more  couples  united  in  Christian  marriage. 
There  have  been  fifty-nine  baptized  at  this  place, 
but  three  or  four  were  not .  as  true  as  we  could 
have  desired.  One  of  those  who  had  backslidden 
v/as  the  first  boy  brought  to  the  mission,  the  son  of 
Macha.  He  had  never  been  very  zealous  in  the 
Master's  service,  and  yet  his  life  had  seemed  con- 
sistent. The  Lord  may  find  a  way  into  his  heart 
again. 

It  frequently  happens  on  the  mission  field  that 
young  boys  will  come  to  the  station,  learn,  and  then 


MACHA   MISSION  439 

leave  without  any  special  manifestation  that  the 
Gospel  has  entered  their  hearts,  yet  an  impression 
has  been  made  on  their  plastic  minds,  and  it  often 
follows  and  convicts  them  later  in  life.  So  the  mis- 
sionary need  not  be  discouraged  if  the  first  or  sec- 
ond invitation  fails  to  bring  the  native  to  the  foot  of 
the  Cross. 

\Ye  greatly  enjoyed  the  visit  of  Brother  and  Sis- 
ter Steigerwald,  and  were  eager  for  them  to  see 
some  of  the  out-schools.  We  started  out  for  this 
purpose,  but  were  all  taken  with  fever,  one  after 
another,  and  the  visits  had  to  be  abandoned.  Sfster 
Doner  had  come  to  assist  in  the  work  at  Macha  and 
take  charge  of  the  school.  She  and  Brother  Freys 
had  just  returned  from  a  furlough  to  America,  and 
as  I  had  now  been  in  the  work  nearly  nine  years 
and  needed  a  change,  she,  together,  with  Sister  En- 
gle  and  Brother  Steckley,  was  to  take  charge  here 
during  my  furlough.  The  latter  two  had  been  at 
the  place  some  months  and  were  beginning  to  know 
and  understand  the  people  and  surroundings.  Sister 
Engle  in  her  capacity  as  nurse  was  having  ample 
opportunity  to  care  for  the  sick,  who  were  always 
glad  for  help.  She  is  always  a  most  capable  and 
willing  worker  wherever  needed.  Brother  Steckley 
too  is  a  consecrated  soldier  of  the  Cross  and  ready 
for  whatever  comes  to  him. 


CHAPTER    FOURTEEN 
The  Out-Stations 

Every  place  that  the  sole  of  your  foot  shall  tread  upon, 
that  I  have  given  unto  yon. — Joshua  1:  3. 

JUST  as  the  Lord  told  Joshua  to  rise  up  and 
take  possession  of  the  land  of  Canaan  for  God 
and  His  people,  so  we  believe  He  is  saying  to 
all  missionaries  whom  He  sends  out  into  the  midst 
of  the  enemy's  country,  that  He  has  given  the  peo- 
ple unto  them  and  they  should  rise  and  take  posses- 
sion in  God's  name.     We  often  live  beneath  our 
privileges  in  this,  and  our  faith  so  soon  becomes 
weak  and  wavering.       God  also  says  to  us,  "  Be 
strong  and  of  good  courage." 

There  are  two  objects  which  seem  paramount  on 
the  mission  field,  and  about  which  everything  else 
revolves.  These  are,  (1)  the  salvation  of  souls,  and 
(2)  the  preparation  of  natives  to  become  teachers 
and  evangelists  of  their  people.  Dispense  with 
these  fundamental  objects  and  one  might  as  well 
remain  at  home.  Missionaries  may  differ  in  regard 
to  the  best  methods  of  carrying  out  these  purposes, 
and  some  may  even  object  to  the  statement  just 
made.  With  some  missionaries,  education  and  civi- 
lization hold  a  very  prominent  place,  and  with  a 
few  missionary  work  spells  education  and  civiliza- 
tion, and  we  are  sorry  to  say  that  the  number  who 
take  this  view  is  increasing.  The  great  body  of 
440 


MACHA   MISSION  441 

missionaries,  however,  of  whatever  name,  are  such 
from  love  of  souls.  The  aim  should  be  to  get  the 
native  really  saved  and  on  the  Rock,  Christ  Jesus, 
so  that  he  may  become  a  light  in  his  home.  At  the 
same  time  we  should  seek  to  train  him  to  become  a 
soul-winner  among  his  people,  so  that  a  knowledge 
of  God  may  be  spread  over  the  country.  In  this 
way  only  can  the  Great  Commission  be  successfully 
carried  out. 

In  Africa,  especially,  are  teachers  needed  on  the 
mission  field,  for  before  the  missionary  comes  there 
is  no  written  language,  much  less  any  who  can 
read.  To  teach  the  people  to  read  the  Word  is  not 
only  desirable,  but  it  is  an  absolute  necessity  if  it 
is  to  be  a  Light  unto  their  feet  in  that  dark  land. 
We  do  not  claim  that  a  native  cannot  be  a  Christian 
unless  he  can  read,  for  some  of  the  older  ones  live 
exemplary  Christian  lives,  although  unable  to  read 
the  Word ;  but  among  the  younger  generation  they 
very  seldom  become  established  Christians  if  they 
are  not  willing  to  apply*  themselves  sufficiently  to 
study  so  that  they  are  at  least  able  to  read  the 
Word  of  God  understandingly.  Then  too  the  spread 
of  the  Gospel  cannot  continue  unless  some  are  able 
to  read. 

I  call  to  mind  two  able  and  Spirit-filled  mission- 
aries who  spent  two  years  in  self-sacrificing  labors 
among  the  natives  of  Africa.  They  went  about  from 
place  to  place,  giving  the  Gospel  to  the  people,  and 
they  were  liked  by  the  people  and  frequently  had 
many  attentive  listeners.  Several  years  after  they 
returned  home  one  of  them  wrote,  "  We  spent  two 
years  in  giving  the  Gospel  to  the  Africans,  and  yet 


442  AFRICA 

we  cannot  point  to  one  soul  whom  we  definitely 
helped."  We  believe  they  underestimated  the  value 
of  their  work,  for  they  always  aimed  to  labor  in 
harmony  with  other  missionaries  on  the  field  and 
would  advise  natives  to  go  to  the  nearest  mission 
station.  Yet  the  fact  remains  that  unless  the  young- 
er Christian  natives  attend  school  and  learn  to  read 
the  Word,  and  have  it  instilled  into  their  minds 
from  day  to  day,  they  are  apt  to  forget  and  wander 
away. 

I  have  dwelt  thus  at  length  on  the  educational 
feature  of  the  work,  because  there  are  many  good 
Christians  who  fail  to  understand  why  so  much  of 
a  missionary's  time  is  occupied  in  teaching  the  na- 
tives. It  is  simply  for  the  reason  that  that  is  the 
only  means  they  have  of  learning  to  read  the  Wrord 
of  God.  Among  the  natives  of  Africa  there  are  no 
schools  but  the  mission  schools,  and  the  chief  pur- 
pose of  these  is  to  teach  the  natives  to  read  the 
Word  understandingly,  so  that  they  may  "  be  able 
to  teach  others  also."  On  the  other  hand,  since 
schools  are  such  an  essential  part  of  the  work, 
there  are  not  wanting  those  who  confuse  the  edu- 
cation thus  obtained  with  religion  itself,  and  think 
all  who  become  able  to  read  are  Christians.  That 
is  a  consummation  devoutly  to  be  wished  by  every 
missionary,  but  it  is  no  more  true  in  Africa  than  it 
is  in  England  or  America.  The  fact  that  it  is  not 
true  in  those  civilized  countries  may  have  much  to 
do  with  the  fact  that  it  is  not  true  in  Africa. 

Since  the  day-school  at  Macha  never  assumed 
large  proportions,  and  there  were  many  children  all 
around  us,  especially  girls,  who  were  not  in  school, 


MACHA  MISSION  443 

it  had  been  the  aim  from  the  beginning  to  train 
teachers  who  might  be  placed  in  the  various  villages 
to  teach  and  give  the  Gospel  to  the  people  in  their 
homes,  and  thus  multiply  the  work  done  by  the  mis- 
sionaries manyfold.  A  number  of  schools  had  been 
started  in  this  way.  In  this  work  it  is  always  nec- 
essary to  use  great  care  in  the  selection  of  teachers, 
that  they  may  be  teachers  of  righteousness  as  well 
as  teachers  of  books.  A  boy  may  be  quite  apt  as  a 
scholar,  and  so  far  as  is  known  be  a  moral  person, 
but  if  he  has  not  yielded  himself  to  Christ  as  his 
Savior  and  has  not  a  love  for  souls  in  his  heart,  he 
often  does  more  harm  than  good  as  a  teacher.  In 
other  words,  he  must  be  a  missionary  as  well  as  a 
teacher,  and  lift  up  Christ  among  them.  We  often 
send  a  boy,  who  is  prepared,  back  to  his  own  village 
as  teacher,  if  we  have  such  a  one.  Mr.  Worthing- 
ton,  Secretary  for  Native  Affairs,  when  informed  of 
this  said,  "  I  greatly  approve  of  your  custom  of  send- 
ing natives  back  to  their  own  home  to  teach  their 
people.  I  think  it  will  obviate  many  difficulties  in 
the  way  of  native  teachers." 

The  out-schools  are  superintended  by  the  mis- 
sionaries, who  if  possible  visit  them  once  a  month 
and  advise  the  teachers  in  reference  to  the  work.  If 
the  schools  are  too  far  away  for  the  pupils  to  attend 
church  services  at  the  mission,  arrangements  are 
made  for  services  to  be  held  more  or  less  frequent- 
ly at  the  schools.  The  native  teachers  also  hold 
daily  worship  and  Scripture  reading  with  their 
schools,  and  all  others  who  desire  to  attend. 

In  order  that  my  readers  may  gain  some  informa- 
tion in  reference  to  the  out-schools  connected  with 


444  AFRICA 

Macha  Mission,  you  are  invited  to  accompany  me 
on  a  visit  to  them,  such  as  I  made  shortly  before  re- 
turning to  America.  Miss  E.  Engle  will  accom- 
pany me,  as  she  has  charge  of  them  during  my  ab- 
sence. Two  of  the  boys  are  also  going  as  leader 
and  driver.  While  we  are  absent  on  this  trip,  Apu- 
leni  will  have  charge  of  the  school  at  Macha.  He 
was  the  second  boy  to  come  to  the  mission,  nearly 
seven  years  before,  and  has  been  with  us  ever  since, 
except  for  nearly  eighteen  months,  when  he,  with 
other  boys,  went  away  to  Salisbury  to  work.  He  has 
made  good  in  school,  and  has  accepted  Christ  as  his 
Savior.  He  says  his  chief  desire  is  to  know  the  will 
of  God  and  do  it.  He  is  well  versed  in  the  Scriptures, 
is  a  good  teacher  and  helper  in  Sunday-school,  and 
reads,  not  only  his  own  Tonga  language,  but  also 
Zulu  quite  readily,  and  English,  and  acts  as  an  in- 
terpreter from  these  two  languages  into  his  own. 
He  is  also  prepared  in  the  other  branches  taught. 
As  he  is  our  assistant  teacher  all  the  time,  we  know 
the  school  will  not  suffer  in  his  hands. 

We  are  going  in  the  large  two-seated  spring  wag- 
on with  a  white  canvas  top,  sent  out  by  the  Board 
two  years  ago.  One  of  the  seats  is  removed,  and  in 
the  back  part  of  the  wagon  is  placed  a  box  contain- 
ing food,  dishes,  and  the  like  equipments  for  our 
meals.  There  is  also  put  in  a  large  five-gallon  can 
of  good  drinking  water,  two  folding  canvas  bed- 
steads, a  bundle  containing  bedding,  and  a  mosquito 
net,  and  underneath  the  wagon  in  a  framework  is  a 
tent  which  we  have  lately  acquired.  There  is  also  a 
small  bag  of  cornmeal,  a  tin  of  ground  peanuts,  some 
dried  greens  for  the  boys,  and  some  whole  pea- 


MACHA  MISSION  445 

nuts  for  all  of  us.  Where  the  'dashboard  was  orig- 
inally is  now  a  long  box  in  which  are  placed  kettles 
and  cooking  utensils.  And  we  do  not  forget  to  stow 
away  in  the  box  of  the  seat  a  quantity  of  bananas 
and  lemons,  of  which  the  mission  has  an  abundance ; 
also  some  fresh  vegetables.  A  small  canvas  bag,  in 
which  the  drinking  water  is  cooled,  hangs  on  the 
side  of  the  wagon.  Four  oxen  are  inspanned  and 
one  boy  takes  hold  of  the  strap  in  front  to  lead  the 
oxen, .  and  another,  with  a  long,  slender  pole,  to 
which  is  tied  a  long,  slender  leathern  lash,  drives. 
He  sometimes  sits  on  the  box  in  front  and  some- 
times runs  along  the  side. 

We  remember  the  times,  not  so  very  long  ago, 
when  we  were  not  so  comfortably  equipped  for  trav- 
eling as  we  are  at  present.  We  walked  many  weary 
miles  to  see  the  people,  and  thoroughly  enjoyed  it 
too,  even  though  the  hard  earth  at  times  was  our 
bed  and  the  open  canopy  of  heaven  our  tent,  and  na- 
tive food  in  part  supplied  our  needs.  Then  it  was 
not  possible  to  visit  as  many  places  in  a  day  as  now, 
and  frequently  when  we  arrived  we  were  too  tired 
to  do  justice  to  the  Word.  Then  also  we  failed  to 
reach  many  villages,  because  of  the  distance.  Now 
it  seems  almost  too  good  to  be  true  that  we  are  so 
well  supplied,  for  the  Lord  has  again  wonderfully 
verified  His  precious  promise,  "to  do  exceeding 
abundantly  above  all  that  we  ask  or  think."  Praise 
His  Holy  Name!  Yet  we  would  not,  if  we  could, 
do  away  with  those  early  days  and  the  blessings 
attending  them,  and  we  are  better  able  to  appreciate 
present  favors  by  contrast. 

Usually  we  endeavor  to  start  not  later  than  sun- 


446 


AFRICA 


MACHA   MISSION  447 

rise,  so  that  we  may  travel  in  the  cool  of  the  morn- 
ing; for  the  sun  becomes  quite  hot  in  the  middle  of 
the  day,  and  it  is  advisable  then  to  be  under  shelter. 
At  this  time,  November,  however,  the  morning  is 
cloudy,  so  that  we  may  have  rain;  but  the  clouds 
make  traveling  pleasant  and  we  start.  We  go  north 
and  a  little  east.  Where  the  roads  are  good  the 
oxen  trot  off  briskly ;  but  in  many  places  there  are 
deep  ruts,  caused  by  the  heavy  rains  of  previous 
years,  which  make  progress  slow.  In  some  places 
the  ruts  are  a  foot  or  two  in  depth,  and  it  is  neces- 
sary to  make  a  new  road  along  the  side,  for  there 
are  no  government-built  roads  in  the  country. 

The  grass  of  the  previous  year's  growth  was  burnt 
off  in  June  or  July;  and  ever  since,  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach,  nothing  could  be  seen  except  the  great 
stretch  of  undulating  reddish-brown  earth,  destitute 
of  everything,  save  here  and  there  little  patches  of 
dried  grass,  which  had  escaped  the  scorching  fires, 
and  scattered  trees,  almost  destitute  of  leaves.  There 
has  been  no  rain  for  six  or  seven  months ;  yet  spring 
is  approaching,  and  already  in  the  rich  valleys  may 
be  seen  tender  blades  of  grass  springing  up.  On  the 
bare  brown  hills  here  and  there  are  flowers  of  vari- 
ous kinds,  which  gladden  the  eye  and  relieve  the 
monotony  of  the  scene.  Where  the  moisture  comes 
from  at  this  season  of  the  year  to  produce  such  deli- 
cate blossoms  is  a  cause  of  conjecture.  Then  too, 
already  many  of  the  trees  and  shrubs  are  putting 
forth  their  tender,  beautiful  green  leaves,  some  of 
which  look  as  delicate  and  shining  as  wax ;  and  oc- 
casionally one  sees  a  tree  or  shrub  with  white,  yel- 
low, or  red  blossoms  preparatory  to  putting  forth 


448  AFRICA 

leaves.  All  these  changes  we  note  with  pleasure  as 
we  ride  along  in  the  cool,  bracing  air  of  the  early 
morning. 

At  one  place  is  to  be  seen  Chikuni  stump,  which 
seems  almost  like  a  stone,  and  has  been  a  landmark 
within  the  memory  of  the  oldest  inhabitant.  The 
majority  of  trees  which  are  to  be  seen  on  this  road 
are  hardwood,  but  very  crooked  and  scrubby  look- 
ing, no  doubt  owing  to  the  yearly  fierce  onslaught 
of  fire  and  also  the  nature  of  the  soil.  Along  the 
road  is  one  solitary  mahogany ;  a  large,  spreading 
tree  this  is,  but  not  a  very  good  sample  of  its  kind. 
There  is  also  a  large  tree  known  as  the  sausage  tree; 
its  immense  bean  pods,  one  to  two  feet  in  length  and 
a  foot  and  over  in  circumference,  reminding  one  of 
a  great  piece  of  sausage.  Numerous  acacia  are  to 
be  seen,  and  as  we  approach  the  river,  five  miles 
from  home,  we  see  six  large,  fine-looking  fig  trees, 
their  rich,  dark-green  foliage  furnishing  beautiful 
shade.  Although  this  is  the  Myeki  River,  there  is 
no  water  where  we  cross,  yet  the  deep,  bridgeless 
ravine  makes  crossing  for  heavily-laden  wagons  dif- 
ficult at  all  seasons,  and  almost  impassable  during 
the  rainy  seasons.  Here  is  a  large  village,  but  we 
proceed  two  miles  further  and  come  to  Mianda 
School,  where  Charlie  Sichamba  teaches. 

This  is  not  a  large  village,  but  it  is  the  home  of  a 
number  of  some  of  our  best  boys ;  those  who  have 
been  of  greatest  assistance  in  teaching  and  in  in- 
dustrial work.  The  village  has  been  lately  moved, 
and  huts  are  not  yet  all  completed,  nor  is  the  school- 
house  finished.  We  drive  near  and  are  met  by  a 
number  of  the  pupils,  for  we  are  always  certain  of  a 


MACHA   MISSION  449 

welcome  at  this  place.  The  rain,  which  has  been 
threatening,  begins  to  come  down,  and  one  of  the 
new  huts  is  given  to  us.  Wood  is  brought  and  a 
fire  is  kindled  in  the  center,  that  we  may  have 
breakfast.  A  mat  is  placed  on  the  nicely-swept 
floor,  and  on  this  the  tablecloth  is  spread  and  the 
breakfast  placed  after  it  is  cooked.  This  consists  of 
corn  porridge,  with  milk,  bread,  butter,  eggs,  fruit, 
and  coffee  if  we  desire  it.  Muguwe  sends  us  milk, 
for  he  always  sees  that  we  are  furnished  with  fresh 
milk  when  we  come  here.  The  boys  are  given  an- 
other hut  in  which  to  cook  their  food.  The  meal 
being  over,  we  hand  the  dishes  to  one  of  the  boys  to 
be  washed,  while  we  turn  our  attention  to  the  school 
and  work  for  which  we  came. 

By  this  time  the  rain  is  beginning  to  abate,  and 
the  pupils,  about  twenty  in  number,  assemble  in 
another  hut  for  school.  Today  there  are  not  quite 
as  many  as  usual,  because  there  is  a  wedding  in 
progress.  Here  is  Muguwe,  a  tall,  odd-looking  na- 
tive, over  thirty  years  of  age,  and  a  Christian,  and 
so  far  as  we  can  learn  he  is  consistent  in  his  life. 
Learning  is  difficult  for  him,  but  he  is  making  prog- 
ress and  is  quite  persevering.  His  wife  for  a  long 
time  was  opposed  to  his  serving  the  Lord,  but  she 
is  changing,  and  we  trust  that  she  too  may  accept 
Christ  as  her  Savior.  The  stepdaughter  is  also  in 
school  and  is  making  progress  in  Divine  life.  There 
are  several  other  women  and  some  girls  and  boys. 
Some  of  them  seem  very  slow  in  accepting  Christ, 
but  there  has  manifestly  been  a  change  in  the  lives 
of  some,  and  a  number  of  the  old  women  are  be- 
lievers. During  the  last  year  of  drought,  when  the 


450  AFRICA 

people  of  nearly  every  village  were  so  zealous  in 
their  heathen  worship  for  rain,  this  was  one  of  the 
two  who  stood  true.  After  school  is  over,  the  older 
ones  are  summoned  to  join  with  us  in  worship,  and 
we  take  the  occasion  once  more  to  give  them  a 
Gospel  message,  to  which  they  listen  attentively. 
Here  are  Tom's  mother,  Jim's  mother,  and  Chikaile's 
mother,  all  of  whom  seem  to  believe  as  far  as  they 
have  grasped  the  Truth. 

"We  are  especially  grieved  today,  however,  be- 
cause of  the  wedding  which  is  progressing,  for  we 
knew  nothing  about  it  until  we  were  on  the  journey. 
The  bride  is  a  Christian  girl  and  has  had  a  good 
experience,  although  she  is  not  yet  baptized.  She  is 
only  about  fifteen  years  old,  or  perhaps  a  little  older, 
and  has  been  given  to  an  unsaved  boy,  who,  how- 
ever, has  no  other  wife.  We  inquired  of  one  of  the 
boys  if  she  wished  to  marry  him.  He  looked  at  us 
in  sort  of  a  pitying  manner,  as  if  to  say,  "  You 
should  know  better  than  to  ask  such  a  question," 
and  replied,  "  They  did  not  ask  her."  After  the 
service  we  go  up  to  the  hut  of  the  bride,  and  find 
her  not  feigning  to  cry,  as  some  of  the  brides  do,  but 
in  reality  weeping  most  bitterly.  At  the  sight  of  us 
her  sobs  break  forth  afresh.  We  try  to  comfort  her, 
but  what  can  or  what  dare  we  say?  We  speak  to 
the  mother,  who  also  has  confessed  Christ,  but  she 
is  the  first  wife  in  a  line  of  five.  She  frankly  ac- 
knowledges that  she  preferred  to  give  her  daughter 
to  a  Christian,  but  was  overruled.  The  brothers  too, 
who  are  Christians,  could  do  nothing,  the  older  rel- 
atives having  arranged  the  affair.  Her  father  is 
chief  of  the  village  and  an  influential  man.  He  has 


MACHA   MISSION  451 

always  been  a  friend  of  the  mission,  but  he  feels 
that  he  can  manage  his  own  affairs  best,  and  his 
children  are  taught  implicit  obedience.  We  .know 
that  remonstrance  is  useless,  and  from  his  conver- 
sation it  is  evident  that  he  thinks  he  has  provided 
wisely  for  his  child,  because  the  groom  is  son  of  the 
chief  at  Kabanzi,  where  one  of  our  schools  is  lo- 
cated, and  the  young  fellow  had  even  attended 
school  for  a  few  days.  The  affair  might  be  more 
serious,  and  we  hope  and  pray  that  in  time  both  may 
be  Christians. 

The  next  school  is  four  miles  farther  on  this  road, 
at  Impongo,  and  the  teacher  there  is  Singuzu,  whose 
home  is  at  Mianda.  He  is  not  so  far  advanced  in 
learning,  so  he  recites  to  Charlie.  He  is,  however, 
a  conscientious  and  Spirit-filled  Christian.  He  .ac- 
companies us  to  his  place  of  teaching.  This  is  a 
new  school,  has  been  in  session  only  about  three 
months,  and  is  held  out  in  the  open  air  in  the  shade 
of  a  tree ;  but  they  are  gathering  poles  to  build  a 
hut.  The  people  had  asked  several  times  for  a  school, 
and  we  finally  concluded  to  give  them  one.  The 
teacher  is  doing  his  work  faithfully,  and  progress  is 
being  made  by  the  pupils  in  learning  to  read ;  but 
there  are  some  things  in  connection  with  this  school 
which  are  making  the  work  very  unsatisfactory, 
and  both  the  teacher  and  ourselves  think  best  to 
discontinue  it.  After  the  recitations  are  finished  a 
service  is  held  with  them  and  they  seem  interested. 
When  the  late  dinner  is  over  it  is  decided  to  go 
about  six  miles  west,  to  Kabanzi,  the  next  school. 

By  this  time  it  is  somewhat  late  in  the  day,  but  it 
is  hoped  that  our  destination  may  be  reached  before 


452  AFRICA 

dark.  Singuzu,  who  is  a  better  driver  than  the  one 
accompanying  us,  is  asked  to  go  along  and  drive. 
This  .road  is  very  little  traveled  and  a  white  man 
might  not  be  able  to  find  it ;  but  the  natives  accus- 
tomed to  these  trackless  wilds  do  not  soon  become 
lost.  Nearly  the  entire  distance  is  through  the 
brush,  consisting  of  both  large  trees  and  short  un- 
derbrush, so  that  the  journey  is  more  or  less  im- 
peded. We  travel  along  at  a  fair  speed  for  oxen,  as 
the  driver  is  accustomed  to  dodging  trees  and 
shrubs ;  but  darkness  overtakes  us  before  the  village 
is  reached.  Progress  is  now  slow,  since  the  veldt 
from  this  to  the  village  is  full  of  the  stumps  of  trees 
cut  off,  native  fashion,  two  or  three  feet  above 
ground,  and  we  are  fearful  of  running  into  these  and 
breaking  the  wagon.  Finally  the  wagon  does  be- 
come fast  and  the  oxen  must  be  unhitched  until  it  is 
extricated.  We  again  enter  the  wagon  and  move 
on.  The  welcome  sight  of  the  village  fires  shining 
out  amid  the  darkness  indicates  that  the  end  of  the 
journey  is  near  at  hand.  As  we  approach,  a  pack 
of  dogs  greet  us  with  their  loud  barking,  and  light 
after  light  shines  out  through  the  open  doors  of  the 
huts,  or  from  the  courtyard  where  the  men,  in  the 
shelter  of  a  semicircle  of  reeds,  sit  and  palaver. 
There  is  no  more  pleasing  sight  to  travelers  through 
African  wilds  than  the  bright  and  cheerful  blaze  of 
the  indispensable  campfire,  which  answers  for  light 
and  heat,  for  preparing  the  evening  meal  and  ward- 
ing off  the  wild  animals. 

As  we  reach  the  village,  a  number  of  natives 
emerge  from  their  huts  in  order  to  ascertain  who 
these  intruders  are,  coming  along  the  back  of  the 


MACHA   MISSION  453 

village.  On  seeing  their  missionaries  they  gladly  of- 
fer their  services  to  cqnduct  the  wagon  through  the 
trees  and  stumps  to  the  schoolhouse  and  teacher's 
hut.  Sister  Engle  and  I  conclude  not  to  have  the 
tent  pitched  for  the  night,  but  to  have  our  beds 
placed  in  the  large,  roomy  schoolhouse,  which 
boasts  of  a  good  plank  door.  We  have  had  a  busy 
day,  for  we  have  visited  two  schools,  held  two  serv- 
ices, prepared  our  food,  and  traveled  seventeen 
miles,  so  we  are  soon  resting  on  our  comfortable 
stretchers. 

In  the  morning  breakfast  is  prepared  early,  for 
the  school  is  to  begin  earlier  than  usual  so  that  we 
may  continue  our  journey.  We,  however,  take  time 
to  go  over  to  the  village  and  have  a  chat  with  some 
of  the  older  people.  This  is  Kabanzi  village,  and  it 
has  our  oldest  and  best  school.  Before  the  opening 
of  school  services  were  held  here  frequently,  and 
some  were  interested,  but  no  one  gave  indications 
of  wanting  to  follow  the  Lord  until  after  school 
opened.  Several  boys  from  this  place  were  con- 
verted while  attending  school  at  Macha.  The  teach- 
er is  Jamu,  a  careful,  painstaking  and  faithful 
Christian.  He  is  greatly  interested  in  the  spiritual 
as  well  as  the  intellectual  advancement  of  his  pu- 
pils. He  carefully  reads  and  explains  the  Word  to 
them  day  by  day,  and  he  is  a  good  evangelist.  While 
in  school  at  Macha  he  was  always  one  of  our  best 
workmen  in  laying  brick,  sawing  and  thatching. 
There  are  generally  about  fifty  pupils  enrolled  in 
this  school  and  about  thirty-five  in  daily  attendance. 
Twelve  have  been  baptized  and  nearly  all  the  rest 
are  in  the  Inquirers'  Class. 


454  AFRICA 

We  enter  the  schoolroom  and  the  pupils  march 
around  the  building,  then  enter  and  take  their  places 
on  the  logs  extending  across  the  room.  All  kneel 
and  repeat  the  Lord's  prayer,  and  then  teaching  be- 
gins. A  few  are  reading  the  charts,  some  are  in  the 
first  book,  a  number  in  the  "  Bible  Stories,"  while  a 
few  are  reading  the  Gospels  of  St.  Mark  and  St. 
Matthew.  A  number  of  pupils  are  married  men  and 
women.  The  women  bring  their  babies,  and  yet 
with  the  interruption  caused  by  these,  they  have 
learned  to  read  well, and  are  in  the  "  Bible  Stories." 
They  exhibit  remarkable  perseverance,  for  they  not 
only  attend  school,  but  dig  in  their  gardens,  carry 
wood  and  water,  grind  their  meal,  and  prepare  their 
food.  On  Sunday  they  walk  nine  miles  to  Macha  to 
church,  for  they,  together  with  their  husbands,  are 
Christians,  or  seeking  to  be  such.  The  teacher  says 
that  they  started  to  school  first ;  then  their  husbands 
followed.  The  husbands  also  work  in  the  gardens, 
build  huts,  hunt  game  for  food,  and  part  of  the  time 
work  for  the  white  man  in  order  to  obtain  money 
for  taxes  and  clothes.  They  have  also  lately  been 
buying  cloth  to  make  dresses  for  their  wives,  and 
one  day  I  came  upon  one  of  the  men  carefully  wash- 
ing his  wife's  dress.  The  Gospel  is  making  them 
better  husbands  and  more  careful  and  considerate 
of  their  wives.  The  heathen  worship,  with  its  at- 
tendant evils,  together  with  vice,  beer,  tobacco,  and 
kindred  habits,  is  being  banished  from  these  few 
homes  at  least.  When  other  villages  were  worship- 
ing their  rainmakers,  these  too  were  daily  worship- 
ing, but  it  was  the  Lord  of  lords  Whom  they  wor- 
shiped. When  the  older  ones  desired  to  resort  to 


MACHA  MISSION  455 

their  heathen  worship,  the  Christians  said,  "  No ;  if 
you  do  we  shall  build  a  kraal  of  our  own."  This 
means  that  there  are  many  in  the  village  who  are 
not  Christians,  and  some  of  them  stoutly  oppose  the 
school ;  but  the  chief  is  favorable,  as  some  of  his 
children  are  Christians.  There  are  also  several  old 
women  in  addition  to  the  pupils  who  are  breaking 
away  from  their  old  worship  and  accepting  Christ. 
There  is  one  old  woman  here  who  has  come  out  very 
bright  in  her  Christian  experience.  She  meets  with 
much  opposition,  but  she  does  not  waver. 

After  we  have  remained  one  session  of  school, 
some  of  the  older  people  are  called  and  we  have  a 
service  for  very  interested  listeners.  The  boys  then 
inspan  the  oxen  and  we  proceed  west  to  Kabwe 
School,  about  five  or  six  miles  distant.  These  are 
the  people  with  whom  we  held  a  week's  service  over 
a  year  before.  At  this  place  our  tent  is  pitched  and 
we  prepare  to  spend  the  night.  This  is  a  Baila  vil- 
lage, and  at  first  Sikaluwa  had  charge  of  the  school, 
as  he  was  brought  up  among  that  tribe  and  is  a  good 
Christian  boy.  He  did  good  work  for  nearly  a  year, 
but  he  did  not  wish  to  continue.  We  were  in  doubt 
as  to  whom  we  should  send  to  teach  them ;  and 
after  praying  over  the  matter  we  concluded  to  con- 
sult the  Christians  in  Members'  Meeting,  and  in- 
quire if  anyone  felt  led  of  the  Lord  to  take  up  the 
work  there.  At  the  close  of  the  meeting  we  were 
surprised  to  have  Chikaile  come  and  say  that  he  was 
willing  to  undertake  the  work,  the  Lord  helping. 
He  had  been  at  the  mission  for  some  years  and  was 
quite  capable  of  teaching.  He  is  also  one  of  the 
most  cheerful  and  willing  workers,  but  he  is  so 


456  AFRICA 

young,  perhaps  only  seventeen  years  of  age.  Be- 
cause he  is  such  an  earnest  and  conscientious  Chris- 
tian, however,  he  was  given  the  privilege,  and  has 
succeeded  beyond  our  highest  expectations.  The 
kraal  had  just  been  moved  and  divided,  so  that  he 
was  obliged  to  build  a  new  hut  for  himself.  This 
he  speedily  did,  and  then  began  a  schoolhouse  which 


with  a  little  assistance  from  the  villagers,  was  soon 
under  roof.  There  is  nothing  lazy  about  the  boy, 
and  the  school,  as  well  as  the  work  of  the  Lord,  is 
progressing  in  his  hands.  He  soon  learned  to  know 
the  people  and  the  kind  of  lives  they  are  leading, 
and  is  fearless  in  exposing  sin,  although  he  is  al- 
ways mild  and  humble  in  his  demeanor.  With  him, 
as  well  as  with  other  teachers  who  do  not  teach  in 


MACHA  MISSION  457 

their  homes,  a  boy  is  sent,  so  that  he  need  not  be 
alone. 

In  this  school  we  find  twenty-four  pupils  in  at- 
tendance, among  them  two  elderly  women.  One  of 
these,  the  mother  of  another  Christian  woman,  has 
made  a  good  confession.  She  entered  school  and  we 
smiled  somewhat  incredulously,  thinking  that  she 
was  too  old  to  learn ;  but  our  next  visit  to  the  school 
revealed  the  fact  that  she  was  making  decided  prog- 
ress, and  it  seemed  evident  that  she  would  soon  be 
able  to  read  the  Gospel.  After  school  was  over, 
services  were  held  and  the  people  invited  back  for 
night  meeting.  We  then  prepared  our  food.  Dur- 
ing these  visits  to  the  villages  the  people  sometimes 
bring  a  present  of  a  chicken,  a  dish  of  peanuts,  some 
milk,  or  whatever  they  think  we  might  relish.  Oc- 
casionally, on  a  hot  day,  it  is  a  cup  of  ibwantu.  This 
is  a  gruel  made  of  the  meal  of  native  grain  into 
which  has  been  placed  crushed  root  with  an  acid 
flavor.  It  is  usually  made  in  the  evening  and  con- 
sumed the  next  day.  It  is  not  alcoholic,  and  has  a 
very  cooling  and  refreshing  taste.  It  will  be  brought 
in  a  large  cup,  and  as  is  their  custom,  the  donor 
usually  takes  a  sip  first  to  show  there  is  no  poison 
in  it. 

When  this  village  was  moved  and  divided  into 
three  parts,  we  about  gave  up  the  thought  of  open- 
ing school  again,  but  the  chief  was  not  satisfied,  and 
promised  that  if  school  was  reopened  he  would  see 
that  the  children  came  together  to  learn;  so  we 
agreed  to  send  a  teacher.  Six  very  nice  young  girls 
came  from  Kabwe  to  stay  at  Macha  and  attend 


458  AFRICA 

school;  but  others  entered  to  fill  up  the  ranks  and 
the  work  continues. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  start  on  our  home- 
ward way.  The  road  takes  us  back  past  Kabanzi, 
and  there  we  turn  south  toward  Macha.  On  the 
way  we  come  to  a  place  which  at  first  sight  might 
be  taken  for  an  old  deserted  native  village ;  but  a 
closer  inspection  reveals  the  fact  that  the  huts  were 
never  finished.  Here  is  the  framework  of  twelve 
large,  nice-looking  huts.  Some  have  just  been  right- 
ly started ;  of  some  the  walls  are  finished,  and  on 
others  the  builders  had  begun  to  put  on  the  roof. 
Poles  are  scattered  all  around,  and  some  poles  are 
at  a  distance  from  the  huts,  but  near  the  road,  and 
look  as  if  those  who  were  carrying  them  had 
dropped  them  hastily.  The  whole  has  the  appear- 
ance as  if  a  number  of  people  were  busily  engaged 
in  building  a  village  and  were  surprised  by  an  enemy 
in  the  midst  of  their  labors  and  slain,  their  work 
unfinished.  What  does  it  mean?  This  question  we 
asked  ourselves  on  first  seeing  it.  The  answer  was 
this :  They  were  indeed  surprised  by  an  enemy, 
but  that  enemy  was  death.  The  headman  sickened 
and  died ;  his  son  followed.  Concluding  that  the 
place  was  bewitched,  the  rest  at  once  abandoned  it 
and  went  elsewhere,  leaving  all  those  fine,  straight 
poles  to  rot. 

On  the  journey  homeward  we  again  come  to  My- 
eki  River,  for  this  is  a  very  winding  stream,  and  this 
crossing  is  several  miles  farther  west.  At  this  place 
there  is  another  school.  We  stop  near  the  village, 
where  Mafuta  the  teacher  lives,  and  he,  with  some 
of  the  rest,  comes  out  to  meet  us.  We  have  driven 


MACHA  MISSION  459 

about  ten  miles  this  morning  and  now  hastily  pre- 
pare breakfast  and  eat.  Some  tall,  beautiful  bottle 
palms  grow  in  this  vicinity,  and  while  we  are  eating, 
the  teacher  brings  us  the  fruit  of  one,  a  part  of  which 
is  eaten  with  relish.  We  then  start  off  on  foot  for 
the  school,  which  is  about  two  miles  distant,  near 
another  village.  We  leave  the  lead  boy  to  herd  the 
oxen,  while  the  little  herdboys  of  this  village  drive 
their  cattle  ahead,  so  that  they  may  learn  in  school 
and  at  the  same  time. watch  the  cattle. 

As  we  walk  along  the  path,  through  this  some- 
what dense  forest,  let  me  tell  you  something  of  this 
teacher,  Mafuta.  He  is  older  than  the  most  of  our 
boys  and  was  already  grown  when  we  reached  Ma- 
cha,  seven  years  ago.  He  at  that  time  worked  for  us 
a  few  months.  For  over  three  years,  however,  he 
showed  no  inclination  to  want  to  learn  or  be  a  Chris- 
tian, and  seldom  came  to  Church.  He  was  just  like 
the  other  natives  in  the  village  and  indulged  in 
their  sinful  and  lazy  ways.  Finally  he  informed  one 
of  the  boys  that  he  was  coming  to  school  until  he 
had  sufficient  money  to  take  a  wife.  We  were  quite 
skeptical  when  we  heard  it;  for  we  did  not  expect 
that  he  would  remain  long,  and  then  too  school  was 
not  a  money-making  place.  He  came  and  applied 
himself  to  school  work.  He  was  slow  and  dull,  but 
he  was  diligent  and  made  progress. 

He  entered  the  Inquirers'  Class  and  the  Lord 
found  a  way  into  his  heart.  One  day  in  the  class, 
when  a  number  came  forward  for  special  prayer,  he 
became  in  earnest  and  found  what  he  sought — par- 
don for  his  dark  past,  and  peace  in  his  soul.  As  he 
took  his  seat  his  face  wore  a  look  of  new-found  joy, 


460  AFRICA 

and  he  arose  and  testified  as  to  what  the  Lord  had 
done  for  him.  In  work  also  he  was  faithful,  and  he 
soon  learned  to  handle  the  oxen  in  plowing  and  in 
the  wagon,  and  thus  he  received  higher  wages.  By 
close  economy  he  gradually  was  able  to  get  a  little 
money  ahead.  In  time  he  was  baptized.  He  gained 
one  of  the  nicest  girls  in  the  neighborhood  as  his 
wife,  is  married  by  Christian  marriage,  and  is  now 
teaching  this  school.  He  is  not  as  quick  at  learning 
as  some,  but  he  is  faithful  and  painstaking  and  is  a 
living  Christian  among  them.  When  we  look  at 
him  and  think  how  little  faith  we  had  in  the  early 
days,  we  are  reminded  of  the  words,  "  The  Lord 
seeth  not  as  man  seeth ;  for  man  looketh  on  the  out- 
ward appearance,  but  God  looketh  on  the  heart." 

We  visit  the  school  and  find  twenty-four  scholars 
assembled,  the  teacher's  wife  among  the  number. 
It  is  a  new  school,  but  the  pupils  are  making  ad- 
vancement. After  services  we  retrace  our  steps  to 
the  waiting  wagon,  and  then  return  to  the  mission, 
which  is  only  about  four  and  one-half  miles  distant. 
We  have  spent  three  days  out,  have  visited  five 
schools  and  have  traveled  thirty-six  miles  in  some- 
what of  a  circle.  We  have  enjoyed  the  trip  and  the 
change  from  the  routine  of  the  mission  station,  but 
a  person  is  glad  to  reach  home,  after  a  few  days 
spent  on  the  veldt. 

Again  we  desire  to  visit  Chilumbwe  School,  which 
is  about  seven  miles  northeast.  Here  the  natives 
were  asking  for  some  time  for  a  school.  We  had 
come  to  the  conclusion,  however,  that  no  more 
schools  would  be  opened  until  the  people  of  the  vil- 
lage erect  some  sort  of  a  schoolhouse.  They  are 


MACHA  MISSION  461 

always  ready  to  promise  that  they  will  build,  but  if 
a  teacher  is  provided  before  the  house  is  built  they 
generally  are  slow  in  carrying  out  their  promise. 
Then  too  it  is  not  best  to  make  the  work  too  easy 
for  them.  They  appreciate  most  that  which  has 
cost  them  something.  The  work  among  them  is 
new,  and  as  the  schools  are  especially  for  children, 
and  money  is  always  scarce,  we  dare  not  expect  too 
much  at  present.  If  they  are  eager  for  a  teacher 
they  can  at  least  build  a  schoolhut,  feed  their  teach- 
er, buy  their  own  books,  and  these  they  are  expected 
to  do.  Even  the  poorest  buy  their  books,  and  if  they 
cannot  bring  money  they  often  bring  a  chicken  or 
grain  in  pay.  The  people  at  Chilumbwe  finally  man- 
aged to  build  their  hut  and  school  began  a  month 
ago. 

We  again  take  the  wagon  and  go  north  as  before, 
but  soon  turn  off  toward  the  east.  We  pass  through 
Chikuni,  where  formerly  there  was  a  large  village, 
and  over  under  that  large,  spreading  fig  tree  Sikalu- 
wa  taught  school.  But  sickness  entered  the  village ; 
the  chief's  wife  died,  a  child  followed,  and  then  a 
young  man,  all  in  the  same  village.  All  these  died 
in  a  similar  manner  which,  from  the  description  giv- 
en afterwards,  must  have  been  spinal  meningitis. 
They  thought  it  was  witchcraft  and  became  afraid 
of  one  another.  So  they  separated,  some  going  one 
way,  some  the  other.  We  pass  several  kraals  on  the 
way  and  finally  reach  Chilumbwe. 

The  chief  of  this  village  is  rich  in  cattle  and  is  an 
unusually  intelligent  and  well-bred  native.  Jim  is 
the  teacher.  Yes,  he  is  that  short,  well-dressed  na- 
tive with  the  colored  glasses  on.  He  is  the  one  who 


462  AFRICA 

lost  his  eye  and  is  very  sensitive  on  account  of  the 
defect;  but  he  is  a  splendid  fellow,  faithful,  humble, 
and  an  excellent  workman.  He  is  moreover  a  sin- 
cere Christian,  anxious  to  know  and  do  the  will  of 
his  Heavenly  Father. 

As  the  wagon  approaches  the  schoolhouse  we  are 
greeted  by  the  chief  and  a  number  of  the  pupils,  for 
they  are  expecting  the  visit.  It  is  decided  to  have 
services  first  so  that  the  older  ones  need  not  remain. 
The  pupils,  together  with  some  men  and  women 
from  the  village,  gather  around  a  large  shade  tree, 
the  chief  taking  a  prominent  position.  All  the  pu- 
pils join  lustily  in  the  singing,  seemingly  anxious  to 
impress  upon  their  missionaries  that  they  are  pro- 
gressing in  that  at  least.  A  service  is  then  held, 
after  which  the  pupils  gather  in  the  little  school- 
house  for  school.  There  are  about  fifty  pupils  al- 
ready enrolled  in  this  school,  some  being  from  neigh- 
boring kraals,  and  there  are  over  thirty  in  attend- 
ance today.  They  are  starting  out  well,  but  how 
many  will  continue  remains  to  be  seen.  The  pupils 
are  all  young  men  and  boys,  and  the  teacher  in- 
forms us  that  they  will  not  allow  the  women  and 
girls  to  attend  school.  We  cannot  force  them  to  let 
the  girls  come,  nor  is  it  wise  to  attempt  it,  so  we 
just  look  to  the  Lord  and  wait  until  He  can  find  a 
way  into  their  hearts.  At  all  the  other  out-schools 
the  girls  generally  outnumber  the  boys.  This  being 
a  new  school,  nearly  all  read  on  the  charts ;  only  two 
or  three  have  passed  that  stage,  but  we  have  two 
beginning  books  along  and  they  are  bought.  There 
are  no  Christians  at  this  place,  and  the  one  that 
seems  most  interested  in  the  Gospel  is  the  chief's 


MACHA  MISSION  463 

son.  He  was  badly  mauled  by  a  leopard  a  few 
months  ago,  and  the  -chief  brought  him  to  the  mis- 
sion to  be  treated.  Sister  Engle  very  successfully 
treated  his  wounds;  and  while  he  was  with  us  he 
came  under  the  influence  of  the  Gospel,  and  we  be- 
lieve he  is  reaching  out  for  more  knowledge  of  his 
Savior. 

All  the  schools  have  now  been  visited.  There  is 
a  call  for  a  school  southwest  about  six  miles,  and 
there  is  a  teacher  for  it;  but  the  people  have  not  yet 
erected  a  schoolhouse.  The  villages  near  have  asked 
for  schools  and  have  had  them ;  but  many  have  op- 
posed the  Gospel  and  the  work  has  not  proved  a 
success  among  them.  There  are  a  few  in  each  vil- 
lage who  are  Christians,  and  some  of  them  are  with 
us  and  others  coming  to  day-school.  We  are  not 
yet  discouraged  with  these  at  our  doors  who  have 
been  hardening  their  hearts  against  the  truth.  God 
has  yet  among  them  some  who  will  come  out  strong 
for  Him,  for  we  know  that  His  Spirit  is  striving  with 
them  and  with  some  it  will  not  strive  in  vain.  It  can 
be  seen  that  a  knowledge  of  God  is  slowly  spreading 
over  the  country  and  real  miracles  are  being  per- 
formed in  the  hearts  of  some  of  these  erstwhile 
heathen ;  miracles  greater  than  the  raising  of  Laza- 
rus from  the  dead.  Souls  are  being  raised  to  walk  in 
newness  of  life  and  are  living  witnesses  to  those 
around  them  of  Christ's  power  to  save  to  the  utter- 
most. God's  love  has  bridged  the  immense  chasm 
in  the  lives  of  some  between  the  densest,  darkest 
paganism  and  the  glorious  Light  of  the  children  of 
men.  But  we  must  be  patient  with  the  slow  ones, 
for  it  is  not  always  those  who  are  the 'most  ready 


464  AFRICA 

to  accept  who  are  the  most  stable.  Some  delay 
long  years  and  finally  come  out  strong  and  vigorous 
for  Christ.  Where  only  rude,  coarse  heathen  songs 
were  heard,  anthems  of  praise  to  God  now  arise,  and 
daily  prayer  ascends. 

It  may  be  seen  that  the  natives  are  governed  by 
a  number  of  petty  chiefs,  and  that  they  frequently 
change  the  location  of  their  villages.  This  makes 
the  work  among  the  out-schools  more  difficult;  but 
others  are  calling  for  schools,  and  already  the  past 
year  over  200  children  were  enrolled  in  the  out- 
schools,  in  addition  to  those  at  Macha ;  and  this 
where  only  a  few  years  ago  the  names  school  and 
God  were  not  known.  We  are  touching  only  a 
small  spot  thus  far  and  see  a  great  wall  of  darkness 
just  beyond ;  a  darkness  which  we  occasionally  seek 
to  penetrate.  Other  bodies  of  missionaries  also  are 
laboring  in  some  sections  of  the  country,  but  there 
is  much  land  ahead  yet  to  be  possessed,  and  many 
natives  still  in  darkness  who  can  say,  "  No  man  car- 
eth  for  my  soul." 

The  salvation  of  Africa  rests  largely  upon  the  na- 
tive converts,  and  we  rejoice  for  the  manner  in 
which  some  are  coming  to  the  help  of  the  Lord's 
cause,  and  we  trust  they  may  ever  have  the  prayers 
of  all  who  are  interested  in  the  evangelization  of 
this  vast  continent.  Natives,  however,  cannot  do 
the  work  alone.  There  always  is  need  of  white 
workers  to  oversee  and  direct  the  work,  or  it  will 
not  advance  satisfactorily.  We  believe  the  Lord  de- 
sires us  to  ask  largely  these  latter  days,  but  in  this 
instance  we  shall  be  modest  in  our  request,  and  that 
is,  that  the  way  be  open  to  start  at  least  one  more 


MACHA  MISSION  465 

station  of  white  workers  in  Northern  Rhodesia.  We 
believe  the  Lord  is  speaking  to  some  hearts  to  open 
such  a  work.  Is  He  not  speaking  to  others  to  give 
of  their  prayers  and  money  for  the  work?  Many  of 
God's  children  could  pay  $200  or  $300  a  year  toward 
the  support  of  a  white  worker,  and  others  $40  to  $50 
for  a  native  evangelist,  and  not  need  to  deny  them- 
selves any  of  the  comforts  of  life  in  the  doing  of  it. 
May  God  help  us  to  see  and  appreciate  our  privileges 
in  Christ  Jesus. 


CHAPTER    FIFTEEN 
Conclusion 

I  desire  to  protest  against  the  unholy  thirst  for  statis- 
tics; it  is  perfectly  impossible  to  put  into  statistics  the  re- 
sults of  mission  work. — Lord  Selborne,  Late  High  Com- 
missioner for  South  Africa. 

IN  the  preceding  pages  it  has  been  the  aim  to 
present  some  of  the  work  done,  as  it  has  been 
our  privilege  to  see  it.  Much  more  might  be 
written  about  the  progress  of  the  work  at  Matopo, 
Mapani,  and  Mtyabezi  Stations,  for  they  have  a 
number  of  excellent  out-stations,  manned  by  expe- 
rienced and  Spirit-filled  natives,  and  are  doing  en- 
couraging work ;  but  that  would  be  beyond  the 
scope  of  this  little  volume.  We  must  leave  that  for 
the  able  and  efficient  missionaries  at  those  places 
and  content  ourselves  with  a  summary  of  the  work. 
But  first  we  desire  to  refer  to  the  work  at  Johan- 
nesburg, for  during  the  last  few  years  some  of  our 
missionaries  there  have  been  laboring  in  connection 
with  our  Mission  Board.  Over  four  years  ago  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Isaac  Lehman  severed  their  connection 
with  the  other  missionary  bodies  and  began  build- 
ing up  a  separate  work,  and  a  little  later  began  la- 
boring under  the  auspices  of  the  Church.  They  be- 
gan the  new  work  under  difficulties,  but  they  are 
persevering  and  hard  workers,  both  in  temporal  and 
spiritual  lines,  and  the  work  shows  excellent  re- 
466 


MACHA  MISSION  467 

suits  from  their  consecrated  labors.  Brother  Leh- 
man has  worked  hard  to  put  up  suitable  buildings, 
and  their  station  is  now  equipped  with  a  good  house 
and  church.  As  I  have  not  had  the  privilege  of  vis- 
iting that  place  since  the  opening  of  their  new  work, 
they  were  asked  to  give  a  statement  of  what  is  being 
done.  This  they  did  under  date  of  August,  1914,  as 
follows: 

Our  main  or  central  station  is  at  the  City  Deep  Mine, 
where  we  reside.  The  Compound  only  a  short  distance 
from  the  mission  at  this  place  has  over  4,000  native  labor- 
ers in  it  at  one  time.  This  is  a  very  promising  mine,  and 
has  just  lately  been  opened,  and  has  an  apparently  long 
life  before  it  under  normal  conditions.  It  will  in  time 
employ  many  more  men  as  it  keeps  enlarging.  We  have 
open  doors  to  this  vast  multitude  of  men  coming  from 
all  parts  of  South  Africa.  There  are  many  tribes  repre- 
sented and  we  can  preach  the  Gospel  to  them;  and  we 
praise  the  Lord  that  some  have  been  saved  and  are  seek- 
ing to  know  more  of  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ. 

We  have  four  other  mission  stations  besides  this  central 
station.  One  is  Florida  Mission,  where  there  is  a  nice  num- 
ber of  baptized  members  and  we  believe  a  good  work  is 
being  done.  At  the  Goch  Station  the  Lord  has  given 
some  blessings  and  some  souls  have  been  added  to  the 
Church.  At  that  place  the  mine  has  given  us  permission 
to  apply  to  the  government  for  a  mission  site,  and  the 
native  brethren  have  already  contributed  a  nice  sum  of 
money  to  put  up  a  suitable  church  building.  Praise  the 
Lord!  At  the  consolidated  Langlaagte  there  is  a  good 
work  going  on;  a  number  have  been  saved  and  united  with 
the  Church.  We  have  had  some  blessed  seasons  at  this 
place  owned  of  God.  The  Bantjes  has  had  its  share  of 
tests,  but  we  praise  God  that  souls  have  also,  at  this  place, 
been  added  to  the  Church,  and  the  work  is  progressing. 

From  all  the  stations,  one  main  and  four  out-stations, 
fifty-seven  souls  have  been  baptized.  We  praise  God  for 


468  AFRICA 

all  these,  and  for  a  number  who  have  heard  God's  call  to 
them  to  give  themselves  to  Jesus  to  work  for  Him  and 
labor  for  the  salvation  of  their  own  people  through  Jesus' 
precious  blood.  Thank  God  there  is  power  in  the  blood  to 
save  any  and  all  who  will  come.  There  are  a  goodly  number 
who  are  soon  ready  for  baptism,  and  we  are  trying  to  do 
all  we  can  to  get  them  fully  established  in  the  deep  truth 
of  the  Bible,  a  full  and  complete  salvation,  pardon  cleans- 
ing, and  the  filling  of  the  Holy  Ghost.  Some  have  taken 
a  very  bold  stand  for  God,  and  are  now  preparing  them- 
selves for  the  Lord's  work.  Our  desire  and  prayer  is 
that  we  get  a  band  of  really  consecrated,  sanctified, 
Spirit-filled  ones,  who  are  willing  to  suffer  the  loss  of  all 
things  for  Jesus,  and  be  made  a  living  power  to  go  out 
among  their  own  people  and  help  win  them  for  Jesus. 

Dear  reader,  will  you  pray  with  us  for  all  these  who  are 
yet  without  the  True  Light,  that  they  will  soon  have  the 
privilege  of  hearing  the  glad  news  which  is  to  all  and  for 
all?  We  have  very  good  meetings  in  the  large  hospitals, 
where  are  many  afflicted  and  dying.  This  is  a  good  op- 
portunity to  give  them  the  Word  of  God. 

Isaac  and  Alice  Lehman. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jesse  Eyster  have  also  been  labor- 
ing in  Johannesburg  and  have  been  valiant  and  con- 
secrated messengers  of  the  Cross.  For  several  years 
they  had  charge  of  the  Training  School  for  Native 
Evangelists  near  Johannesburg,  in  connection  with 
the  Compound's  Mission  under  Mr.  A.  W.  Baker. 
They  have  always  been  members  of  the  Brethren's 
Church  and  several  years  ago  concluded  to  sever 
their  connection  with  the  other  mission  and  also  la- 
bor in  connection  with  our  Mission  Board.  They 
secured  a  good  opening  at  Boxburg,  and  with  much 
self-sacrificing  labor  built  house  and  church  and 
opened  an  encouraging  work.  Souls  were  saved  and 


MACHA  MISSION 


469 


470  AFRICA 

some  added  to  the  Church.  Then  the  labor  troubles 
in  Johannesburg  caused  the  mines  in  the  vicinity  to 
close  down  and  the  work  was  checked.  We  trust, 
however,  that  it  is  only  a  temporary  check  and  that 
the  work  may  move  on  under  the  blessing  of  God. 

Nothing  has  yet  been  written  about  the  last  sta- 
tion opened,  and  this  would  be  incomplete  without 
reference  being  made  to  it.  I  refer  to  the  one  at 
Mandamabge,  near  Selukwe,  Southern  Rhodesia. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Levi  Doner  had  been  stationed  for 
several  years  at  Mapani  Mission  and  had  done  most 
excellent  work  there  in  the  Master's  cause.  They, 
however,  thought  that  that  station  was  near  enough 
to  Matopo  and  Mtyabezi  Missions  and  it  could  be 
left  in  charge  of  the  native  teacher,  Nyamazana,  so 
that  they  might  be  free  to  open  another  work  in  new 
territory.  For  this  purpose  Brother  Doner,  accom- 
panied by  Brother  Frey,  made  an  extensive  tour 
among  the  natives,  and  he  finally  decided  to  locate 
at  the  above-named  place,  over  200  miles  by  wagon 
road  from  Matopo  Mission. 

In  the  latter  part  of  August,  1911,  Brother  and 
Sister  Doner,  together  with  Brother  Steckley  and 
Sister  Book,  started  for  this  place,  and  opened  a 
work  with  every  prospect  of  success.  There  were 
many  natives  surrounding  them,  who  at  once 
showed  an  interest  in  the  work.  They  were  there 
only  about  two  months,  however,  before  Brother 
Doner  became  sick  and  was  called  to  lay  down  his 
life  in  the  undertaking.  From  the  time  he  had  set 
foot  on  African  soil,  over  ten  years  before,  he  had 
entered  heart  and  soul  into  the  work  of  the  Lord 
and  had  labored  continually  with  the  exception  of 


MACHA   MISSION  471 

over  a  year's  furlough  in  America.  No  labor  was 
too  arduous,  no  distance  too  great,  no  hardship 
feared,  if  thereby  he  might  carry  the  Gospel  to  the 
people.  Many  long  journeys  he  made  by  foot,  by 
bicycle,  by  wagon,  in  exploring  the  country  and  in 
preaching  the  Gospel.  Perhaps  he  was  overzealous 
in  the  work  at  times,  and  if  he  had  spared  his 
strength  more  he  might  be  still  with  us.  Who 
knows?  He  gave  the  Gospel  to  many  natives  and 
helped  many  into  the  light.  He  certainly  laid  down 
his  life  in  behalf  of  the  Africans.  While  his  body 
rests  out  in  the  wilds,  far  from  other  white  people, 
we  believe  he  is  already  enjoying  some  of  the  fruit 
of  his  labors. 

Sister  Sallie  Doner,  his  wife,  was  obliged  at  that 
time  to  return  to  America  on  furlough.  On  account 
of  some  difficulty  arising  in  reference  to  the  loca- 
tion of  the  mission,  it  was  finally  decided  to  aban- 
don the  place.  Sister  Doner  and  Brother  Steckley 
are  now  ably  laboring  in  the  interests  of  the  work  at 
Macha,  and  Sister  Book  at  Mtyabezi. 

There  are  now  in  connection  with  the  African 
work  twenty-one  white  missionaries,  including  those 
who  are  home  on  furlough,  and  thirty  native  teach- 
ers and  evangelists.  There  have  been  over  300  na- 
tives baptized,  and  there  are  more  than  that  number 
in  the  Inquirers'  Classes.  As  the  various  out-schools 
are  just  being  properly  launched,  the  work  may  be 
expected  to  bear  fruitage  in  geometrical  ratio.  Take 
for  instance  last  year,  1913 ;  there  were  109  additions 
to  the  Church  at  the  various  missions.  These  fig- 
ures are  not  large,  and  they  indicate  only  a  small 
proportion  ^of  the  work  really  accomplished  by  the 


472  AFRICA 

missionaries.  As  Brother  Steigerwald  says :  "  Now 
that  the  leaven  has  been  put  into  the  meal  no  one 
can  stop  it  from  expanding."  Praise  God  for  that ! 

We  desire  to  express  our  appreciation  of  the  En- 
glish Government  in  aiding  mission  work  and  in 
making  it  possible  for  missionaries  to  labor  unmo- 
lested in  their  colonies ;  also  in  suppressing  many 
customs  harmful  to  the  natives,  and  which  hinder 
the  progress  of  the  work.  We  rejoice  also  to  know 
that  the  government,  as  well  as  the  better  class  of 
the  general  public,  as  they  become  more  familiar 
with  the  work  and  aims  of  the  missionary  are  real- 
izing the  benefit  to  the  country  and  are  showing 
their  appreciation  of  the  same. 

The  Church  has  come  up  nobly  to  the  help  of  the 
Lord's  work,  both  by  their  prayers  and  means,  so 
that  all  have  been  generously  supported  and  all  the 
stations  of  white  workers  have  good,  substantial 
brick  houses  and  churches,  and  the  workers  have 
been  well  cared  for.  May  the  Lord  abundantly  re- 
ward the  donors  and  the  Foreign  Mission  Board, 
who  have  given  the  work  their  undivided  support. 

We  rejoice  that  a  beginning  has  been  made,  but  it 
is  only  a  beginning.  Only  a  very  small  portion  of 
the  great  continent  of  Africa  is  covered  by  these 
pages,  and  that  only  imperfectly  covered.  The  Lord 
has  condescended  to  bless  the  work  ever  since  its 
inception.  It  has  never  gone  by  leaps  and  bounds, 
but  what  was  done  has  been  solid  and  we  hope  last- 
ing. We  rejoice  that  we  have  been  permitted  to  see 
natives  emerge  from  the  dense  darkness  of  heathen- 
dom— how  dark  that  is  none  but  those  who  have 
lived  among  them  can  realize — and  become  beacon 


MACHA   MISSION  473 

lights  in  their  neighborhood,  living  witnesses  of  the 
truth  that  the  Gospel  of  Christ  "  is  the  power  of 
God  unto  salvation  to  every  one  that  believeth,"  to 
the  pagan  African  as  well  as  to  the  enlightened  Eu- 
ropean or  American. 

Many  a  time  people  have  said  to  me,  "  The  peo- 
ple in  Africa  are  more  eager  to  become  Christians 
than  those  in  America,  are  they  not?  "  It  seems  to 
me  that  there  is  little  difference  in  the  people;  if 
there  is  any  difference  in  the  results  it  is  because  of 
the  difference  in  the  methods  employed.  The  mis- 
sionary, as  he  goes  to  his  field  of  labor,  is  after 
souls.  That  is  his  business;  it  is  not  a  side  issue 
It  is  his  business  and  he  makes  a  business  of  it  and 
uses  business  methods.  He  must  begin  at  the  bot- 
tom and  learn  to  know  his  people  and  enter  as  far  as 
he  is  able  into  their  surroundings  and  their  lives. 
He  makes  a  study  of  them.  He  knows  from  expe- 
rience that  the  salvation  of  these  precious  ones  has 
meant  much  travail  of  soul  and  deaths  oft.  He 
knows  that  some  one  has  "  filled  up  that  which  is 
behind  of  the  afflictions  of  Christ,"  in  behalf  of  this 
part  of  the  body  of  Christ.  He  knows  they  have 
been  followed  with  anxious,  solicitous  eyes  from  the 
very  first  when  they  were  infants  in  Christ,  puny 
perhaps,  and  his  heart  was  made  glad,  but  with  ex- 
ceeding trembling  lest  the  many  pitfalls  should  en- 
trap them  before  their  eyes  were  really  open  to  see 
or  understand  the  danger.  He  knows  some  one  has 
shed  many  bitter  tears  over  the  stumbling  of  some 
of  these  babies.  He  may  now  rejoice  to  see  some 
grown  to  manhood,  as  it  were,  in  Christ  and  being 
divinely  used  of  Him  in  saving  others. 


474 


AFRICA 


MACHA  MISSION  475' 

The  true  missionary  keeps  at  it.  It  is  his  central 
thought  day  after  day  as  he  teaches  these  dirty,  care- 
less ones  about  him  to  become  cleanly  and  do  their 
work  properly,  how  he  can  lead  them  on  to  desire 
a  clean  life  and  seek  for  it.  His  last  thought  and 
prayer  at  night,  as  he  lays  his  head  on  the  pillow,  is 
for  guidance  as  to  how  to  win  these  precious  souls; 
and  sometimes  he  is  led,  like  his  Master,  to  spend 
much  of  the  night  in  prayer. 

Some  people,  looking  on  from  a  distance,  think 
there  is  a  great  deal  of  romance  connected  with 
mission  work;  that  it  is  full  of  striking  incidents  and 
delightful  adventures,  and  that  it  is  a  grand  oppor- 
tunity to  see  something  of  the  world.  On  my  first 
furlough  home,  ten  years  ago,  a  little  niece  gave  a 
glowing  account  of  a  friend  of  her  mother,  and  of 
the  countries  that  friend  had  visited.  In  conclusion 
the  child  naively  added,  "  She  has  traveled  almost 
as  much  as  a  missionary."  This  child  unwittingly 
voiced  the  opinion  of. many  a  grownup;  for  to  some 
would-be  missionaries  the  prospect  of  foreign  travel 
occupies  a  large  space  in  their  field  of  vision,  but  to 
the  genuine  missionary  foreign  travel  is  but  inci- 
dental to  mission  life ;  it  is  the  bridge  over  which  he 
passes  to  some  obscure  corner  of  the  earth  where  he 
is  hid  away  from  the  world's  gaze  and  surrounded 
by  an  entirely  different  class  of  people,  of  strange 
language  and  uncouth  ways,  often  repulsive  to  the 
natural  eye  and  to  refined  tastes.  For  months  he 
may  never  see  a  white  face,  save  those  of  his  col- 
leagues. He  does  not  go  with  the  expectation  of 
finding  a  house  already  made  to  order  and  every- 
thing else  he  needs,  but  he  is  ready  to  go  into  the 


476  AFRICA 

wilds,  if  needs  be,  and  make  a  home  for  himself. 
He  does  not  go  just  because  he  is  willing  to  do  cer- 
tain things  in  the  mission  field ;  but  he  is  willing 
and  ready  to  do  whatever  he  finds  to  do,  and  to  go 
wherever  the  Lord  tells  him  to  go,  and  to  stay  as 
long  as  the  Lord  bids  him  stay. 

There  is,  however,  a  fascination  about  mission 
work,  as  every  one  who  is  in  the  field  will  testify. 
Furloughs  are  taken  because  it  is  an  absolute  neces- 
sity for  the  missionary  to  go  away  for  a  time  from 
the  unhealthy  climate  and  from  the  absorbing  la- 
bors which  sap  the  very  vitality.  But,  when  he  is  in 
his  native  land,  the  missionary  feels  that  he  is  out 
of  his  element.  He  is  out  of  touch  with  the  business 
and  interests  which  seem  to  engross  the  heart  and 
soul  of  every  one  about  him ;  and  he  is  homesick  to 
be  back  again  to  his  field  of  labor  and  to  see  those 
dear  dark  faces.  He  feels  that  there  is  only  one 
thing  worth  living  for,  and  that  is  to  lift  up  Christ 
among  the  heathen  so  that  He  may  draw  all  men 
unto  Himself.  He  feels  that  the  time  is  short  and 
that  the  "  King's  business  requires  haste,"  and  that 
our  Lord's  return  is  imminent. 

Again,  as  long  as  a  person  thinks  he  is  making  a 
great  sacrifice  in  leaving  home,  friends,  and  his  busi- 
ness, and  going  as  the  Lord's  messenger  among  the 
benighted  of  earth,  he  would  better  remain  at  home. 
If  he  is  really  God-called,  the  day  will  come  when 
he  will  realize  something  of  the  inestimable  privi- 
lege of  being  His  ambassador  to  nations  in  darkness 
without  any  knowledge  of  the  Light  of  Life.  All 
earthly  things  will  be  lost  sight  of  and  his  heart  will 
burn  within  him  to  lift  up  Christ  among  the  heathen. 


MACHA   MISSION  477 

He  will  gladly  go  through  anything,  that  the  blessed 
Gospel  may  be  proclaimed  to  the  ends  of  the  earth. 

Some  one  may  inquire,  "  What  should  I  .study  to 
prepare  me  for  the  mission  field?  "  A  careful  study 
of  these  pages  will,  we  think,  answer  that  question. 
But  to  sum  it  up  we  would  say,  anything,  everything 
you  can,  both  in  school  and  out;  one  never  knows 
until  he  reaches  the  field  what  he  may  meet  with. 
The  Bible,  of  course,  first,  last,  and  always,  and  all 
the  knowledge  with  it  one  can  acquire ;  then  too 
temporal  work  of  various  kinds,  medicine,  nursing, 
hygiene,  farming,  building,  teaching,  housekeeping, 
and  mission  methods.  If  one  has  acquired  a  fair 
knowledge  of  these  and  thinks  he  is  well  prepared, 
then  let  him  be  humble  enough  to  acknowledge  that 
he  knows  only  the  A  B  C's  of  mission  work;  and 
that  when  he  has  reached  his  field  of  labor,  the  Lord, 
and  perhaps  some  of  His  messengers  already  in  the 
field,  will  help  him  to  put  together  into  words  the 
letters  he  has  learned,  and  he  may  add  to  it  day  by 
day  as  the  occasion  may  require.  If  one  has  this 
humility  and  willingness  to  adapt  himself  to  the 
work,  after  reaching  the  field,  it  will  supply  much 
of  his  lack  of  knowledge  along  some  lines. 

My  object  in  writing  thus  plainly  is  not  to  fright- 
en any  one  of  God's  children  from  the  work  of  the 
Lord;  but  rather  to  help  each  one  carefully  to  count 
the  cost,  and  to  disabuse  anyone's  mind  of  false 
notions  of  mission  work.  Judging  from  the  sta- 
bility and  perseverance  of  those  already  connected 
with  the  work,  we  have  reasons  to  believe  that  all 
did  count  the  cost ;  but  the  work  is  only  begun,  and 


478  AFRICA 

we  trust  many  more  will  come  to  swell  the  ranks 
and  push  on  the  work  into  the  darker  regions. 

It  has  been  a  little  over  a  century  since  the  first 
missionaries  began  their  work  along  the  coast  of 
South  Africa;  but  it  is  only  within  the  last  half 
century  that  there  has  been  much  visible  fruit  of 
the  work  done.  Even  then  the  missionary  labors 
have  been  chiefly  along  the  coast  of  the  continent 
and  along  the  navigable  rivers  which  are  the  natural 
highways  into  the  interior.  Much  of  Central  Afri- 
ca is  still  unpossessed.  In  the  report  of  the  last 
Great  Missionary  Conference  it  was  estimated  that 
there  are  ninety  millions  of  the  population  of  Africa 
as  yet  untouched  by  the  Gospel.  Stupendous  fig- 
ures, indeed,  to  say  nothing  of  the  many  millions 
whose  knowledge  of  the  Gospel  is  as  yet  very  super- 
ficial ! 

We  have  already  mentioned  some  of  the  difficul- 
ties in  the  way  of  reaching  the  people ;  the  great  ex- 
panse of  country  to  be  traversed,  the  deadliness  of 
the  climate,  and  the  high  cost  of  living,  which  in 
Africa  exceeds  that  of  any  other  country.  Again, 
the  many  languages  and  dialects,  823  in  number,  to- 
gether with  the  illiteracy  of  the  people,  are  a  serious 
handicap ;  but  with  God  "  all  things  are  possible." 

The  present  generation  is  beholding  wonderful 
strides  in  opening  the  vast  continent  to  commerce 
and  civilization,  and  above  all  to  Christianity.  Rail- 
roads are  rapidly  being  built  all  over  the  country, 
uniting  the  interior  with  the  coast.  At  the  present 
rate  it  probably  will  be  a  matter  of  only  a  very  few 
years  until  Cape  Town  will  be  connected  to  Cairo 
by  steam  through  the  center  of  the  continent.  This 


MACHA   MISSION  479 

central  railway  is  soon  to  be  linked  with  Benguella, 
on  the  west  coast,  which  will  form  a  more  direct 
route  into  the  interior.  Twenty  years  ago  Rhodesia 
had  no  railroads ;  in  fact,  'it  can  scarcely  be  said 
there  was  a  Rhodesia ;  for  it  was  only  in  its  forma- 
tive period.  Now  it  has  1,466  miles  of  railway  owned 
and  operated  by  the  government,  with  an  additional 


Boxburg   Mission   Station.      Built   by   Mr.   Jesse   Eyster. 

204  miles  extending  to  the  seaport,  Beira,  on  the 
east  coast.  These  are  only  a  portion  of  what  has 
been  built  in  the  country.  North,  south,  east,  and 
west  other  lines  have  been  built. 

When  one  considers  the  vast  amount  of  labor  re- 
quired, and  the  ail-but  insurmountable  difficulties  to 
be  overcome  in  railroad  building  in  Africa,  the 
work  already  accomplished  is  little  less  than  miracu- 


480  AFRICA 

lous.  The  Lord  raised  up  men  of  large  hearts  as 
well  as  large  means,  to  finance  much  of  this.  All 
the  building  material  has  to  be  carried  long  dis- 
tances, and  many  of  the  lies  and  telegraph  poles  are 
of  iron  on  account  of  the  destructive  white  ants. 
The  traveler  can  now  take  the  train  at  Cape  Town 
and  travel  to  the  border  of  Congo  State,  a  distance 
by  rail  of  2,140  miles,  for  $75,  second  class.  He  can 
have  a  comfortable  compartment,  furnished  with  all 
modern  conveniences,  and  obtain  his  meals  on  the 
train  at  a  very  moderate  cost.  Freight  rates  are 
still  high  on  account  of  the  immense  distance  to  be 
traversed  and  the  small  amount  of  goods  required  to 
supply  Central  Africa. 

The  railroads  are  fast  changing  conditions,  help- 
ing to  solve  the  question  of  gaining  access  to  the 
people,  and  providing  good  homes  and  wholesome 
food  for  the  missionaries.  There  are,  however,  many 
millions  yet  outside  the  railroad  belt  who  are  in 
need  of  the  Gospel ;  but  even  these  can  be  reached 
with  much  less  difficulty  than  formerly. 

The  language  question  too  is  rapidly  being  solved, 
and  great  praise  is  due  the  noble  army  of  men  and 
women  who  have  labored  long  and  hard  to  reduce 
to  writing  the  seemingly  meaningless  jargon  which 
first  greets  their  ears  in  going  among  the  natives. 
Many  languages  have  been  reduced  to  writing  by 
the  missionaries,  and  the  Scriptures  have  been  trans- 
lated into  them.  Grammars,  dictionaries,  and  text- 
books of  various  kinds  have  been  written.  This 
work,  together  with  the  various  schools  and  the 
united  labors  of  the  missionaries,  is  aiding  in  reduc- 
ing the  number  of  languages.  There  are,  however, 


MACHA   MISSION  481 

many  tribes  which  are  yet  without  missionaries  and 
without  the  Gospel  in  their  language,  and  they  are 
waiting  for  some  one  to  say,  "  Here  am  I,  send  me." 
This  is  a  task  worthy  of  the  greatest  minds  of  the 
age ;  to  reduce  to  writing  an  African  language  and 
to  translate  into  it  the  Gospel  which  tells  of  GOD'S 
LOVE  THROUGH  JESUS  CHRIST,  to  those  downtrodden, 
hag-ridden,  demon-worshiping  souls. 

The  time  is  opportune  for  spreading  the  Gospel  in 
Africa ;  and  if  every  child  of  God  were  willing  to  do 
his  part  or  her  part  in  the  work,  the  present  genera- 
tion could  see  it  carried  to  all  tribes. 

None  of  the  difficulties  in  the  way  are  insurmount- 
able. When  the  "  Great  Commission  "  was  given  it 
was  backed  up  by  the  indisputable  assertion,  "  ALL 

POWER  IS  GIVEN  UNTO  ME  IN  HEAVEN  AND  IN  EARTH. 
GO  YE  THEREFORE,  .  .  .  LO,  I  AM  WITH  YOU  ALWAY, 
EVEN  UNTO  THE  END  OF  THE  WORLD.  AMEN." 


RN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITV 


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